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Go directly to the collection, Trails to Utah and the Pacific: Diaries and Letters, 1846-1869, in American Memory, or view a Summary of Resources related to the collection.

Trails West

Oil painting of sunset over the wagon trail
1942 Now The Day is Over

Before railroads, automobiles, and airplanes, distances of any great length were traveled in long and arduous voyages by ship and covered wagon. When the lands and minerals of the western territories beckoned in the 1840s and 50s, hundreds of thousands of pioneers emigrated from the United States by way of a few western wagon trails. These trails are illustrated in a Special Presentation of Interactive Maps, while trail life is reflected in the collection's diaries, letters, maps, and images.

Photograph of pioneers crossing the Platte River
Crossing the Platte River

Use the Trail Name Index to locate materials that describe travel along specific trails. For example, in his two-volume diary, William Henry Hart provides a detailed account of life on the California Trail, describing everything from learning to cook over a campfire to guarding cattle during a night watch. Hart gives several accounts of driving his wagon through rivers and ravines as well as the Black Hills:

"June 22d Rolled out early. Road very bad being all hills, steep and rocky, up mountains and down vales, over or around the rocky ridges, with many a sudden creek or steep pitch. I was driver and on one of the steepest rocky descents my lock chain became loosened and the wagon instantly commenced going down much faster than {begin inserted text}was{end inserted text} proper and threatened to crowd the team off the side {begin inserted text}of{end inserted text} the road into a deep ravine. In trying to catch the wheel with my hands I put my foot too near it and immediately my right great toe underwent a flattening process that was decidedly disagreeable. I was still striving to stop the wagon however when I was reinforced by Streeter + Reed who had not been far off and by the driver of the succeeding team By each catching a wheel we stopped the wagon and relocked it."

Hart, William Henry. Diaries, 1852-1888 (vol 1). June 1852, pages 88 - 89

Photograph of the California Trail
California Trail — The City of Rocks, p. 2

Ezekiel Headley also traveled the California trail, keeping a diary of short and factual entries. The nineteen year old makes repeated references to the many other travelers emigrating at that time, noting on May 22, 1849, "...Met 19 wagons of Fur traders they Told us there was About 2500 wagons Ahead of us." Headley also kept track of the number of graves he saw each day. In a series of typical entries, he wrote, "T[uesday] 11 Seen 3 graves. W[ednesday] 12 Seen 6 graves. T[hursday] 13 Crossed the big Nimakaw River, and seen 5 graves."

Many of the deaths along the trails were the result of cholera. Edward Jackson writes of an attack of cholera on a steamer taking pioneers up the Missouri River from St. Louis to Independence, one of the points of embarkation of wagon trains.

Illustration of St. Louis and the Mississippi River
St. Louis

"May 9 [1849]. The cholera is now raging fearfully here and report says this morning that the steamer Mary had thirty six deaths on board from cholera since she left St. Louis. We are very particular about cleanliness in the camp - all bathing every morning."

Jackson, Edward. Diary, 1849. May 1849, page 10

His diary entry for May 20 sounds the lament of many western travelers:

"One of our axle trees broke which detained us & compelled us to reverence the day [Sunday]. At this place are the graves of two emigrants who died the past week. O do not leave my bones here. If possible let them lay at home - if not, let it be California . The idea of the plains is horrible! I now see my journey in its true light and if I am permitted to record, the pages of my journal will tell a fearful tale."

Jackson, Edward. Diary, 1849. May 1849, page 17

Photograph of an unmarked grave
Forty Mile Desert Unmarked Emigrant Grave
Map of California and adjacent states
Johnson's California, with Utah, Nevada,
Colorado, New Mexico and Arizona

The trails west crossed territory occupied, and in many cases held sacred, by Native Americans. Refer to maps showing the location of Native-American tribes, such as a Map of Lewis & Clark's treck across the western portion of North America and Johnson's California, with Utah, Nevada, Colorado, New Mexico and Arizona. Use Subject Index headings beginning with Indian or search on Indian for other materials. Numerous diarists record encounters with Native Americans, including Kate Dunlap, who traveled from Iowa to Montana by horse team in 1864:

"After passing another range of bluffs worse than the first, we came to an In-dian village of about 40 'wigwams'. This village is sit- uated on one of the finest grazing plains we have seen since we have been on the road. A half a dozen or so of naked children fol- lowed after us crying for bread. I felt sorry for them but had none to give them. as I had given the last mor sel I had to some squaws and their papooses, whom we met among the Sandy bluffs - We stopped one and a half miles from their village to camp, as some the Ohio freighter had not yet got over the sand bluffs, but an old chief came to us and forbid us camping on their pas- ture, claiming that all this land belonged to the Soux , that God had given it to them, and we must move. After a long debate with him and among ourselves we concluded to go on."

Dunlap, Kate. Diary, 1864-1865. June 1864, pages 40 - 41

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Last updated 02/24/2005