CHAPTER I.

Journey to Liverpool—Lady and Child—Dine at Lancaster—Impostors at Manchester—Railway—Lateness of the season—Desecration of the Sabbath—Agricultural Details—Napoleon packet-ship—Cemetery—Mr Huskisson.

I left Mungoswells on the 20th of April, 1833, and proceeded from Haddington to Edinburgh by the Earl Grey stage-coach, drawn by a pair of thoroughbred bays, in charge of Quinten Campbell, a most excellent driver, who landed us at the end of the journey, a distance of seventeen miles, in less than an hour and a half, without an application of the whip.

After spending a few hours in Edinburgh, two friends, who intended accompanying me on a transatlantic tour, and myself, were seated in a Manchester coach, and we arrived at Carlisle about five in the morning of the following day.

During a few minutes' delay which occurred in changing coaches at Carlisle, a waiter at the inn asked us to partake of breakfast; and resented our declining to do so, by saucily refusing to exchange small silver-money for a half-crown piece. My friend and I here agreed to take an outside place alternately, to accommodate a lady and child with an inside one. In course of the day I learned from the lady that she was booked as a passenger from Dumfries to London, and had, to her regret, been detained a whole day at Carlisle. It was A 0014 2 evident that this unprotected female and her innocent charge had been imposed upon, and her escape from a second day's detention was entirely owing to the little concession of my friend and self in her favour.

Breakfast was served at Penrith, and the party complained loudly of the fare placed before them. The stage passengers were joined by other travellers at Lancaster, where eighteen in number dined together, carving for themselves, and several partaking of hot punch, in the space of twenty minutes, which was the whole delay at Lancaster.

We reached Manchester a little after nightfall, where we spent the evening; and one of my friends not having sufficient change to settle with the guard and driver of the coach, he soon afterwards paid them in the coffeeroom. Next morning two different individuals presented themselves, as deputed by guard and driver to receive their allowance. My friend good-humouredly rallied the impostors on the hopelessness of their attempt, and they seemed to feel the force of his satire more than they perhaps would have done a scolding. I have noticed the treatment of the lady and child at Carlisle, as well as the impostors at Manchester, in consequence of a lecture from a fellow-passenger on Yankee knavery, and a well-meant advice to guard myself against American duplicity. Without meaning to impeach the character of my fellow-countrymen, I may remark that the natives of Britain need not illustrate moral delinquency by examples from other countries. Mankind seem to be, nationally as individually, sensible of the faults of others, although, at the same time, they are blind to their own.

We travelled from Manchester to Liverpool by the railway, on the morning of the 22d, and accomplished a distance of thirty miles in an hour and a half. Several miles were performed in two minutes, according to my stop-watch. At the request of a friend, I occupied a place on the outside of a way coach, and was much annoyed by the current of air and coke from the engine. My eyes did not recover the effects of the coke for forty-eight hours afterwards.

On the east coast of Scotland the season had proved to be one of the wettest and latest on record. At the time of our departure 0015 3 the vegetable kingdom had scarcely responded to the vivifying influence of spring—the buds of the hawthorn and the larch were expanding only in sheltered places. England did not present a more advanced vegetation. We were fortunate, however, in obtaining the first good weather of the season for our journey; and, notwithstanding the bleakness of nature, the ever varying scene afforded many objects fitted for contemplation. We crossed the line separating England from Scotland early on Sunday morning, and for many miles afterwards the roads were covered with herds of cattle and flocks of sheep, travelling towards the south. This was a novel sight to a Scotsman; such practices on Sabbath being prohibited by the laws of his country. The desecration of the Lord's day may, perhaps, to a certain extent, be traced in the customs of every Christian country, but in no case whatever ought appearances to be regarded as the measure of religious feeling, the seat of which is hid from human eye. Without assigning to my countrymen purity and intensity of religious emotion, I may be permitted to say, a Scottish Sabbath is marked throughout by a still, quiet, external decorum, seldom met with in other parts of the world, which fosters piety, and checks an open display of profanity. I trust her inhabitants will ever respect and preserve its solemnity of character.

The land from Carlisle to Manchester seemed, generally, poor and indifferently cultivated. The enclosures are small in size, often surrounded by irregular fences, formed and maintained at a sacrifice of soil and labour. Many of the grass fields were studded with lean young horses and cattle, industriously seeking a repast which nature still sparingly supplied. Betwixt Manchester and Liverpool, much of the grass lands had been ploughed with a furrow slice, only two and three inches in depth. Three stout horses yoked in line, the first of which was led by a boy, were seen dragging a small harrow, kept on a narrow convex ridge, by means of a man with a rope operating like a rudder, and he was apparently the only severely worked animal engaged in the operation. The agriculturists of Britain being deemed enlightened, and her soil not producing a sufficient quantity of food for the population, 0016 4 it was painful to witness land so mismanaged and labour so misapplied. This anomaly may, perhaps, be accounted for, by the genius of the inhabitants of this district having long been successfully applied to manufactures; and neither soil nor climate being congenial to agriculture; together with entails, tythes, and corn laws, checking the devotion of skill and capital to cultivation. Chatmoss, through which the railway passes, seems, however, an exception, and I regretted time did not permit an examination of the interesting management it is under, with which I had become acquainted by means of periodicals devoted to rural affairs.

On reaching Liverpool, our first proceeding was to search for a conveyance to New York, which we obtained in the Napoleon packet-ship; the commander, Captain Smith, resigning his cabin to my friend and me, the other berths in the ship having been previously engaged, with exception of one which was required for our companion.

Part of the 22d, 23d, and 24th, was spent in viewing the attractions of Liverpool, the chief of which, in my estimation, is the cemetery. This repository of mouldering humanity has been recently formed, and its numerous beauties have not been matured or mellowed by time. Trees, shrubs, and flowers, were diminutive, and generally in their winter garb, which fully displayed the memorials to the gaze of visitants. The cenotaph to Mr Huskisson stands near the centre, and can seldom fail of fixing for a time the attention, and exciting the sympathies of his countrymen. The world is now enjoying the green fruits of his genius, with prospect of increasing and lasting supply, while the laurels of contemporary warriors are barren and fading. So long as the principles of free trade are cherished and acted on, the memory of Huskisson will endure.

CHAPTER II.

Voyage from Liverpool to New York—Sea-sickness—Crew—Passengers—Details—Approach to New York—Washington Hotel.

1833

At noon, on the 24th April, the Napoleon got under weigh, and was towed down the Mersey by a steamer, in consequence of an adverse wind. In little more than an hour from the time of sailing, I became sea-sick, which afflicted me severely for nearly thirty days, and frustrated the little plans of recreation and amusement which I had formed on shore. Although appearing only once or twice at table, the attention of friends, and the situation of my berth, enabled me to know much that was passing on board. I shall not, however, chronicle many events which took place during the voyage, which some of my shipmates will readily pardon.

The establishment of the Napoleon consisted of about thirty, embracing men of every country and of every clime. There were eighty passengers in the steerage, and thirty in the cabin, eight of whom were ladies. England and Scotland furnished each five gentlemen, cabin passengers; Ireland, two; and the United States of America, three, one of whom had been naturalized from Ireland. All the individuals from England and Ireland, one from Scotland, and two from America, smoked. In some cases, the use of tobacco was immoderate, one gentleman smoking a hundred and fifty segars in fourteen days; the saliva in many parts of the vessel was copious and disgusting. Some of the passengers seemed to spend much of their time in sensual gratification, there being little reading or card-playing indulged in. Breakfast was served at eight o'clock, luncheon at twelve, dinner at four, and tea at eight. The first dinner course occupied about an hour, the second fifteen minutes, and dessert about the same length of time. The cabin, in some respects, resembled a British inn, the 0018 6 passengers dressing as they chose, and at all times calling for what they wished, champagne, seemingly, being the only wine restricted, and which was presented at dinner twice a-week. To those not of fastidious taste, the Napoleon offered a fit opportunity for indulgence, the table being copiously stored with substantial food and a variety of liquids. The noise of calling the steward, and drawing of corks, succeeded each other at short intervals throughout the day, and generally formed my morning and evening salutations. The quantity of good things which some individuals stowed under their belts, appeared excessive. Man is apt to despise what he cannot enjoy, and sensual indulgence never appeared to me so unworthy of regard. Champagne, sparkling in the wine-cup, did not afford a thousandth part of the pleasure I had often derived from the dewdrops glancing in the morning sunbeam, and when presented to my fevered lips by a most friendly hand, I envied my pretty Ayrshire cow, Salina, the privilege of quaffing the cool and limpid fount at Mungoswells.

On 20th May, 40° 30′ north latitude, 53° west longitude, and 950 miles from New York, Mrs—, a cabin passenger, gave birth to a female child. In compliment to the ship, this little nymph of the sea was to be christened Josephine! a name memorable for conjugal affection, and the poor return such a virtue will sometimes receive.

Our commander, Captain Smith, was an American by birth, and part owner of the vessel. He was indefatigable as a seaman, spending successive nights on deck, and seldom concluding a meal without satisfying himself, by occular demonstration, that all was right aloft. To the passengers he was attentive; and, considering the situation in which they occasionally placed him, also forbearing. Individually, I found him courteous and gentlemanly in a high degree.

The wind continued adverse for the first twenty-five days; and sometimes blew tempestuously. The weather moderated for the last eight days of the voyage, and the bar at New York was made on the morning of the 29th May, which a dense fog prevented us crossing without a pilot. The vessel stood off and on during the day, and towards noon, six gentlemen, accompanied by the letter-bag, set out in a 0019 7 fishing-boat for New York, where they landed in safety a few hours afterwards. The fog increasing as the day advanced, deprived the passengers of the hope of reaching shore until next day, and all their stock of patience was required to withstand the disappointment.

Next morning I was early on deck. The fog of the preceding day had disappeared in course of the night, and the sun shone brilliant in a sky of cloudless blue. A bracing and favourable breeze filled our canvass, and hastened on their voyage a thousand vessels around us, which had been detained by the previous unfavourable weather. Land was seen on both sides of the channel, but too distant to render objects on its surface distinctly visible. At a quarter before eight, a pilot stept on board, under whose guidance the Napoleon proceeded merrily on her way.

Under the combination of advantages we now enjoyed, our detention on the previous day seemed a fortunate occurrence, without which we should have been landed at New York, insensible of the beauties of its approach.

Having been nurtured in the country, and by profession and taste brought into fellowship with the vegetable kingdom, I anticipated much pleasure on my first introduction to America. This feeling led me on deck early in the morning, and, with telescope in hand, I watched with anxiety our approach to the shore. My situation was like that of a famishing person with food in view, intense desire without gratification, and brought to feel enjoyment by gradual participation. At first the country appeared a mass of uniform vegetation; by and by, the green broke into different shades, forest could be distinguished from cultivated field, kinds of trees and crops became visible, but I strained my eyeballs almost to blindness without being able to mark the minute characteristics of individuals. The general effect imparted delight, which was heightened, perhaps, by my having left home at the termination of a tedious winter, and crossed a wide waste of waters; the green mantle of nature never appeared to me so rich and fascinating.

The general aspect of the scenery, on approaching New York, is beautiful; consisting of hill, wood, water, island, town, villa, and hamlet, in every combination which can impart 0020 8 pleasure. But blue mountains, so prominent in the landscapes of Scotland, and so dear to her children, are altogether wanting, and the eye searches in vain for an object of sublimity.

An inspecting surgeon came on board at the quarantine station, who examined the passengers and crew. On coming to anchor in the river, near the wharf, a custom-house officer sealed up the luggage in the berths, and the cabin passengers were landed by means of a steam-boat.

On reaching shore, we learned there was a scarcity of lodgings at this season of the year, when the inhabitants of the Southern States travel northwards in quest of health. Our charioteer, after two unsuccessful attempts to find accommodation, landed us at the Washington Hotel, kept by Mr Ward, who kindly supplied us with every thing we could desire.

CHAPTER III.

Theatre—Trollopes—Mrs Trollope's Work—Custom-house Officer—Race-course—Westhouses Breeding Stud—Thunder-storm—Return to the Hotel—Excursion to Long Island—New town—Flushing—Agriculture in the neighbourhood of New York.

Miss Fanny Kemble taking her benefit on the night of our arrival, it was determined that we should visit the Park theatre. We found the house well attended, the ladies greatly outnumbering the gentlemen in the boxes, while the pit contained males only, apparently belonging to what is known in England by the operative classes, amongst whom people of colour were seen. Having peeped into Mrs Trollope's work on the Domestic Manners of the Americans, and its illustrations of those witnessed at the Cincinnati theatre recurring to memory, I watched the behaviour of the audience.

At the end of the second act, I observed a gentleman in the second tier of boxes in an indelicate posture in front of the box. Three were similarly situated, at the end of the third act, when several voices in the pit called out, “A Trollope, a Trollope,” and a general hissing and hooting from the same quarter had the effect of inducing the offenders speedily to withdraw.

This incident at the theatre, amusing in itself, afforded me pleasure, by exhibiting the operatives in the pit enforcing chaste manners on those considering themselves higher in the scale of humanity; and proving that Mrs Trollope's remarks had not been altogether lost on the Americans.

The clever, and to some people, amusing work of Mrs Trollope, will have different effects from what its admirers in Britain contemplate. The many sketches of low and incidental character which the book contains, and given as belonging to the people generally, wounded the feelings of the inhabitants 0022 10 of the United States; and by drawing attention to bad practices, led to the improvement of the people reviled. From much I saw and heard, the keen satire of this authoress is likely to produce, in a few years, the usual improvement of a century. On the other hand, her caricatures of manners and institutions fostered the prejudices of many of the inhabitants of Britain, and engendered dislike to political changes taking place in that country, more likely to be accelerated than retarded by intemperate opposition. When indelicacy flows from the pen of a female, though veiled by effusions of poetic fancy and garnished by wit, it is highly dangerous to youthful innocence, and the popularity of Mrs Trollope's work may be regarded as evidence of want of discernment, if not of vitiated religious and moral feeling, in a portion of the reading population of Britain.

The piece of the evening was “The Wonder,” in which Miss Kemble did not appear to advantage. Having formerly seen her at Edinburgh in the play of the “Hunchback,” the contrast on the present occasion was painful. Whether my disappointment arose from the difference of character she represented, or a change of feeling on my part, cannot be determined, but I left the house long before the conclusion of the piece, for want of interest.

Next morning we applied at the customhouse for our luggage, and, on paying a trifle, obtained a permit for its inspection. The officer on board performed his duty in the most gentlemanlike manner; and in less than five minutes from the time of going on board, our luggage, under charge of a porter, was on the way to the Washington hotel.

The New York races take place on the Union Course, Long Island, twelve miles distant from the city, and this being the last day of them, we were anxious to embrace what we conceived so good an opportunity of seeing the different ranks of society. Accordingly, we crossed the river at Brooklyn ferry, and engaged a light four-wheeled waggon drawn by one horse. The individuals proceeding to the course in vehicles, and none were observed on foot, seemed under a racing mania, and rattled along the road expeditiously, many of the horses trotting in admirable style. On approaching the 0023 11 course, our horse and waggon were put into a court, and we proceeded on foot.

The Union Course is private property, and completely shut against the public by a fence of strong upright posts, or stakes, enclosing a considerable space of more ground than is occupied by the course. For a considerable distance on each side of the winning post, the exterior fence consists of strong boards impervious to vision, on the top of which are stands capable of containing many thousand people. The interior margin of the raceway is fenced by a low open paling, except opposite the winning-post, where high upright stakes are substituted. A portion of ground including part of the raceway is thus enclosed for the accommodation of the horses, and those more immediately interested in them, by the stands on one, and close upright stakes on three sides, with large gates crossing the raceway, which are kept open during the time of running. A quarter dollar was exacted on passing the outer barrier of the course, on entering which, we found the first race concluded. Inheriting a smack of the jockey, my first object was to obtain a view of the horses; and on applying for admission into the enclosure where they were walking, I learned a ticket was the only passport; but preparations for starting commenced, and the first two-mile heat was run, according to my watch, in three minutes and fifty-seven seconds. My anxiety for a sight of the horses increasing, I applied to a gentleman, seemingly of importance in the racing circle, to be allowed to approach them, and was informed that on paying three dollars, 12s. 9d. sterling, I would obtain a ticket of admission into the enclosure. The terms on which I could come near the horses appearing extravagant, I contented myself with peeping through the stakes at a distance. It would be unfair to attempt a minute description of the animals, under the circumstances in which I was placed, but they seemed not quite so strong as English race-horses, though more sprightly and graceful in the mode of carrying their heads and tails.

There are few finer sights in England than a well-attended race-course in good weather. All ranks, from the king to the beggar, male and female, assemble in their best equipages 0024 12 and gayest attire. Splendour and beauty seem to regard the occasion granted for display; and the more immediate actors in the scene harmonize with the general pageant, a well-trained horse and his rider being a perfect model of chaste neatness. All is, however, different at New York. In the interior of the race-course, there were a limited number of people, few equipages, and a total want of finery or display of any kind. The stands were crowded, but amongst the assembled multitude I could not have numbered more than thirty females who, from their appearance, had no pretensions to the epithet of lady. The jockeys were of all hues, generally coloured boys, whose black faces appeared very grotesque under their bright-coloured, ill-fitting dresses. One jockey, of small size and tender years, was clothed in shabby leather trowsers, which had formed knee-breeches to their original possessor; and a second had his spindle-shanks in old boots of the largest dimensions, with strings below his knees to prevent his trowsers and boots parting company. Bridles and saddles were covered with mould and rust, and in one instance a pair of stirrup-irons were warped with rope, to fit them for a little tawny foot. On coming up to start for the second heat, the horses displayed much impatience, being, generally, led by one, and sometimes two men on foot, as motley and grotesque in appearance as the riders. Two false starts were made; and at the time of finally getting away, one horse had his tail in the direction of the others' heads. The jockeys rode all in the same style, their toes being placed near to the nose of the horse, and their heads inclining back above the tail. The second heat was run in three minutes and fifty-five seconds, after which I withdrew, disappointed at what I had witnessed.

On reaching a foreign land for the first time, a person is apt to judge every thing he sees by the standard of his own country, until the home-rust, which more or less accumulates on every one, is rubbed off, and a consequent expansion of mind takes place. At first it appeared to me illiberal to exclude the poor from seeing a race, and sordid to exact money from the rich who witnessed it, particularly in a reputed free country like the United States of America. On reflection, however, I could not see any impropriety in 0025 13 making those who enjoy the amusement of horse racing pay for it, more especially when the government does not squander public treasure on such an object, and where the course is private property. I could not ascertain if the course is lucrative, but the funds arising from the following sources, which are extracted from a race bill, must be considerable.

Members and their (immediate) families, to pass free.

For every two-horse four-wheel carriage, with not more than four passengers, $1.00

For every four-horse carriage, 2.00

For every passenger over four, each .25

For every gig or other two-wheeled carriage, with one passenger, .50

For every passenger over one, each .25

For every person on horseback, .50

For every person on foot, .25

Public Stand, .50

• No person but a Member, or a resident of another State, invited by a Member to purchase a Ticket, can have access to the Members' Stand. Any non-resident of New York, so invited, by paying three dollars, may procure a Ticket, for the week, of admission to the Members' Stand.

The Pavilion will be set apart for Ladies, Members of the Club, and such Gentlemen only as have Tickets to the Members' Stand.

*** An efficient Police is provided to preserve order, and see that the Rules are strictly adhered to and enforced.

The next day we were accidently carried to the farm of Westhouses, where we saw an extensive breeding stud of thoroughbred horses, amongst which was a sister to Eclipse, the most celebrated horse in the States, and Henry, next in fame to Eclipse. The gentlemen of the turf consider their horses superior to those of England, equal distances being run in less time; but the style of running is, however, different, the weights of America being lighter, and the horses pushed from the starting-post.

We experienced a most severe thunderstorm while at tea, but the young ladies of the party did not seem to concern themselves about the war of elements, the most vivid lightnings flashing without remark. We travelled a few miles after the storm abated, and daylight had disappeared. The calls of toads and catydids were deafening, and innumerable fire-flies illuminated the face of nature, and lighted our way. The wetness of the evening induced us to remain for the night at the house of a friend, instead of returning to New 0026 14 York. Next morning I was awoke from a sound sleep by a loud knocking at my bedroom window, and on answering the call, my disturber asked the hour. After looking at my watch, I answered, twenty minutes past three o'clock, and added, he had surely made a mistake in coming to me. He sharply answered, in a disagreeable nasal twang, “I have slept too long, that is all the mistake, I guess.” In a few minutes afterwards, all hands, including several of the family, were engaged in milking cows; and the produce of about twenty was despatched for New York before five o'clock, under charge of the person who awoke me, and I learned that he had contracted for the milk during the season. We breakfasted at six o'clock, and were immediately afterwards drawn to the city by a pair of handsome chestnut geldings, at the rate of eight miles an hour, and which would have graced any barouche in Britain. Our vehicle was the common four-wheeled waggon of the country, with two deals across for temporary seats, and it was to return loaded with seed-potatoes. We drove smack up to the Washington Hotel, one of the most fashionable houses in the most celebrated street in New York; and in course of our progress I was amused at the uneasiness of my friend, one of the best and plainest of men, at being carried to our residence in such a mean-looking carriage. During his short residence in the States, he had not learned to shake off that aristocratic feeling which so generally pervades human nature, and has produced much misery in the world.

After changing our linens, we set out in a gig for Long Island, proceeding by way of Flushing, and returning by the beautiful village of Jamaica. Long Island has been termed the garden of the States—a name which it may well merit from its numerous orchards, but certainly not from the fertility of the soil, or the management which it is under. The land is generally of light texture, requiring constant supplies of manure, and a considerable part of it is sand of the poorest quality. The enclosures were small, the fences bad, and every description of crop inferior. Parts of the surface were covered with thriftless brushwood, and there were numerous pools of water which might have been easily drained. Many of the houses were composed of brick, others of wood, resembling 0027 15 the country-seats or villas of England. As a protection from the sun's rays, windows were generally provided with green Venetian blinds opening on the outside. Grave-yards, or private burying places, were innumerable, and like the flower plots and gardens, kept in an untidy manner.

On passing the village of Newtown, celebrated as the place where the delicious apple bearing its name was first discovered, we drove into a shed, a convenience attached to every country place of entertainment in the eastern United States, and after giving orders for the tending of our horse, applied at the bar of a respectable-looking hotel, if we could have dinner. A thin vixen-looking woman peeped from behind a door, and whispered something to the landlord, who immediately told us, in a civil tone of voice, he could not comply with the request, as they were engaged in cleaning the house. There was no alternative but to proceed, and on reaching a good-looking hotel at Flushing, about one o'clock, we learned that the dinner hour was at two, but no objection was made to accommodate us immediately. Table was prepared by a pretty young woman, called, in this part of the world, a hired girl; and in less than a quarter of an hour from the time of our arrival, dinner was set before us. The same person, whom I consider entitled to the name of lady, being neat in dress, easy and polite in manners, waited during dinner in a standing position. She conversed freely and sensibly on different subjects, without forwardness or levity of conduct, and apologized for part of our fare not being so nice as it would have been, had time been allowed for preparation. On paying the bill, a gratuity was not proffered for her services, nor did she seem to expect it. The hostler, however, made a demand, and told us he did not receive wages from the master of the house, but depended entirely on travellers for remuneration.

The nurseries of Messrs Prince, the most extensive in America, are situated at Flushing, and were visited by us. The grounds, compared with such places in Britain, and some others which I saw in America, seemed badly kept, being full of perennial root-weeds of the most troublesome description, as well as those of annual growth.

Agriculture being little known as a science in any part of America, and but imperfectly understood as an art, the same 0028 16 diversity of opinion, and mode of management, prevail as in Britain, with greater difficulty of becoming acquainted with them. The following particulars relate to the neighbourhood of New York.

Grass crops are mown for hay five or six years in succession, without being top-dressed or manured in any way—the aftermath, which is seldom abundant, being depastured. Five pounds of red clover, and half a peck of timothy seeds ( Phileum pratense ), are sown on an acre; and also, occasionally, small quantities of herd-grass and redtop, two kinds of poea. I believe the red clover lives longer than it commonly does in the cultivated fields of Britain, having seen many plants after five successive crops of hay. The grass, on being ploughed, is followed in the first year by Indian corn without manure, by potatoes with manure in the second year, and, if early, they are followed with buck-wheat; barley is taken in the third year, and in the fourth, oats accompanied with grass-seeds. Potatoes are grown in drills as in Britain, and sometimes in hills three or four feet distant, formed by the surface being marked into squares by the plough. A whole potato, or three cuttings, are placed above the manure, and both covered over with earth by the spade. Disease in the potato was said to be unknown. The fruit crop is often injured by spring frosts, and wheat by mildew. Swede turnip is sown in August, and stored before winter. Geese are plucked three times a-year—live goose feathers being a general article of commerce.

Farm labourers, or helps, get from ten to twelve dollars a-month, with bed and board, including washing, and a deduction is made for sickness or voluntary absence. A married man is allowed from ninety-five to one hundred and twenty dollars a-year, instead of board; and pays from twenty to twenty-five dollars for house and garden rent. The hours of labour are from sunrise to sundown, without a specified time for meals, to which they are commonly summoned by sound of horn. Hired men do not consider themselves bound for any length of time, and occasionally absent themselves for a day or two without giving notice of their intention. Hired spademen get seventy-five cents, or three-quarters of a dollar per day, without board, all the year round.

CHAPTER IV.

Journey from New York to Philadelphia—Steam-boat—Railway Coach—Militia Muster—American and British Soldiers—Characters of Travellers—Mansion-house Hotel—Funeral—Excursion to Holmsburg—Hotel-keepers in America and Ireland—Mr W * *—Sir John Sinclair of America—Fair Mount—Naval Yard—Philadelphia—Return to New York—Face of the Country—Agricultural Details.

We left New York in a steam-boat, a little after six o'clock in the morning, and reached South Amboy, on Rariton bay, a distance of twenty-eight miles, at half-past eight. From Amboy we travelled on a railway to Bordentown, distant thirty-four miles, in carriages drawn by two horses, which were changed three times in four hours, and thence down the Delaware river, by steam, to Philadelphia, Where we arrived at three o'clock.

The passengers breakfasted and dined on board the steam-boat, paying half a dollar (2s. 1½d.) for each meal; no difference in charge or accommodation being made, and smoking in the cabin or after-part of the vessel was prohibited. There is a bar on board, at which liquors, segars, maps, &c. &c., may be obtained. American steam-boats have been compared to flourishing hotels, a term not sufficiently comprehensive, as they contain barbers, commodities of different kinds for sale, and often horses and carriages. They are floating cities.

Soon after leaving New York, the passengers were warned by bell to purchase breakfast tickets, and some time afterwards to identify their luggage, when all belonging to those proceeding to Philadelphia was placed in a large crate, which was lifted from the steamer to a carriage, and again to a steamer, by means of cranes, without its contents being moved. The railway carriages rest on four wheels—are divided into three compartments, B 0030 18 each containing six persons, many of whom are provided with tickets for their respective places before leaving the vessel. The horses were placed in sheds, ready harnessed, at the different changing places, for greater expedition in attaching them to the carriages. Every arrangement in this line of travelling is excellent.

In passing along the railway, the train of carriages stopped for a few minutes, which afforded us an opportunity of seeing a militia muster, which some writers have humorously described. The dresses of the men consisted of all hues and shapes, there were hats with and without feathers, and some garnished with roses. The guns consisted of single and double barrels, with not a few rifles amongst them. Many of the corps were seen approaching the muster ground on horseback, and others in light waggons drawn by beautiful horses. The soldiers were, generally, small, thin, miserable-looking creatures, and such as would not often have been enlisted in the British army. A young gentleman, lately arrived from England, and a fellow-passenger in the Napoleon and railway coach, was quizzing the mean appearance of the militiamen, when a blithe, jolly-looking fellow from Baltimore good-humouredly remarked, that such men as these beat off the English at New Orleans; and some conversation on the relative merits of American and British soldiers took place; the citizen of Baltimore was drawn into the question.

Whether American or British soldiers are the best, will, I trust, long remain undecided by actual trial. There is, however, no doubt, that the British are apparently more muscular than the Americans, and I imagine also more capable of enduring fatigue and privations. But large men do not load muskets faster than those of smaller dimensions, while they are more easily hit by a bullet. My ingenious friend W—, residing in the neighbourhood of Philadelphia, is of opinion, that the best fed army will always prove conquerors, and attributes the success of the American army and navy, last war, to the circumstance of the Americans having been better fed than the British. The influence of food in imparting strength and courage to animals is well known, and, under a parity of circumstances, the best fed army will prove victorious. But my 0031 19 friend's argument, to be of weight, requires the British to have been under-fed, a circumstance not likely to have occurred; but in American warfare, when men are often armed with rifles and masked by trees, strength and courage are not brought into play. While the Americans fight in their own country, in defence of wives, families, and property, notwithstanding their liberty and equality notions, and want of discipline, they will always prove an overmatch for hireling soldiers of any nation. But place them in a foreign land, amidst pestilence and privation, with no incentives to exertion but a miserable pittance called pay and frivolous glory, I doubt if they would display deeds of greatness and valour as Britons have often done.

We had not been long seated in the railway coach, when the Englishman became the butt of some Americans, who crammed him with such absurdities, that he must have returned home, which he shortly intended doing, with very erroneous ideas of the States; and the quickness with which his character was discovered by the Americans did credit to their discrimination. The tenor of a foreigner's conversation with the natives on his first arrival is an index to his understanding, and the information he receives is often made to accord with his capacity and feelings instead of truth. Without sound judgment to discriminate and appreciate information, the gleanings and impressions of a traveller must be as apt to mislead as instruct others, and his lucubrations will often be found more illustrative of his own character than of the people and country he visits. We took up our residence at the Mansion-house hotel, Philadelphia, kept by Mr Head; but it did not seem to warrant the praises bestowed on it by some travellers, meal hours not being regularly kept; and the bed of my friend was preoccupied by a set of mischievous natives, which fortunately in no instance paid their respects to me.

While walking after tea, a funeral passed by, which was the first I had seen on American soil. A hearse moved slowly along the side of the street, accompanied by about thirty men walking two and two on the pavement, dressed in coloured clothes, without crape on hat or arm; then followed six or seven females, each supported by a gentleman, and both sexes were dressed in black garments, and seemed to be near relations of 0032 20 the deceased; then came forty or fifty men and women in pairs, partly in black and partly in coloured clothes, which closed the procession. I afterwards observed a funeral train at New York, composed entirely of men, chiefly in coloured clothes, arranged in pairs. The custom of attending funerals in coloured clothes is said to be of recent introduction; and as grief springs from the heart, and cannot be expressed by hue of garment, this innovation on old custom is creditable as well as advantageous to the people.

Wishing to visit a gentleman residing fourteen miles from Philadelphia, to whom I had letters of introduction, the proprietor of the hotel demanded five dollars, 21s. 3d., sterling, for a carriage to convey us to the place and back again by midday. The charge appearing unreasonable, I made application at several quarters, and at last engaged an Irishman on the street, who undertook the journey for three dollars, and he fulfilled his engagement to our perfect satisfaction.

Next morning, we left Philadelphia at an early hour, and on reaching Holmsburg, were refused breakfast at an unpretending hotel, without a reason being assigned. On applying, however, at another hotel on the opposite side of the street, we were more fortunate, and had every thing set before us which could appease hunger or gratify the palate. The refusal of breakfast reminded me of being in Ireland in 1830; on which occasion I was accompanied by a friend. We travelled from Drogheda to Kells, in the county of Meath, in a common car of the country, exposed to a burning sun, and choking dust. On reaching that lovely village, and alighting at an inn, we were told the Marquis of—was momently expected, on which account we could not be accommodated, and at a second inn experienced the same disagreeable reception. I exerted the little eloquence with which Nature has endowed me to obtain a single room, and after despairing of success, I petitioned for a stall in the stable. The heart of mine hostess was so far overcome as to provide tea, and allow us to wash in a dirty miserable-looking room. I here despatched a card to a landed proprietor in the neighbourhood by an errand-boy of the house. This circumstance changed 0033 21 the state of affairs all of a sudden; but I withdrew to the house of my friend in the country. The great man did not make his appearance that evening; yet the mere expectation of his arrival deprived us of food and shelter. What a miserable state of society!

The tavern-keepers of Ireland, and those of Newton and Holmsburg, seem to have been actuated by very different motives. Both were culpably unaccommodating; but those of America, probably, acted from saucy independence—those of Ireland, from greedy and needy dependence. Paddy wished to fawn on the rich man, and enjoy the crumbs which fell from his establishment; while Jonathan indulged his own humour, and disregarded crumbs of every kind.

Just as we approached Mr W—'s, rain began to fall, and prevented our examination of his farm, which I much regretted. Our stay, however, was prolonged till after dinner, having been fascinated by the sentiments of his powerful and original mind. Besides acquiring much useful information regarding the United States generally, I learned the advantages of introductory letters, which I too lightly esteemed, from the circumstance of having, when a young man, travelled over a considerable portion of England without such credentials, and obtained access to whatever interested me, by stating, either verbally or in writing, the object of my visit. Mrs W—asked me if I had a friend named Flanagan, and on being answered in the negative, added, that a person, passing by that name, introduced himself to her husband as my bosom friend, and in consequence received considerable attention for seven or eight months, at the end of which he decamped, without paying his debts. On reflection, I recollected having received and answered two letters from a person of that name in the north of Ireland, which formed the extent of our intercourse. Introductory letters have become so common of late years, that in many quarters they are treated with neglect. They are perhaps unnecessary to liberal-minded men, and only useful to guard against imposition.

Returning to Philadelphia in the afternoon, I delivered an introductory letter to an eminent individual, who had been described to me as the Sir John Sinclair of America, which 0034 22 appellation I found he well merited. A dirty-looking girl opened the door of a house in one of the principal streets, and desired me to occupy a seat in the passage until—came down stairs. The passage was about five feet wide by forty in length, and so dark that objects were not distinctly visible in the lightest part of it; and in this hole, on a plain wooden chair, I sat for upwards of a quarter of an hour before the gentleman made his appearance. During this interval of suspense, I debated with myself the indignity offered me according to British notions, and whether I ought to leave my dungeon in disgust; but on reflection I resolved to submit to any thing, short of insult and imposition, that might come in the way, whilst amongst the Americans, for the double purpose of seeing character and ensuring personal comfort—knowing how disagreeable it would be to act at variance with the manners and customs of a nation, and vain to expect to bring the population to my way of thinking on such matters. The gentleman at last made his appearance, and conducted me to a room, without saying a single word about the delay he had occasioned, or the situation in which I had been placed; and from his manners being easy and polite, I was led to conjecture that sitting in the dark lobby was a common occurrence with his visitors. My reception was flattering, his offers of service extensive, and conversation, which was chiefly agricultural, more fluent than profound.

Rain continued to fall in torrents during the night and next day, which prevented us visiting the celebrated botanic gardens belonging to Colonel Ker, to whom we had letters. With the aid of a street coach, we, however, reached Fair Mount, where public works which supply the city with water are situated. The machinery is propelled by water from the river, part of which is raised to an elevated reservoir, from which the city receives a copious supply for every purpose. The reservoir is surrounded by a pale fence, enclosing well-kept walks, accessible by flights of steps. The beauty of the spot and surrounding scenery deserve a visit from every person of taste, even although they disregard the machinery of the works.

From Fair Mount we drove to the Naval Yard, which we 0035 23 reached just as the workmen were leaving it to dine, during which time visitors are excluded. The sentinel on duty enquired if we were foreigners, and on learning that we were, conveyed information to his superior in command, but on his return informed us we could not be admitted. While we lamented being too late to see the Naval Yard, the justness of our exclusion was fully admitted.

Philadelphia contains about 170,000 inhabitants, is the second place in population and the fourth in shipping within the United States, and forms the depôt to a county yearly increasing in population, wealth, and extent. It is situated on the west bank of the Delaware river, which is navigated by vessels of the largest size. Many of the streets are shaded with trees, and all of them remarkably clean and well paved, running parallel and at right angles to each other. The houses are generally built of red brick, those of some of the principal streets having the basement, steps, door, and window sides of white marble. The doors are in general painted white, and have silver handles and knockers. Houses of this description have a chaste and pleasing appearance. Many of the public buildings are elegant, and composed of white marble. The city is generally considered regular, to a fault—the inhabitants the most wealthy, fashionable, and polished in America.

The weather continuing wet, we left Philadelphia for New York at three o'clock in the afternoon, passing the night at Perth Amboy, where we paid a charge of threepence sterling for cleaning boots, and reached New York next morning. The railway from Amboy to Bordentown passes chiefly through Middlesex county, state of New Jersey. The soil is absolutely drift sand, and, according to my present notions of farming, unworthy of cultivation. The crops consisted chiefly of rye and Indian corn, and were uniformly bad. Clovers and timothy grass are seldom sown. In several instances lime and gypsum had been applied where Indian corn was growing, having been carried to the field in waggons, and spread thinly over the surface. In one instance farmyard manure was being applied in imperfectly formed drills, which I supposed were destined to receive potatoes. Women were seen hoeing Indian corn in the fields, but I could not discover whether they 0036 24 were white or coloured. The cattle grazing on the scanty herbage appeared mere starvelings, and smaller than some of the Highland cattle of Scotland. The sheep were even more miserable-looking than the cattle, and many of them retained their winter fleece. Pigs corresponded with the sheep and cattle; the horse alone forming an exception to the general wretchedness, some noble animals of this species being met with. Many orchards, consisting chiefly of peach-trees, the fruit of which is distilled into brandy, had been lately formed, and seemed the only thriving thing on the surface of the earth. The men seen at the militia muster, already noticed, are inhabitants of this district, and appeared to partake of its character.

When passing along the railway, I was much struck with the beauty of a plant, bearing a profusion of pink-coloured flowers, which the rapidity of motion prevented me seeing distinctly; and on asking its name, one passenger guessed it to be lauristinus and another hawthorn, but which I soon discovered to be rhododendron. This plant grows in great profusion along the road, and more especially around the seat of Joseph Bonaparte, near Bordentown.

The country around Philadelphia through which we passed, forms a striking contrast to that of New Jersey; its general aspect resembling, in all respects, the finest parts of the south of England. Many of the fences consist of well-kept thorn-hedges, studded with wide spreading trees; and many of the crops were excellent, although the soil is not generally in a high state of cultivation. The trees were covered with massy rich foliage, superior to any thing I had ever witnessed before—the effects of which were heightened by the season of the year and prevailing weather, which was warm and moist. Here and there a few pollard trees were seen raising their thin tops and branchless trunks amidst the glorious exuberance of nature; and when viewed in the landscape with the weeping willow, queen of American vegetation, the tendrils of which, clothed with shining leaves, hang in graceful festoons thirty feet in length, show how destitute of beauty are the works of man when compared with those of nature.

Men assisting at farm-work, in the neighbourhood of Philadelphia, get from ten to twelve dollars, with maintenance, 0037 25 per month, and they are not easily obtained to attend regularly at work. Young men and women of the industrious classes in the country dress in fashionable clothes of the finest fabrics before marriage, after which, the wife becomes a lady, and generally engages a hired girl or help. Thrashing machines are common, but not good; and when the flail is used, barley and oats cost three cents, rye seven cents, and wheat twelve and a half cents per bushel, when found,—that is, food provided for the workmen. From the high price of human labour, compared with the price of food, Indian corn is often trod out by oxen. Craddlers generally mow round the field when the crop admits of doing so; and stop only when the scythe requires to be sharped. Hay costs in cutting from one to one and a half dollar per acre. Mr W—pointed out a field of rye which was a good crop, and which he had a few days before let to be craddled at seventy-five cents per acre, without board or any other etcetera. The craddler not being permitted to sit at table with the family, and disliking to eat in the kitchen, had agreed to board with one of Mr W—'s labourers for forty-five cents per day, and would be thus fed, viz. breakfast at seven o'clock, on wheat-bread, rye-bread, fish, cheese, butter, and coffee; luncheon at ten o'clock, on cold meat, pickled pork, cheese, butter, pickles, bread, and coffee; dine at twelve, on every thing that is good and substantial; at five is served coffee, with bread, butter, fruit, and fruit-pie. Occasionally supper is taken at seven, but this meal is considered superfluous. Mr W—thinks Americans perform a great deal more work than Englishmen, which he attributes to their being better fed. At the conclusion of my transatlantic tour, my opinion is, the inhabitants of America do not work near so much as those of Britain throughout the week or year, although they may, perhaps, do more in a day. The strength and expertness of workmen seems a favourite idea—those of every district which I have visited being accounted by the inhabitants the best in the world. But the climate of England being better fitted for exertion than that of America, and the apparent health and strength of Englishmen superior, I can discover no reason why they should do less work than the Americans. Men and animals may be considered machines 0038 26 capable of manufacturing or yielding labour according as they are fed, provided their powers be not weakened by excess, or other circumstances affecting health. The half-starved, potato-fed Irishman could no more keep pace during a day's work with the meat-eating American, than the grass-fed steed with one trained on corn and hay. It is shortsighted policy in a master to pinch his labourer of food, when he reaps the fruits of his exertions.

In the neighbourhood of Philadelphia, land of fine quality and in high condition, may be had from 100 to 120 dollars per acre. Produce of all descriptions is high, and the straw of a wheat crop has been sold at thirty dollars per acre. Wheat is often mildewed. I saw several fields of a newly introduced grass, called Andes grass, said to have been lately brought from the range of hills in South America bearing that name. On examining the plant in the fields, and the seed in the shops, I think it is identical with the small-bulbed oat-like grass ( Holcus avenceus of Sinclair) indigenous to Britain, and which I afterwards observed growing in a state of nature in different parts of New York State. Much has been said and written in exaggeration of Mr W—'s system of farming; and he seemed highly amused when told of their nature. He grows excellent Swede turnip after his wheat crop, and this is the only succession of crops he gets in one year. His system is to plough in green vegetable matter, such as clover aftermath, French beans, and Indian corn, for manure to other crops. Horses and cattle are soiled with green food in summer, farming operations appeared to be well executed, and every thing connected with the establishment was in good order. Mr W. takes charge of agricultural pupils for 300 dollars a-year; and, from my visit to this gentleman, I think him eminently qualified for imparting knowledge to them. Young boys are often apprenticed to farmers for four years, with a stipulation of getting a quarter's schooling each year of their apprenticeship.

CHAPTER V.

New York—Damask hair-cloth manufactory—Dr H—, President Jackson, and Black Hawk—Hyde Park—Residences in America and Britain—Taste for Flowers—Cattle and Sheep—Scenery of the Hudson and Clyde—Fast Eating—Albany—Coach Passengers—Women working in Fields.

Several days were spent in viewing the beauties of New York and its neighbourhood, which the works of recent travellers render unnecessary for me to describe at length. This city is the first city in the Union, both as to shipping and population, which does not perhaps fall much short of two hundred and forty thousand. It is situated on an island separated from the mainland by a small creek passing betwixt the north and east rivers, which some individuals failed in converting into a canal. From the site of New York as an emporium of trade, there seem to be no limits to the extension of the city and its suburbs. It is already the chief outlet of much of the produce of the eastern parts of the New England states, part of Pennsylvania and Ohio, and almost the whole of New York State. When the canals and railways now in progress are completed, it will also become the depôt for part of the produce of the states of Indiana, Illinois, and the unsurveyed country to the west of Lake Michigan, traversed by the rivers Mississippi and Missouri; and, in the course of events, Upper Canada may be added to the list. The mouth of the Mississippi seems the only outlet, calculated by the extent of inland navigation, to vie with New York; but the warm and pestilential nature of the climate unfits it for the reception of produce, and the residence of man. The public and private buildings vary in size and elegance; and the inhabitants are justly proud of Waverley and Lafayette Places, the houses of the latter being decorated with immense 0040 28 Corinthian pillars, and the whole fronts and steps consist of marble. The streets are not so clean as the inhabitants wish strangers to believe; but as swine seem, in part, intrusted with the charge of removing the filth, they are in as good order as might be expected. The streets appear to be thronged at all hours, noise and uproar prevailing when I retired for the night; ladies and gentlemen on horseback, and the industrious on foot, were bustling forth at five in the morning when I arose. Emblems of aristocratic pride and shameless mendicity occasionally met the eye, in the red vests and peculiar cut coats of serving men standing at the back of luxurious carriages, and in the extended hat supplicating charity. Like other large commercial and manufacturing towns, activity characterises the inhabitants by day, dissipation by night.

At Johnston and Green's manufactory I saw a newly invented fabric of great beauty—damask hair-cloth, consisting of different patterns, the raised figures being sometimes of silk and sometimes of linen. A patent has been obtained for making this stuff, both in the States and in England. It forms a beautiful covering for sofas and chairs, and is said to be durable. I paid one dollar for the linen, and two for the silk damask, per yard, in small quantities. About two hundred people are employed at the manufactory, and, at the time I saw them, they all appeared happy, healthy, and clean. Young women, when weaving by the piece, earned three dollars (13s. 8d.) per week; small boys, six and seven years of age, one dollar; the hours of labour being from six in the morning to seven at night, with intervals of half an hour for breakfast, and an hour for dinner.

Having forwarded an introductory letter to Dr H—, who, on my arrival at New York, was at his country-seat, I had intimation of his return to town a week afterwards. On calling upon the Doctor at his friend's house in—Street, I was ushered into the drawingroom by a tawdry-looking girl, without announcing my name. My reception was all I could have wished; and on learning my intended movements, he expressed regret at not being able to be at—by the day mentioned, and expecting General 0041 29 Jackson, the President, to visit—in course of his tour, already commenced, proposed that I should wait and form one of the party. There is no ruler of any portion of the earth I would so soon associate with as a President of the United States of America, chosen by a free and enlightened people, to administer their laws; but the task which I had imposed upon myself did not warrant delay in an indulgence of feeling,—forming part of the President's tail, being unconnected with the objects of my excursion. I had no reason to regret this act of self-denial, the conduct of the people and President during the tour being such as I could not admire.

General Jackson having resolved to visit the chief towns in the northern parts of the Union, he got as far as Boston, when he was compelled by fatigue to return to Washington. In every town his deportment and reception seemed an imitation of the rules of despotic countries—a spectacle to the crowd, and an object of extravagant devotion. An Indian chief, named Black Hawk, who had been taken prisoner the preceding year, in a war to the west of Lake Michigan, and who was carried through some of the great towns, with a view of impressing him with the power of the States, preparatory to his liberation, arrived at New York the day after the President, and divided public attention. The ladies declared in favour of Black Hawk, some of them actually kissing him, which, it is said, affected the old President's health. The chief of the white men, and the chief of the red, were alike objects of curiosity; the President holding a levee by day, the Hawk by night, in Niblo's gardens. Had a mammoth or elephant appeared, the mighty ones of the earth would have been eclipsed in public favour,

We left New York early in the morning, by the Albany steam-boat, for Hyde Park, after viewing which we returned to the landing-place on the river Hudson, and, at half-past twelve at night, stept on board of a steam-boat which landed us at Albany a little after seven next morning. I got on deck at four, when passing the town of Hudson; the wind was blowing high from the north, and piercingly cold.

Hyde Park, the seat of Doctor Hosack, is the most celebrated 0042 30 in America, and which Mr Stuart describes as being “embellished as a fine residence and fine grounds in England.” The house is situated some hundreds of feet above the level of, and at a considerable distance from the Hudson, the intervening grounds being finely undulating. In front of the house there is a road, leading from the landing-place on the river, along a small stream, over which there is an elegant wooden bridge, and several artificial cascades have been formed in its channel. The house is composed of wood, as well as the offices and lodges, painted white, and are very neat of their kind. The conservatory had been dismantled a few days before our arrival, by placing the plants in the open air; the collection seemed extensive and well kept. The flower garden is small, the walks limited, and both destitute of beauty. I am aware that most of the evergreens which impart loveliness to the residences in Britain cannot withstand the rigours of an American winter, but this circumstance is no excuse for the nakedness of Hyde Park walks, the aid of many native plants having been disregarded. The matchless beauties of the situation have not only been frequently neglected, but destroyed by stiff, formal, naked walks, and the erection of temples resembling meat-safes, without a climbing plant, which the country produces in endless variety, to hide their deformity, and harmonize them with the surrounding scene. In short, while I greatly admired the situation of Hyde Park, I do not recollect having seen a celebrated place where nature had done so much, and man so little, to render beautiful. The embellishments at Hyde Park, contrasted with those met with every day in Britain, place American landscape-gardening immeasurably behind, if it can be said to exist.

The progress of a people in refinement and taste, manifested in a combination of nature and art, is commonly the work of time, and the decoration of grounds an unproductive investment of capital. Thus the residences of England having descended for ages in the same line, without the power of possessors changing their destination, may be said to represent the accumulated savings, labours, and tastes of many generations. 0043 31 In America the country has not been long possessed by the present owners, and property does not necessarily descend in the same line; and if to these causes be added the high price of labour, and the scarcity of capital, the state of the residences will be sufficiently accounted for. Dr Hosack has great merit in what he has accomplished, but it is mockery to compare his grounds, in point of embellishments, with the fine places in Britain, which have originated from circumstances which America is not likely soon to experience.

Throughout the whole of my transatlantic tour, the inhabitants of the country manifested perfect indifference to the beauties of nature. It was rarely I could learn the name of a plant, with the exception of trees. Nurserymen, seedsmen, and farmers were, generally, unacquainted with varieties, and with exception of two or three individuals, no one seemed interested in the matter. Rhododendrons grow as plentifully in many parts of the Eastern States as furze in Britain, yet I saw vast numbers of this plant shipping at Liverpool for Philadelphia, although millions of the same variety could have been obtained for the trouble of lifting, at no great distance from the city. Gardens and nurseries were overrun with weeds, and did not display beauty either in decoration or arrangement.

Hyde Park is also celebrated for its agriculture, which I found under the charge of a gentleman from Fifeshire, Scotland, a person on excellent terms with himself. The farm offices, which are extensive, would be considered good in most situations, and were the best I saw in America. There was a young hawthorn hedge, well kept, and in a thriving state. The cattle consist of imported short-horns, or their descendants, and one or two of the best cows were tolerable specimens of that breed. The sheep were said to be a mixture of the Leicester and Cotswold breeds; the pure blood of the former not having been found to answer. The flock was miserably low in condition, and the ewes were followed by large, though not fat-looking, lambs.

However well the short-horned breed of cattle, and improved Leicester sheep, may have been found to answer in some parts of Britain, it is doubtful if the farmers of the State 0044 32 of New York will benefit themselves by introducing them. The one is remarkable for lack of dairy produce, and the other for inferior quality of mutton; and both for being unprofitable, unless liberally supplied at all seasons with nutritious food. The population of the country cannot well dispense with any part of their present dairy produce, and do not require an increase of quantity at a sacrifice of quality of mutton, while the present state of agriculture does not furnish a sufficiency of food for the health and growth of short-horns and Leicesters during winter. I imagine smaller and more hardy breeds, of both kinds of stock, will be found more profitable for general purposes.

During my residence at New York, I attended the cattle market, which was stored with moderately fatted cattle, many of which had been worked. I also witnessed a herd of two hundred passing along the streets, said to have come from the state of Kentucky, forming part of four thousand which had been bought by one company, and brought forward in weekly supplies. They bore some resemblance to the Hereford cattle of England—were four and five years old, of excellent quality, and were estimated to average eighty stones dead weight, of 14 lbs. to the stone.

The scenery of the Hudson did not realize my expectations on first view, an occurrence which frequently takes place when much has previously been heard in praise of objects. Every person of observation must have remarked how different scenery appears under a change of circumstances. The weather being cold and raw during the passage, affected, perhaps, my feelings; and it was not until the objects had been seen a second time in the beginning of November, that I became sensible of their beauties. The Palisadoes, a line of rocks extending for twenty miles on the west side of the river on leaving New York, are of moderate height, with their base covered with stunted trees, and convey nothing of the sublime to the beholder. The objects became more interesting on approaching the high lands where Anthony's nose is situated, and forms the most prominent and beautiful feature. The channel of the river seems to have been produced by a mighty convulsion; the banks being destitute of soil, and the islands 0045 33 masses of pure rock, which strikingly display the economy and beauty of nature—the islands, without a particle of soil or blade of grass, being thickly studded with healthy, though small trees, while the perpendicular rocks on the banks, from the water's edge to many hundred feet in height, were adorned with blossomed kalmias.

The margins of the river Hudson, and islands in its course, assume a different character on approaching Albany; the islands being depositions of mud, susceptible of cultivation, and the banks rich soil, bearing good crops, and adorned with pretty houses.

The tide flows up the Hudson to Albany, distant from New York 144 miles, admitting vessels of considerable burden, and sloops of small size penetrate much farther up the river. The waters of the Hudson, passing through a rich and populous country, forming the outlet of the Erie Canal, present a never-ending scene of pleasing industry. At all times innumerable sailing vessels, with extended cotton canvass, whitened by a bright sun, and pure air, float gracefully to and fro. Steam-boats, crowded with passengers, pass with rapidity, while cock-boats, loaded with fish, poultry, and fruit, rest in quietness. Sloops carrying well-formed hay and straw stacks, glide towards New York, while steam-boats tow canal barges and vessels of every description, up and down the river. The surrounding country is also full of interest, abounding in thriving villages and towns, each forming a depot to the country in their rear; besides villas, academies, hotels, prisons, and forts without number, associated with the history, literature, and improvement of the country. To a citizen of the States, the Hudson is the most interesting, beautiful, and important river in America, and no foreigner of taste can be insensible to its charms.

The scenery of the river Clyde, in my native country, is of a different character. In vegetable decoration, the banks of the Clyde are greatly inferior to those of the Hudson, as well as in soft and picturesque beauty, although some sweet landscapes, such as the bay of Rothesay, are found on the former. But the Hudson is altogether wanting in the rugged blue mountains, so conspicuous from the Clyde, which are the C 0046 34 most noble and awe-inspiring objects of nature. I know not whether it is taste or prejudice which makes me prefer the scenery of the Clyde to the Hudson.

On reaching Albany, the bustle and confusion on board the steam-boat, with passengers landing, and porters scrambling for the luggage, was excessive; and there was some difficulty in preserving unauthorized hands from carrying away our effects. We reached the Columbian hotel rather late for breakfast; after which we walked about the town. Things appeared very different from what New York presented: carts, waggons, and carriages, as well as the animals harnessed to them, were greatly inferior. The population did not appear so active, and the eye looked in vain for those ladies whose fashionable attire, interesting countenances, and elegance of feet and ankles, delight the beholder. Our dinner party consisted of upwards of sixty. One gentleman dined in five minutes, reckoned by my stop-watch; the ladies rose from the table at the end of twelve; dinner and dessert occupied about fifteen minutes. The affair seemed an eating race, and my companions not being aware of the rapidity of the pace, were sadly behind. I was amused at a little jockeyship displayed in the contest. An individual, as soon as he seated himself at table, emptied a dish of green pease on his plate, to the evident disappointment of a gentleman on his right hand, and when a fresh supply appeared, he performed the like feat a second time, although part of the first seizure was unconsumed. Few of the party drank wine during dinner, and very little of the brandy which stood on the table, for the use of the company, was used. At tea, a gentleman removed from table in four minutes, but the party generally sat as long as at dinner.

Albany is the capital of the state of New York, containing about twenty thousand inhabitants, and has lately been made a port of entry. From being situated near the outlet of the Erie Canal, which is the channel of commerce with the country to the west and north, and on the line of railway now in progress, which will soon connect Boston with Lake Erie, it is almost certain to rise into importance. It is at present a place of considerable trade, being the seventh or eighth in the union.

0047 35

Betwixt dinner and tea I took an opportunity of delivering a letter of introduction to a gentleman residing a little to the north of Albany, availing myself of a railway coach proceeding to Schenectady. I chose part of an outside place behind, sufficient to accommodate five individuals of ordinary size, and which was occupied by two beings, half-men, half-boys, sitting cross-legged, and who, by their position and expression of countenance, seemed resolved not to admit a third person. After waiting for some time without speaking a word, I made preparations for taking a place between them and at last their legs were only withdrawn to escape the weight of my body. I notice this circumstance, trivial in itself, as being the only instance where rudeness, or want of an accommodating spirit was manifested by travellers in the course of my American tour. The gentleman I called on being from home, I returned by the fields to Albany. On my way I saw a grey coloured fox, which appeared larger, and not so active as the red fox of Britain. I observed several women engaged in the fields in weeding, cutting, and planting potatoes, and none of them seemed in poverty, or tinged with black blood. Mr. Stuart, in his “Three Years' Residence in America,” says, women are not allowed to work in the fields, without saying whether the prohibition arises from custom or by law. Women are actively employed in different occupations when their services are wanted, which does not, however, often occur.

CHAPTER VI.

Journey from Albany to Boston—New Lebanon—Pittsfield—Road Repairing—The Features of the Country—Rhododendrons—Northampton—Mr Stuart's Description of Northampton—Stage Passengers—Mode of Courtship—Villages—Agricultural Notices.

My companions and I having left Scotland without fixing on a route by which we were to proceed, I consented to visit the New England States, in order that I might claim their company through the Western States, to which they expressed an aversion. Accordingly we left Albany at two o'clock in the morning, by a stage which carried the mail-bag, crossing the Hudson in a horse ferry-boat, and reaching Nassau, by five, where we breakfasted on indifferent fare. Shortly afterwards we passed New Lebanon, finely situated in a lovely valley, surrounded by picturesque hills, a great part of which belongs to the religious sect denominated Shakers, whose principal establishment is here, and whose garden seeds are justly esteemed throughout North America. New Lebanon is celebrated for mineral waters, chiefly used for bathing; and the hotels afford ample accommodation for visitors. Nine miles beyond New Lebanon is the village of Pittsfield, a clean and beautiful village, reposing in a charming valley. The houses form a spacious square, in the centre of which is a tall aged elm, seemingly a remnant of unsubdued nature. There are several churches and hotels. Here the members of the Berkshire Agricultural Society, the oldest in America, hold their meetings, the first show of which took place in 1807, and consisted of two Merino sheep. We dined at Peru, a miserable country hotel, where bad fare was washed down by worse tea, the first time such a beverage had been presented to us during dinner, and is presented only in inferior 0049 37 hotels. We reached Northampton about six in the evening, having travelled seventy-seven miles in sixteen hours.

This day's travelling afforded opportunities of seeing the American system of road-mending, or more correctly speaking, road-destroying. A plough, drawn by four, and occasionally six oxen, with two drivers, one man holding by the stilts, and another standing on the beam, is passed along the margins of the road, turning every fifty yards. The loosened earth is then moved to the centre of the road, by men with shovels, or by a levelling-box drawn by oxen, the stones, great and small, being first carefully removed from amongst the earth, and in many instances more were thrown aside than sufficient to Macadamize the road.

The country from Albany, has not an agricultural feature worthy of notice, the soil being chiefly poor sand, interspersed with rocks and innumerable stones. The crops were truly miserable, and the pastures thinly clothed with sheep and cattle, which were invariably lean. Some beautiful cows were seen at Northampton, apparently descended from the North Devon breed of England.

The road in several places was so hilly that the stage passengers walked on foot, which afforded an opportunity of examining much that was interesting. This was one of the happiest days of my life, almost every moving and stationary thing on the earth's surface being new to me, and the weather fitted for displaying them to the best advantage. Strawberries of different kinds were gathered, tasted, and their seeds preserved. Shrubs and flowers were culled and compared. Insects and birds seemed to vie with each other in displaying brilliant colours; squirrels and woodpeckers of every hue were sporting around the trunks of aged trees, and the snakes were basking in the glorious sunbeams. Nature seemed in jubilee.

The forests through which the road led were strewed with decayed and decaying trees of former ages, and at the same time exhibited living specimens of each variety in every stage of growth, from the seedling budding into existence, to the aged pine, bearing the white and flowing tresses of Spanish 0050 38 moss, so emblematical of hoary and declining man. The flowers of rhododendrons and kalmias were unexpanded on the highest ridges, and opening into beauty in the valleys below, illustrative of the effect of elevation on climate. These plants were growing in all situations, on rocks, deep rich soil, beneath trees, and on exposed banks of rivers. The kalmias with bright red flowers, and white and pink blossomed varieties of rhododendron, were mingled in pleasing groups.

Near Northampton some snow-white rhododendrons, twelve feet in height, rich in blossoms and foliage, were shading cows browsing on the banks of the river, where decaying trunks of pine-trees stood in picturesque combination, like ruins of an ancient castle. After partaking of tea at an excellent hotel, we walked forth to survey the village, which is reckoned the most beautiful in New England. Northampton is extremely irregular, branching into roads leading in all directions. The houses are composed of wood painted white, with green Venetian blinds. The congregational church is a handsome structure, of the same hue and materials as the houses, and cannot fail to attract the notice of strangers, being one of the best specimens of wood and paint that the United States afford. The ranges of houses are enveloped in trees, amongst which are many magnificent elms, members perhaps of the original forest, reducing modern vegetation to insignificance, and affording umbrageous shelter to the inhabitants. The village stands in the rich valley of the Connecticut, and is surrounded by hills rising nearly 1000 feet in height, wooded to the summit, the chief of which is Mount Holyoke.

My impressions of this village, which must be attractive at all times, were perhaps heightened by the circumstances under which it was viewed. A delightful day's travelling had terminated at a comfortable hotel. The air was luxuriously balmy, and a cloudless sun, on the eve of setting, imparted a rich mellow tint to the face of nature, with which every person of observation, leading a country life, must be familiar, and have experienced how decorative it is to vegetation, and soothingly gratifying to human feelings. The houses, decked in white and green colours, which harmonize in rural scenery, 0051 39 and are associated with purity and shade, so desirable during an American summer, were in keeping with the landscape. In seeking for a comparison to Northampton, memory suggested the village of Dirleton, near to my native place in Scotland. But Dirleton, although associated with some of my best cherished recollections, and containing a picturesque ruin shrouded in ivy, and adorned with shrubbery of unrivalled sweetness, yielded to Northampton in situation, buildings, and vegetable beauty.

Having carried Mr Stuart's work, “Three Years' Residence in America,” with us, as a kind of guide-book, for which it is recommended in the author's preface, we experienced considerable disappointment at being unable to corroborate his description of Northampton. Instead of finding that “much of the pavement and steps are of white marble,” we could only observe a small portion which consisted of red brick. I shall not, however, take upon me to say there is no white marble pavement or steps in the village, but three of us walked about for an hour and a half without discovering a single stone of white marble; we did not, of course, approach villas remotely situated from the public roads, with a view of gratifying our curiosity, but every street, lane, and walk which promised gratification, were explored. His allusions to the vegetable beauties are also unhappy, when he says, “if a traveller in Britain were to stumble on such a place as this, he would not fail to enquire whose great estate was in the neighbourhood, and attribute the decorations of shrubs, flowers, &c., which adorn even the smallest habitations here, to the taste of a wealthy neighbour, or his being obliged to make them to promote electioneering views.” In the streets of Northampton, we numbered three or four bushes of lilac and white pipe, and a few roses, as the amount of shrubs adorning the foreground of houses, and flowers of small size were equally rare. The spaces were generally unmown grass, and in several instances luxuriant thistles and docks excluded light from the apartments. At the back part of the hotel in which we lodged, there was a garden, surrounded with a low ugly wooden fence, and crowded with the gaudiest of flowers, but our general impression was, that the gardens are ill kept, void 0052 40 of beauty, and unworthy of the place. I would require no better illustration of the small progress the inhabitants of the United States have made in gardening than Northampton, where man hath long resided, and done so little to improve the exquisite beauties of nature.

We left Northampton at three o'clock next morning, and passed the bridge and Valley of Connecticut before daybreak, breakfasting at Balchertown, and passing through Ware and Brookfield to Worcester, where we dined, and reached Boston Tremont hotel in the evening.

The stage passengers, in course of the day, were intelligent, communicative, and agreeable companions, polite during meals, and frequently asking others to partake of the dishes they distributed. A gentleman asked me if the old mode of courting in Scotland was still practised—when, after the consent of the lady's parents had been obtained, she was mounted on horseback, and her suitor placed in a similar situation, and if he could not overtake the fair one, it was considered a refusal. I laughed heartily, and assured him it was the first time I had heard of such a custom existing in my country, which, in all probability, never existed there, and could not now, as most of the youth of both sexes were denied the luxury of riding, by a heavy tax on saddle-horses. He rejoined, with an air of astonishment—“What! horses taxed! Does any thing escape government? Would a man having a nose longer than his companion's be taxed for it?” I answered, “if he filled it with snuff—a practice very common amongst my countrymen—he would be taxed.”

The villages through which we passed presented the same characters—white wooden houses with green Venetian blinds, and every thing wearing the appearance of cleanliness, order, and comfort.

The use of wood for fuel, the machinery of the manufacturing villages—and all of them may be termed such—being propelled by water, and the absence of coal smoke, contribute, in no small degree, to the external cleanliness of the houses and garments of the inhabitants. Manufacturing establishments were conspicuous in every direction, and innumerable bundles of rye straw were bleaching around the cottages 0053 41 —the manufacturing of straw hats to an immense extent being carried on in this district.

We passed the workmen employed at the Boston and Worcester railway, at present in progress, and which, it is said, will ultimately be extended to Albany. Agriculture furnishes little of interest, the soil is poor, and the crops partaking of its character—rye being the prevailing crop. Small patches of Indian corn were observed, nearly destroyed by frost; and the pastures were inferior. In the neighbourhood of Worcester, many of the fences consist of stone walls. Within a few miles of Boston five or six men were engaged in throwing peats out of a bog, seemingly for the purpose of fuel.

The horses observed on the roads were lean and inferior. Draught oxen seemed in good condition, and of large size. Many of the cows were finely formed, of a deep red colour, with dark faces. Barberry, elder, and aller were growing plentifully in a state of nature. The rhododendron seemed to occupy the place of furze in Scotland—the kalmia that of heath.

CHAPTER VII.

Journey from Boston to Lowell—Lynn—Salem—Newburghport—Female waiters, or helps—Agricultural notices—Stage passengers—Lowell—Manufacturing females—American and British manufacturers—House building—Benevolent Societies—Water power—Manufacturing power of Britain and the United States—Notices of Nature.

Having had my eyes injured in travelling from Albany, I was unable to enjoy the sights of Boston—accomplishing only, with the aid of a shade, the delivery of a letter at 50, North Market, where there is an extensive assortment of agricultural implements, meriting the notice of farmers.

Next day we left Boston for Newburghport, a distance of twenty-four miles, travelling by way of Lynn and Salem, the latter containing about 13,000 inhabitants, many of whom are extensively engaged in the Indian trade, and the former containing 4000 souls, is celebrated for the manufacture of ladies' shoes.

Newburghport is situated on the banks of the river Merrimack, three miles from its mouth, over which there is a suspension bridge of six arches, 350 yards in length. It possesses considerable trade, and contains a population of about 7000 souls. In our progress through the New England States, attendants at table, except in cities, were chiefly females, more especially during tea, which is invariably served out by them. The female waiters at Newburghport were ladylike in manners and appearance, and politely opened the door on our retiring from meals. In every case that came under our notice, their demeanour was prepossessing, and such as would command respect from gentlemen. Having been unaccustomed to such attendants, I felt disappointed at the manner in which their services were received at table—a polite or kind expression 0055 43 never being addressed to them, and their assiduous attentions unacknowledged. In no instance did I observe a female attendant seat herself at table, nor even in the room with the guests of a hotel, and only on one occasion, in a private house, a help of slender years occupied a seat in a dark corner of the room during tea, when her assistance was not required. I do not see why a help of low or high degree should not seat herself when her services are not wanted. There are many anomalies in human customs. In Asiatic countries, the slave is required to bend himself almost in the dust, while in Britain the superior exacts homage in an erect posture.

Remaining for the night at Newburghport, we hired a gig for the purpose of visiting a farm fourteen miles distant, belonging to a gentleman residing at New York, to whom, for his polite and friendly attention, I am much indebted, and should feel pleasure in having an opportunity of expressing my gratitude by deeds. We returned by Newburghport, in time for dinner, after which we proceeded by stage to Lowell, along the banks of the Merrimack by Andover.

The country from Boston to Newburghport and the interior, which we visited, is low and marshy, with a poor soil and inferior crops. The pastures appeared in most cases suffering from want of drainage and previous management. In the eastern States of America, and more especially in those of New England, hay is the best paying article of farm produce, which induces farmers to mow their grass lands when first sown down, year after year, so long as the herbage can be collected with the scythe, after which it is converted into pasturage. Grass land so treated cannot fail of yielding a poor return in pasturage in any country, and more especially in the States of New England, where there are few natural grasses, the soil poor, and where the husbandman does not assist nature by a judicious supply of seeds. Many of the enclosures consist of stone walls; and in one instance, near Boston, I observed an excellent thorn hedge. On the farm which we visited, there was a good short-horn bull, and a thrashing-machine. The wheat straw of the preceding year was sadly mildewed. In one instance I observed meadow 0056 44 foxtail grass growing in a situation which induced me to think it was indigenous.

The surface of the country along the banks of the Merrimack, after leaving Newburghport, is finely undulating, and several sweet lakes were seen. The soil, on passing Andover, was of the worst description of sand, bearing crops truly wretched. A few patches of hops were seen in the fields.

The stage from Newburghport to Lowell was crowded with well-dressed females, unembarrassed in manner, untainted with forwardness or vulgarity, and who evidently had not been accustomed to high life. On our arrival at Lowell, we observed several stages deposit loads of the same sex, which circumstance was accounted for by the extensive cotton-manufactories situated in the immediate neighbourhood. There is a constant succession of females departing from, and arriving at, Lowell; the high wages of those attending the factories attract such as particularly want a sum of money, after obtaining which they return home.

Lowell is the chief seat of cotton manufactures in the United States was formerly a section of the town of Chelmsford, and derives its name from Francis Lowell, who introduced the manufacture of cotton into the States. It is situated at the confluence of the rivers Merrimack and Concord, and has risen into manufacturing importance of late years. The source of its riches and power is the water of the Merrimack, which is conducted to the town by a canal, one mile and a half in length, eight feet deep, and sixty wide, distributed by lateral branches, and again discharged, either into the Merrimack or Concord; the fall being thirty-two feet. Lowell communicates with Boston, from which it is distant twenty-five miles, by a canal, and a railway is now forming.

The manufactures comprehend those of cotton, and woollen of various kinds, gunpowder, ale, &c. The chief manufacturing company is the Merrimack, which, in 1832, employed four hundred males and nine hundred females, with one thousand looms and twenty-six thousand spindles at work.

By the census of Lowell for January, 1828, the total population was 3532, of which 2190 were females. On 12th June, 0057 45 1830, the population was 6477, whereof 4085 were females. The following is the census on 1st June, 1832— White Males.

10 ( under ) 703

10 to 20 563

20 to 30 1,996

30 to 40 720

40 to 50 208

50 to 60 62

Above 60 27

White Females.

10( under ) 771

10 to 20 1,465

20 to 30 2,735

30 to 40 638

40 to 50 238

50 to 60 83

Above 60 52

Grand Total, 10,254.

The females engaged in manufacturing amount to nearly 5000, and as we arrived at Lowell on the afternoon of Saturday, we had an opportunity of seeing those connected with some of the largest cotton factories retiring from labour. All were clean, neat, and fashionably attired, with reticules hanging on their arms, and calashes on their heads. They commonly walked arm in arm without displaying levity. Their general appearance and deportment was such that few British gentlemen, in the middle ranks of life, need have been ashamed of leading any one of them to a tea-party. Next day, being Sunday, we saw the young females belonging to the factories going to church in their best attire, when the favourable impressions of the preceding evening were not effaced. They lodge, generally, in boarding-houses, and earn about 8s. 6d. sterling per week, independent of board; serving girls earn about 4s. 3d.

The recent introduction of large manufacturing establishments, thin population, and ample reward of labour, account for the apparent comfort and propriety of the Lowell young women. The Situation of the manufacturing class in Britain is very different: nurtured amidst poverty and vice, they toil in crowded and unwholsome factories from infancy, often disregarded by parents and employers, and attaining maturity ruined in constitution and in morals, with few of the sympathies of humanity.

The factories and dwelling-houses at Lowell are mostly composed of brick, although good building stone is to be had 0058 46 everywhere. The people seem to be influenced by habit in house-building at Lowell; a wooden dwelling-house was being erected where rock, which had been dug from the cellar, was obstructing its progress, and thousands of loads of stones quarried in forming a railway, were lying at not more than one hundred yards distant. Here I saw a stone arch building across a lateral branch of the canal, which was the only bridge of that material I saw—wood generally being used for their construction. Many large sized dwelling-houses and factories were in the progress of erection.

Lowell is connected with the village Belvedere by a bridge over the river Concord, the water of which is also employed in propelling machinery. In Lowell there are seven newspapers published, one of which is a daily paper. There are no less than forty religious and benevolent societies—a magnitude of number, owing, perhaps, to the many religious sects wishing to equal each other in good deeds. This village may be taken as an instance of the giant strides by which the United States are advancing to greatness, and the immeasurable water power nature has lavished on them. The canal supplies more water than the present machinery requires; and, after inspecting the surplus in the canal and rivers, I am of opinion, there is water enough to propel nearly one hundred times the machinery at present employed, and which might employ a population of above a hundred thousand souls.

Britain is said to owe much of her greatness to the supply of coal with which she has been blessed; but however extensive and available it may be, the water power of the United States will excel it in cheapness and magnitude. The price of labour is, and will likely continue, much cheaper in Britain than in the United States, which seems the only circumstance that can ultimately give a superiority to the manufactories of the former.

The strawberry plant was met with in every direction throughout our excursions, and the fruit was found to be of superior quality on very poor soil on the banks of the Concord. In one instance I removed a plant from the earth, the leaves of which did not cover three-fourths of an inch in diameter, 0059 47 bearing two ripe berries and one unripe. The apple-trees from Boston to Lowell exhibited leafless trunks; and, on inspection, I found the cankerworm which was said to have destroyed them had disappeared.

At Newburghport the noise of toads and land turtles, in the evenings, was deafening. At Lowell we first became acquainted with the call of the bull-frog, which in loudness and expression strongly resembles the note of the English bull.

CHAPTER VIII.

Journey from Lowell to Saratoga—Keene—Bellows Falls—Townsend—Arlington—Driver at Table—Landlord and Driver—Passage of the Green Mountains—Stage Coach practices of America and Britain—Passengers and Travellers—Juvenile Politeness—Agricultural Notices—New England Villages—Free School Education unfairly estimated by British travellers—Education of Scotland and the United States—Public Schools—Fagging in the Seminaries of Britain—Principles of Education.

We left Lowell on the morning of the 2d June, passing through Gorton, Townsend, New Ipswich, Jeffrey, and Keene, a pretty little town with a neat square, in which there is a church with a handsome spire, and many of the houses are composed of brick. The situation is an extensive plain surrounded by well-wooded hills, but the beauty of the place is injured by the want of trees and grass in front of the houses in the square. The population amounts to about 2500 souls. There are two glass manufactories—two for cotton, and one for woollen are about to be erected.

Bellows Falls are romantically situated on the river Connecticut, the approach passing round the base of a beautiful mountain, and over a bridge across the rapids of the river. The manufacture is paper, the machinery propelled by water obtained from a canal half a mile in length, and there is a vast unemployed power.

Townsend is a small village lying in the bosom of a sweet amphitheatre of hills of limited extent. Its general effect is somewhat destroyed by a glaring church spire, the basement of which is painted white, the middle part pea-green, and the top a chocolate colour.

0061 49

Arlington consists of a few houses; it has a stone church, finished with turrets of wood work, a combination of materials in the exterior of buildings very common in the United States and the Canadas.

At New Ipswich, the driver of the stage seated himself at table with the passengers, which was the only instance of the kind that came under my observation. Some of the passengers were of the most genteel description, and the driver conducted himself with propriety.

On arriving at Bellows Falls, the landlord of the hotel saluted the stage driver with “How do you do, captain?” and he answered—“Quitewell, major—this is a cold morning.” The major in question ushered us into the breakfast room, where he presided with a suavity of manner that would have done credit to a Frenchman; and I considered this individual the most courteous I met with in the course of my tour. The hotel-keepers of the country are the noblesse of the district, and are generally chosen, by the people, officers of the militia. Captain is a general title for stage drivers; and I found, both in the States and Upper Canada, that military titles of high sounding were often used as nicknames. I did not enquire if our driver was actually a military captain, but so far as appearance entitles a man to rank, he might have been a field-marshal.

The road from Jeffrey to Arlington is through a poor hilly country, abounding in scenic beauty of infinite variety, which afforded me more pleasure than the banks of the Hudson. From Bellows Falls to Arlington we passed over what, in common parlance of the country, is termed a new built turnpike, leading through the Green Mountains, which had been only a few weeks open to travellers, and some parts of which were almost impassable. Twenty miles of this road is through a dense forest, quite impervious to the sun's rays; and for five or six miles on the other side of the Green Mountains towards Arlington, in a deep narrow ravine, the rocks and hills being finely wooded to the summit. The country opens up into picturesque views towards Sunderland, which is a few miles from Arlington.

Passing the night in a crowded hotel at Arlington, we D 0062 50 proceeded next morning to Saratoga, by Union Village and Schuyler-ville, where the stage stopped a little after twelve, to afford two passengers an opportunity of dining, who did not take breakfast at Arlington, although only twelve miles distant from Saratoga, the end of our journey. This accommodating spirit of stage-coaches stopping whenever passengers choose to feed, and calling for or setting them down at their respective residences in towns, seems at variance with the character of the people, and is somewhat trying to the temper of a newly-imported traveller. In Britain travellers must wait for the coaches which arrive and depart from each place at specified hours, with perfect punctuality. In America the coaches wait for the travellers, and the consequent irregularity is such, that if a coach is said to reach a given place by twelve, there is an equal chance whether it does so by twelve at noon or midnight.

The road from Arlington passes for many miles along the river Battenkill, the banks of which afford good sheep-pasturage, and some fine grain-growing districts were seen near Cambridge, before reaching Union Village.

From Schuyler-ville to Saratoga, the soil is of the quality of drift-sand. A fence of considerable extent was observed on the wayside, composed of pine-tree roots adhering to the trunks, and placed close to each other, so as to form an effectual barrier against ordinary intruders. This was the most picturesque fence I ever beheld.

The stage passengers and other travellers we came in contact with throughout our excursion in the states of New England, were chiefly mechanics, unobtrusive in manner, intelligent, and free from vulgarity. They conversed on every subject connected with their own and other countries, and betrayed none of that question-searching curiosity imputed to the population. They seemed to possess a general knowledge of British literature, and more especially of the works of Sir Walter Scott and Robert Burns. They are also familiar with the works of Captain Hall and Mrs Trollope, and occasionally asked if I found the people of the States as inquisitive as represented by those writers. The proceedings and success of Dr Franklin were often quoted; 0063 51 and the life of that great man seems to have had no small share in stamping the character of this class of the population.

The external appearance of the houses after passing the Green Mountains became gradually less attractive, till at last they were little better than mere log-houses.

Primary or State schoolhouses were frequently seen, and I regretted not having an opportunity of examining the proficiency of the pupils. The little boys attending the schools were often going without stockings or shoes, and the girls generally wore flowing trowsers to their ankles. On one occasion, in passing through the state of Vermont, I observed four little girls and two boys going to school, dressed in clean clothes, with nice little baskets over their arms, which I conjectured to contain their dinner. When the stage passed by them, the misses curtsied, and the boys bowed to the passengers. I was much gratified at this voluntary and unexpected display of juvenile politeness, and repeatedly kissed my hand in return; but recollecting they might not understand such a mode of acknowledgment, I leant my head out at the coach window and bowed familiarly, when they seemed delighted at my interchange of civilities, and smiled to each other.

A valued friend, residing in the neighbourhood of Montreal, informed me he was visiting at Rochester, in the state of New York, in 1831, when a plain-dressed little girl approached the window of a cottage at which he was seated, on a fine summer evening, and curtsying, asked him for a rose, a flower which was growing profusely round the cottage. He told her to help herself to the prettiest she could find, but being afraid of injuring the bush, she returned, asked the use of his knife, which being granted, she departed with the object of her affections.

The surface of the New England States is often hilly, always highly undulating, and the soil generally rocky, and of the most inferior description of sand. The staple crop appeared to be rye; and we did not observe fifty acres of wheat throughout journey of 400 miles. The grass was scanty, and seemingly incapable of fattening oxen, from its 0064 52 inferior quality. The cattle, as already stated, were of a good breed, but often remarkably lean. Sheep were inferior, and so also were horses used for farming purposes. The mode of farming did not meet my approbation; but perhaps bad land, like bad wives, can be managed by every one but by those who possess them; and a foreigner unacquainted with the peculiarities of the district cannot be an infallible judge of such matters. It appears to me, however, impossible that the New England States can furnish food sufficient for the population; and the time is perhaps near at hand when the whole produce will not do more than maintain the agriculturists, and supply the manufacturers with dairy produce, leaving their butcher-meat and bread to come from other districts. The present farmers find difficulty in earning a subsistence, and any thing paid in the name of rent must be truly insignificant.

The villages of New England are uniformly clean, airy, and neat, with spacious openings near the centre, in which churches form the most prominent feature. Indeed, a village is seldom seen without having two or three churches of considerable size, composed of wood, painted white, and surmounted with a spire, and generally flanked with a considerable extent of shades for waggons and horses belonging to people coming from a distance. The houses are, in some instances, built of brick, but more frequently of wood, painted white, with green Venetian blinds, opening to the outside. Both churches and dwelling-houses seem to be painted annually; at least, they are never seen in the slightest degree dingy coloured. The houses of every size and fabric, have a light appearance from the number of windows they contain, the legislature not taxing the inhabitants for enjoying air and light through the medium of windows as in Britain. The houses seldom indicate either extensive wealth or poverty of the inmates; and although the architectural decorations are often in bad taste, and the materials of which they consist associated in the mind of the Europeans with instability, yet the general effect is highly pleasing, and the villages want only the judicious aid of flowers and shrubs to render them absolutely beautiful.

0065 53

The system of Free-school education in the Eastern States does not appear to have been fairly estimated by some British travellers. Mr Stuart, in chapter xiv. of “Three Years Residence in America,” states, “the general plan of education at the public Free-schools, is not confined to merely reading, writing, arithmetic, and book-keeping, and the ancient and modern languages, but comprehends grammar, mathematics, navigation, geography, history, logic, political economy, and rhetoric; moral and natural philosophy; their schools being, as stated in the printed regulations, intended to occupy the young people from the age of four to seventeen;” and in chapter xvi. he takes the same view when conversing with President Jackson. Captain Basil Hall and Mr Hamilton seem to consider them charity-schools, and consequently objectionable to an independent people.

The public Free-schools, or what are called “common schools,” and maintained by public funds, are managed in each district by twelve directors, chosen by the people, at which children are taught gratis, the parents furnishing books. The funds being inadequate to provide teachers during the whole year, men are engaged to teach in winter, and women, who are engaged at a cheaper rate, to teach during the summer. The period of teaching varies according to the extent of funds, which are managed with economy, and seldom exceeds nine months throughout the year, and in some States only six months. In one or two States, there is also a Free grammar-school in each county town.

It has been formerly stated, that an opportunity of examining the common schools of New England did not occur. I, however, saw the scholars of upwards of twenty of them in the school-houses, and on the play-ground. I also saw several of the teachers. None of the scholars, who, in summer, are chiefly girls, seemed above twelve years of age, and the teachers were invariably females. From this circumstance, it appeared to me that Mr Stuart had confounded the district common schools with the grammar-schools of the county towns; and many of the natives, to whom I showed his account of the schools, readily agreed in this view. Indeed, to state that little children and female teachers in the woods of America 0066 54 should be engaged in logic, rhetoric, and navigation, is taxing credulity too far.

The funds, remunerating teachers of common schools, being provided by the State, for general use , not only removes from the inhabitants any feeling of degradation or dependence, in the education of their children, but renders it their duty to prefer such seminaries, when the teachers are equally good. It is singular that Captain Hall and Mr Hamilton, both Scotsmen, should consider these schools eleemosynary and degrading, when the religious establishment, as well as the schools of their own country, are similarly situated. The inhabitants of Britain do not consider themselves partaking of charity when listening to teachers of religion, or preachers in connexion with establishments, nor when educating their children at public seminaries, the teachers of which are almost always in part remunerated by public funds, and the fees consequently lower than they would otherwise be. In private tuition the teacher has, in most cases, received his education in part from public funds, and, in consequence, is a cheap source of instruction. The principle of public education in Scotland and the United States is the same, and if at all eleemosynary, the degree is less in the American States, where the inhabitants generally have a voice in levying and disposing of the funds. The Scotch system of schools is, however, preferable, by guarding against a change of teachers, frequently injurious to the progress of those under tuition—the appointment of parochial teachers being for life, or during good behaviour; and each session continuing throughout the year, with the exception of two or three weeks' vacation. The schools are not like those in the States, free; but in consequence of the teachers having a fixed salary, the fees may be said to be half-price, which operates on the diligence of the teachers, and is a considerable boon to the inhabitants. In some of the States, where common schools are open half the year, the expense to parents is nearly the same as in Scotland, where the parochial school is open throughout the year at half-price, without, however, the pupils having a chance of making the same progress.

Public schools are founded on the principle of diffusing 0067 55 knowledge amongst the people, thereby raising the standard of morality—by which crime is prevented, and good government secured. Simple, and in some respects defective, as the American common school system is, it has, nevertheless, succeeded well, and seems suited to the present wants of the people.

Reading and writing, with the elements of arithmetic, which can be attained in a few years, enable those to improve themselves by application who are at all desirous of acquiring knowledge. Indeed, the learning generally obtained at school may be regarded as but a foundation to build on in after life; and therefore the schools of the United States and Scotland supply, alike, the primary means of ultimate improvement. A longer and severer course of mental study than afforded by these institutions often converts weak minds into polished nothings, without adding to the usefulness of the man.

The system of fagging, so generally introduced into the higher seminaries of England, and which may be described as each of the senior members holding a junior in slavery, requiring not only the discharge of menial services, such as brushing clothes, and cleaning shoes, but often the performance of criminal and immoral actions, is altogether unknown in the States. Fagging is so complete and systematic in many of the English schools, that the junior boys have not the power of resisting the commands of their seniors, and must lie or steal at their nod. Such a system inculcates passive obedience in the weak, and absolute power in the strong; the ductile youth, after being corrupted by vice, and degraded by offices of slavery, becomes, in turn, slave-master, when recollections of his former sufferings leads him to exercise his power with more zeal, and when so trained, he is sent forth to play his part in the world. Powerful minds occasionally overcome the effects of this pernicious education, but ordinary ones are unable to do so. It is chiefly the aristocracy of Britain who are reared under the fagging system, and it unfortunately too often influences their conduct in after life. A law prohibiting fagging in seminaries of youth would be a blessing to Britain, where man too often fags his fellow-creatures.

Fagging has found an eloquent advocate in Mr Hamilton, 0068 56 in his work entitled “Men and Manners in America,” wherein he seems to consider its menial duties as tending to overcome pride of birth and station. But even in this narrow view fagging must be condemned, as the menial offices are forcibly imposed, and flow not from philanthropy of feeling or legitimate authority, but from usurped and overpowering tyranny. Menial offices in the seminaries of England are the means of corrupting, not of improving youth, and fagging fosters the worst of human vices. If pride of birth and station is to be corrected, public schools where fagging is unknown, and where all the pupils are placed on an equality, will best attain the object.

Mr Hamilton treats of fagging as if it were general in England, whereas it exists only in the higher description of schools, and is, I believe, altogether unpractised in Scotland. When lately discussing this point, a friend stated that fagging existed at the academy of Dollar in Scotland; and on applying to my brother Charles, who was educated at that seminary, if such was the case, I learned that he himself was the only instance of an attempt of the kind, a big fellow having claimed such a privilege on his first arrival, and which was frustrated by Willie M—and he joining and beating the tyrant well. Very few Scotch boys would feel inclined to fag their companions, and still fewer to submit to such a bondage.

The education of youth ought to embrace all that is necessary for discharging the duties of life, and is most effectual when combining industrious and moral habits with the highest degree of mental cultivation—on such a principle some of the schools of continental Europe are founded, and it is also acted on in one or two instances in the State of New York.

CHAPTER IX.

Company at Saratoga—Fast Eating—Notices of Buel Farm—Mr Buel—New York—State Agricultural Society—Advantages of a young country—Farmers of Britain and the States—British Agricultural Societies.

We reached Saratoga, the most celebrated watering-place in America, about two o'clock, and found accommodation at Congress Hall, the principal hotel in the village, and capable of accommodating 300 individuals. On retiring to prepare for dinner, my friend and I debated the nature of the attire in which we should appear—he conceiving it unnecessary to change our travelling garb, and I thinking it proper to assume full dress, in expectation of meeting the gay, wealthy, and polished of the land. We soon found ourselves seated at a second dinner table, consisting of a numerous company, which the railway coaches had just brought from Albany. The party displayed few symptoms of refinement. A gentleman on the opposite side of the table deliberately folded up the sleeves of his coat before commencing dinner, planted both elbows on the table, and swallowed his food voraciously, without once looking to the right or left. I felt, and perhaps looked, disappointed at the hurried manner in which the party dined; and on the company leaving table immediately afterwards, my friend enjoyed his triumph of opinion, and quizzed my shoes and stockings, as a marked singularity which both of us were anxious to avoid. Tea was served at seven o'clock, and, as usual, the repast was a regular feeding race. Business may have originated, but it cannot always excuse the practice of fast eating; and the inmates of Congress Hall were in perfect idleness.

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In the industrious and lower ranks of life I observed slower mastication, and greater politeness and attention to each other at table than what is generally met with at fashionable hotels. The former frequent boarding-houses, not very plentifully supplied with waiters, or female helps, and they consequently assist each other in carving, and other duties of the table, while they have fixed hours of relaxation from business, affording ample time for eating, whereas commercial men, and other people who are not laboriously employed, eat at table with numerous attendants, and at short intervals snatched from business. Therefore, the traveller in America who draws an inference from what he witnesses at the public tables of hotels, unfavourable to the manners of the lower ranks of the inhabitants, does them injustice.

At Saratoga we tasted the different mineral waters, so deservedly celebrated, and next morning travelled to Albany by the railway. The soil over which we passed was unproductive sand, with exception of the banks of the Mohawk, in the vicinity of Schenectady. Betwixt Schenectady nd Albany, the plains of the railway exhibited sand of fifty feet deep, having a thick covering of small pine-trees.

I was fortunate in finding Mr Buel at home, so well known as a farmer throughout the Union. I walked over this gentleman's grounds on my first visit to Albany, and enjoyed the same privilege a third time in October. The surface is highly undulating, the soil inferior sand, and extremely wet, though capable of being drained. Notwithstanding these disadvantages, some good crops were seen, more especially Indian corn and Swede turnip, the latter having been sown after a hay crop, with bone manure, manufactured by Mr Buel himself; and the state of the farm is, perhaps, one of the most striking instances in America of man overcoming the sterilities of nature.

Some attempts had been made at enclosing with hedges, consisting of American and British thorn, as well as locust. The hedges were not of sufficient age to enable me to judge of the fitness of the last-mentioned plant for farm purposes; but I certainly did not augur favourably of it, from the specimen before me. The American thorn was preferred by 0071 59 Mr Buel to the British; and, perhaps, indigenous plants will generally be found superior to foreign ones. In the present instance, however, the soil was not such as I have found congenial to the British thorn, and the management of the fences had not been unexceptionable. A few days afterwards I had a proof of the growing powers of British thorn at Geneva, where I cut a growth of the season on the 24th of June, from the hedge of Mr W—'s garden, three feet in length. This, joined to the fine hedge of Mr F—of the same place, establishes the fitness of the British thorn for the climate of America. The American thorn has very broad leaves, large fruit containing several seeds; and when growing in single trees, has horizontal branches, few prickles, and is apparently more dwarfish than the British species, which possesses pendulous branches, with numerous prickles. The British thorn has the property of growing throughout spring, summer, and autumn, which, with its numerous and strong prickles, eminently fits it for a fence plant.

Although Mr Buel's farm is much celebrated, it presents few attractions to any one conversant with British agriculture. He is himself, however, an object of interest to the farmer of any country who has studied his profession. His conversation on a variety of subjects amply unfolded to me the treasures of an enlarged and well-stored mind, and I was delighted to find his views of improving agriculture harmonize with what I had long advocated in my humble sphere. At separation he presented me with the printed proceedings of the New York State Agricultural Society, of a considerable portion of which he is the author; and I imagine a day spent with Mr Buel one of the richest agricultural treats that can be enjoyed in North America.

The New York State Agricultural Society was incorporated by act of the Legislature, on 26th April, 1832. A Report, recommending a Legislative grant, was approved, at a general meeting of the Society, in February, 1833, and in all probability the grant has been obtained before this time. I extract the Report, as conveying, in the general remarks, with a few exceptions, my own sentiments.

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“ Report of the Select Committee on the Memorial of the New York State Agricultural Society.

“Mr Sudam, from the select committee to which was referred the memorial of the New York State Agricultural Society, praying for the establishment of an Agricultural School,

“Reported:—That they have had under their consideration the subject submitted to them, accompanied by a report made, during the present session, to the New York Agricultural Society, and on which their memorial to the Legislature is predicated.

“It will be conceded that there is no portion of the community more entitled to the fostering care of the Legislature, than the tillers of the soil. The farmers of the State of New York are a class numerous, wealthy, industrious, patriotic, and above all other classes, from principle, devoted to our republican institutions, and cherishing with a holy spirit the union of our States. Their political exertions are not called forth by a desire of any great portion of their own body for legislative honours, or for those of the minor judicial situations in the State; but to maintain and preserve inviolate that sacred trust which has descended to them by the revolutionary efforts of their fathers, the full protection of life, liberty, and property.

“When a storm arises in the horizon, and danger awaits us from abroad, or when crazed ambition at home drives the frenzied passions of men to madness and all its excesses, it is in the farming interest of the country that you find the steady hand which holds the balance of political power, and by its strong arm repels the foe, or by its electoral voice annihilates the unjust hopes of the aspiring ambition of profligate politicians.

“It may be said by your committee, (without the imputation of a State vanity,) that New York holds a high rank by her munificent endowments of colleges, academies, and common schools. We, knowing their extent, need not elaborate on them in this report. Still it is but just to say, that she is already cited in Europe as a signal instance of what may be 0073 61 done for the education of every class of society, under the soft and benign influence of a free government, and that her motto is, ‘Knowledge is wealth.’

“In her enterprise, by facilitating intercourse between the different sections of her State and the waters of the Atlantic, she is as unrivalled in conception as she has been successful in execution. Not content with this, it is an admitted fact, and worthy of all honour, that she has carried into effect the most perfect prison discipline in the world; and we have already witnessed the wise and the humane of Europe resorting to her shores to ascertain the art of subduing the rebellious passions of the worst of our race, without the aid of those sanguinary punishments which have so long disgraced the Old World.

“Thus she has expended millions of her money, and already has she erected a monument to the wisdom of her statesmen, more durable than any ever dedicated to the victor of a thousand fields.

“Who are they who have contributed so freely, so generously to expenditures calculated to immortalize the State, and to establish its glory on so pure a foundation? Mainly the farmers of your country, the yeomen of the land, the tillers of the soil. Freely have they given, and joyfully have they paid, and most rich results have been the consequence of their enlightened liberality.

“Is it then unfair to ask, what has been done by the legislature for a class of its citizens so numerous, virtuous, and meritorious? The stranger, when he sojourns in our land, and views all that has been done for the cause of science, for education in the higher branches of literature, for your common schools, for the reformation and punishment of crimes on a scale superior to any State in Europe, naturally enquires: Show me your agricultural school. You are essentially an agricultural people; a class of society who have aided so liberally to the institutions of your State, must have received the constant and peculiar care of legislative protection and patronage, by forming their minds, their habits and their tempers to become the patrons of the noble monuments already erected, and which, while they shed lustre on our State, have placed her first among her sisters in the Union.

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“Shall we any longer be compelled to answer? We have no such institution; we have provided an ample revenue for all but a complete course of practical instruction in agriculture. In almost every State in Europe, the attention of despotic governments has been called—nay, seriously and sedulously directed to the formation and endowment of schools of this description. There it is admitted the motive to a certain extent may be mercenary—to provide food for taxation. Here it is a debt due from the State to a class which, before they asked for themselves , have contributed to all others.

“It is conceded by your committee, that to a certain extent farmers are not fond of innovations. If experiments are tried, they are too often limited to one or two. If they fail, it is condemned. That prejudices of this description are fast wearing away, we admit; but that they still exist, to a considerable extent, there can be no doubt. And a gentleman farmer is generally at hand, as an instance of a poor farmer. But it is not the intention of the committee to endow an institution to rear up and educate persons in the mere theory of husbandry. It is to combine practice with science; and if it should be said that this would be a school only for the children of the more opulent, the unanswerable argument is, that it is the same in regard to your colleges, and must be so of necessity. Still the results of such an education, practised upon in all parts of the State, must and will lead to the most beneficial results. A good example is worth a world of mere speculation.

“In a school of this kind, under competent managers, there may be concentrated the best models of practice, in rural labour, known at home or abroad. The various breeds of domestic animals, the varieties of garden and orchard fruit, and the implements of husbandry, may be here satisfactorily compared, and their relative merits and advantages determined. Diversified experiments may be made in the various departments of husbandry, calculated to instruct and improve us in practice. Mechanical science, particularly what is denominated The Mechanics of Agriculture , may be illustrated and taught in the best manner, in the shops, and on the farm. The application of science to the mechanic and manufacturing arts, 0075 63 has, in a wonderful degree, simplified their manipulations, abridged their labour, and rendered their results more certain. From what has already been done, we are not permitted to hesitate or doubt but science will prove equally beneficial to agriculture. There is no business which embraces a wider range in natural science than this.

“The laws which govern organic and inorganic matter, which influence the economy of the animal and vegetable kingdoms, it cannot be denied, have a controlling influence in the operations of the soil, and in the business of raising animals and plants. Education (practical education) is nowhere calculated to diffuse a more benign influence in society, than when bestowed on the farmer. He neither claims nor can exercise a monopoly. His improvements and his knowledge diffuse light around him, and are beneficial to all within the sphere of their influence.

“Your committee feel assured, that if put into operation, this school will become, not only popular, but highly useful. To the pupil it will afford the most important advantages, besides instruction in the principles and practice of rural labour, which, of itself, confers the power of creating wealth. It will afford him the advantages of a literary school , qualify him for the higher duties of civil life, and give him withal, what is seldom acquired but in youth, habits of labour and application to business; calculated alike to promote his individual happiness, and the good of the State.

“With such an education, combining personal labour for a practical knowledge of all the instruments of husbandry, and the mode and manner in which it is to be prosecuted, those scientific pursuits will be prosecuted with a certainty that the foot of labour is guided by the unerring results of experience, founded in and regulated by the laws of nature.

“This school is intended to be purely agricultural. But in saying this, it will be necessary to open a course of instruction, combined with labour, which your committee venture to say, will be as interesting, and to the State, as valuable, as that which may be acquired in any other seminary. The different qualities of soil, as fitted for the various products of the earth; the use of compost and manures, as applicable to 0076 64 soils: the seasons for planting the rotation of crops, and the vast mass of practical information which enables man to transform a wilderness into a paradise, is worthy the pursuit of the richest as well as the humblest of the land.

“Again, the importance of procuring, at all times and at fair prices, prime stock, of the best breeds of cattle, ought not to be omitted, either as an inducement to the Legislature, or as of the first importance to the people.

“The question is, shall we endow a school, to which many would desire to send their children for the purpose of preparing them to depend in future life on one of the most certain, and therefore the most happy of human pursuits; combining in itself all the elements of constant, regular, and sagacious employment; and freed from the cares and corroding recollections, present or past, of the pursuits of a political life?

“It is evident that law, divinity, and physic, are overstocked. The pursuits of commerce are laborious, and do not very often yield a return to persons of a moderate fortune and liberal education: as now educated, they are not fitted for farmers; so tenaciously do those early habits adhere to them, that the attempt at agriculture is generally a failure. Your committee propose to give them a school, to which resort may be had for the cultivation of the mind, and the improvement of the person: Laying the foundation for future toils and pleasures, (for toils in agriculture are pleasures, when conducted to a successful result,) for future health and happiness, and preparing them to rear up a race, fit to transmit to posterity the liberties we so highly cherish.

“Your committee do not, in this report, enter into a detail of the expenditure necessary for this school. That is so fully treated of in the annexed report to the Agricultural Society, that they could only repeat what is there stated. But they cannot close without remarking what must be obvious to all, how much skill and science may effect in agricultural pursuits.

“Is there one of our body who has not seen, and remarked, the difference in adjoining farms, where nature had made no difference in the soil? It is this practical skill, this science, combined with labour, that they desire, (most anxiously 0077 65 desire,) to bestow on a rising generation; and they deem it their duty, most earnestly, to press it on the consideration of the Legislature, as called for by every consideration due to the public welfare, to the true and lasting interests of the State; and as the last, but most substantial pillar in the varied edifice of her public institutions.

“Impressed with this belief, and that the school recommended will, in many ways, prove highly beneficial to the community, and persuaded that the State will ultimately be fully indemnified for her advances, your committee have prepared a bill in conformity with the prayer of the petitioners, which they have directed their chairman to ask leave to present.”

“ Report of the State Agricultural Society, Albany, February 14 th, 1833.

“The committee appointed at the first meeting of the Society, to report a plan for an Agricultural School, with an estimate of the expense necessary to establish and put the same into operation; together with their views of such an establishment, beg leave to submit the following report:—

“The main objects of the proposed school are, to impart to agriculture the efficient aid of the sciences, and to furnish it with the best models of practice; to teach, simultaneously, in the period of youth devoted to academic studies, the practical operations of husbandry, and such branches of useful knowledge as may tend to elevate its character and increase its products. The plan , therefore, should embrace,

“1. A Farm, of sufficient extent to afford room for the diversified operations of tillage, cattle and sheep husbandry, and of orcharding and gardening—on a scale that will admit a fair comparison being made of crops, of breeds of cattle and sheep, and of the varieties of hardy fruits; and sufficiently diversified in soil and surface as to admit of satisfactory experiments:

“2. A Farm House and Farm Buildings, which may serve as models of convenience, taste and economy, and accommodate the head farmer and his assistants:

“3. A School Building, for the accommodation of teachers and scholars: E

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“4. A Library and Philosophical Apparatus:

“5. Stock and Implements for the farm: and,

“6. Shops for the construction of farm implements and machinery, for the use of the farm, for the illustration of mechanical science, and to afford practical instructions to the pupils in mechanics.

“These items of expense, which may be considered preliminary and permanent, together with the cost of the furniture required for the school building, are estimated at $7,500.

“1. The plan of education might embrace: practical instructions in the various operations and labours of the farm, the garden, the orchards, and the shops: and,

“2. The study of the natural sciences generally, mathematics, mechanics, chemistry, and drawing, so far as these may conduce or become subservient to agricultural improvement; together with such other branches of knowledge as will qualify the students for the higher duties of civil life—such as will fit them to become independent electors, discreet jurors, faithful magistrates, and wise legislators.

“As prerequisites to admission to the school, the pupils might be required to possess a good common school education, to be at least fourteen years of age, and of good moral character. Four years might constitute a course of studies; and the internal regulations and police of the school might be conformed, in a measure, to those of our military academy.

“A department of the farm should be set apart for experiments in husbandry, and the details and results of these experiments accurately registered. The garden and the orchard should contain all the good hardy fruits, and specimens of all hardy plants, that may be useful on the farm, in the arts, in commerce, or that are ornamental—in order that the relative value of different species and varieties may be determined, and their mode of culture and process of curing taught to the pupils, and the approved kinds furnished for public distribution.

“To put the school into operation, there will be required—a principal, professors, and teachers—a steward and servants, for the school:

“A manager, labourers, and assistants, for the farm:

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“Machinists and assistants for the shops: and,

“A practical and scientific manager for the garden and orchard.

“The number of officers and assistants which will be required, must depend upon contingencies: and of course the committee do not pretend to state with precision, in their estimate, the amount of their salaries and pay.

“The proceeds of the school and the farm may be expected to increase for some years, and will materially depend on the terms of tuition. The committee have assumed, as reasonable data, that the number of pupils would average 200, and the average produce of the farm amount to $4,000 per annum, for the first four years. Upon the assumed data, then, the estimate would exhibit the following result:— Preliminary Expenses.

Farm of 400 acres, at $30, $12,000

Farm buildings, 6,000

School buildings, 25,000

Library and Apparatus, 7,500

Stock and implements, 3,150

Shops and tools, 1,250

Furniture for school, 1,150

Incidental, 1,500

Total preliminary expense, $57,550

Annual Expense.

Salaries of officers and teachers of the school, $5,100

do manager and labourers on farm, 1,000

do machinists, 600

do gardener, 300

Expense of boarding 200 pupils, at $1,50 per week, 14,400

Servants for the establishment, 2,000

Estimated annual expense, $23,400

$80,950

The Annual Receipts are computed as follows:

Board and tuition of 200 pupils, at $150 per annum, $30,000

Produce of farm, 4,000

$34,000

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“Thus the total expense of establishing the school, and of maintaining it the first year, is estimated at $80,950, and the income, after the first year, it is believed, will be amply sufficient to defray all expenses. Yet to meet contingencies that may occur, and to make up for any deficiency in the estimate, the committee think that an appropriation of $100,000, the surplus to be invested for the benefit of the institution, will ensure usefulness and permanency to the school, and prove amply Sufficient to meet all its wants. This sum, if equalized among the population of the State, would operate as a tax of about five cents to each inhabitant.

“Your committee have thus complied with the requisitions of the society, in submitting the plan of an Agricultural School, and an estimate of the expense necessary to establish and put the same into successful and permanent operation. It only remains for them to state their opinion of its utility.

“The agriculture of a country affords the best criterion of its prosperity. Whether we compare kingdoms, states, counties, districts, or farms, the condition of this branch of labour, which they severally exhibit, is a sure index, not only of the pecuniary, but of its moral condition. It is no less an axiom founded in truth, that agriculture prospers or languishes, in proportion to the science and skill of the men who manage its labours. It is not the natural fertility of the soil, so much as the intelligence and industry of those who till it, which gives to husbandry its interests and its rewards. The man who devotes the energies of a highly cultivated mind, to the improvement of this primitive and all-important branch of labour, is a public benefactor. Cincinnatus did more to immortalize his name, and to command our applause, by his love of rural labours, than by his military exploits. Washington, amid all the honours that irradiated his brow, sought his highest pleasures in the business and retirement of the farm. And it was the first remark of our present chief magistrate, to the writer, after introduction, that he would not forego the pleasures of the farm for all the honours and emoluments that this nation could confer upon him. Education enables man to appreciate the wonderful provisions which God has made for his happiness in rural life, and imparts to him the ability of diffusing instruction and happiness to multitudes around him.

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“It should be the policy of government, therefore, which watches over the interest of all, to infuse into the labours of husbandry, all the lights of science and knowledge—to take care to expand and elevate the minds of those who are to give it efficiency and character, and to call forth skill and industry by proffered rewards. With us these considerations possess peculiar force. Our population and business are emphatically agricultural, and every aid which is extended to this class benefits, indirectly, every portion of the community. Agriculture constitutes the fountains of the thousand rills, which, swelling and traversing every part of the State, propel the spindle and the hammer of the artisan and the manufacturer, and finally, by their union, make up the mighty stream of commerce which unceasingly flows into the Atlantic.

“That our agriculture is susceptible of improvement—that the products of its labours may be doubled, nay, quadrupled, must be apparent to those who have compared our husbandry with that of some European countries, or who have contrasted at home the well-cultivated district or farm with those which are badly managed. How is the desired amelioration to be effected? How can a better husbandry be so well promoted, as by teaching it to our youth? By sowing our seed in the springtime of life? Prejudice nowhere retains a stronger hold than among farmers who have approached or passed the meridian of life. While some retain old practices, for want of confidence in their knowledge to guide them in better ones, others lack the first requisites to improvement—a consciousness that their system is not the most useful; while not a few are influenced, in their hostility to public means of improvement, by the desire to keep things to their own level. If we would efficiently improve this great branch of business, and elevate its character, as well as the character of those who are engaged in its operations, we must do what universal experience has shown to be the only sure method. We must lay our foundation in the rising generation—we must teach the young idea how to shoot—we must instruct the head to help the hands. Our physical and mental powers are twin sisters; they lighten each other's labour, and mutually impart a zest to each other's enjoyments. And as it is becoming common to 0082 70 introduce manual labour into literary schools, it is courteous that literature and science should requite the civility, by associating with the inmates of schools of labour.

“Agricultural schools, although of modern date, have nevertheless been established in most of the states of Europe, and their utility has been fully demonstrated. Who has not heard of the school of Fellenburgh, at Hoffwyl, or of Von Thayer, at Moegelin—to which young men are sent from every part of Europe, and even from America? In France and Prussia, agricultural schools have been founded and maintained by the governments. If they are found to be beneficial, and worthy of governmental support, in countries where power is vested in the few, how much more salutary must they prove here—where our institutions receive the impress of their character from the many, and where the perpetuity of these institutions depends emphatically upon the intelligence and virtue of the agricultural population. Despotism will never flourish in American soil, but through the ignorance, and, we may say, consequent depravity of its cultivators.

“Your committee recall to recollection, with feelings of pride, the munificent benefactions of the Legislature, to advance the literary character of our State; and the fact, that comparatively nothing has been done, legislatively, to improve our agriculture, which employs five-sixths of our population, can be ascribed to the fact, that nothing has been asked for—nothing thought of. Our public colleges and academies, for literary instruction, are numerous and respectable. They meet our eye in almost every village. But where are our public schools of labour? Where is the head taught to help the hands, in the business which creates wealth, and which is the grand source of individual and national prosperity and happiness? Our literary and professional schools have been reared up and sustained by the expenditure of more than two millions of dollars from the public treasury, and they continue to share liberally of the public bounty. It will not, however, be denied, that the benefits which they dispense are altogether partial,—that the rank and file of society, destined by heaven to become the conservators of civil liberty, are virtually denied a participation in the science and knowledge,—in the means 0083 71 of improvement and of happiness which they are calculated to dispense. Is it not a mandate of duty, then, as well as of expediency, that the benefits of public instruction should be more generally dispensed?

“We hazard not the fear of contradiction in assuming, that if a moiety of public moneys, which have been appropriated to literary schools, had been judiciously applied, in rendering science subservient to the arts, and in diffusing the higher branches among the labouring classes, the public benefits from the appropriation would have been far greater than they are at the present day. How many hundreds may now be pointed out, of liberal education, who are mere ciphers in society, for want of the early habits of application and labour , which it is the object of the proposed school to form and infix! And how many, for want of these habits, have been prematurely lost to their friends, and to a purpose of usefulness for which man seems wisely to have been created—that of doing good to his fellows.

“From a full conviction that the interests of the State not only warrant, but require, an appropriation of public moneys to this object, your committee beg leave to recommend to the consideration of the Society the following resolution:

“ Resolved , That a respectful memorial be presented to the Legislature, in behalf of this Society, and of the great interest which it represents, praying that suitable provision may be made by law, for establishing a school of agriculture, on the plan recommended in the preceding report; and that the co-operation, in this application, of societies and individuals friendly to the object of the petition, be respectfully solicited.”

The report is attributed to Mr Jesse Buel, and is a document creditable to its author and the society which adopted it. It advocates mental cultivation of farmers, as the best means of improving agriculture, and youth as the seedtime of an abundant harvest of human knowledge. Whatever diversity of opinion may exist in rural matters, every individual who has reflected on the subject, will admit the mind of the farmer is the chief implement of husbandry on which the agricultural system depends, and by which its advancement 0084 72 can be best effected. Man is the principal animal connected with the farm, and the amelioration of his mind more important than the improvement of brute formation. Mr Buel knows well the strength of prejudice existing amongst farmers, the results of their isolated situation, and that youth is generally the only season when new impressions can be made and acted on. In advanced agriculture, the mind will guide the hands as well as all farm machinery, and science and art become blended together in the relation and loveliness of conjugal unity. Mental illumination of farmers is not merely calculated to advance agriculture, but to enable them to see, in their professional pursuits, the means of serving their fellow-creatures, and the exhaustless bounty of God.

New York is justly considered the leading state of the Union, being celebrated for prison discipline, extensive canaling, common schools, and if Mr Buel's vigour is spared for a few years, it is also likely to be distinguished for its agricultural institution.

The United States possess great advantages, from being new or young countries, in which no class have exclusive privileges, and where the selfishness and prejudices of classes are seldom manifested. The inhabitants are a mixture of all nations, or the descendants of such, in which the fetters of old customs have been loosened perhaps by collision, and, in measures of general utility, they can at once adopt the wisdom of antiquity without its folly. Many of their public institutions are illustrative of this as well as Mr Buel's report.

How different is Britain and Ireland from the state of New York, where the “tillers of the soil” are regarded as the most patriotic class, holding the balance of political power, and alike ready in repelling foes and restraining profligate politicians. In former ages the cultivators of British soil were considered mere vassals, and termed villains. At present they are lightly esteemed by those who chiefly reap the benefit of their exertions; and although this is the age when the schoolmaster is said to be abroad, judicious steps have not been taken to improve their condition.

Agricultural societies are to be found in almost every county in Britain, but their proceedings seldom directly 0085 73 embrace the improvement of the moral condition of humanity. Indeed their proceedings have sometimes an opposite tendency, by seeking to maintain monopolies and duties on foreign produce, which cripple trade, curtail the field of industry, and enhance the necessaries of life, from all of which wretchedness and vice flow. But the population actively engaged in agriculture are also little cared for, and their condition seems declining comparatively with other classes. Such institutions too much overlook youth and moral agency in improving agriculture, and spend much of their funds and time on minor objects.

In making these observations on the agricultural societies of Britain, I am aware of some exceptions. The Liverpool society is a good institution, and a manufacturing district is the situation where an efficient society might be expected in Britain, as furnishing members liberal in mind, and comparatively free from agricultural prejudice.

The Highland Society of Scotland is also a good institution; its ample funds accomplishing much for the benefit of the country by giving premiums; but more advantage would result from their application in the improvement of youth, and in cultivating an experimental farm something analogous to what Mr Buel recommends. Edinburgh would form an excellent situation for such, where there is already a University Professor of Agriculture. An experimental farm of sufficient size would furnish better results from systematic procedure and continued registration, than the efforts of isolated individuals. With such an institution, sons of landed proprietors might be instructed in the science and art of farming, and the management of property. Stock and seeds might be experimented with and improved; and by the sale of them the institution would support itself.

CHAPTER X.

Journey to Geneva—Schenectady—Question Asking—Stage Driver—Valley of Mohawk—Agricultural Duties—Utica—Attention to Females—Marcellus—Skeneatiles—Cayuga Bridge—Dinner Party—Dumfries-shire Farmer—Sheep Husbandry—Condition of Animals—Farms—Geneva.

We left Albany in the morning, and breakfasted at Schenectady, which contains about 5000 inhabitants, and from its situation on the Mohawk, the union of the Erie Canal, and railway from Albany and Saratoga, it is likely to rise in importance. From Schenectady we proceeded, by stage, along the valley of the Mohawk, on the north side of the river, to Utica, where we arrived about two in the morning, the state of the roads being bad.

The temperature was unpleasantly warm throughout the day, and the stage crowded with passengers, who were generally agreeable companions. One of them, a gentleman in dress and manners, while conversing with my friend, enquired what country he came from, and immediately apologized for so doing. It is but justice to the people of America to say, this was the first question put to either my friend or me evincing curiosity, and considering conversation had been previously continued for hours, it was not altogether inexcusable. Travellers from a foreign land generally ply with questions the natives they come in contact with, and thereby lay themselves open to questions in return.

The driver who carried us to Utica behaved improperly towards my friend, regarding his luggage. He was a saucy fellow, and spouted what he perhaps considered wit, and others insolence, with every person who spoke to him. In fact, he was the only insolent driver I met with in the United States, this class of men being generally civil and accommodating to their passengers. He treated all travellers alike, and when told by an American he had taken four hours 0087 75 to drive fifteen miles, answered it was just an hour less than he intended to have taken. The drivers receive no gratuity from passengers, and can only be acted on by civility.

The state of the weather and stage-coach conveyance prevented our enjoying the scenery of the valley of the Mohawk as I expected; and after passing Little Falls, I exchanged places with a friend on the box seat. The object appearing, when the sun was approaching the horizon, was the German flats in the neighbourhood of the Herkeimer. But the shortness of twilight soon shut the landscape from my sight, and the brilliancy of the fire-fly alone remained to attract attention.

I again passed through this part of the valley of the Mohawk, in the end of October following, when the weather was fine, in a canal packet, which afforded a better opportunity of seeing the scenery than travelling by stages, as on the former occasion. There is no part of America which I visited so interesting as this valley, which happily combines the beauties of nature with the comforts of man. The Mohawk is a moderate sized stream, according to the conceptions of a Briton, and wends its way gently through a valley, bounded by verdant hills, adorned with an infinite variety of vegetable productions. The road and canal in many places approach the verge of the river, where the scenery assumes the boldest character, and the different objects around Little Falls have few equals in any part of the world. The bottom of the valley affords evidence of successful cultivation, and its beautiful sloping sides are thickly covered with cattle and sheep browsing on the herbage. The country around the Herkeimer, near which the West Canada creek joins the Mohawk, as seen from the canal, is truly fertile, and the inhabitants of the valley apparently wealthy and happy.

In New England States, I observed a few plants of a class known to British farmers as wild mustard, chadlock, &c. &c., and which appears to me raphanus raphanustrum , but not in such numbers as to injure the crops.

On entering the State of New York, the raphanus was common, and methought I could distinguish the wild turnip from the stage-windows. Between Schenectady and Little Falls, 0088 76 these weeds, in one or two instances, were choking the crops. The wheat crops throughout the valley of the Mohawk were good; the Indian corn had suffered severely from frost and the overflowing of the river, which had, a few weeks before, attained a most unusual height, and imparted a disagreeable appearance to much of the land, which was little elevated above the river.

Utica is situated on the Erie canal, and is a handsome, thriving place, containing about 10,000 inhabitants, and became a city in 1832. We again, after a few hours' rest, proceeded on our journey, and reached Auburn, where we stopped for the night.

At Manlius we dined with a large party of travellers, who arrived by different stages, and afforded several marked instances of cooing, which the newly-married people of this country seem to indulge in. During this day's travelling, and on other occasions, the behaviour of such people appeared, to our British notions, verging on indelicacy, and completely at variance with the general opinion of English writers, who suppose that the females of the United States are treated with neglect. Judging from what, of this nature, came under my notice in different parts of the country, I was led to think the American husbands attentive in the highest degree, and some of the ladies absolutely spoiled by too much attention. In almost every hotel chairs at the head of public tables are reserved for ladies, and they invariably occupy the principal seats in stage-coaches.

This day (21st June) the weather was warm, the thermometer in the stage, which is open on each side to the free admission of air, indicating 82 degrees at five P.M. Fortunately, myself and two friends were the only passengers after dinner, and we enjoyed a rapid drive through a fine country; there being no regularity with regard to time, the speed of the stages is often in the inverse ratio of the number of passengers. The prospect from the village of Onondaga-hill, which has two churches, is beautiful and extensive, embracing Onondaga lake and the villages of Syracuse and Salina. Beyond Onondaga-hill is Marcellus, which reminded me of the villages of New England, and is the prettiest place 0089 77 seen to the west of Albany. A farther drive of six miles brought us to Skeneatiles, situated at the foot of the lake bearing the same name, which, unruffled by the wind, and gilded by the rays of the setting sun, was sleeping in bright tranquillity. Skeneatiles is more beautiful than Marcellus—contains about 1200 inhabitants, and every thing in the village and neighbourhood indicates wealth and prosperity. At seven in the evening we reached Auburn, the seat of a state-prison, where the system of prison discipline, so justly celebrated, was first introduced.

Early next morning, the 22d June, we pursued our journey, passing over Cayuga lake by a remarkable wooden bridge, upwards of a mile in length. The lake is here very shallow. The bridge rests on posts, and was in a dangerous state for want of repairs. A new bridge was being formed, adjoining the old one, and seemingly of improved construction. Seneca falls and Waterloo are thriving villages, through which we passed, and reached Geneva in time for dinner. We stopped at the Franklin hotel, kept by Mr Mann, a most obliging individual, and where we found a large party, consisting chiefly of travellers. The table was well stored with brandy, which, with exception of water, was the only liquid; and my friend, who is well known for sobriety of character, drank more of it than all the rest of the company put together.

Having letters to several people in Geneva, induced me to remain some time. Next day we attended divine worship at a Dutch reform church, and every thing which came under notice at Geneva, showed the Sabbath to be observed with propriety. Monday, the 24th June, proved wet, and so cold, that fires in the public rooms of the hotel were courted for their warmth. The rain ceasing about noon, we walked after dinner round the north end of the lake, to visit a farmer from Dumfries-shire, Scotland.

Mr J—possesses strong natural parts, and is an instance of what energetic and persevering industry is capable of accomplishing in this country. On his first arrival he was very poor, and often employed himself in carrying wheat for hire. One year he raised by his own labour 900 bushels of wheat, with only the assistance of a small boy in harrowing, while he himself 0090 78 was engaged in sowing. His farm is now his own property; and this season he has sixty acres in wheat, equal to any crop of similar extent I ever examined. His system is to sow clover amongst wheat, which affords good pasturage in autumn, and is fed off in the following spring; the land is ploughed in the end of June, and after an imperfect fallowing, sown with wheat in autumn. The Dutch farmers in the neighbourhood also sow clover with the wheat crop, which in spring is ploughed down for manure, without being fed off. This shows how much nature does for the farmer,—one year providing manure, and in the next a wheat crop. Skill might improve the system followed, but the period of introducing advanced agriculture into the United States has not yet arrived. Mr J—applies fifty heaped Winchester bushels of lime to an acre, which costs nine cents, or 4½d sterling, per bushel. Gypsum costs fifteen cents per bushel, and is only used for clover and Indian corn. This being the season of applying it to the latter, people were carrying it in baskets, and putting a pinch on each hill or cluster of plants. Half a bushel is sufficient for an acre, and imparts an improved appearance to the crop in four days, except on black soft land, where it has little effect.

Mr J—feeds labourers on the best of fare, and finds no want of them at any time. His wheat crop is cut with the cradle scythe at $1 a-day and found, that is boarded—and two binders follow the cradler at 62½ cents. Wheat is cradled at $1½ per acre, and grass at $⅞ labourers finding themselves—and the work well done in both cases. Americans, Dutch, English, Irish, and Scotch, he finds work equally well. All his crop, including hay, is housed, and he considers a dollar per bushel a good price for wheat.

A good many sheep were shown us, a mixture of Saxon and Merino blood, which are not anointed with any kind of liquor or salve, and never stricken with fly. They are kept in courts during winter, fed on hay, and lamb betwixt 20th April and 20th May. Mr J—'s flock was in better condition than any yet seen, though poor, and the lambs were starvelings, compared with those reared in the cultivated parts of my native district. He says his sheep seldom die, having 0091 79 only lost two out of five hundred in the course of two years, and the mortality amongst lambs was not much greater. The price of his ewes, when the lambs are weaned, is $3, and that of two-year old wedders, $2 and $2½. Fleeces weigh 3½lb., and his wool at present is worth 60 cents per lb.

We examined a large collection of wool belonging to Mr R—, which was of fine quality. He told us one of his yearling wedders, weighing 29lb. yielded 2lb. 9oz. of wool; and the small size of this sheep induced him to think an acre of ground would yield as much fine wool as coarse. But the data furnished by this animal are not satisfactory, as its wool and carcass, in all probability, bore a different proportion in the preceding autumn; since which, the latter may have decreased, and the former increased. The carcass of a live wedder, weighing 29lb., must have consisted only of bone and sinew; and the weight of wool, compared with that of the sheep, may be held as evidence of wretched condition, and not of superiority of wool-growing.

Mr J—'s cows were beautiful animals, and very fat. For some days past a great improvement in the condition of cattle had been observed, arising, perhaps, from better pastures, and the advance of the season. There was also an obvious change in the inhabitants, having seen more corpulent men since leaving Schenectady than in all our previous wanderings in America.

Mr Stuart, in his “Three Years' Residence in America,” remarks, there are few lean animals; but observation leads me to a different conclusion—cows, sheep, and pigs, taken collectively, being apparently the leanest and most neglected creatures I ever saw in any country. The condition of the horse is greatly superior to that of other animals, yet many are met with on the Erie canal equal in wretchedness to the most overwrought animal in Britain. Combining the price of the animal and of food, the daily expense of a horse is much higher in Britain than in the United States, while the wages of his driver are proportionally lower; hence a poor, weak, lame horse may be an object of profit in the one country long after he ceases to be so in the other, and the fatness 0092 80 of the American horses is not owing to abundance of food in the country, or humanity in the people.

We examined a farm within three quarters of a mile of Geneva, belonging to Mr W—, consisting of 280 acres, 200 of which were cleared, fenced, and subdivided, with good dwelling-house, two servants' houses, suitable offices, and a large productive orchard, for which he asked $35, or L.7, 5s. 10d. sterling per acre. The public burdens affecting the property were eighteen days' labour of a man yearly for road-making, and $2 for school-tax. There is a flour-mill on an outlet of the lake, propelled by an endless screw lying horizontally in the stream, which, for want of fall, is unsuitable for any common machinery. A steam flour-mill had been set a-going in the village a few days before our arrival.

Geneva is situated on the west side of lake Seneca, near its northern extremity, commanding a view of the lake, which is the most beautiful sheet of water in America. There is a college, four churches, a bank, and other public buildings. The chief part of the village consists of a square, and a street of neat villas running parallel to the lake, on which a steam-boat plies daily to the extremity, distant thirty-five miles.

CHAPTER XI.

Journey from Geneva to Lewistown—Land offered for Sale—Canandaigua—Genesee Country—Variations of Temperature—Agricultural Notices—American and Scotch notions of Reverted Wheat—Genesee Flats—Mr Wadesworth—Avon—Wood Bridges—Girdling Trees—Falls of the Genesee—Rochester—Ridge Road—Face of the Country.

We left Geneva in the morning by a stage-coach, and after travelling through a country of clay soil, badly farmed, but bearing excellent wheat crops, arrived at Canandaigua. Having a letter to a Scotch gentleman residing there, I discovered him by his national appearance when riding on the street. I was gratified at visiting him, and in viewing his new house and fine garden, one of the rarest sights in America. The necessity of proceeding with the object of my tour, prevented me sharing his sincere hospitality, and I returned to Blossom's Hotel, and dined in an excellent room of large dimensions. In the afternoon we walked four miles in the direction of Mills, to view some lands for sale, and found the soil and wheat crops on the road generally good. For fine cleared land $25 per acre was asked; and a person accosted me on the road and offered his farm of 100 acres, and his father's of the same extent, with suitable offices, at $28 per acre. Almost every farmer in the eastern States who has a family, or is in straitened circumstances, is willing to sell his land and move to the western States, where he can obtain soil of equal quality, and in a finer climate, at a twentieth part of the price; and foreigners, who are easily known, and supposed to be in search of land, are constantly asked to purchase farms.

Canandaigua is situated near the outlet of the Lake of the F 0094 82 same name, which is navigated by a steam-boat. The principal street extends back on rising ground nearly two miles, and consists of separate villas, as white and clean as paint can make them, with green Venetian blinds, situated at some distance from the street, and surrounded with umbrageous vegetation, which at this warm season imparted an appearance of coolness and luxury. Besides a garden in front, crowded with rose bushes bearing a profusion of flowers, many villas have a considerable extent of ground behind, capable of maintaining animals, and affording every family convenience. The buildings and beauty of Canandaigua surpass any place I have seen out of New England; and the wealth and comfort of its inhabitants may be owing to its early erection and situation in the Genesee country, the most celebrated wheat district in America.

The Genesee country was sold by the State of Massachusetts to Messrs Gorham and Phelps, who obtained 6,000,000 acres, at about eightpence sterling per acre; but finding difficulty in fulfiling their bargain, the land passed into other hands, and part of the country now belongs to the Pulteney family of England.

We left Canandaigua by a stage-coach at three o'clock in the morning, and suffered considerably from cold. When day dawned, a little after four o'clock, my thermometer, exposed on the outside of the stage, indicated 43°, and at Allanshill, on the outside of the hotel window, 45°. On different occasions I experienced inconvenience from variations of temperature in America, which are greater and as frequent as those of Britain. We reached the village of Genesee early in the forenoon, and from the courts being then sitting, could not be received where the stages stopped. The landlord and driver were not accommodating, but we soon found a very attentive hotel-keeper in a different part of the village.

The surface of the country, from Canandaigua to Genesee, is undulating and picturesque, but ill cultivated. The wheat crops generally good, and a considerable extent of ground preparing for fallow, by breaking up grass land which had been depastured. In some cases, four oxen and a horse were dragging a plough, a boy riding the horse in front, and a 0095 83 driver to the oxen. In every case, a driver was employed with oxen, and horses generally riden by boys when in the plough, which, I supposed, was owing to their being little accustomed to this kind of labour.

I had observed the wheat crops of America abounding with a species of grass passing by the name of chess, which I imagine to be the Bromus secalinus of botanists, and which I have seen in the wheat crops of Surrey, England, and south of Ireland. A passenger between Canandaigua and Genesee, stated, that chess was reverted wheat, and originated from an inclement season, or bad seed, an opinion which I found pretty general in the States and Canada. This doctrine was made known to me by letters in the Genesee Farmers' newspaper, published at Rochester, numbers of which I received in Scotland, but it is so different to my observation and reflection, that I told the passenger, I would as soon expect a horse to become a pig, as wheat chess. From extensive observation in remote parts of America, I have not a doubt of chess being indigenous to the soil, and hence its growth amongst wheat crops, where the farmer did not sow its seeds.

Akin to the notion of wheat reverting to chess, is that of the same grain changing to darnel ( Lolium temuluctum ), lately advanced in Scotland, where the plant is provincially called sleepies. Botanists assign original types for cultivated plants, but farmers seem not to be agreed about that of wheat. Americans may arrange themselves on the side of chess, Scotchmen that of darnel, without throwing light on the subject. A plant cannot change from one species to another, or the vegetable kingdom would pass into confusion. Wheat, chess, and darnel, are distinct species.

Having heard much of the Genesee flats, I proceeded to call on their owner, on arriving at Genesee. Mr Wadesworth had gone to a distant part of the country, one of his sons being the only member of the family at home, and who had rode out after breakfast. On calling a second time, the young gentleman pointed out the way to the flats, where he said he would join us in an hour afterwards.

The Genesee flats belonging to Mr Wadesworth, are rich alluvial soil, ornamented with aged trees, deposited in 0096 84 groups and at intervals; and perhaps no gentleman's park in Britain equals them in fertility and beauty. They differ from the rest of the surface in this part of the country, by having been cleared by nature, and are chiefly in grass, affording the richest pasturage I ever saw, with exception of some fields in the neighbourhood of Boston, Lincolnshire, England. On examining some parts which had never been subjected to the plough, red and white clovers were particularly abundant, also timothy grass ( Phleum pratense ), and several kinds of poea. Cocksfoot was less common, and a few spikes of tall oat-like grass ( Holcus avenaceus ). Rye-grass or yellow-flowering clovers were not visible. A field was pointed out which had been mown for hay thirty-five successive years, without top-dressing, and the grasses were still in vigour of growth, interspersed with red clover nearly thirty inches high.

The young gentleman joined us on the flats, and pointed out every thing deserving of notice. The sheep were a mixture of Merino and Saxon breeds, and not fat looking. There was a fine shorthorn bull, intended to improve the dairy stock, which I did not see. This contemplated improvement originated from perusing the writings of the Rev. Henry Berry of England; and I took the liberty of advising the cross to be tried on a small scale, believing the short-horns the worst milking breed in Britain. This opinion was new to the gentleman, who said he would keep it in view, and proceed cautiously in intermixing the breeds. The grazing cattle were extremely numerous—four-year-olds, which had been bought in spring, and kept on hay till the arrival of grass, on which they are to be fatted. Mr Wadesworth intends to cultivate wheat extensively; and one enclosure, as a beginning, was bearing an indifferent crop. I have often observed wheat not succeed well on very rich ground, and that, in Britain, the United States, and Canada, soils which have been long under cultivation, yield the best crops of this grain when properly managed. There was a variety of implements Which brought to recollection those at Holkham, Norfolk, England. Amongst others, a mowing machine was exhibited and descanted on. We were shown a fine oak-tree 0097 85 growing on the banks of the river, and said to be twenty-four feet in circumference.

We passed the evening at the house of Mr Wadesworth, in agreeable and instructive conversation with the young gentleman, whose acquirements and intelligence were of a superior description. He expressed regret at the necessity of leaving home next day, but offered to place at my disposal his father's carriage, horses, and driver, with introductory letters to his friends in the neighbourhood, and said he himself would show us the country on the day following. Time would not admit of embracing the kind offer, and I notice this attention as creditable to a person of the highest influence and station, on whose good offices I had no claim. It has been my fortune to experience attention from eminent agriculturists in all ranks of life in Britain, and while the heart must be held as the seat of kindness, I can bear testimony to having found true agricultural knowledge, distinguished from what is empirical, connected with expansion of mind and liberality of sentiment. *

* The following extract is from a letter addressed to me, and dated 26th June, 1834.—“I called on Mr Wadesworth, Genesee. The eldest of the brothers died last year, leaving landed property to the amount of about a million and a half of dollars. The remaining brother, a man about seventy, inherits it all. His family consists of two sons and a daughter, the eldest of the sons was on his marriage jaunt. Immediately after introduction I was placed on a good horse, and directed down to the farm, of about 1200 acres, where I found your friend amongst the cattle, without his coat, and I could not help smiling as I contrasted him with our frivolous game-preserving lairds at home. With a mind infinitely superior to most of them, and the most unexceptionable manners, he considered it no disgrace to be actively engaged in business. I found him agreeable and communicative.”

Next morning we left Genesee and passed through Avon, frequented for its mineral springs, and beauty of situation. While the horses were changing, we found many people indulging in copious draughts of water, which I prevailed on my friend D—to taste, when he amused the bystanders by making a wry face, and exclaiming in a serious tone of voice, “Do people really drink that for health?” We dined at a stage house, and were much annoyed by a tipsy person whose impertinence called for an exercise of patience. He was descended of Irish parents, said to possess property, and seemingly an 0098 86 excellent customer to the bar-room. On reaching Rochester, I remarked to the driver, that he seemed to be traversing the same street twice in setting down passengers, and learned that he was afraid to cross a certain bridge, through which one of his horses fell a few days before and broke a leg. Few things in America appear more striking to a Briton than the wretched state of the wooden bridges, a material which he does not associate with strength or durability. We took up our quarters at the Eagle tavern, the landlord of which was attentive and accommodating.

The soil from Genesee to Rochester is chiefly clay, bearing excellent wheat, and nineteen-twentieths of the land in crop was producing this grain. I observed a good wheat crop amongst girdled oak-trees, in a field of considerable extent. Girdling is effected by cutting a ring through the bark round the tree, which does not again put forth leaves, by which sun beams and air are admitted to plants on the surface of the earth. This mode of improvement is only followed amongst oaks, the roots of which strike perpendicularly into the earth, and consequently are favourable to the progress of the plough; but the trees become more obdurate, and girdling is only excusable in the first operations of a new settler.

We lost no time in viewing the sights of Rochester, the chief of which is the fall of the Genesee river, ninety-seven feet in height, and celebrated by the ill-fated leap of Sam Patch in 1829. We enjoyed a walk down the banks of the stream on a lovely evening, but the scenery in the neighbourhood of the fall has been injured by the erection of machinery propelled by the water. The flour mills are numerous, and on the most extensive scale, said to be capable of manufacturing 12,000 bushels of wheat in twenty-four hours. There is an arcade, extolled by the inhabitants, but possessing no attractions to individuals who have seen those of other countries. Rochester is one of the many places illustrative of the growing wealth and population of the United States, and which some English travellers ridicule for want of antiquity, on the principle a withered old beau affects to despise the freshness and elasticity of youth. The first settlement took place in 1812, and the population is now estimated at about 14,000. The 0099 87 situation of the town, communicating with Lake Erie, and the extensive waters to the west, by means of the Erie canal, which is carried over the river in the middle of the town by an aqueduct of free stone, 800 feet long—with Lake Ontario by a railroad—with Montreal by the St Lawrence, and with New York by the Hudson, together with its splendid water power, renders its increase of wealth and population almost without limits.

Next morning we set out for Lewistown by way of Lockport, travelling on what is termed the ridge-road, a natural formation extending round the south end of Lake Ontario, at a distance of eight or ten miles, from the present waters, and nearly a hundred feet higher. It is from twenty-five to fifty feet wide, fifteen to twenty feet above the surrounding country, and composed of sand and gravel. The road is supposed to have formed the margin of the lake at some remote period of the world, but I had not sufficient opportunity to form an opinion on this point.

The country through which we travelled, after leaving Rochester, is more recently settled than any yet seen, the fields being thickly covered with black stumps overtopping the wheat crops; and the felling and burning of trees was going on in all directions. The houses were mere log-huts, and wanting in external comforts. The warm state of the weather induced the inhabitants to throw open the doors and windows, affording an opportunity of seeing the internal arrangements, and I can testify to their well-stored tables and general neatness. The crops were bad, and much of the soil so inferior as not likely to repay those engaged in clearing it of timber.

After a fatiguing ride, we reached Lewistown, a thriving village, at midnight, and found the bar-keeper and porter of the hotel intoxicated, which was the only instance of the kind I met during my transatlantic tour. By this time we had learned to take things as we found them, and in a few minutes our baggage and selves were in bedrooms without assistance.

CHAPTER XII.

Niagara River and Falls—Carving—Entrance to Canada—Cavern beneath the Falls—Rapids—City Building—Stage Passenger—General Broch's Monument—Letters—Maps—Queenstown and Niagara—Agricultural Notices—King—Old Settlers—Disappointment with Canada.

Aware of being near the Niagara river, which connects Lake Erie with Ontario, and which forms the St Lawrence, my first proceeding in the morning was to obtain a sight of this stream, from the window. The sun shone brightly, and displayed to advantage the white painted houses and endless forest, but there was no feature indicating a river. On walking a short distance from the hotel I unexpectedly found myself on the banks of the Niagara, moving in the midst of a flat country, betwixt low woodless banks void of beauty. On the opposite side lay Upper Canada; the village of Queenstown was seen in the distance, over which Sir Isaac Brock's monument was towering. I looked on the scene with feelings of a British subject, and, with a thousand associations rushing on my mind, anticipated new enjoyment from mingling with the inhabitants.

After breakfast we were seated in a stage on the way to the Falls of Niagara, winding up a steep hill, corresponding with elevated ground on the Canada side, called the heights of Queenstown. From the summit, the passengers expatiated on the extent and beauty of the prospect, but being unfortunately seated between two stout individuals, I was deprived of seeing objects at a distance. I could, however, perceive that the banks of the river, along which we travelled, underwent a change on reaching the height, being rocky, precipitous, and deep. It is conjectured, and appearances support 0101 89 the theory, that the cataract of Niagara once poured its torrents over this spot, and that it has receded to its present position, seven miles distant, by the gradual wearing of the rock. The soil from Lewistown, along the river, is inferior, bearing bad crops.

On reaching the village of Manchester, situated on the rapids of the river, we instantly sallied forth to view the Falls of Niagara, which I had long considered the most wonderful sight in the world. A remarkable and fragile-looking bridge leads across the rapids to Goat island, and we soon stood on what is termed the American falls, formed by that part of the river passing on the south side of the island.

I know not whether it was owing to unreasonable expectations, or the magnitude and sublimity of the object, that I felt disappointed on first viewing the falls. Instead of being riveted to the spot in breathless agitation, and soul-thrilling delight, a feeling of uneasiness stole over me, from which I sought relief by culling a variety of plants from the edge of the cataract. But every sight afforded additional pleasure, and hours flitted away in gazing on their endless beauties.

On returning to the hotel, a large and good establishment, numerous visitors of the falls had assembled for dinner, to which they did justice, thinking, perhaps, the grosser senses entitled in turn to gratification. Guests are not expected to carve, waiters either doing so, or carrying dishes to those wishing to help themselves. The numerous company induced me to cut up a joint, and having served a dozen of individuals, I was about to help myself, when the fragments were expeditiously carried off and placed before a gentleman at the extremity of the table. Amused at the way I had been treated, I resolved to involve a companion in the disappointment, by asking him to help me to mutton. He complied, and no other person was so honoured during his tour. Foreigners may well be excused carving, their utmost exertions being required to finish meals with the natives.

Immediately after dinner we set out for the Pavilion House, a celebrated hotel in Canada, a porter conveying our luggage in a barrow to the ferry, which we reached by descending a wooden spiral staircase. The river is 1200 yards broad. The 0102 90 agitated state of the waters conveys an idea of danger, and we were landed safely on the opposite beach in 14 minutes, having been drenched in crossing by the spray of the falls. Mr D—remained with the luggage, while we went in search of assistance to transport it. Two men of colour were met carrying trunks to the ferry, who brought ours on their return.

On the Canada side of the river, a wide road winds up the steep bank, at the top of which were carriages of different descriptions, and people walking to and fro. The ascent being long and difficult, afforded time for observation. Banks, rocks, trees, carriages, and people, appeared like those I had been accustomed to of late, and no important object indicated a change of territory. But characters of countries and individuals may sometimes be learned from trifles. On walking up the banks of the river, an elevated board attracted notice, containing the following inscription:—“All persons found on these grounds will be prosecuted.” This was so unlike any thing I had seen in the States, that it impressed me with an idea I had left the land of liberality, if not of liberty, and recalled associations connected with notice-boards of Scotland regarding steel-traps, spring-guns, and prosecutions according to law, which deface the country, and exhibit the characters of those who erect them.

The banks of the Niagara from the ferry to the Pavilion is the loveliest and most interesting portion of the globe. At the point where the footpath diverges is the Table rock, affording the best view of the Horse-shoe fall, one of the most splendid earthly objects the eye of man can behold. We reached the hotel in time for tea. Our bedroom windows overlooked the cataract, whose murmurings soon lulled us to repose.

Next morning, when the sun was peeping above the horizon, and ere the vapour had melted before his rays, we were at the Table rock, gazing with increased pleasure at the Horse-shoe fall, preparatory to entering the cavern below it. In a small shanty we changed our clothes for sailcloth dresses kept for visitors, and, laughing at our grotesque appearance, descended a spiral stair to the level of the river. The guide led the way, and after a considerable battering of spray and wind in passing the verge of the cataract, the interior of the 0103 91 cave was comparatively serene. We penetrated 153 feet to the Termination rock, where we conversed without difficulty, in a peculiar greenish light, the sun being distinctly visible through the falling sheet of water. The pathway is strewed with loose stones—the debris of the falling rock—and unpleasantly narrow. The guide seemed impatient to regain the outside, and I experienced no difficulty in breathing, or uneasiness of any kind. Next day I repeated my visit, when the spray and wind were much more powerful. On this occasion, Mr C—and I were preceded by three Yankee youths, two of whom lost courage on encountering the spray, and nearly overturned us in their hurried retreat. There is little danger in a pilgrimage to the Termination rock, and nothing to affect the nerves of an ordinary person, or to reward him, beyond the glory of having made it, and enjoying the finest of shower-baths, formed by the spray of the falling water.

The currents of air acting on the soft under stratum in the cave, is the primary cause of the lime rock giving way, over which the water pours, but how they should vary so much is not easily accounted for. At both visits the external atmosphere was still, but I did not remark the direction of the wind, or revolve the matter in my mind. Air mingled with water will at all times pass over the cataract, and the current in the cave may either proceed from the agitated water below being incapable of containing the same quantity of air as that above, or from wind passing through the falling sheet, as sunbeams do through glass.

At my first visit to the cave I lifted an eel about the centre, and restored it to the water. A toad was near the falling sheet, in full vigour of life, and on my second visit there was one near the same spot. In the channel of the river, and amidst the thickest vapour, swallows were whirling at all times, and occasionally seemed to pass within a few inches of the surface of the most impetuous part of the Horse-shoe fall. The suction and danger of the falls seem to have been exaggerated, and the noise and terror said to be experienced on viewing them, either do not exist, or my feelings were insensible to them.

At twilight of the evening of 1st July, I walked up the 0104 92 Niagara to deliver an introductory letter, when I was so much gratified with a sight of the rapids, that my friends accompanied me next night at the same hour. No person who has not seen the rapids can form a just estimate of the quantity and force of water descending the cataract. When standing at the verge of the river, a hundred yards below the grist mills, and looking up the stream, the most obtuse feelings cannot fail of being touched with the spectacle. Such is the breadth and descent of the river, that the water forms the visible horizon; and the mighty stream, in waving folds, seems issuing from the firmament. The sun had sunk to rest; the evening was soothingly still; the thin clouds of vapour rising from the falls curled gracefully over Goat island, and were lost in the distance. The agitated rapids formed a contrast with the serene sky emblematical of troubled earth and calm heaven.

Conscious of my inability to do justice, in the way of description, to the Falls of Niagara, when so many higher-gifted individuals have failed in the attempt, the works of travellers must be consulted by those interested in the matter. They will find descriptions, like the actual falls, abounding in so many beauties, that readers, like visitors, may select what is suited to their taste. Visitors, however, ought to perambulate the banks of the river and islands in the neighbourhood of the falls, and begin with the American or Canada side, according to their temperament. As few seem capable of appreciating the magnificence of the sight at first, it will generally be found the best policy to begin with the American side, which affords opportunity of seeing both falls; while the Horse-shoe and rapids from the Canadian side, the sublimest objects of the scene, are reserved for the last.

Two rival companies have commenced building villas on the Canada side of the Niagara, and in all probability will lead to the embellishment and improvement of the banks in the vicinity of the falls. The period has not yet, however, arrived for the population resorting to villas in Canada for a few months in summer; and city building at the falls seems as visionary an undertaking as could at present be entered into.

0105 93

On the morning after our arrival at the Pavilion, we entered a stage for the village of Niagara, formerly Newark, distant twenty miles, and found a passenger railing at delay. His dialect marked him from the north of Scotland; he could not be made to comprehend the distinction between the rivers Niagara and St Lawrence, and amused us by some remarks on different subjects. The beef of Canada, he said, was so tough that teeth could not chew it; and on being reminded his might not now have so keen an edge as when in Scotland, replied, there could be no great change on them, as he came to this country last fall; but when in the old country he only got beef once a-week on Sunday, here he had it three times a-day. The road is full of interest, from recent historical events, and was fringed with various kinds of fruit-trees, bending under an abundant crop. On reaching the heights of Queenstown, five or six individuals left the stage and went to the top of General Brock's monument, erected by the Government of Upper Canada to commemorate the services of that officer, who fell in the moment of victory during the last war with the States. The heights afford a sweet view of the junction of the Niagara with lake Ontario, and the surrounding country; the monument commanding a wider range of landscape, without diversifying the scene, and certainly does not reward the labour of reaching the summit. The party joined the stage at Queenstown, and soon reached Niagara, having deposited a passenger at the steam-boat on the river before entering the village.

My friend D—found letters at the post-office of Niagara, but the like fortune did not attend me, although our letters are said to have been put into the same post-office in Scotland, and similarly directed. I did not receive a letter from Britain while across the Atlantic, but my communications regularly reached their destination in Scotland. The post-office of the United States seems well conducted, but I experienced proofs to the contrary with that of Canada.

Few countries are better provided with maps than the United States, pocket ones being everywhere to be had, and the walls of hotels covered with them and information regarding stages and routes. We could not obtain a map of 0106 94 Canada, the booksellers of Niagara informing us a pocket one of the country never had been published, and almost nothing could be learned about mails and stages, which nearly placed us in the situation of pursuing our route blindfold. Dining at the village, we returned to the Pavilion in an extra, which corresponds to the post-chaise of Britain; and I took an opportunity of delivering some letters by the way. Queenstown and Niagara are mean dirty-looking villages, apparently without trade, and very unlike the clean bustling places on the opposite side of the river. The bar-rooms of the hotels we entered were filled with swearing tipsy people, and the establishments badly conducted, from the stage-coach to the presenting of butter; which, instead of being, as in the States, hardened by means of ice, was an unclean liquid.

Between the falls and village of Niagara the soil is partly clay and partly sand, both seemingly of indifferent quality, and bearing bad crops. The farm-houses are untidy, and the fences look old and dilapidated. No trace of recent improvement could be discovered, and the state of agriculture seemed stationary.

I had a letter to Mr—, whom I was requested to visit, as he had been nearly half a century in Canada, and possessed some fine farms in the neighbourhood of the falls. On enquiring at the landlord of the Pavilion, if he knew any thing of the gentleman to whom the letter was addressed, I learned he was a little king in this part of the world, with whom the landlord himself had served when a boy. Impressed with the rank of the person, I asked if I might venture to breakfast with him next morning. Yes, was the reply, you will be sure to get every thing of the best. The import of my question being misunderstood, I was told it was unnecessary to announce my visit beforehand. I requested an extra to be in readiness to carry us to—, and retired to rest, meditating on the treat expected from walking over some of the finest farms in Canada, in company with King—. Next morning rain fell in torrents, which detained us till after breakfast, when we travelled by the way of St David's, and at length the extra drew up at the door of a small wooden cottage. No time was lost in delivering and reading the 0107 95 letters; and I regretted to observe a restraint in the family, arising, perhaps, from the extra, which probably was the only one that ever approached their dwelling. When engaged in putting questions regarding farming, in presence of father and son, the old gentleman said he would send for his man Peter, as best qualified to answer me. Peter was from Stirlingshire, Scotland—had been several years in the country, and possessed more information and address than any of the royal family. He told me farm-labourers receive $10 a-month when engaged by the year, with board. In winter, labour can scarcely be obtained at $6 a-month, and boys sometimes engage for their food. Canadians drink less spirits than they did at one time, and they are not now served to labourers in the field. King—and Prince—boasted of making their farm implements, which a mechanic could have done at half the labour, and of treading out the wheat crop with horses. The day continuing wet, prevented a walk over the dominions , and we returned to the Pavilion in time for dinner, to the expressed regret of Mr—, who was as kind as possible; but a prolonged stay might not have been agreeable to either party. The interior of the house presented few marks of comfort, according to my notions at the time, although after experience in Canada enables me to say it was respectable in this view.

The old settlers are evidently the least enterprising class. Having come to the country uncultivated themselves, and ever since living without intercourse with the world, they seem content with the necessaries of life, which are easily obtained. Their descendants imbibe the same sentiments and habits; and before the first settled portions of Upper Canada can be farther improved, the present farmers must either sell to others of more enterprise, or another generation arise with new opinions.

I could no longer conceal the disappointment experienced with Canada and its inhabitants. The Pavilion House, so much praised by travellers, lately purchased by a company, and puffed off by advertisements, was greatly inferior to the hotels in the States. The manners and customs of the people were essentially Yankee, with less intelligence, civility, and 0108 96 sobriety. The houses and fences were inferior to those of any district yet seen, and instead of the youthfulness and never-ceasing activity of the States, there seemed the listless repose of doating age. The brute creation partook of the change—horses, cattle, sheep, and pigs, being inferior to those on the opposite side of the frontier. If such was the state of things in Niagara district—the paradise of Upper Canada—little could be expected from other parts of the province. My friends, at first, seemed to regard my opinions as more the result of prejudice than observation, but in a few days after, they drew a contrast less favourable to Canada than I had done. No unprejudiced traveller can spend a few hours on either side of the frontier line without remarking the difference of the two countries, and as the people, soil, and climate, were originally alike, the circumstances in which the inhabitants have been placed must alone account for the dissimilarity. If governments affect the state of countries, politicians would do well to visit both sides of the river Niagara.

CHAPTER XIII.

Baffled in reaching the Western States—Buffalo—4th of July—Oneida Indians—Fort Erie—Early Marriages—David Baxter—Petersburgh—Separate from Companions—Musquittoes—Settlers around Dunville—Earing of Wheat—Dunville—Face of the Country—Notices of Nature—Breaking Fruit-trees—Bar-room Group—Junction with Companions—Visit a New Settler—Politicians—Hamilton—York.

As it was my intention to visit the Western States of the Union, my friends agreed to accompany me round the north side of Lake Erie, and cross over to Cleveland, proceeding down the Ohio canal and river, passing north, through Illinois and Michigan, east by Upper and Lower Canada, and to Britain by the St Lawrence. We could not get information regarding roads or conveyances at the Pavilion, which we left in a stage for Buffalo on the morning of the 3d July, to push our way in the best manner we could, having forwarded our heavy luggage to York. The day being fine, the drive was delightful up the banks of the Niagara; here a broad smooth flowing stream, divided by islands, and a few feet below the surrounding country. The river does not at any time overflow its banks, seldom varying ten inches in depth, a peculiarity arising from the lakes, through which the waters flow, acting as reservoirs. The soil is clay of good quality, badly fenced, without indication of recent improvements, and appearances did not bespeak wealth or industry in the inhabitants. At the village of Waterloo, we crossed the river in a four-horse ferry-boat, and after passing through a country of recently cleared and inferior soil, reached the Eagle tavern at Buffalo in time for dinner, served in a well-lighted room, 93 feet long, and crowded with company.

Buffalo is situated in the extremity of Lake Erie, at the mouth of the Erie canal, and is the depôt of commerce passing G 0110 98 between the Eastern and Western States. In 1814, the village was reduced to one house, having been burned by the enemy. Now it contains many brick houses of large size; and I was struck with the stores, or warehouses, at the wharf, and the immense quantity of merchandise they contained. It is the chief port on the lake for steam-boats—a daily line sailing for Detroit, one of which, in course of the season, was said to have left the pier with 800 passengers on board. The Americans have fifteen steam-boats on the lake, many of them of the largest size, and four are building. The British had not one at this time—two small boats having been launched in course of the season, were undergoing repair, after having made a trip or two. American steamers do not touch at any port on the Canada side of Lake Erie, with exception of Amherstburgh, on the river Detroit.

The 4th July is a holiday over the Union, being the anniversary of American independence, and was ushered in at Buffalo with firing of guns, and other demonstrations of joy. All was again quiet by breakfast time; and a procession was to take place at noon. Approving of keeping such a day in remembrance, as impressing the mind of youth with love of liberty, I felt inclined to witness the proceedings, but the necessity of continuing my journey induced me to abandon the idea.

After breakfast, we got on board a miserable steamer of eight horse power, which landed us at Fort Erie in Canada. On the wharf at Buffalo we saw a number of the Oneida tribe of Indians, on their way to Greenbay, a branch of Lake Michigan. This tribe having sold their lands in the state of New York, government was conveying them to their new possessions. The poor creatures were standing in groups, dressed in their best attire, and many young and old of both sexes stupified by intoxication. I particularly remarked a grey-haired aged female, with a countenance of the deepest suffering, bearing in her arms a child of spurious origin. These descendants of the original owners of the soil have been gradually deprived of their birthright; and although Greenbay is 1000 miles from their old habitations, the white man in progress of time will envy their new possessions, and the poor 0111 99 Indian will retire still farther to the west, if drunkenness, and other vices acquired from the whites, do not exterminate the race.

On landing at Fort Erie, consisting of four or five houses, I was disappointed at finding that a gentleman, to whom I had a letter, resided three miles from the fort, and that it was doubtful if we could make our way round the south side of the lake, there being no regular conveyance of any kind; but I flattered myself if we could reach Gravelbay, at the mouth of the Welland canal, all difficulty would be over; and after some little enquiry, we succeeded in engaging a farmer to drive us there in his waggon.

I delivered letters, and dined at Fort Erie, where a pretty little miss, when enquiring about her friends at Edinburgh, said her cousin, Mrs—, was old when married. On replying I did not think so, she added, “O yes—quite old; she was six-and-twenty.” This lady's opinion of marriage was pretty well expressed, and I hope she may not be disappointed in her own fate. The people of America marry early. When at Montreal, a couple was pointed out, the lady being only thirteen years of age.

The waggon arrived soon after dinner, driven by its owner, Mr David Baxter, so much improved by change of dress, that I had difficulty in recognising him. He was son of a captain of militia, farmed 100 acres, and owned 200 more in the London district, yet he readily left his employment, and engaged to carry us nineteen miles for 8s. 6d. sterling. The horses were excellent, and he said to them a thousand times, “Jim and Jerry, go-a-long; bid you both; what-you-bout? wheel-away;” and being good-humoured and intelligent, time passed pleasantly in the waggon.

For eight or nine miles the shores of Lake Erie resembled the beach of the sea. The country at some distance was wet and partly newly cleared; the ridges eight or ten feet wide; crops, with exception of some wheat-fields, indifferent, and included a considerable extent of peas. Houses were mean; the inhabitants ragged and dirty. Cattle were small and lean. Many pigs were pictures of starvation; and on the 5th July their winter hair was hanging on them in matted masses, like 0112 100 the wool of sheep. At dusk, we reached a few log-houses, called Petersburgh, on the Welland canal, where we had one bed assigned to three of us, which was occupied by two, the third reposing on a chest, with a great coat below, and a cloak above him.

We rose at four o'clock next morning, and walked down the banks of the canal to its junction with the lake, and some miles to the west, to see a property for sale belonging to Mr—, for which $10 per acre was asked. After breakfast, we expected a waggon and a pair of horses to take us to Dunville, but the waggon being engaged in carrying hay, a small boat was provided to carry our luggage up the canal to the junction of the feeder from the grand river, in hope of getting a conveyance to Dunville. On learning the passage-boat was expected from, instead of going to Dunville, my companions became angry, and announced their intention of returning to Britain without loss of time, by way of the St Lawrence, a piece of intelligence not altogether unexpected. The luggage was the chief obstacle to our progress; and if it could have been dispensed with, they might have been induced to persevere. It was arranged that they should proceed down the canal to St Cathrine's, and wait my arrival at Hamilton.

I proceeded on foot to Dunville, distant eighteen miles, dining on poor fare at Marshville. On passing Cranberry-marsh, I was attacked by musquittoes, which clustered chiefly behind my ears, and defended myself for two hours by waving the branch of a tree in each hand, reaching my destination after nightfall, having walked fifteen hours in course of the day. My repose was disturbed by the nibbling of musquittoes; and on rising at day-break, I found vegetation most copiously covered with dew.

In the course of the day I visited settlers in the neighbourhood of Dunville, resident from a few weeks to three years, and found them leading lives of privation and hardship. In every instance, they were cheerful and looking with confidence to futurity; but it was evident to me they, generally, had entangled themselves with an extent of possession far beyond their means of paying for, and at a price so much beyond its real value, that accumulation of interest on the purchase money 0113 101 would ultimately weigh down the utmost industry. I felt for their situation; but the morning of first settlement shone so brightly, that prognostics of a coming storm would have been disregarded, and considered unkind. First crops on small clearances were half suffocated for want of air, and what came under notice, satisfied me that a settler in the forest, trusting alone to his own labour, will have difficulty in raising sufficient food for a family during the first three years.

The wheat crop of Upper Canada is sown in autumn, termed fall in this part of the world; that of the Lower Province in spring. I was informed fall-wheat sown in spring does not put forth the ear until that time twelve-months, while the wheat of Lower Canada produces a good crop in August following; and in corroboration was shown, on the 7th July, a crop of wheat just coming into ear of the spring wheat of the country, while one from seed, brought from Roxburghshire, Scotland, sown under a parity of circumstance, was only a few inches high, without indication of shooting into ear. This appearing inexplicable, induced me to bring home samples of fall and spring wheats, the plants from which were destroyed at Mungoswells by hares. I found, however, plants from Scotch wheat sown in the garden did not show a disposition to ear when sown in the middle of May. The effects of climate on the non-earing of wheat seems the same in Britain as in Upper Canada.

Dunville is situated on the Ouse, or Grand River, four miles from its mouth, and where the feeder of the Welland canal branches off, by means of a dam eight feet high. There are about twenty small wooden houses, a grist and saw-mill. The river is navigable to the lake, and it is said to be in contemplation to render it so as far as Brantford by means of locks. Dunville may increase in progress of time; at present it stands amidst stagnant waters, and is a perfect bullfrog and musquitto nursery.

It was my intention to have walked up the river, and across the country to Hamilton, but learning that a friend, whose dwelling I had passed, resided near the Falls of Niagara, induced me to change my route. I left Dunville at five in the morning, 0114 102 passing along the feeder and canal to Port Robinson, and from thence by Lundyslane to my friend's house.

The country at the junction of the Welland canal with Lake Erie is little cleared, and few habitations or traces of cultivation are met with on the banks or feeder. Many trees have perished, from stagnant water, on the margins of the feeder, and impart a gloomy aspect to the scene. Part of Cranberry-marsh is seen on the banks of the feeder; the soil is peat-moss, thickly covered with stunted larch-trees, ten to twenty feet high; and the water is yellow coloured; but not unpleasant to the taste. A plough, drawn by four oxen, was turning over part of the marsh bearing grass twenty inches in height, and five or six Irishmen planting it with potatoes on 6th July. The country improved on descending the canal, and the banks of the Chippeway were well cleared; the soil is dry, and some good crops of wheat and grass were seen. Cattle and sheep were in considerable numbers; the inhabitants seemed wealthy, and resided in good houses.

When near Dunville I saw, for the first time, wood-pigeons and humming-birds, also a few carrion crows and herons, similar to those of Britain, and different kinds of hawks. On the south from the canal, annual thistles and wild mustard were growing; and on the north bank of the feeder red and white French willow, the latter having afterwards been seen only in one situation.

After an agreeable visit my friends drove me to St Catherine's next day, to get the stage for Hamilton. On the way we met an Irish funeral, accompanied by waggons filled with both sexes, who, on approaching, descended, and broke immense branches from cherry-trees, loaded with ripe fruit. The owner of the trees halloed to the depredators in vain, and I felt indignant that they should composedly take the fruit, and destroy the trees. I was told it is customary for the people of the country to help themselves to peaches and other kinds of fruit in the same way.

While waiting for the arrival of the coach, I strolled into the bar-room of the hotel, which would be better named bear-room, and witnessed a group deserving the pencil of Cruik-shank to immortalize them. The landlord, a little, spruce, 0115 103 talkative Yankee, was swinging in the chair, with his legs on the table; another individual was sitting with his face to the back of the chair, a third stretched at full length on the table; and one occupied two chairs. The forms were adorned in a similar manner, and there was only one person sitting in an upright position by the wall, fast asleep, in a state of intoxication. The subject of discussion was a riot on the 4th July, the anniversary of North American independence. Some boys of the village were innocently firing guns in the morning in rear of the hotel, with which they had no connexion. The landlord being a Yankee, the firing was considered insulting to the British government: a multitude assembled, broke the windows, and attempted to set fire to the hotel. The mob was said to have been headed by a justice of the peace. My friend, who drove me to St Catherine's, said a travelling trunk had been found open in a wood a short time ago, in the Niagara district, containing a few articles marked with initials. The owner was supposed to have been robbed and murdered, yet the circumstance had passed unnoticed.

The stage arrived with one passenger, tipsy, who placed his head on one side of the coach, with his feet out at the opposite one, and snored loudly. Next stage the driver was intoxicated, and I began to ruminate on the possibility of the horses participating in the common vice.

I reached Hamilton at one in the morning, and after a few hours' sleep, took my friends out of bed in another hotel. At separating on the banks of the Welland canal they despaired of getting a conveyance to Port Robinson, and accepted the offer of a farmer to accompany him to his house on the Chippeway in the evening, and be taken in his waggon next day to Hamilton. They were much pleased with the farmer and the country which they travelled through.

On learning that a relation, who left Britain in March, was residing in the neighbourhood, a waggon was obtained, in which we rode out to breakfast. The waggons of America are light, uncovered, four-wheeled carriages, used for carrying goods or human beings, and almost the only vehicle in the country. We passed the Albion mills, situated in a romantic glen, where a rock was pointed out, over which a young woman 0116 104 threw herself some years before. Being deserted by a lover, her mind gave way under the shock her feelings sustained, and the spot where she sought relief from her sufferings will long remain associated with human frailty, and the perfidy of man. The family with which my relative resided were about to sit down to breakfast, and I tasted, for the first time, mash, or Indian corn meal porridge. Mr C—had only been ten days on his farm, having judiciously purchased a moderate extent, including live stock and growing crops. He converted what had been erected for a barn into a tolerable dwelling-house; and, with sobriety and industry, will have little difficulty in bringing up his family.

A gentleman of Hamilton, to whom I had a letter of introduction, remarked, in course of conversation, he was a Whig at one time, and had lately changed and opposed the mob, as there was no end to innovation. I replied, most people do so after sharing the pickings of Tory governments, not being aware at the time that he himself had lately obtained a government situation worth L.300 a-year. A feeling of toryism pervaded most people in the Canadas I came in contact with, more especially those lately arrived from Britain. Whig and Radical in the mother country, after becoming possessed of a few acres of forest in Canada, seem to consider themselves part of the aristocracy, and speak with horror of the people and liberality. Politicians are too seldom influenced by patriotism and philanthropy; changing opinions as they do garments, according to fashion and interest.

Hamilton is situated within half a mile of Lake Ontario, and at a short distance from an elevated ridge passing round the head of the lake. The houses are chiefly of wood, forming a broad street, resembling some of the villages of the States. It is in the midst of a beautiful country, and forms one of the cleanest and most desirable places of residence in Canada.

From Hamilton we proceeded to York at 10 P.M. by the mail stage, the evening being cold with bright moonshine, and the passengers walking up and down hills in crossing several creeks to ease the horses. When objects became visible by return of day, the country seemed partially and recently cleared, and the inhabitants far from wealthy. The soil clay 0117 105 and sand, the former yielding good wheat and grass; the latter prevailed on approaching York, where we took up our residence at the Ontario house.

York is situated on Lake Ontario, and is the seat of government of the province from which it derives its chief importance. Steam-boats arrive and depart almost hourly, and the inhabitants amount to about 8000. The progress of American cities in newly settled districts seems to be uniform;—at first mean wooden houses, which, as wealth increases, gradually give way to better ones of the same material, and ultimately to those of brick or stone,—clay for making the former being almost everywhere to be had. The houses of the principal streets of York are passing from wood to brick, and in no place, during my tour, did I see more brick erections going forward.

CHAPTER XIV.

Excursion to Lake Simcoe—Hope—David Willson—Meeting-house—Tenets of the Children of Peace—Northumberland Farmer—Soil—Notices—Excursion to Niagara—Scenery of Lake Ontario—Return to York.

Next day my friend D—and I set out for Lake Simcoe by the Newmarket stage, passing along a road called Younge street, a small part of which was Macadamized, in the vicinity of York. At Richmond hill, our dinner consisted of roast beef alone, so tough that my friend remarked the animal must have died in the yoke from distress. Human teeth could make little impression on it, and I satisfied hunger with bad bread and water, thankful that keenness of appetite exceeded my nicety of palate. At Newmarket we were disappointed at learning the steam-boat, passing round Lake Simcoe once a-week, had left Holland-landing shortly before our arrival, and there was no other possible mode of conveyance; I therefore committed letters to people residing on the margin of the lake to the post-office.

In the morning we were conveyed in a waggon round the neighbourhood of Newmarket, our first stage being the village of Hope, known also by the name of Davidstown, the residence of a religious sect called the “Children of Peace,” founded by David Willson. It is upwards of four miles from Newmarket, and consists of sixty or seventy houses scattered up and down. Not finding Mr Willson at his house, where we saw his wife, a thin yellow sickly looking person, we proceeded to the counting-room, a fanciful building, which was open, and no one within. Mr Willson being pointed out on the street, I introduced myself as a stranger anxious to see his place of worship, to which he dryly assented. He asked if I belonged to government, and on learning the object 0119 107 of my tour, and place of residence, two men who accompanied him enquired anxiously about Scotland, and the state of the working classes there. On entering the building we took off our hats, placing them on a table, and were told we might walk round the house.

The building is of wood, painted white externally, seventy feet high, and consists of three stories. The first is sixty feet square, with a door in the centre of each side, and three large windows on each side of the door. On two sides there is a representation of the setting sun, and the word “Armageddon” inscribed below. The second story is twenty-seven feet square, with three windows on each side; and the third story nine feet square, with one window on each side. The corners of each of the stories are terminated by square lanterns, with gilded mountings, and the termination of the building is a gilded ball of considerable size. The interior was filled with wooden chairs placed round sixteen pillars, in the centre of which is a square cabinet of black walnut, with a door and windows on each side. There was a table in the centre of the cabinet covered with black velvet, hung with crimson merino and fringe, on which was deposited a Bible. On the four centre pillars were painted the words “Faith, Hope, Charity, and Love;” and on the twelve others, I believe, the names of the Apostles. The centre pillars seemed to support the second story, and at the foot of each was a table covered with green cloth. The house was without ornament, being painted fawn, green, and white, and had not a pulpit or place for addressing an audience. It is occupied only once in a month for collecting charity, contains 2952 panes of glass, and is lighted once a-year with 116 candles.

There was a cold suspicious reserve in Mr Willson's manner, which prevented me at first engaging him in conversation. After fruitless attempts I remarked the temple was a handsome building, and he muttered in satirical sounds, “we did not wish to raise a temple, it is only a meeting-house.” I said the interior of the building was tastefully finished, and asked if the design was his own,—when he repulsively replied, “Did you ever see one like it?” On answering in the negative, he said, with a great deal of self-complacency, “That is the work of the mind.” I had now a key to his good graces, 0120 108 which was used, and he conversed freely on a variety of subjects. I had a publication in my pocket, entitled “Canada as it is,” wherein he was mentioned; and on reading the particulars, he emphatically said, “Part is true—but three-fourths are lies.” From seeing Mr Owen's name in the book, he said he had his writings, and asked how he got on in Scotland. I stated shortly his late career, and he seemed pleased at hearing of the breaking up of New Harmony.

David Willson seems about 65 years of age, and is a middle sized, square built man, wearing his hair over his forehead, and squints considerably. He reminded me of my early friend and preceptor, Edward Irving, but the association, in all probability, arose more from semblance of character than of feature. He was dressed in a short brown cloth jacket, white linen trowsers, with a straw hat, all perhaps home-made. Originally from the State of New York, he had resided thirty years in this country. The number of his followers is unknown, but all offering themselves in sincerity are accepted, as he dislikes sectarianism, and has no written creed. He seems to act on Quaker principles, assisting the flock with money and advice. The produce is sent to York market weekly in common, yet individuals are left to guide themselves. There is a school for teaching young women to be industrious, whether they join the sect or not. Most people in the neigbbourhood say the “Children of Peace” are good people, but scandal has been busy with their leader.

On leaving Mr Willson he presented me with a small tract, which may be regarded as the tenets of the family, to the following effect.

“ Matthew, Chapter xxv. Verse 34.

“ Then shall the King say unto them on his right hand, Come, ye blessed of my Father, inherit the kingdom prepared for you from the foundation of the world; for I was an hungered, and ye gave me meat; I was thirsty, and ye gave me drink; I was a stranger, and ye took me in; naked, and ye clothed me. ”

“I make use of this text to explain the purposes of a building erected at the small village of Hope, in the county 0121 109 of York, and province of Upper Canada.—We who are distinguished from other worshippers, of our country, by the name of Peace, which name we have given to our place of worship, here insert singular purposes, not generally known to our friends abroad; we esteem all such who are not our enemies; these latter, in a literal sense, cannot be our brethren or our friends.

“The world is in a singular system to us, as we can be to them; that is, that they are in a state of servitude to a set of Christian priests, since Christ came to liberate the captives. The objector may say, they are in no servitude on the classical plan, but what is voluntary. I answer, a child should be directed in his choice, and a disciple taught to pray. We confess the people are directed in their choice, and invited to be baptized, join society, and partake of the holy ordinances. If we may give the ancient names to the present apostles, Peter saith come, for this is the way, and I can prove it by scripture; Paul saith come, for I can condemn the very creed that Peter approves, and justify mine own to an extreme. Now, we are of the mind to leave the creeds of the Christian Apostles of this age (of which they have no scant number) and take into a simple way, in which there can be no dispute, and which, we think, will outwit the priests of the Christian church to condemn. We take the words of Christ our Saviour for truth, but to believe in all the contradictions of the age, is to us impossible. Priests quarrel now for titles; the printers print them, and sell them to the world, and make barter of priests' disputes; and the clashing of creeds has become a popular trade, and brings in a considerable wealth to the craftsmen that have set up selling these tales from their refined presses, which makes religious disputes and new occurrences subjects of detail.

“We publish these lines, and refuse for a considerable time to publish any more. We give them gratis, because the Lord hath given to us; not that which is the form of others, but of our own that we may rejoice in his favours, and envy not. Our form or ceremony is not in contradiction to any religious creed, and will therefore admit of no dispute; and with us, we intend that religious arguments shall come to a close.

0122 110

“The Son of God hath plainly shown us how we shall gain admittance to the blessed purposes of the creation, for this is the kingdom prepared from the foundation of the world.

“We have built a house for the purpose of offering to God Israelite fashion; we purpose to commence the last Saturday in October, at twelve o'clock, and continue to offer to God for the purposes contained in the text, once in the month throughout the year, and so on successively until the year we die, leaving this example and precept to our children always; this we perform without the direction of a priest, or any officer in the church, for we are brethren.

“Then shall the King say unto them on his right hand, Come, ye blessed of my Father, inherit the kingdom prepared for you from the foundation of the world. Then he begins to justify, showing cause of mercy and of favour; (and when the harvest is ripe, and the wheat shall be gathered, and the tares burned;) I was hungry and ye gave me meat; here is the power and glory of religion, here teaching comes to an end. Can a priest preach to a man, when his heart is to do the deeds justified of God? As a doctor to a man in good health, so is a literal teacher to these. I was thirsty and ye gave me drink; various favours continue from the human mind, throughout all the excellent deeds contained in the text; the whole amount is this; Loving God, and the salvation of the world. (We have no written creed, and therefore we have no image to quarrel about, or literal rule to argue for, we are against nobody, but for all.) The answer of these souls shall be this, When saw we thee an hungered, and fed thee; or thirsty, and gave thee drink? When saw we thee a stranger, and took thee in; or naked, and clothed thee? Or when saw we thee sick, or in prison, and came unto thee? And the King shall answer and say unto them, Verily I say unto you, inasmuch as ye have done it unto one of the least of these my brethren, ye have done it unto me.

“I now leave the text, and turn to the practice of life, to show cause for a change of system; and we are required to give a reason for the hope that we possess. The priests are as despotic in their several congregations, as the potentates 0123 111 of the age; not all, I should say. I will say that all are above their brethren, and press subordination to their written creed, or line of doctrine. If a stranger comes to him of another creed, will he take him in as himself, or one of his religious kinsfolk? No; like the Almighty setting bounds to the sea, hereunto thou mayest come, but here thy freedom and thy liberty shall be stayed. As for me, I am numbered with the impostors, and am so contented with the name, I forgive all my accusers; but tell them how they use their creed, brethren, who can equally prove themselves as right as they are. How do we of the latter named class use each other? I confess upon an equal plan. You sell each other's failings for money, through the means of the press, and electioneering converts by public arguments, and send them round sea and land to proselyte the world. And what are they when they are gained? We will impartially own the good with the evil. It puts away some rough and profane language, and some extreme immorality, a work glorious in its place. Do we not teach them to pray? To an extreme, but not how to receive. Do we not teach them the way to embrace society? Yes, a hundred ways. Christ said, I am the way, and that way through preaching is perhaps divided into a hundred parts; the number of sects in the Christian name, I know not; but I know that priestcraft hath done this, and with us it is coming to an end. It is not the one way, Christ the hope of glory, that hath divided the whole world, and produced vain argument to such an unlimited degree as it is now extended, from priest, pulpit, and press, and it is chiefly sold to the poor inhabitants of the world. And some extol themselves to be of high value, for they take shameful sums for doctrine, and the divines are more extravagant than the apothecaries. But a man cannot have soul or body mended now, but at dear cost. In the days of Israel, productions of this kind were cheaper, in the days of Christ, without money or price; a happy day for poor souls when Christ preached the gospel to the poor, and healed the sick without cost. The text suffers no man to go in distress, and binds us to use lawyers, doctors, and priests well; when we see them hungry 0124 112 give them meat; if thirsty, drink; if naked, clothing; if they are in a strange place, show friendship, take them in, they are our brethren; if they are sick or imprisoned, go to them, they cannot come to us; and as we use this part of the creation, so do by all other classes, for they are our brethren; if we do it to the least of these that hope for salvation in Christ, we do it unto him, for this hope is the gift of God; and him that practises, doeth the will of God, the same is my mother, my sister, and my brother. Do the sects use each other as brethren, or doth not the priest use the common people, in many instances, as his footstool? Amongst the liberal kind, they only take the liberty of sect abusing sect, and priests liberally quarrelling with each other, which hath been operating in penmanship, ever since the dark ages of the world, that succeeded the apostles. Can you tell me, contending priests, how many quarrels will make a millennium? If you cannot, quarrel no more; for common people are laughing at such barter as this; selling priests' quarrels at the printer's office; dividing the world into unnumbered parts; and by example and precept, inviting divided proselytes to follow you; this is the practice of sects. But there is a practice between the priest and his brethren I think worthy of note, for the information of those more ignorant than ourselves in our home capacity, if it is possible that any such there be.

“The priest gets on a stool or pulpit, and preaches over what is already spoken, which is well done, and cannot be bettered. The potters prepare men for this purpose, take them in, passive as clay, and make of them what they will. It is far from me to speak against learned men; but rather note a little of the principle by which education is used. Literal education is no distinguishing mark of an apostle, for or against the service of God. Why, then, are learned men so highly extolled above their brethren, and sold at the highest price at market, like the best beef? The son of God equalizes, and owns all equally his brethren, that are for God and his righteousness. But some classes are taught by these self-thinking superior qualities, that an unlearned man should not be heard; if he comes to their house, the sentence is this, Be off with the 0125 113 goats, on the left hand; ye are fit for nothing, but to be convicted for ignorance; but ourselves for learning and office, are worthy of thousands a-year for preaching scripture creeds to the people. Poor people! little is obtained for your money, for you are not taught that equalization is man's right, and that the poor are the heirs of the tribute in a Christian Church. Christ united Jew and Samaritan, and remnants of every kind to himself, and gave them the name of brethren; he is the pillar of a glorious Millennium. And when priestcraft is fulfilled, and God hath said it shall come no farther, it will come to pass. The priest is heir of the big sum—other church officers of less, whether according to their righteousness, what they do, or what proportion of learning it takes to fulfil their respective offices, I do not know; but this I know, the high priest first puts his head in the purse, for he is a general of an army, and holds subordinate titles under him, like military order, not equalizing his brother with himself, but a step lower on the righteous stairs that reach from earth to heaven (like Jacob's ladder), he holds the chief power of putting in and putting out of office—of calling one a sheep, and another a goat—taking in and casting out of the church. This last prerogative descends quite down to the foot of the stairs, and they have got the world divided indeed; and one priest will call his neighbour's sheep goats, and keep them on his left hand, because his creed is not written in their foreheads. But there is another dark class called sinners, and they are not fit for any body's building materials, and have no mark upon them but the black mark, unworthy or uninformed. I belong to these, and I am resolved never to wear a priest's creed on my forehead; for if I do, I am sure I will despise my neighbour or brother, and will not account him equal with myself. I am on the goat side of the question—the priests have put me there; but I mean to prove that such judges as ours may be in error, for these that some call goats, others call sheep. This judgment cannot be correct, and wants amendment. Christ hath passed the sentence, and it needs no alteration, and the priests need not preach any more about the matter.

“If men are generous, hospitable, and kind to all people H 0126 114 in necessity, the Son of God hath justified them; he hath taken away their selfish and proud heart, and given them a generous one, equally wishing salvation to all the world, dividing their crumbs equally to those that stand in need. This is the glory of God, and power of religion. Where is the priest's office here? The Son of God saw it would come to an end, when the hearers were preached or converted into the practice of the text.

“We have built a house to sacrifice to God, feed the hungry, and clothe the naked. Any stranger may come in and sacrifice with us, without giving us money or price. It is for the various purposes of God's glory, the end of doctrine, and the perfection of the world. We are not perfect; but the system adopted by us is justified of God in Scripture, and draws the soul near unto God and Christ. It is beyond all creeds and sectarian plans, and is with us the end of craft. We lament the divisions of the world, and the pride of the people, the superiority professed by priests, and the tribute paid to them. Therefore, in adopting this plan, we expect to employ them no more.

“ David Willson.

“We now commence a building of a different structure, and for a different purpose from the other. We hold that doctrine is good for the soul, as the physician is for the sick; but the above-written purpose is the end, when the soul is restored from selfish delights and purposes, and prefers the will of God before his own, he is as the patient healed. But this doth not constitute him to be an idle creature the rest of his days. What shall he do? Do as the sick man healed of God; devote his strength to praise, vocal and instrumental, that the harp of David, and the hymn sung by the apostles, may be united together. He shall not be idle with his hands, nor still with his feet; he shall not be redeemed from hearing the widow cry, or her offspring mourn; his eyes shall not be closed from seeing the hungry naked soul; he will take his burden upon him, and lighten his grief; he shall till the field, or improve the mechanic's shop, and the widow and the fatherless shall rejoice in the works of his hands; and his soul shall 0127 115 rejoice before the Lord, because he shall dwell with Christ; for he hath said unto this description of people, Come, ye are blessed of God. This is riches indeed, of which we have reason to believe that very few high-priests enjoy; for they bear away the widow's crumbs, and deprive their offspring of a garment. They are so greedy and selfish, the world mourns under the burden of these practices, and the very earth groans for relief.

“As for the purpose of our contemplated building, it is to prepare the heart for such a mansion as we have already. And as for our public friend, he is growing old, and seems hastily preparing to die, and he has enabled us in the hand of God to see as we saw not, and to liberate our hands from priests' wages, lawyers' fees, and the judge's sentence at court. He will give way for nothing but civil power; to such we esteem him as a true subject, and not of the alien kind. Church matters with him are voluntary; he is bound to none, and refuses the control of creed or priest in the service of God. We rejoice in his labours; they make glad the heart for the exhibiting of such liberal and generous doctrines as hath so far liberated our hands and feet from a kind of veiled Christian slavery. We build a house where we intend they may be handed down after his death to our children, and the succeeding ages of the world. We covet craftsmen no more. Our adviser prefers his brethren before himself, and will not enter the peaceable mansion with us where we sacrifice to God. He saith he hath sacrificed his own interest, and received the liberal abuse of the sects, and gave up his family to provide for themselves. He tells us that the priest's office is below ours, and that he, by appointment, is not worthy of that title that is justified of God; for you observe in the text, that a priest is not set above his fellows—that justification belongeth to brethren, those that love God and the salvation of the world. We cannot persuade his feet to enter there. He saith his eyes are forbidden to see the quiet place, but his children and his grandchildren may see it after him. He hath given us exact orders to perform by, and put a new song in our lips. We esteem him as a brother indeed, but he is not always used as such amongst us, but that amounts to our shame, and 0128 116 not his. His works, we trust, through the blessing of God, will speak for him for ever.

“We purpose not to open our present building but once in a month, commencing the last Saturday in October, and so on in succession, as time and God may permit. We refuse to open to every visitor. We are not indebted to the public for money, nor Parliament for ground; and a little dust on the floor from the feet, and a dry compliment for turning the key, will not pay the cost of leaving our labour—the work of our hands are for better purposes than these. If far distant strangers should come unto us, we may open unto them, and all our neighbours and friends once in a month. We think ourselves done with the sectarian plan of worship—rather the principle than the plan. We think that no priest can preach us to a better end than the purposes of our present house, and that no doctrine can lead us to better purposes than these. Therefore, we embrace our own, and set the dividing plan, of converting into a hundred divisions, free, and give this testimony to the world, that if our testimony in public doctrines is unworthy, not to suffer them into your houses, for we do not covet that yours should be offered unto us.

“Signed on behalf of the brethren by

“ Murdoch M'Leod.

“ John Doan.

“ Ebenezer Doan. ”

After perusing such a production, many will wonder at the number and prosperity of David Willson's flock, and the influence he has attained, which results from shrewdness, and not genius.

On leaving Hope, we proceeded north to Lake Simcoe, and returned by another road to Newmarket, being engaged to dine in the neighbourhood with Mr H—, who once farmed in the north of England, and has been several years in his present farm, which he rents. He manages 120 acres of cleared land, free from stumps, and none of it in pasturage, with two horses and two oxen. The potatoes and turnips were drilled, and howed in good style. Cattle and sheep are fatted, and, in common with those in almost all parts of America, 0129 117 get salt once a-week. Labourers can be had at all times, getting $10 a-month in summer—$5 in winter. Thrashing with the flail, one-ninth of the quantity; carriage, or teaming, from Newmarket to York, 7½d., Halifax currency, per bushel.

Timber around Newmarket is of the largest size, and the expense of obtaining the first wheat crop was stated by Mr H—thus—

Purchase money of wood land, $3

Under bushing and chopping, 8

Logging, burning, and fencing, 8

Seed and harrowing, 3

Carting and harvesting, 2

Thrashing and teaming, 5

$29

Produce estimated at 25 bushels, at $1=$25

The country from York to Lake Simcoe is, generally, well cleared and settled, the soil being chiefly loam, carrying excellent wheat crops, and seems fitted for almost any kind of husbandry. It is difficult to classify the soil around New-market, which seemed well fitted for turnip growing, and such as would be considered of too soft a texture in the place of my nativity, yet it was producing wheat crops, with stiff straw and large ears. The farm-houses seem comfortable, and the stumps are chiefly removed. The surface is undulating, and free from stagnant water.

For the first time, we saw small flocks of wood-pigeons, collected after the breeding season, and people shooting them.

The bar-room of the Newmarket hotel was filled with drunkards of the lowest class, part of them in rags, and swearing in a disgusting manner. Before the arrival of the coach which carried us to York, we examined a large flour mill, and many samples of wheat it contained, not all of fine quality, and partly much sprouted. There were handsome iron ploughs, made by George Gray, Uddingstone, Ayrshire, Scotland, selling at $30, while wooden ones, of Canadian make, were $18. I observed a lime kiln, formed in a bank of clay, by excavation, without building materials, and which seemed to have been used for some time.

Our luggage, which Mr Chrystler, the landlord of the 0130 118 Pavilion house at Niagara falls, assured us had been despatched for York before we left his house on the 3d July, had not reached its destination, and not having received an answer to a letter written to him on the subject, I resolved to enquire personally. Next morning I got on board the steam-boat, King William the Fourth, for Niagara.

The scenery, when sailing up Lake Ontario, is uninteresting. Dark coloured monotonous forests fringe the low shore, on which, at different intervals, are the meanest habitations of civilized men; and now and then a puny vessel, with dirty sails, appears in view. On approaching Hamilton, the landscape is more varied from the heights and little lake, twelve miles in circumference, on which the village is situated, and divided from the main lake by a stripe of land eighty yards wide, through which there is a canal lined with wood. When going through the canal, the rope passing from the helm to the wheel in the forecastle, where the pilot of all American steamers takes his station, gave way, and the vessel narrowly escaped destruction. Six hours were spent in landing and shipping merchandise at Hamilton on Sunday. Many of the steerage passengers were tipsy, and some quarrelling. I walked into the woods to escape the scene. The stillness of a Scotch Sabbath is better appreciated after sojourning in a foreign land.

The steamer reached Niagara at ten o'clock. At four next morning I proceeded in an extra to the falls, which were visited before breakfast. Mr Chrystler assured me the luggage had been despatched as stated at the time; and on my return I discovered it in the lobby of a hotel at the village of Niagara, where it had arrived from the Pavilion house the night before. At noon I got on board the daily steamer for York. The day was so cold that people clothed themselves in great-coats in crossing the lake, and many became sick from the agitation of the waters.

On 14th July I found some wheat crops near Niagara almost ripe, the cherry-trees stript of fruit, and the graceful blossom of the sweet chestnut fading.

CHAPTER XV.

Journey from York to Coburg—Mail Waggon—Mr Somerville—Agricultural Notices—Clay Kneading—Female Helps seating themselves at Table—Port Hope—Coburg—Agricultural Notices—Fast Eating—Excursion to Peterborough—School-fellow—Peterborough—Rice Lake—Notices of Nature and Agriculture—Settlers—High Price of Land—Injudicious Settlement—Bay of Quinte—Indian Settlement—Canada Thistle—Kingston—Storekeepers and Store-pay—Grasshoppers—Lake of the Thousand Isles—River St Lawrence.

My friend D—and I left York at 5 P.M., on 16th July, by the Kingston mail, an open waggon, drawn by two horses, and reached Windsor, a distance of twenty-nine miles, at two in the morning. The roads were worse than any yet travelled on, and a driver stopped two hours at a hotel notwithstanding our anxiety to get him away.

The soil, for ten miles down the margin of the lake, is poor sand, covered with pines, until passing some ridges, where there are good farms; here night shut out the face of nature.

From Windsor, in the township of Whitby, we set out on foot, after breakfast, to visit Mr W—, to whom we had a letter, and found him suffering under ague at Mr Somerville's. I was anxious to see Mr Somerville, from having heard his letter, which appeared sometime before in the Edinburgh Quarterly Journal of Agriculture , censured by my lately-imported countrymen, and his establishment and prospects ridiculed. He received us kindly, and after walking over the farm, we returned in time for an early dinner.

On entering the house it was necessary to go one by one, as the door opened so as to close up the passage leading to the kitchen, through which we entered to the sitting-room, where we dined. Both apartments were small, clean, and crowded with old-country furniture. The house was a log 0132 120 one, but a better was soon to be built. The dinner consisted of fried pork, the standard dish of the country, eggs, new potatoes, and pancakes. Homely as the fare may be considered, it has seldom been my fate to rise from table more gratified with a repast, each dish being excellent in its kind, and the entertainment seasoned with the good sense, contentment, and manly feeling, of our host. Miss Somerville, like all my countrywomen met in Canada, was active and in good spirits; but her piano had remained untouched in the corner of the room since her arrival in the country, the churn being now her favourite instrument.

Mr Somerville told me his letter was not written with a view to publication, and it appeared in the Quarterly Journal without his knowledge. Under these circumstances it would perhaps be unreasonable to hold him responsible for its contents. Not having read the letter since the time of publication, I cannot say if it is a just representation of his situation, but I can testify to the good quality of his soil, which he says no visitor ever examined minutely but myself. His pasture-grass was truly excellent; wheat and oats of medium quality; potatoes and Indian corn well cultivated, and promising crops. He had let twenty acres of forest land to clear and fence, at $12 per acre, which he says is the common cash price of the country. Labourers have difficulty in getting employment during winter; and on the morning of our arrival Mr Somerville engaged a first-rate hand for his aguish friend at $80 per annum, and ordinary people may be had for $72; wages paid in cash. Boys fit for farm work, and women servants, get $4 a-month. Farms in the township, two-thirds cleared, with suitable buildings, may be had for $12 cash, and $16 credit. Bricks are $5 per thousand.

The soil of Whitby is rich, and not much inferior to that around Newmarket, being free loam, and occasionally approaching to sand. The vegetable mould in Mr Somerville's forest was five inches deep.

Immediately after dinner we joined a waggon, by appointment, on the Coburg road, and by which we travelled to the Darlington hotel in the village of Bowmanville, passing over 0133 121 a poor sandy soil, of which the township of Darlington seems to consist.

On our journey we saw two oxen employed in walking round a pit, kneading clay for brick-making, which appeared cruelty, and wasteful of animal labour, the poor animals walking up to the bellies in mud, with erect tails and extended tongues. The common mode of preparing clay being with a tree drawn by a horse or ox round a pivot, the lopped branches kneading the clay. An elm-tree, twenty feet in height, was growing from the heart of one of rotten button-wood, ten feet from the ground. A plantation of hops, in Whitby, was luxuriant and healthy.

On stepping out of the waggon at Bowmanville, we walked over a farm which I had been requested to value for a friend, and we sprung a woodcock in a wheat-field, a bird that is said to breed regularly in the district. Woodpeckers, robins, and blackbirds, of the country, were devouring cherries so greedily, that a gun was fired at them to little purpose every five minutes. Two wrens were seen in Whitby similar to those of Britain.

In the United States and Canada tea and coffee are not prepared or poured out by travellers, but by the landlady or a female help. In no part of the United States did a female help, at a hotel, seat herself during meals; and I observed the practice only upon one occasion in a private house. The maid-servant at Bowmanville seated herself during tea in a corner of the room, and the like occurrence took place at Newmarket during supper. In Britain servants stand while assisting at table, and they also do so in Canada; the difference of attitude taking place when their services are not required. For my own part, I would much rather see a young waiting-maid seated, when not required, than standing perhaps painfully erect; and, in many instances, when taking tea or coffee, during my tour, I put it in the option of the helps to leave the room, which they generally did. There seems no general rule for attitude, as inferring respect. In some countries attendants almost humble themselves in the dust in presence of employers, and in others they are required to carry themselves erect.

0134 122

We left Bowmanville at seven in the morning, by the mail-stage, which had taken fourteen hours to come forty-three miles; and my friend left my only thermometer at the door of the hotel. A few miles from Port Hope our waggon was changed for a small neat coach, which we found an agreeable alteration, and soon reached Coburg.

Port Hope is prettily situated near Lake Ontario, at the mouth of a small stream, murmuring over a rocky bottom, and well calculated for propelling machinery. There is a pier, and general appearances betoken prosperity.

Coburg is also situated near Lake Ontario, and much larger and more advanced than Port Hope. It has much trade with the country across Rice Lake.

There is a considerable extent of cleared ground from Bowmanville to Port Hope; the soil poor and ill managed. Near the latter it improves, and towards Coburg are some good farm-houses and offices, around which the fields are well cultivated and fenced.

Around Coburg the vegetable mould in the woods was three inches deep, and the soil sandy loam. The greater part of the soil we have seen in America is of soft texture, and easily laboured. Here we learned plough irons are only repaired twice a-year. At Newmarket a plough was pointed out, the irons of which had not been at the smithy since the previous October, and were still in tolerable order. Mildew was seen on wheat at Bowmanville and Coburg. A limekiln was preparing building-lime on the shores of the lake, and stones of the same rock were quarried for building.

We found the young men swallowing their food at the table of the hotel as fast as those of Albany did. It is almost a universal practice in the States and Canada to board men, such as clerks and shopmen, in hotels. A large bell or horn is sounded half an hour before meals, and again when served up. Hence the rush to table, and expeditious eating.

Next morning we set out in a waggon for Sully on Rice Lake, a steamer carrying us across the lake and up the river Otanabee to Peterborough, the head of navigation, where we found accommodation at Macfadden's hotel.

When about to sit down to breakfast, I was introduced to 0135 123 Colonel B—, a Scotchman, who, when seated at table, stated he was from East Lothian. Knowing almost every individual in the district, I said in a tone of surprise, “Are you serious?” and scanned his features very closely. Answering in the affirmative, I asked if his name was Robert, if he had a brother, and immediately introduced myself as a, class-fellow at the school of Haddington in 1806, not having since met or perhaps heard of each other. We talked over old stories, and I was delighted to find my friend possessed of one of the neatest and most comfortable cottages in the finest situation in Peterborough.

Peterborough is on the Otanabee, and likely to become a place of some importance. At present there are a number of mean houses scattered over a considerable extent of surface, and the population is stated at 1000 souls, although I would not have rated them near so high. It is said to contain a number of military and naval half-pay officers of Britain, and the society to be the most polished and aristocratic in Canada.

In the forenoon we walked up the left bank of the river to visit Mr T—, whom we met by the way, accompanied by his lady, who continued her journey on horseback, and he returned with us. In the evening we walked up the river side, passing an excellent mill-site, on which grist and saw-mills were being erected, until we reached a string of lakes, through which the Otanabee flows. The road up the banks of the river was just opening, the trees had not been felled the length of Mr T—'s, and in our evening walk some parts of the tract could only be crossed by leaping, like squirrels, from trunk to trunk of fallen trees. On one occasion my friend D—'s feet slipped, and he fell on his face, with both arms fixed in the mud.

We left Peterborough for Coburg on 22d July, by way of Rice Lake, and remarked that two-thirds of the people seen on the road were tipsy. This was a painful sight, which the heat of the weather did not soften or justify.

Rice Lake takes its name from the quantity of rice floating on its waters; it is surrounded by gentle rising banks, and contains several small islands. The lake is formed by the waters of the Otanabee, which, from the lake to within a short distance 0136 124 of Peterborough, forms an uninteresting sail, being a dense forest on both sides, with three or four log-huts in the course of sixteen miles. Above the rapids, at Peterborough, the river runs with considerable impetuosity, the banks become diversified, in size equalling the largest river in Britain, and its water-power, if properly developed, of considerable magnitude.

The surface, from Coburg to Rice Lake, is highly undulating, and, if cleared, would perhaps be picturesque; the soil gradually falling off, becoming poor sand, with timber of inferior size, and all kinds of crops bad. For miles, before reaching the lake, the road leads through thinly scattered oak trees, called plaines, or oak openings, covered with stunted underwood, with external indications of extreme sterility; but farther experience enables me to say, the appearance of the plaines is not owing to quality of soil, but to the herbage being annually burned.

To the west of the Otanabee, and on the banks of the lake, is a considerable clearance formed by government for the Massagur tribe of Indians, and called Indian Village, adjoining which is the residence of Captain Anderson, prettily situated.

The soil of the small clearances on the Otanabee, above Peterborough is not of very fine quality, and mingled with large stones, but seemed to improve on receding from the river. On cleared ground there was scarcely a plant of clover, or even of grass, with the exception of timothy, the seed of which had been sown. At the time of visiting this district I was inclined to think unfavourably of the soil from the want of clovers and grasses, but extended observation convinced me this circumstance had no connexion with the quality of soil, and would not operate unfavourably against the prosperity of these plants when their seeds are sown.

Near the banks of the Otanabee, a dark-coloured caterpillar had devoured some fields of timothy grass, with exception of the culms, and the insect had extended its ravages partially to Indian corn and wheat, but red clover was untouched, growing amongst timothy which had been entirely consumed. I could learn nothing of its natural history; but its attacks 0137 125 were said to have been felt in 1825; and accounts from distant parts of the north spoke of its attacks this year as highly destructive.

While delayed at Sully I strolled into the forest, and, on the margin of Rice Lake, found a solitary plant of red clover, having about fifty flower-stalks from one root, measuring five feet in height, and neither soil or situation seemed favourable to luxuriance. There were three heads faded, which I collected, and afterwards lost to my regret. On the plains there were many flowering plants and grasses, and I remarked triticum repens , the thick-rooted couch-grass of Britain, which is found over many parts of Canada. Gooseberries covered with strong prickles, which soften as the fruit ripens; and black currants, with prickly and unprickly fruit, were growing in the woods; and hazel loaded with nuts on open places.

Wages of farm-labourers in the neighbourhood of Peterborough were stated at $10 per month by the year, and at $12 in part of summer. A respectable settler in Smithstown told me he had offered $115 in cash per annum, to be paid when a crop was reaped from the labour. In all cases produce or store pay seems to be given, unless by special agreement to the contrary. Cash is a scarce commodity, and could not be obtained for wheat at the present time.

In course of my short excursion I had seen some bush life of individuals formerly moving in a higher grade than those on the Welland canal. The general impression was not favourable, and after farther experience of such life, many things appeared exceptionable. In particular, ardent spirits were too frequently used, mingled it is true with water, which perhaps did not mitigate their effects. A cask of spirits, with a crane, often stood in the corner of the room, and Mr D—r informed me Mr—had a bee a few weeks before, which lasted two days, and at which eighty gallons of spirits were consumed.

The Newcastle district has been a fashionable place of settlement of late years, more especially around Peterborough; and I was soon aware of the means taken to induce people to settle in it. Before leaving Scotland I had seen a catalogue 0138 126 of a most extensive sale of land purporting to take place in course of summer, and which contained a chart of the district in which the lands lay. The chart formed our only map, and was studded with villages, &c. In particular, Gambletown was marked on the chart with numerous houses, as if a place of considerable size; and on sailing up the Otanabee, on which it is situated, I expected a thriving village; but on stopping to obtain a supply of firewood, what was my disappointment at only finding two log-huts, one of which was unoccupied! Accounts of the value of land appear exaggerated. Uncleared forest land had, it was said, been sold at some distance from Peterborough at $8 per acre, and some people wished me to believe all land bore a relative value. A gentleman estimated his property at $20 per acre, while I was offered the adjoining back lot of better soil at $6, and I have no doubt could have got it for $4 cash. A property has been said to yield annually L.500, which is very near the sum I valued it at in perpetuity after examination.

On the morning of the 23d we left Coburg for Carrying-place on the bay of Quinte, which we reached before dusk, having passed over an undulating surface, the soil of which, with exception of part near Carrying-place, was sandy and stony. Crops of all kinds inferior. A field of rye had been cradled, and one of wheat was sufficiently matured for the operation. This line of road illustrated the evils arising from want of knowledge of soils in new settlers. Much of the soil was drift sand, and would not repay the expenses of cultivation, cheap as those in Canada are. Several farms seemed to have been deserted after having been some years occupied; and unacquaintance with land, and other parts of the American continent, can alone account for human beings having wasted their labour in clearing such unfruitful soil.

Next morning we left Carrying-place at four for Kingston, where we arrived at nine P.M., having passed Trent, Belville, Sophiaburgh, Hallowell, and Bath.

The bay of Quinte is a branch of Lake Ontario, and a sail on its waters perhaps imparts as much pleasure as any in Canada. Numberless islands, bays, and promontories of every size, shape, and aspect, together with ever-varying 0139 127 shades of vegetation, delight the eye. In many places the margins are low, but for miles, on both sides of Hallowell, the banks are of considerable height, well clothed with wood and adorned with houses. In the distance was an island with a considerable sized Indian village, said to contain 600 souls. The white-washed cots had a fine effect in passing down the bay, while the inhabitants fishing in their fragile canoes, and gliding to and fro on the unruffled waters, added interest to the scene. On the mainland, opposite to the island, is an Indian reserve, on which is a church, lonely situated near the margin of the bay, and very unlike the worshipping places of more civilized men. But the half-naked Indian, in recesses of the forest, may offer homage to the Author of the Universe, with as much sincerity and hope of acceptance, as the purple-clad in the glittering temples of the city.

The shores of the bay of Quinte have long been settled, and a considerable extent of surface freed of wood. Wheat appeared nearly ripe, and in a few instances cradling had commenced. Crops were inferior and crowded with thistles, apparently the common perennial way-thistle of Britain. My friend D—and I, walking on deck, remarked a field bearing a dense-looking crop with purple coloured flowers, which one pronounced clover, the other pease, but on nearer approach it was seen to be pasturage intermixed with thistles. This was an unfortunate mistake for those having some pretensions to a knowledge of practical agriculture, and perhaps the thistle-grower may esteem our discernment as lightly as we do his management. This species of thistle is known in the States by the name of the Canada thistle, and some proposals have been made in the State of New York, to legislate to prevent its increase.

Kingston is finely situated on a bay of Lake Ontario, over which there is an excellent wooden bridge, perhaps the best in America, connecting the town with the fort and naval yard. Most of the houses are of stone or brick, and the inhabitants estimated at 6000 souls. It enjoys a considerable trade, which is likely to be greatly augmented by the opening of the Rideau canal, which here enters the lake.

We examined the barracks, most substantial erections, also 0140 128 the fort and naval yard; the former is renewing with the best materials; the vessels in the docks are hastening to decay. Regarding war in every case an evil, and its engines too often misapplied, the rotting vessels excited more pleasing ideas than the rising fort.

We learned masons employed at the fort got $1 a-day, without finding or board; and in town considerably more, when store pay is given. One gentleman said he would rather give $120 store-pay than $100 cash; and a workman said he preferred $9 cash to $12 store-pay. I could not learn that employer and store-keeper unite for the purpose of plundering workmen. At present store-keepers constitute the most wealthy and powerful class in the community, landowners and workmen being generally indebted to them, hence enormous profits. The common percentage on retailing provisions at Kingston, being stated at 70 per cent, dry goods 100. Potash sells at Montreal for L.24 a-ton; the farmer at Kingston gets L.17 store-pay, equal to L.12 cash.

In the neighbourhood of Kingston grasshoppers were numerous, many of them having wings, and flying a considerable distance. This insect is numerous throughout America, and sometimes seriously injures grass crops. As cultivation extends, its numbers are likely to decrease.

Having perambulated Kingston and the surrounding country, the soil of which was inferior, with limestone everywhere protruding, we got on board a steam-boat for Prescott, where we arrived at midnight, and again sailed for Longsault in the Iroquois steamer, a light vessel with paddles in the stern, built for navigating the rapids of the St Lawrence, and which has been found to answer well. From Longsault we passed to Cornwall by a stage, and again by a steamer to Coteau-de-lac, where we got into a stage to Cascades, and by steam to Lachine, and from thence by land to Montreal.

On leaving Kingston I anticipated much pleasure in sailing through the Lake of the Thousand Isles, which forms the passage of Lake Ontario into the river St Lawrence, but the curtain of night fell before we had well entered, and the light of the moon did not render objects distinct. There was a pleasing novelty in the lake from the number of low islands like tufts 0141 129 of vegetation sleeping on the surface, and glistening with the fires of the wood-choppers. The moon's shadow in the ripple of the waters was particularly beautiful, and some hours might have been passed pleasantly on deck but for a cold, damp atmosphere.

The St Lawrence being the first river of magnitude I had sailed on, my preconceptions of its effects on the senses were quickly dispelled; the objects on its level banks being indistinct and soon lost to the eye. The associations suggested by the endless and ever-varying objects, successively and vividly impressed on the mind's eye in passing down a river in Britain, are altogether wanting. Fertility, shelter, health, and peaceful retirement, so dear to a Scottish farmer, and almost invariably the attributes of the streamlets of his country, belong not to the St Lawrence in this part of its course, where the low lying, and in many places reed-growing, margins suggest pestilence and privation. The immensity of fresh water hurrying towards the sea fills the mind with wonder.

Around Cornwall, and more particularly from Coteau-du-Lac to the Cascades, much excellent wheat was growing on clay soil formed into very narrow ridges. Other crops were indifferent, and nearly choked with perennial thistles. From Lachine to Montreal we observed many wild oats ( Avena fatua ) for the first time in America. I

CHAPTER XVI.

Excursions around Montreal—Township of Hinchinbrooke—River Chateauguay—Kinds of Houses—Bushmen and Farmers—Squatters—Price of Land—Flag Staffs—Huntingdon—Isle Bourdeaux—Face of the Country around Montreal—Farming of old Settlers—French Canadians—Laprairie—Wheat Fly—Cheap Purchase—Chambly—Cheap Education—Mistake Roads—Horse Ferry-boat—Starving Out—Mountain—Race Course—State of Agriculture around Montreal—Montreal.

In the town of Montreal and its neighbourhood reside several old friends, by whom we were kindly welcomed, and in whose company we experienced so much pleasure, that I shall ever look back on the time spent amongst them with delight. The town was soon explored, and became the centre of several excursions to the adjoining country.

On the second day after our arrival we set out for the Township of Hinchinbrooke, travelling by stage to Lachine; from thence by steam across the St Lawrence into the river Chateauguay to the head of its navigation, twelve miles from its mouth, where we got a stage to the village of Huntingdon. We dined at a hotel kept by Mrs Love, and walked up the banks of the river to the residence of Mr—, whom we met by the way. Next forenoon was spent in walking over the farm, and after dinner we visited Mr—, who arrived in the country a year ago, and who was erecting a good stone house. Early next morning, Mr—and I walked over the country, crossing the river Hinchinbrooke, passing up Oak or Mud creek, and down Trout river to the village of Huntingdon. Here we met, by appointment, a party of friends, and examined a farm which Mr—had bought a few days before. Next day we travelled by stages and steam-boat to Montreal.

During this excursion I experienced much pleasure at finding 0143 131 my friends and former neighbours possessing so many more old country comforts than the backwood settlers in Upper Canada, and all enjoying good health and spirits. This is quite an East Lothian colony; four farmers who have settled here dined with us, and there are blacksmiths, tailors, &c. &c. without number in the village. The township of Hinchinbrooke is a thriving settlement, and in point of climate perhaps the best in Lower Canada.

The river Chateauguay is of small size, its banks have long been settled by French Canadians, and for twenty miles above its navigable point is almost a continued village, the mode of French settlement being to place houses on each side of a road or street, with narrow parallel portions of land attached to each, extending a mile or two back. The farms are generally free of wood, and the banks of the river, consequently, without beauty. Towards Huntingdon there are few French settlers, and above the village the banks are wooded, and some good farms are seen. Here the Chateauguay is joined by the Hinchinbrooke, Trout river, and Oak creek, the banks of all of which are settled, and abound with good situations.

The soil on the banks of the river occupied by the French is strong clay, bearing alternately wheat and thistle pastures, with occasionally a few oats, big, peas, and potatoes. The houses are generally brick, and a few are of stone. Boys were seen playing at cricket.

For several miles below Huntingdon the soil is very inferior, but improves in the neighbourhood of the village. On the small streams above the village the soil embraces every description of clay, loam, and sand. This tract has been recently settled, chiefly by British emigrants, and when the forest is subdued, likely to become valuable. Corn crops do not occupy much extent of ground at present. Grass was in many situations excellent, red and white clover abounding without having been sown. In two instances I saw wheat crops which had been sown in autumn, and neither were good; if such a crop succeeds any where in Lower Canada, it must be in this district. The houses consist of wood, and are log, block, or frame, according to the wealth or taste of the owner. A log-house consists of rough logs or unbarked trees, piled 0144 132 above each other, dove-tailed at the corners of the walls, and the intervals betwixt the logs filled up with clay or other materials. A block-house is composed of logs squared so as to class on each other. A frame-house is sawn boards, nailed on a frame, with lath and plaster inside, and corresponds with the wood barracks in Britain. There is another description of frame-house in Upper Canada, which has slender lath on the outside, simply rough-cast with lime and gravel, like stone houses in Britain, with common lath and plaster inside. Houses have pitched roofs, covered with thin pieces of wood, called shingles, resembling and answering the purposes of slate. A shanty differs from a log-house only in wanting a pitch roof, and having bark or hollow trees in place of shingles.

During this excursion, the cause of bushmen or pioneers moving from first settlements to more remote parts of the forest, became obvious. The destruction of forest, and management of cleared land, are evidently different departments, the latter requiring more capital, and a higher degree of knowledge than pioneers generally possess; and in Canadian farming, the wood-chopper and husbandmen stand to each other in relation of mason and joiner in British house-building, the one forming a rude outline, which the other polishes, and may be instanced as illustrative of the advantages of a division of labour. In several instances I saw families of first settlers possessing a considerable extent of excellent cleared land, without the knowledge or means of rendering it productive, and they certainly would benefit themselves by disposing of their properties, and adopting another mode of life. Living almost in idleness, they cultivated, in the most negligent manner, only so much wheat and potatoes as was judged sufficient for home consumption, relying on the hay crop for procuring what necessaries they did not themselves produce, and appeared so encrusted with sloth, that they were likely only to fire a gun with the view of obtaining food, and to cut down a tree for the purpose of cooking it.

Amongst the numerous calls I made, was one on Trout river, at the house of a Yankee squatter, who was from home. Mrs C—was also a Yankee, a good-looking buxom dame, with two or three young children, and a help of small 0145 133 size. She spurned the idea of assisting her husband to cut down his wheat crop, but said she would join him in eating it—never worked in the fields herself, and her girls should not; men must work for her girls, she did not think females were made for working. In all probability she was the daughter of a wood-chopper.

Lands in the district of Hinchinbrooke are held by English tenure, and sell moderately. A friend bought 200 acres last year, with a log and frame-house, for L.270 currency. This year another bought 300 acres, with 90 cleared, for L.327 currency. The inhabitants did not appear so much addicted to ardent spirits as those of some parts in Upper Canada.

In passing up the Chateaugnay, many flag-staffs or poles were observed, which owe their origin to an old law, requiring captains of militia so to distinguish their residences. My friend Mr—, residing near the frontier line, was appointed captain of militia some years ago, and erected a pole in front of his house. In the States similar poles are used for hotel sign-posts. The Yankees not being aware of this old custom, used to call at my friend's and ask for brandy, &c. He was much annoyed by such visitors, and while deliberating one day on the mode of restraining them, a spruce fellow walked into his parlour, and asked to be shaved. The pole was instantly stretched on the ground.

The village of Huntingdon consists of 30 or 40 wood houses, with grist and saw mills; paper, and hat manufactory, and a post office. There is a school, and a church was soon to be erected.

On 2d August, Mr—and I, in his gig, friend D—, with a driver and hired calash, left Montreal, passing down the banks of the river, by Long Point to Isle Bourdeaux, situated at the confluence of the St Lawrence with the north channel of the Ottawa, which forms the Island of Montreal. Isle Bourdeaux was understood to be for sale, and is one of the most celebrated spots for situation and soil in the Lower Province. Here a place was pointed out from which clay had been dug, and burned for manure some years ago, and which failed, as in other parts of the world.

After dinner, we crossed by the ferry to the opposite side of 0146 134 the Ottawa, passing up the banks of the stream by Terre Bonne, and reached St Therese in the morning. Early next day, we examined a property for sale, and after breakfast proceeded in a northern direction twelve or fourteen miles, and returned to St Therese. Here we changed our horses for those brought with us the day before; and after crossing a branch of the Ottawa by Porteous' Bridge to the Isle of Jesus, and over a second branch of that river to the Island of Montreal, we reached our destination by six in the evening, having encountered several thunder-storms in the course of the journey.

The face of the country on the banks of the Ottawa, in the neighbourhood of Terre Bonne, St Therese, and from thence by St Rose and St Martin's, to Montreal, is truly beautiful, and the softness of the scenery is in many places heightened by the small wooded islets, encompassed by the smooth gliding branches of the Ottawa. The scenery increases in interest on approaching the mountain over which the road passes by a kind of glen, clothed with fruit and other trees. From the brow of the hill passing to the south, the majestic St Lawrence, flowing in broad expanse down Lachine rapids, bursts on the view, and the declivity of the mountain, adorned with villas, and the city of Montreal lying at the foot, with shining tin-roofed houses, giving it the appearance of a distant camp, form a scene seldom equalled in America or any other part of the world. The general aspect of the country from St Therese to Montreal, closely resembles that of some of the finest parts of England.

The soil from Montreal to St Therese, a distance of nearly forty miles, by the banks of the St Lawrence and Ottawa, is strong clay, and I do not recollect of having travelled over the like extent of continuous good wheat soil in any part of the world; but the management which it was under is wretched in the extreme, although the crops in many parts were good. Pasture and spring sown wheat succeed each other, year after year, almost unaided by manures, with one ploughing previous to wheat sowing. Clover seeds are never sown, yet cow grass and white clover everywhere abound, and often attain the utmost luxuriance. Heaps of manure 0147 135 were seen dissolving into earth on the way sides. Manure is, occasionally, deposited thickly in heaps on pastures in the early part of summer, where it remains to be spread by the cattle and pigs. When manure is applied to the potato crop, which is very limited in extent, it is spread on the surface after the crop is above ground Cattle and sheep are small, lean, miserable looking creatures, and their pastures as bare as possible. Fully one-third of the sheep are black coloured, the wool of which is useful in forming the grey cloth which almost the whole French population wear, and saves the expense and trouble of dyeing. Neither sheep nor cattle resemble any of the breeds I am acquainted with, and in all probability both are descended from those of France. The horses are small, and coarse-looking—mere ponies, though said to be active and hardy. The fences are invariably post and rail. Wild oats were particularly numerous in all crops.

The French Canadians, of the ordinary classes, almost invariably live in block-houses, with large windows, and seem ill constructed, externally and internally, for economizing heat, which the nature of the climate, and scarcity of fuel, render so desirable. They have a clean, appearance, being often white-washed with lime, and the window-boards and roofs are occasionally painted of different colours, and seldom harmonize with the house. A tree or shrub is never found in their gardens, and an orchard, except in the neighbourhood of the mountain, is almost unknown.

The wealthier French Canadians are ambitious of having stone-houses, which are very awkward erections, and so ill built, that my friend D—said the work looked as if it had been done by ploughmen between yokings.

The inhabitants are rather under-sized, broad-shouldered, and athletic-looking men, with swarthy complexions. They generally bowed to us in passing, and the boys invariably did so. The little creatures had a most grotesque appearance decked in very broad-brimmed straw hats, and a flowing shirt being their only covering.

Contemplating a tour into what are called the Eastern Townships, and which have since become the scene of operations of a new land company, I was obligingly furnished with 0148 136 instructions and letters by Mr R. A—, who had passed through them a few weeks before, and on whose attentions I had not the slightest claim. We arranged to leave Montreal by the mail stage, on the afternoon of the 5th; but receiving a call from Mr—, whom I had met with in Scotland, and who once farmed in the neighbourhood of Edinburgh, it was agreed that we should accompany him to his residence on the opposite side of the St Lawrence, and be driven in his waggon a considerable part of our route, next morning. Accordingly, we crossed to Laprairie in a steamer, at ten A.M., and proceeded on the road to St Philip's three or four miles, till we reached Mr—'s residence.

Laprairie is a small mean-looking village, inhabited almost entirely by French Canadians, and deriving its chief importance from being the entrance and depôt of farm produce from the States to Montreal, and from its inhabitants enjoying the privilege of an extensive grazing common, which was part of the Jesuits' confiscated property.

This part of the country differs from any we had yet visited inhabited by French Canadians, having many single trees interspersed over the surface, and a few on creek banks. The soil is invariably clay of the strongest texture, in bad condition, and stands much in want of draining.

In this neighbourhood I observed wheat ears exhibiting ravages of wheat-fly, and on examination found many capsules filled with shrivelled grains, or altogether empty. The maggots having left the ears and descended to the earth, I was unable to determine whether this insect is identical with the wheat-fly of Britain; but the collapsed state of the chaff presented the same appearance as the crop in East-Lothian when injured by fly, while spider-webs on the ears contained fragments of flies resembling ichneumons. I was told the French inhabitants around St Philip held meetings and processions a few days previous, for staying the plague of worms in wheat ears, and I have no doubt they were delighted with the apparent success of their measures; knowledge of the habits of the insect would, however, have taught them the futility of their attempts at so late a period of the season. The same insect caused extensive injury in 1825.

0149 137

After dinner, we walked with Mr—, to call on his neighbour, who once farmed in my native district, and whom we found engaged in hay-making. He had lately bought a farm, subject to an annuity on the lives of an old French Canadian and his wife. He was in good spirits, and had lost none of the rotundity of form carried from Scotland.

Feeling a desire to examine a bull-frog, a reptile which abounds in a pond in front of Mr—'s house, I found them large, of a dirty green colour, with a remarkably large mouth, and in formation similar to the frog of Britain.

Mr—'s farm is not of great extent, and, considering the excellency of his dwelling-house, was a cheap purchase. In an enclosure in front of the house, grew some hickory-trees, the nuts of which are held in esteem by the population. The first year of his purchase, these trees bore a great crop, while there was a failure of this nut generally; and he told me the value of his nuts actually amounted to the interest of the whole price of the estate.

Next morning, Mr—, Miss—, my friend and I, set out at five o'clock, in a four-wheeled waggon, drawn by a strong little Canadian horse, and arrived at Chambly in the midst of a thunder-storm and rain, which detained us during the day, by rendering the roads impassable. The soil in this part of the country is clay, of the most adhesive texture, and the roads being without stone, the clay became so waxy after the rain, as to remind me of bird-lime. Our horse would have had difficulty in pulling the empty waggon along the road, and I found walking on foot a very slow and arduous mode of proceeding.

The rain having abated, we walked out, after dinner, to view the village of Chambly, which is situated on the river Richlieu, in a fine bay or basin, three miles wide, and at the head of the navigation. At present there is a canal forming, to connect the waters of Lake Champlain with Chambly basin, and which is expected to be completed in course of next year. The village contains several churches and mills, and is celebrated for seminaries of education. Here young ladies are taught the French and English languages grammatically, arithmetic, writing, and drawing, for $5 a-month, or about 0150 138 21s. sterling, finding themselves with books, bed-clothes, and washing. Gentlemen are educated for L.20, a-year, including all branches of education, board, and washing. Some excellent stone barracks are in the village, which is reckoned an important post in approaching Quebec from the States; They were unoccupied, and in good order. The river above, the village forms a continued rapid for a mile or two, and affords ample power for propelling machinery.

The state of the weather and roads induced me to abandon the plan of visiting the Eastern Townships, and we agreed to pass down the banks of the Richlieu to Sorrel. We obtained a cart, in which a seat was placed for my friend D—and me; and we set out, driven by a boy who was said to know the road well, followed by Mr—and Miss—in the waggon we all four occupied the previous day. A more wretched equipment than the one furnished us seldom appeared. A ragged boy drove a small lean Canadian mare, which hopped on three legs; and the ill fitting wheels of our crazy cart besmeared us with mud, and creaked so loud, that we could scarcely hear each other speak, while almost every passenger cracked a joke on our musical vehicle. After jogging on for more than an hour, it was discovered we were on the road leading to Montreal, instead of that to Sorrel. A council was held—we determined to continue the route, and Mr—and Miss—returned. We soon reached Longueil, and crossed the St Lawrence in an awkward-looking ferry-boat, propelled by horses. This horse-power differed from that we had seen used in the States for similar purposes, by the horses, walking round a circle instead of remaining stationary. The machinery of the boat was fitted up for twenty-two, although only fourteen horses were attached, and the poor animals were unmercifully goaded by two ruffian drivers. On landing on the opposite side of the river, we walked to Montreal in time for dinner.

The soil, from Lapraire to Chambly, and around the village, is strong clay, varying considerably in quality, and uniformly ill managed. Parts of the canal channel, forming near Chambly, showed no change of soil at the depth of ten feet. The soil also from Chambly to Longueil was clay, and part of 0151 139 the country was flooded by the rain of the previous day. The whole surface bore evidence of want of draining, and how essential knowledge is to improved agriculture. In many instances, soil of the best quality did not yield more than two seeds of wheat, while the crops were intermingled with truly luxuriant indigenous tares, thistles, and white clover. I had often heard of the French Canadians clinging to their farms until starved from them—that is, till the soil did not yield them food to subsist on, and I had here evidence of the process and result of such an agricultural system. The ravages of the wheat-fly were everywhere evident.

The appearance of the population, houses, and gardens, resembled that of Terre Bonne, excepting that the floors of many dwelling-houses were raised two or three feet above the ground, the result, doubtless, of the wetness of their situation.

After dining at Montreal, we visited the nursery grounds of Mr C—, which were by far the cleanest and most productive of any we saw in America, on our way to the mountain. The mountain is about 700 feet high, situated at a short distance from the town, and one of its chief ornaments. From its summit is seen an immense extent of diversified country, together with the waters of the St Lawrence and Ottawa flowing in their various channels—those of the latter, by dividing, form the islands of Montreal and Jesus. The mountain is altogether destitute of public walks or carriage drives, although admirably adapted for both, being covered with trees, and affording some truly interesting views, which change at every step.

Next morning, in company with our kind and attentive friend,—, Mr D—and I rode in a gig round the country lying to the north and west of the mountain, calling on different individuals, and examining several farms for sale. During our drive, we visited the race-course at St Pierre, where we saw three horses belonging to Mr—get a gallop. One was particularly small, and none of them seemed to possess racing merit. On leaving the race-course, we drove to Lachine rapids, and returned by the river side to Montreal, much gratified with our excursion.

A young thriving hedge of English thorn was observed at 0152 140 a village on the north side of the mountain. Bushvetch, vicia caraca , and yellow clover, were growing plentifully, and I also met with the latter at Chambly. Mildew was seen on wheat where the crop was strong, and the ravages of the fly generally traced, though they did not exist to the same extent as on the south side of the St Lawrence.

The soil of the island of Montreal, about seventy miles in circumference, is variable, including gravel, clay, sand, and peat; the two former preponderating, and a great part of all requires draining. Limestone is abundant, and on one farm I found marl, which we tested with vinegar. The land is held by French tenure, and divided, in the French manner, into long narrow portions of from 70 to 220 acres. The agriculture cannot be said to have been reduced to system, if we except the alternation of wheat and thistle pasture, already noticed. A better state of things is, however, about to dawn—several British farmers having commenced operations near the town of Montreal, and are draining, liming, and manuring freehold as well as leasehold properties. At present, the most lucrative department of farming is raising vegetables for the market, and from the cheapness of manure, the limited extent of free dry soil, the skill requisite for producing market stuffs, and the prospect of increasing population, this description of husbandry is likely to continue profitable for a great length of time. Manure during part of the year is obtained without price, and it rarely exceeds sixpence a cart-load. Vegetables are extravagantly dear at all times. My friend, Mr—, while I was with him, sold a considerable extent of potatoes at L.35 per acre.

Hay fetches a high price at Montreal, more especially that of timothy grass for horses. Clover hay is only bought for the use of cows. Two Scotch farmers, in the neighbourhood of Montreal, sow from two to three lbs. of red clover seed to an acre; and I doubt if it is economical to do so when hay is grown for sale, as clover is more than one penny a-stone cheaper than timothy hay. A milch-cow can be grazed during the season for $1, and near Montreal, for $2, or 8s. 6d. sterling for a season.

The price of land on the island is from L.10 to L.20 per acre, according to quality, situation, and buildings. Labour 0153 141 is moderate, in the American sense of the word. Mr D—had let the cutting of his barley crop, which was good, and the work well executed (to both of which I testify) to French Canadians, at 7s. 6d. sterling per acre, without food, or any etcetera. Mr—, near Laprairie, paid a stout active East Lothian ploughman by the year, L.15 Halifax money, 6½ Lothian bolls of oatmeal, 3 bolls potatoes, 2 bushels peas, and a month's meat in harvest, a cow's keep, a house and garden, with 10 cords of firewood. A second servant got the same wages in kind, with L.12 in money. Mr—, also, near Laprairie, paid his servant $8 per month, and his second, $7—both found, or L.20 sterling a-year, with bed and board.

The city of Montreal is situated on an island of the same name, on the north bank of the St Lawrence, and at the head of the ship navigation of the river. The houses consist chiefly of stone, and are disposed in narrow streets. The principal building is the Catholic church, a capacious building, not quite finished on the original plan for want of funds, and said to be capable of holding nearly 10,000 souls. The population amounts to about 30,000 souls, and the trade is most extensive. While Upper Canada, and the western part of the Lower Province, continue to prosper, limits cannot be set to the increase of Montreal, which is at present the most important place of trade in the British American possessions. Should manufactures ever flourish in Lower Canada, Lachine rapids could supply Montreal with an unlimited water-power.

CHAPTER XVII.

Journey from Montreal to Hamilton—Separation of Friends—Rideau Canal—Emigrants passing up the St Lawrence—Massena—Waddington—Ogdensburgh—Lake of the Thousand Isles—Andrew Dinwoodie, a Farmer from Dumfries-shire—Live-stock from England—Innkeeper of Kingston—Great Britain Steamer—Emigrant Passengers—John By Steamer.

Having long made up my mind to visit the western parts of Upper Canada, and the confluence of the Mississippi and Missouri, it was necessary to separate from my companion, in whose company I had spent so many happy hours, and to whose disinterested friendship I owe more than it will ever be in my power to repay. It was arranged that he should take my trunk and portmanteau to New York, to wait my arrival there, having experienced the inconvenience of attempting to take luggage through a thinly-peopled district. I reserved a plain suit of clothes, which had already become shabby. Packing two shirts of cotton, and one of flannel, five collars, five pair of cotton stockings, and a dressing-case, into a small leathern cloak-bag which my friend had used for buckling behind his saddle in Scotland, I left Montreal on the 18th of August; having arranged to be at certain places on fixed days, so as to reach New York in the first week of November. My friend left Montreal some hours before me, on a visit to New Glasgow, and, after seeing Quebec, travelled by Lake Champlain to New York, and reached England on the 17th September.

I was anxious to pass along the line of the Rideau canal, so much praised by engineers, and sneered at by utilitarians, and which nine-tenths of those best capable of judging of its merits condemn as a lavish misapplication of national expenditure; but the irregularity of the conveyances by this route, and my limited time, induced me to ascend the St Lawrence; 0155 143 and, by way of varying the scene, I took the American line of conveyances—travelling by stage to Lachine, and from thence to Cascades by steam, from Cascades to Coteau du Lac by stage, and again by steam to Cornwall, which we reached by 2 A.M. of the 11th.

The waters of the dark-coloured Ottawa, and limpid St Lawrence, formed a striking contrast on the way to Cascades, situated on the former. The banks of the St Lawrence were observed in some places to consist of clay twenty feet deep, without any admixture—some excellent soil was seen above Cascades—the wheat crop from Montreal upwards was perfectly ripe, and barley in some instances carried.

At Coteau du Lac our steamer took seven batteaux, or open boats, in tow, in one of which I counted 110 emigrants, of all ages, who were doomed to pass the night on board. Men, women, and children were huddled together as close as captives in a slave-trader, exposed to the sun's rays by day, and river damp by night, without protection. It was impossible to look upon such a group of human beings without emotion. The day had been so intensely hot, that the stoutest amongst them looked fatigued, while the females seemed ready to expire with exhaustion. Conversation was carried on in whispers, and a heaviness of heart seemed to pervade the whole assemblage. Never shall I forget the countenance of a young mother, ever anxiously looking at twin infants slumbering on her knee, and covering them from the vapour rising from the river, and which strongly depicted the feelings of maternal affection and pious resignation. Night soon veiled the picture, and, I fear, brought no relief to the anxious mother. The navigation up the St Lawrence in batteaux is accomplished by propelling them with poles, and is necessarily tedious. The accommodation is so wretched and irksome, that the emigrants' privations of transport may be said only to commence at Montreal, where they perhaps expected them to end, and when their spirits are ill fitted to bear up against them. Steam conveyance of late must have shortened their sufferings.

On reaching Cornwall I immediately proceeded on board the American steam-boat Dalhousie, which conveyed us across 0156 144 to Hoogdensburgh by six A.M. From thence we were conveyed to Ogdensburgh by land, passing through the villages of Massena and Waddington. We breakfasted at Massena springs, the waters of which possess medicinal qualities, and are pleasantly situated on a branch of the Racket.

The thriving village of Waddington is on the St Lawrence, and opposite to which, on an island in the river, is situated the handsome residence of Governor Ogden.

The country in this part of the state of New York is of indifferent soil, and very partially cleared; the farm-houses are of the meanest description, and there is no appearance of wealth or comfort amongst the rural population. In many instances farmers were engaged in securing their hay crops on the Sabbath, and much wheat was standing in a state of over-ripeness. The previous state of the weather may, in some measure, explain both proceedings.

We arrived at Ogdensburgh shortly after night-fall, at an excellent hotel, which seemed filled with people. Tea, or, in common parlance of the country, supper, was soon provided for the stage-passengers, who did ample justice to the viands. On learning a steam-boat was to sail next morning at daybreak for Kingston, I retired to a double bedroom, in company with Mr M—, a north country Scotsman, who had just arrived in the country, and was travelling to York. The landlord of the hotel showed us personally to our bedroom, and also conducted us to the quay in the morning.

Ogdensburgh is situated at the confluence of the Oswegatchie river with the St Lawrence, and is the lower termination of American navigation on Lake Ontario. It has many appearances of prosperity, and contains a population of nearly two thousand souls.

At five in the morning the United States steam-boat left Ogdensburgh, calling at Morristown on the American side of the lake, and on the British one at Brockville and Kingston, where I remained for the evening. Darkness prevented me seeing the Lake of the Thousand Isles, on my way down to Montreal, and I was not fortunate in passing up during day. The Lake of the Thousand Isles takes its name from the number of islands which it contains, and is about 0157 145 forty miles in length; forming the termination of Lake Ontario, and commencement of the river St Lawrence. The islands are generally small rocks, a few feet above water, covered with stunted trees, standing as close together as curling-stones on a rink of ice in Scotland, and completely excluding a sight of the mainland. The weather was unfavourable, a drizzling rain having set in, which perhaps affected my feelings, and increased the sombreness of the scenery, which at all times possesses little interest from the want of life. So much is this felt, that a gentleman of my acquaintance, passing up the Lake of the Thousand Isles a few weeks before, was sitting by a traveller engaged with his note-book, when a crow came in sight. He interrupted the writer, and begged he would notice the crow, as it was the only moving thing he had seen during three hours' sail.

On board of the United States I had a long conversation with a fellow-passenger, Andrew Dinwuddie, from Dumfries-shire, in Scotland, and I hope he will pardon me mentioning his name. Andrew was an excellent specimen of his cautious countrymen, and showed credentials highly honourable to his honesty and integrity. He had come to America in spring, accompanied by two brothers, who had purchased land near Prescott, paying L.300 for 200 acres, seventy of them being cleared. Andrew was unmarried, and determined to look about him before sitting down for life. After assisting his brothers to plant their potatoes, he worked with an English farmer in the neighbourhood of Ogdensburgh for a month, and was now on his way to Geneva and Canandaigua in the state of New York, at which places he intended to work for some time. Andrew seemed to have belonged to what is called in Scotland the class of small farmers, and was much pleased with the change of country he had made; having assisted at the Englishman's hay and wheat harvest, for which he got $8 a-month, working moderately, and messing with his employer on the best of fare. He had found no difficulty in mowing during the warm weather;—and greatly preferred American butcher-meat three times a-day, to the oatmeal porridge, barley bread, and sour milk of Scotland.

While at Kingston, ten short-horned cattle, nineteen Southdown K 0158 146 down sheep, and a lot of swine, came to the yard of the Kingston hotel, at which I lodged, on their way to the county of Dumfries, Upper Canada, direct from England. They were objects of interest to many of the inhabitants, and were seemingly in excellent health and condition.

I left Kingston about dusk for York, in the St George steam-boat; one of the shafts broke when opposite the Bay of Quinte, and we returned to Kingston about noon next day. Another vessel was immediately expected to carry us on our voyage; and, in the meantime, the captain refused the passengers dinner; and four of us went on shore to dine, in order to be in readiness. We called at the Commercial Hotel, esteemed the first house of entertainment in Upper Canada; and, on an application at the bar, were told a joint could not be prepared for us until four o'clock. Having stated it was possible to dine without a joint, and we soon expected a steam-boat to take us to York, a mutton-chop was promised in half-an-hour. We had not, however, retired to the parlour five minutes, when a spruce waiter entered, and told us Mr Macdonald would not give dinner. I could not help contrasting this treatment with what we experienced at Ogdensburgh; and if Mr Macdonald's behaviour passes for British manners and hospitality, they have not improved by transportation to Canada.

The Great Britain, one of the largest vessels on Lake Ontario, was laid alongside of the St George, and all hands employed in transferring the cargo of the one to the other. A passage was made from the upper decks of both vessels, along which the passengers passed to and fro; and as they came crowding up stairs for hours together with their luggage, reminded me of bees entering a hive laden with pollen; it was eleven o'clock before the bustle was over, and the vessel under weigh. I observed a quantity of gunpowder conveyed from the St George to the Great Britain in the most careless manner, and locked in the captain's room. The owner of the Great Britain, Mr—, was on board at the time, and must have sanctioned the transport of this dangerous commodity.

The night-scene on board the Great Britain formed a counterpart to that of the batteau on the St Lawrence, almost 0159 147 every inch of surface being crowded with reposing individuals; the lower decks and passages were crowded to excess, and a great part of the upper deck, which is uncovered, was also occupied. The aged and infirm sought shelter below; the boys clustered round the chimney stalks for heat, while the more hardy stretched themselves on the upper deck without almost any covering, surrounded by forms, or under lee of large packages. Near the stern of the vessel a young woman, perhaps with a view of avoiding danger, placed three infants on her outspread mantle, with their innocent faces towards heaven; and as they gradually sunk to rest, the motion of their slumbering eyelids seemed mimicry of the twinkling stars in the firmament.

The Great Britain reached York about six P.M., previous to which the passengers were mustered on the upper deck, and paid their passage-fares on going below. Many of the emigrant deck-passengers had not, or affected not to have, money; and I saw two middle-aged respectable-looking females place part of their wardrobe in pawn for their fares, and luggage had been credited from conveyance to conveyance all the way from Montreal, with the fares of its owners. Steam-boat proprietors do not lose much in this way, as the friends of emigrants generally relieve the pawned effects.

The meeting of emigrants and their friends at York was an interesting sight. In particular, a group of Scotch Highlanders, consisting of old women and half-a-dozen of innocent-looking girls, incapable of speaking the English language, appeared in ecstasy at joining their friends on the pier, who seemed to have arrived in the country some time before. They laughed, embraced, and saluted each other on the cheek, which is rarely witnessed in America.

To accommodate a gentleman, I lodged in the Steam-boat Hotel at York, which I found an indifferent establishment in the sleeping department. I could not have remained a second night, or gone to bed the first one, had light enabled me to see the actual state of things.

A friend having agreed to accompany me in a tour through the western part of Upper Canada, and who was waiting my arrival, we left York together, in the John By steamer, for 0160 148 Hamilton, where we arrived at eleven o'clock. The John By had been constructed to ply on the Rideau canal, with paddle wheels in the stern—the worst sailing and ill-constructed boat in Canada. The engine was high pressure; and if a vessel was to be built for roasting passengers, the John By might have furnished useful hints. She was soon afterwards wrecked.

We could not gain admittance into any of the hotels at Hamilton, except one, on account of the lateness of the hour. The beds were all occupied before our arrival; but the bar-keeper said he would place one on the floor, where Mr C—and I were soon stretched side by side, and soon afterwards some individuals, similarly situated, were admitted to share our bed. On awakening next morning I missed Mr C—from my side, who was lying in a distant corner of the room; and he afterwards told me, that disliking the company which joined us, he slipped from bed so soon as he could do so unnoticed.

CHAPTER XVIII.

Journey on the Banks of the Grand River—Corduroy Roads—River-side Vegetation—Cradling—Settler from Edinburgh—Reserve of the Six Nations—Nellis Settlement—Indian Notices—Settler from Perthshire—First Settlers—Gentle Children—Agricultural Notices—Great Heat—Drinking Water—Raising Bee—Brantford—Oak Openings—Paris—Galt—Guelph—Waggoner at Table—Face of the Country—Dutch Hotel.

We rose very early next morning, and rode in a hired waggon to a friend's near Albion mills, where we breakfasted, and set out for the Grand River, accompanied by a third person, to whom I had written to hold himself in readiness for the excursion. The road was tolerably good, until within four or five miles of the river, which then consists of almost one unbroken line of corduroy, on reaching which we returned the waggon, and walked the remainder of the journey. A corduroy road, or, in the language of the country, crossway, is formed of the trunks of trees, laid close to each other, so that animals and carriages may pass without touching the ground. It is formed wherever the soil is wet, and may be considered log pavement. We came in contact with the river at Brant's tavern, where a wooden building was erecting of some pretensions, and continued our walk down the left bank, where Mr W—resides, about two miles below the tavern.

The soil from Hamilton to the Grand River is chiefly clay, of good quality, and well settled, with exception of the Indian reserve on the banks of the river. From Brant's tavern to Mr W—'s, the road is beautiful, the banks of the river being fringed with plum, cherry, apple-trees, and hawthorn, encled with the wild vine, the foliage of which was particularly rich. I have often remarked the luxuriance and beauty of river-side vegetation, and more especially in America, which, no doubt, is in a great measure owing to the copious supply 0162 150 of moisture afforded the plants by evaporation, and which is the more abundant on moderate-sized rivers in a country like America, where the temperature of day and night varies considerably.

The greater part of the crops had been carried, and those of wheat remaining in the field appeared particularly shabby, compared with those of Britain, being thin on the ground and short in the sheaf. I examined a cradler at work in an oatfield, who was making good work, cutting low, and laying down the ears with regularity. The implement is brought round with a full and awkward-looking sweep, nine or ten feet wide, and jerked so as to throw off the stalks, the whole of which are collected in the cradle. By this mode of operating, the cradler supports the weight of the crop collected in the sweep on his arms, and receives no relief from any part of the cut crop, or implement resting on the ground, as in the case of mowing grass with the common scythe of Britain: a heavy crop of grain must, therefore, be particularly fatiguing to the cradler.

We found Mr W—at home, who had been expecting us for a day or two, in consequence of having been written to. He had been known to us all when in Edinburgh, which he left in the previous month of March, and had only been a few weeks in his present situation in the Nellis Settlement on the Grand River. He had purchased six or seven hundred acres, about seventy of which were cleared, and there was a good house, in the Canadian sense of the word, on the property. For some time after the purchase, he resided with the former proprietor, who only left the house a few days before our arrival. His household establishment consisted of a newly-imported Scotch ploughman; and as our host had not himself been accustomed to house-keeping at any period of his life, the house may have justly been termed Bachelor Hall. The evening was spent in walking over the property, and admiring the beauty of the situation. Next morning Mr W—explained the peculiarity of his circumstances with regard to household matters, which were temporary, and excited in all of us mirth instead of regret. The breakfast table was laid out with the only animal substance in the house, a large bone 0163 151 of mutton, the fragment of a joint which had been prepared for us three days before, and now produced to show we would have fared better had we kept our appointment. I had made up my mind to try if there was flesh on the bone, which could not be ascertained without using a knife, but unfortunately a large dog scampered off with the relick before our eyes. Mr W—at this time was in the kitchen, infusing tea, and, when informed of the catastrophe, promised to reward with a swing in a rope the poor dog, which had no master, and had taken up its quarters with him a day or two before. A consultation was held about obtaining a substitute for the bone, when two of us went in quest of hen-eggs, a nest of which was found in the barn, containing a great supply. On searching for the means of cooking them, we could only find a boiler with a hole in the side, which seemed to serve for general use. Into this vessel part of the eggs were put, but it was impracticable to make the water boil, as it would have escaped through the hole. On removing them, they were found sufficiently done, and formed an excellent repast in connexion with the best wheaten bread I ever met with, and which had been baked by the lady of the former proprietor.

I have noticed these particulars in Mr W—'s household, from being amongst the first real Backwood scenes we had met with, and which his kindness and good-humour would have rendered agreeable under any circumstances. He had been accustomed to move in the best society in Edinburgh, and the facility with which he accommodated himself to his altered situation, was deserving of praise. It has been said, the circumstances of his household were temporary; and I have since learned he soon afterwards married a young lady, whom I saw on the banks of the Grand River, and trust he now enjoys that degree of happiness he so well merits, and which I sincerely wish him.

In the forenoon of the day after our arrival, Mr W—drove my two friends, C—and S—, down the banks of the river, I riding on horseback, in company with Mr W. N—. The banks form what is called the Reserve of the Six Nations, which extends from the mouth of the river on Lake Erie to Brantford, a distance of about fifty miles, and 0164 152 embraces three miles on each side of the river. The Indians granted part of their lands, upwards of fifty years ago, to individuals chiefly of Dutch extraction, who then settled on them, and whose descendants are still resident. The land so granted is called the Nellis Settlement, and is one of the most beautiful spots in Upper Canada. The poor Indians of the Six Nations, like every one of the many tribes in America which have come in contact with white men, have greatly decreased in numbers, and have recently sold to the British Government fourteen miles in length of their Reserve from the mouth of the river, and which has been surveyed, and was brought into the market a few weeks after my visit there. To see this district was the object of our excursion, but which the state of the roads and want of time prevented our accomplishing. We retraced our steps, after passing about half a mile into the newly ceded territory.

A number of well-dressed Indians of both sexes were passing up and down the banks of the river on horseback, with good saddles and bridles. In one instance, an Indian and his wife, or squaw, as they are called in the language of the country, were riding together, she after the manner of Englishwomen, with a child sitting behind, and the husband had a child before him.

In going down the river, we called on an Indian of reputed wealth, named Fish Carrier. He is a stout middle-aged man, with a wife and family. His log-house had an appearance of comfort, having two large well-glazed windows in front, a door with veranda to the back, and a stone chimney stack. The family seemed to have finished a repast shortly before our arrival,—a good table being covered with plates, knives, and forks, recently used. There were two four-posted beds in the room, five or six chairs, a cat, and several dogs. There were horses, cows, and pigs in the woods. Fish Carrier could imperfectly understand, but was unable to speak the English language, and Mr W. N—being similarly situated with the Indian one, the conversation of the parties was short and unsatisfactory.

Some distance below Fish Carrier's is the Council-house of the tribes, a long narrow wooden building, with an upper 0165 153 and lower range of benches round both sides, on which the senators recline during counsel. It is kept by two old women, who cook on days of meeting. At the time of our visit they were in the act of churning, and I sipped a little of the buttermilk. The butter was particularly white in colour. I also partook of bread made from Indian corn meal, mixed with a few unhusked French beans, which looked like raisins in a cake. The bread was soft and damp, and seemed to have been prepared by boiling. To me it was unpalatable, although some of my friends did not dislike it. The roof was hung with ears of Indian corn, considered public property, which are contributed by individuals in years of abundance, and reserved for times of scarcity. The Council-house is also used for dancing, and contained a number of ornaments worn on such occasions, consisting of strings of bones for fixing on different parts of the body, and prized for the clattering they make when in motion.

On our return, a young Indian, of fifteen or sixteen years of age, shot a small bird with an arrow from a common bow, and on being requested to try and strike the bird when dead, he placed it on the trunk of a tree, and missed it twice. Five small boys were shooting birds with a blow-gun, and amused me by their manner of stealing up to the object of their attack. The blow-gun is a long narrow wooden tube, with a small arrow, on the end of which is a quantity of thistle down neatly dressed, and which fills the tube, so as to give effect to the arrow, which is discharged from the gun by the breath of the sportsman. It is little better than a child's toy.

Having a desire to see the lands which Government had obtained from the Indians, Mr C—and I set out next day at seven A.M., furnished with horses, through the kindness of friends, to visit Mr B—. We had not, however, gone far when his horse became so lame that he returned, and I proceeded alone, down the banks of the river, which I lost sight of, and after a long ride came to a settled part of the country, where I found myself on the road to Cranberry, and four miles from the river. On learning the direction of the river, I entered the woods with a tired horse, which I led in my hand, and after a tedious walk, gained the river two miles below where 0166 154 the object of my search resided, and which I reached at two P.M. After resting the horse some time, I returned up the river, and in two hours got over a distance which in the early part of the day occupied seven hours. Many adventures are related throughout Canada of people having lost themselves in the woods; and there is so much danger in a bush excursion, that people unaccustomed to follow tracks in the wilderness, ought never to incur the hazard. A stubbornness of disposition led me to make an attempt to regain the river without a compass. Guiding my course by the sun, my success was complete, but had clouds arisen to obscure it, my situation would have been unpleasant.

On introducing myself to Mr B—, he said he had heard of my arrival in the country, and welcomed me kindly. He had only been settled a few days, and was engaged in improving his house, with the assistance of an Indian, who understood cabinet-making. The Indian was preparing a duck for dinner, of which I partook, sitting on a chest, and having another for a table. The duck might be a canvass-back, but I made no enquiry on the subject, and it was without feathers, by which alone I could have determined the species. No food could be more grateful to my palate, and I rejoiced at so opportune an arrival. Mr B—, with the understanding of Government, purchased the Indian improvements, that is, paid them for the house and cleared land; and was to pay afterwards the ordinary price of land to Government. He was said to have farmed in Perthshire, Scotland, and resided some time in the state of New York before coming to Canada. Mentioning to him that I had been told of his leaving the States in disgust with the people, he assured me such was not the case, as he felt ashamed of having left his acquaintance there, who had shown him the utmost kindness, and whom he respected and loved.

On my return to the Nellis Settlement, I passed one or two habitations of white men on the river side, and seldom enjoyed a more agreeable ride. The sun was low in the horizon, and gilded every object with a rich and soothing hue, so different from the fierce rays of summer noonday, that an admirer of nature seldom loses an opportunity of viewing 0167 155 its loveliness. A romantic fancy may suppose this tint of the setting sun an affectionate evening adieu to nature; and such are its effects on vegetation, that I have seen the Scottish farmer stalk forth, and gaze on the beauty of his crops, although perhaps insensible of the cause of his pleasure. The unruffled waters, beneath a cloudless sky, reflected objects on the surrounding banks; while Indian cots, situated on the most prominent points of the terrace, occasionally met the eye. When contemplating a landscape, where several small islands seemed reposing on the surface of the river, and on which grew luxuriant Indian corn, overtopped with magnificent sunflowers in full blossom, gentle ripples issuing from beneath a bush on the bank of an island, led me to expect waterfowl, but a squaw, standing erect, came gracefully paddling a canoe filled with children, who had been cultivating the sunflower. Swan never guided her brood with more majesty and care than this female did her offspring.

I met some Indians, and a plain-looking white woman, with fair hair, dressed in Indian attire, and carrying a child of Indian hue. She was said to be a native of Ireland, and a solitary instance of a white female living with the Indians.

My friends were at a loss to conjecture the cause of my absence, as I engaged to dine at Mr N—'s, where I joined them a little after seven o'clock. Next day we dined with Mr W. N—. These invitations came opportunely after the loss of the mutton bone; and I have no doubt were the means of saving the lives of several of Mr W—'s fowls. It was gratifying to see the old settlers so attentive to Mr W—on this emergency, and I was glad of the opportunity of witnessing the manners and customs of the descendants of the first inhabitants of this part of the country. Mr N—is pretty well advanced in life, a shrewd and well-informed person, and has let his farm in shares to an Englishman. Mr W. N—is a very active middle-aged person, with a wife and family, and cultivates his farm personally. He lives in a small frame-house, with plain furniture, and every thing we saw was plain and neat. Mrs W. N—was also a native of Canada, cousin to her husband; had four or 0168 156 five children; and was, I believe, without a female servant or help. The children were thus the third generation which had been reared in comparative seclusion on the banks of the Grand River. The softness of manner, ease, and good-humour of the children, appeared equal to families in the better ranks of life in my native country, and I was anxious to ascertain if this gentleness of manner was real. With this view I romped, fondled, and teased, within and without doors, the small boys, without ruffling their tempers; and trust my little friends Hamilton and Nielson will in age display matured fruits of their sweet and early blossoms. Manner, like the disposition of children, is, to a certain extent, the gift of nature; but the example of parents deeply affects families, more especially when shut out from society. This family unquestionably owed much to the good sense and conduct of both parents, and ought to go far in satisfying people in Britain that their children will not necessarily become savages by being removed to the woods of Canada, if they themselves lead proper lives, which they ought to do for their children's sake, if not for their own.

I have already mentioned a dam across the Grand River at Dunville for supplying water to the Welland Canal, and which throws back the water in the channel of the river for nearly twenty miles, until it reaches the Nellis Settlement. The beauty of the river has been injured below this point by the stagnant water having covered the low lands, destroyed the trees, and imparted a marshy and gloomy character to the banks. In the Nellis Settlement, the river possesses much of its original character, and is truly fine, gliding around some fertile and beautiful islands, while the rich flat lands on the banks extend a considerable distance back, and terminate in an undulating surface. The low land on the banks of the river is what is termed bottom, or interval land, in some parts of America, and is a fine rich loamy soil. The undulating ground is clay of good quality, and has not been cleared to any extent. The low lands are altogether cleared, though adorned with single and wide-spreading trees; and it is here most of the settlers reside. If the Grand River is rendered navigable to Brantford by means of locks, as is talked of, the charms of the 0169 157 Nellis Settlement, one of the most beautiful spots in the province, will be destroyed by the submersion of the islands and flats. The soil of the Indian Reserve, including what was sold to government, as seen by me on the east side of the Grand River, is chiefly clay of medium quality, with very little vegetable mould on the surface. In a distance of nearly twenty miles, I observed only one or two streamlets joining the river, which does not augur favourably of the lands abounding in water, unless the springs flow in a westerly direction towards the Welland or Chippaway River. The prevailing wood is oak.

The agriculture on the Grand River embraces the cultivation of wheat, oats, clover, and Indian corn, by the white population, the Indians confining their attention chiefly to Indian corn, and occasionally a little wheat. The female Indians bestow considerable attention on the cultivation of Indian corn, which is planted on the best of land by the river side, and infinitely surpasses any thing I saw belonging to the white population. In many cases the crop was eight feet high, and almost always has intermingled with it a few plants of the sunflower, still more luxuriant than the corn, the large yellow flowers of which bending towards the sun, impart a high degree of richness and beauty to the crop.

At eight A.M. on the 21st August, the party at Mr W—'s broke up, Captain A—on horseback for Blenheim, S—and the mutton-bone stealer for Hamilton, and C—and I on foot for Brantford. The morning was fine, and the road being through the Indian Reserve on the banks of the river, we enjoyed our walk for some time. But towards noon the powerful rays of a vertical sun shone on us, while the banks and trees excluded every breath of air, and we suffered considerably from heat. My friend on two occasions petitioned for a few minutes' rest, when we reclined under a tree to cool, almost naked. We reached Brantford to dinner, a distance of twenty-four miles, and learned the thermometer stood at ninety-four degrees in the shade. In the evening we walked around Brantford, having quite recovered the fatigue and broiling we underwent in the early part of the day.

People frequently speak of the danger of drinking cold 0170 158 water in Canada, and recommend a mixture of spirits as a safeguard, a convenient doctrine for such as delight in stimulants. Having at every period of my life indulged in the use of cold water when thirsty and taking exercise, I saw no reason for a change of system while in America, which Mr C—also followed. In walking through the Indian Reserve, we became thirsty, and being unable to discover water, we approached the dwelling of an Indian, in the hope of obtaining a supply. A well-dressed interesting young squaw was sitting under a wooden shade, with a deer-skin, the embers of a fire, and cooking apparatus before her, apart from the house, to avoid heating it. I asked for a drink, and on observing that she did not comprehend the import of my words, motioned the action of drinking, when she instantly glided into the house, and brought a snow-white bowl, which she presented with water. We made a second application at an Indian habitation, but our eloquence and gestures were unavailing, as the inmates did not seem to wish to afford us relief. My friend now contrasted the soft black eye and benevolent countenance of the squaw who supplied water, with the dirty sordid looking creatures who denied it; and while we were engaged in debating whether the different appearances of the individuals really existed, or arose from our associations connected with them, we suddenly beheld an interesting and extensive view at a bend of the river, lying 200 feet below; and in the foreground, at a few yards distance, a limpid fount bubbling forth from the hollow trunk of a tree, at which we quenched our thirst.

In passing from Nellis Settlement to Brantford, two Indian school-houses were observed, and we intended calling on their religious instructor, Mr N—, who was from home. The Indian houses were similar to those on the river below, with glazed windows, verandas for excluding the rays of the sun, and a ladder on the roof for reaching the chimney-top. We several times pulled excellent apples, and passed one tree of remarkable size, loaded with fruit, surrounded by a fence, and its branches supported by props.

The soil on the banks of the river was generally clay, though in some places sand, and there was a tract of five or six miles 0171 159 of excellent loam. The wood was chiefly oak, with here and there a few pines, which on the west side seemed to prevail to the water's edge. There is little agriculture on this part of the Reserve of any kind. At the Indian's dwelling, where we obtained the drink of water, there was a good crop of wheat, well stacked, a waggon for carrying home the crop, and a good barn. This day I commenced a collection of seeds, by selecting six species of wheat, three white chaffed varieties having red-skinned grain, and three red chaffed varieties having very white grain.

While at Brantford, we observed a raising bee, that is, raising the frame of a house by a collection of people. The frame had been constructed, and the parts fitted before-hand, and the company had only to put them together. The process was expeditiously effected, the largest timbers being hoisted to their places by long sharp-pointed poles. The power of brute-force was displayed; yet three men, with the aid of mechanical power, might have accomplished the labour of thirty.

Brantford owes its name to the celebrated Mohawk Indian chief, Brant, and is situated on a high bank on the east side of the Grand River. It is a growing place, containing six hundred souls. There is a new bridge erecting over the river, forming the great thoroughfare to the London and Western districts; and it is said to be in contemplation to render the river navigable to this point. On the opposite side of the river, there is an extensive rich-looking flat country, a part of which is occupied by Europeans on lease from the Indians.

Having experienced the inconvenience of walking in warm weather, we debated whether to pursue the remainder of our journey on horseback or in a waggon, and determined on the latter, which was engaged at $3 per day, the driver finding himself and horses.

Next morning Mr W—, Captain A—, my friend, and I, left Brantford early in the morning, on our way to Galt, and stopped to breakfast with a Mr C—, a successful farmer, residing within seven miles of Brantford. The farm consists of what is called oak openings or plains; and, on examination, I found the soil consisting partly of clay and partly 0172 160 of sand. The crops had been pretty good, especially a field of oats. The straw of wheat in the barn showed no traces of mildew, and the grain was equal to any I had met with in America, a sample of which I preserved. Oak openings or plains consist of stunted oak-trees, thinly scattered over the surface, so that the plough may frequently enter without further obstruction than what arises from the roots of bushes. It is quite certain that fire passes over the plains every year or two, and destroys all tender vegetation. The effects of fire, I have no doubt, also prevents the growth of the trees, which are sometimes pretty thick, and in other places several acres are found without any. Oak openings are free of vegetable mould, or even live vegetation of any value; the soil is commonly light sand, and a superficial observer is apt to think nature hath pronounced the curse of sterility on such spots. But part of Mr C—'s soil convinced me the thinness of the trees, and thriftless vegetation is not an effect of the nature of the soil, which is often much under-rated. Oak openings may be cultivated by girdling the trees, and ploughing with six oxen, and fallowing the ground two years.

Mr C—speaks in high terms of his oak openings, only a small part of which, in my opinion, merited praise. He estimates the expense of raising the first wheat crop on such soil, including the price of land, and two years' fallow, at $20 per acre, and the return of the first crop at twenty bushels. The price of wheat, last year's crop, 1832, was $¾. Gypsum, or plaster of Paris, he invariably applies to clover. Labourers are always to be had at from $10 to $13 a-month in summer. Winter lasts six months. I was pleased with my visit to Mr C—, and on parting expressed myself so to him.

After breakfast we proceeded by way of Paris, so called from its quarries of gypsum, or plaster of Paris, situated on the Grand River, eight miles from Brantford, and one below the Forks, at which there is mills. We soon afterwards reached Galt, also situated on the Grand River, over which there is a bridge. It contains a church, grist, saw, and pail mill; and several buildings are of stone. My friend had a letter of introduction, which he had brought from Edinburgh, 0173 161 to a gentleman in Galt, whom we understood to be in the habit of receiving the bearers of such letters coolly. In order to guard against apparent disappointment, we delayed calling with the letter till after dinner, and gave instructions for the horses to be put to the waggon before we left the inn. Our reception was, however, all we could have wished, being asked to take wine, and tea, both of which we decline. In conversation, we learned he had left his own residence to avoid company, and building-lots in the village were not sold, for creating opposition to Mr—'s store. The prospect from Galt is pine forest of stunted growth, with a few straggling cedars on the margin of the river. We left Galt in the afternoon, and reached Guelph at eight P.M. Next day we rode into the township of Eramosa, and returned to Guelph in time for dinner, and reached Galt in the evening.

Guelph is finely situated on the river Speed, a branch of the Grand River, and is well supplied with water from springs as well as the river, which drives mills, and over which there are two bridges. There are about fifty houses in the village, only one of which is of stone. There is a market house of wood, roughly finished, and without a stall or a frequenter of any kind. Three considerable sized churches of different sects, Catholic, Episcopalian, and Presbyterian, are being erected. Three weeks previous to our arrival, a range of six or seven wood houses had been burnt down, the brick chimneys of which were standing.

This village could boast of ruins, if not of antiquities. The bridges over the Speed at Guelph, and the corduroy, were decayed, and in a shameful state of neglect, alike marking the worthless nature of the wood and insufficient road-way management of the district.

The inn at Guelph is a good establishment for the country, and greatly superior to that at Galt. Our waggoner break-fasted and dined at the public table, in company with two gentlemanly-looking persons, lately from England, without any explanation from the landlord. The waggoner was a Lower Canadian, of French descent, and strongly resembling in size and feature the common description of Scotch peasantry, He L 0174 162 spoke the English language in a broken imperfect manner, and was an unassuming obliging person. This was the second time drivers had appeared at table since reaching the American shore, and I did not experience inconvenience of any kind on either occasion from their presence, both having conducted themselves with the utmost propriety. A meal in the United States and Canada is simply a feeding, and not in any degree a conversational meeting; and ability to pay is therefore considered the standard of admission to public tables. Britain and America are similarly situated in this respect, but in Britain the facilities of getting private tables, and various degrees of entertainment, completely separate travellers into different grades. Viewing meals as social meetings, texture of coat or profession ought not to gain or deny an individual admission to table; and wherever the inhabitants of a country have not been brutalized, true politeness at a public table never fails to check vulgarity and impudence, as well as to impart pleasure.

The surface from Brantford to Galt, by way of Paris, is undulating, chiefly oak openings, consisting of dwarfish decaying oak-trees, with a good deal of underwood, and scarcely a plant of grass or clover interspersed. In some places a good deal of pine is seen, but every description of tree, including larch, is small and stunted looking.

From Galt to Guelph, and in the neighbourhood of the latter, the soil is light, composed of sand or gravel, bearing inferior crops, and, judging from the way sides, calculated to produce excellent pasturage. The wood is small sized; and the district abounding with limpid streams. Annual thistles were growing in vast numbers, and where cleared land had been neglected, were occupying the entire surface. The clearing of land was going on to a considerable extent.

The wheat was much mildewed, and some fields we examined nearly destroyed by it. Sleighs, mere arms of trees, were passing along the roads, drawn by two oxen, on which were small bags, seemingly going to the grist-mill, and under guidance of a stout man, who could have carried the bags on his shoulders. Such a misapplication of ox labour arose, I fear, from laziness.

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A considerable part of the country between Guelph and Galt is settled by Dutchmen, many of whom have cleared farms of considerable size, with good houses and barns. There is a respectable hotel within a few miles of Galt, at which we intended to stop for the night. On entering the bar-room, in which were ten or twelve people, the landlord was scolding his wife in high Dutch; and as he continued deaf to our enquiries, we left the house.

CHAPTER XIX.

Journey from Galt to Goderich—Farmer from Roxburghshire—Female Worth—Improved health of Scotch Farmers—Visit Captain A * * *—Humming-birds—London Family in the Bush—Guides—Avon Accommodation—German Settler—Notices of Nature.

Having letters from some friends in Scotland to a relation of theirs near Galt, who had formerly farmed in Roxburghshire, I was anxious to deliver the letters personally, and set out at six o'clock in the morning in search of his residence, which was difficult to find, from not being named. On enquiring the way at an old man on the road, we got certain information in broad Scotch; and in the course of conversation, he told us he thought Canada a rough bit at first, but he now liked it. Calling at a house to ask the way, a man said it was one thing to put a question, and another to answer it. Seeing the individual was in a state of brutal intoxication, I walked to the waggon, followed by the poor wretch, vociferating disgusting oaths, who seemed exasperated by the silence and contempt with which he was treated. I afterwards learned he had a short time before beat his wife out of the house, and was considered on the high road to ruin.

We at length found the object of our search, Mr T—, walking in his fields with Mr—, whom I had seen at Kingston. Mr T—had only reached Canada the year before, and was not perhaps fairly set down. The farm he had purchased was mostly cleared, and he was summer fallowing a considerable extent of land, which was well ploughed, and laid off into regular ridges. He had bought all the manure in the neighbourhood at about sixpence per load, and was laughed at for having done so. The house was built of wood, and two beds were standing in recesses in the apartment 0177 165 where we breakfasted. Mrs T—apologized for the mean appearance of her house, which I assured her was unnecessary, as I found few in the country so good, and its shining cleanness imparted more interest to me than the highest glitter of British fashion. She was in excellent spirits, and entertained us with many particulars of her journey from Scotland. Arriving at Montreal when cholera was raging in a dreadful manner, and her husband being in a delicate state of health, no time was lost in pursuing their route. In passing up the St Lawrence with her family and luggage, the boat admitted water so freely, that she was forced to walk by the river side with an infant on her back. The population being panic-struck at the havoc cholera was making, shut their doors on emigrants, who, they imagined, had introduced the disease into the country, and she was under the necessity of baking bread for her family with her own hands, and firing it under a tree. After relating many particulars of their first settlement, she concluded by stating, that in Scotland she had three maid-servants constantly at her own command, here she had no servants, and was happier without them. On remarking it delighted me to find her in such excellent spirits and pleased with her situation, as the change from the old country to Canada appeared more trying for ladies than gentlemen, she replied with animation, “O no, sir, ladies can manage their own department here, but gentlemen require assistance in theirs.” Mrs T—spoke with so much good-humour and feeling, that it would have been rudeness to have maintained an opposite opinion; and without investigating which of the sexes in the middle ranks of life undergo the greatest privations at first settlement, observation convinced me females get sooner reconciled to their duties, and discharge them with better effect than males. Much as I have ever esteemed my countrywomen, they never appeared to so much advantage as in Canada, where their energies had been fully called forth and developed by the new circumstances in which they were placed, and their exertions induced me to regard many of them as heroines. Emigrants are desired to bring out wives to Canada, and I add my testimony to the justness of the recommendation. In almost every case that came under notice, my 0178 166 countrywomen appeared calculated to stimulate their husbands to industrious exertion, and some, under divine Providence, seemed to owe almost all they possessed to their fair partners.

One great source of rejoicing to Mrs T—was her husband's improved state of health since his arrival in Canada, which she attributed to climate. But were I to judge of the matter, I would assign his change of circumstances as the more likely cause of his better health. Land in Scotland is almost always occupied on lease of 19 years' endurance, and perhaps there is no situation more trying than a tenant with an over-rented farm. In nine cases out of ten he cannot get quit of his lease, or a modification of rent; if he rise early or toil late, the fruits of his labour go to the proprietor of the land, and year after year he finds his funds diminishing, with ultimate ruin in prospective. Under such circumstances I have known individuals become drunkards, others gamblers; some have sunk into a premature grave, and but few minds remain in full tone, and still fewer constitutions. To escape from such a situation, and reach Canada, where the present may be said to be without care, and futurity so brilliant, must be a perfect Elysium and restorer of health. It is but justice for me to say, that I am altogether unacquainted with the circumstances in which Mr T—was situated in Scotland, but if like many of his profession, his improved health may be regarded as an effect of his improved prospects.

We reached Captain A—'s, in the township of Blenheim, in time for dinner, having passed through miles of forests, in which a track could scarcely be recognised. The general appearance of the place had an air of neatness, although it was only fifteen months since the first tree was felled. He had already cleared about 30 acres, and reaped a luxuriant, though mildewed, wheat crop. Oats, potatoes, and Indian corn, were advancing towards maturity. Here, for the first time in Canada, I saw crops injured from luxuriance, and only two or three instances of such afterwards came under my notice.

The residence of Captain A—was within 50 yards of a rivulet which joined the Nith, the space between the house and the stream being occupied as a garden, in which the taste of the family had begun to be displayed in cultivating flowers. 0179 167 The house was a log cottage of considerable dimensions, one longitudinal half of which was occupied by a kitchen and sitting room; the other half consisted of sleeping apartments, which I did not number. The door opened into the kitchen, in which every thing was clean and neat, and which communicated with the rest of the house. The interior walls consisted of unbarked trees, against which an extensive library was placed, occupying one end of the sitting room. When retiring for the night, we were conducted up a stair into a kind of garret, where we were told we must sleep. At this time I had not seen much Backwood life, and my looks, perhaps, betraying astonishment, Captain A—laughed heartily, and reconducted us to an apartment below, where I reposed for the night, on a more comfortable bed than any I afterwards met with in America.

Next morning, I arose before any of the family, and while walking up the banks of the stream, ere the sun had peeped over the forest, enjoyed an excellent opportunity of observing the humming-bird of the country. Upwards of a dozen of these lovely creatures were feeding on the blossoms of a plant growing near the river, the celerity of their movements in examining and passing from flower to flower excited admiration, and when moving to a distance, the eye could not follow their rapidity of flight. A copious formation of dew had taken place in course of the night, which draggled their beautiful plumage in fluttering amongst the leaves, and they frequently retired to a fallen tree to trim their feathers. They seemed regardless of my presence, and plied their task within a few yards of me. They do not, like the bee, rest on a plant when examining a flower, but thrust their long bill into the heart of the blossom when suspended in air, and in this position excite the noise from which they take their name.

Captain A—'family consisted of eleven children, the eldest of whom seemed about seventeen years. He had moved in the best society of London, and in consequence of a sudden reverse of fortune, came to his present situation, and at once placed his family in the bush, without a servant or any one to assist them, and they bake, cook, wash, and do every thing for themselves. Mrs A—is a sensible woman, 0180 168 reconciled to her situation; and her household and family matters testify to her excellent management. Two sons, handsome, genteel-looking youths, about fifteen or sixteen years of age, chop trees, and perform all sort of farm work. The young ladies seem equally active in their department. I was anxious to see the cows milked, but unfortunately they had strayed in the woods, and could not be found while I was there. It requires a considerable degree of heroism in people like Captain and Mrs A—, accustomed to the gaieties and luxuries of London life, retiring to the woods of Canada without a servant or any thing like their former notions of comfort, and whatever may have been the impelling motive for the step they took, their perseverance merits applause. It was an interesting sight to see a young and genteel family so situated and happy in their new position, and the pleasure experienced during my visit at Lamotte, was an ample recompense for crossing the Atlantic.

In my progress through Canada I had witnessed female devotion of the most exalted character, which circumstances prevent me noticing, but the same reasons do not apply to the youths of this family, and I trust they will pardon the liberty I take with them. Two slender and accomplished boys, in a part of the world blighting to their first budding hopes and enjoyments, inuring themselves to the hardest manual labour in support of their parents, and infant brothers and sisters, is a picture of disinterested virtue worthy of being delineated by an abler pen. I trust their exertions will be crowned with success, and that a portion of time, which can be spared from furnishing food, will be devoted to the moral improvement of the younger branches of the family. What a source of comfort these youths must be to their parents, whose precepts must have had no small share in forming their character, and their conduct may be instanced as illustrative of the advantages of parental care, in a selfish point of view, where nobler motives do not exist. Their mode of life may be different from that of their schoolfellows in England, but in mature age they will look back with delight on their past labours, and in all probability, great will be their reward in this life, and greater in that which is to come.

0181 169

After partaking of breakfast, we bade adieu to Lamotte, when the little members of the family clusteringar ound, reminded me of the humming-birds seen in the morning, and I could not refrain from stealing a kiss from a curly-headed child, whose soft blue eyes were innocently fixed on the departing strangers. On our way to the Goderich road, we were accompanied by Mr T. A—, mounted on horseback, with an axe over his shoulder, to act as guide, and cut a way for the waggon. As he rode before us, with his slender figure dressed in a clean neat jacket and trowsers, snow-white shirt, with exposed collar and broad-brimmed straw hat, I would at one period have thought him ill-adapted for a Backwoodsman, but having, in course of my wanderings in the wilds of Canada, witnessed the advantages of cultivated minds and habits, his appearance was a source of pleasure, while I meditated on his probable career in life. We fortunately did not require much of his axe services, and parted with him at the end of five or six miles, where the road was good. About: two miles farther, the road seemed to terminate at a log-hut, the inmate of which told us a waggon had never penetrated beyond his dwelling, and would have difficulty in reaching the Goderich road, distant four miles. He offered to be our guide, and provided himself with an axe to clear the way. We had before this time commenced walking, from the badness of the roads, and found considerable difficulty in getting the waggon through the bush, when at length its progress was arrested. In this dilemma a person approached, and said it was impossible to proceed in our present route, and offered to show us through the only passage. We were conducted many miles of foot-path, till we at last reached the wished-for road. I felt pleased with our bush guides, one of whom was from Yorkshire, the other from Ireland; they did not take advantage of our situation by stipulating for reward, but seemed to act alone from friendship, and I bestowed on each a trifling gratuity.

We dined at a tavern on Smith's Creek, newly erected, good of its kind, and a little after nightfall reached one on Avon Creek kept by an intelligent Irishman. On retiring for the 0182 170 night, we were conducted to a shanty thirty or forty yards from the tavern, consisting of one apartment, containing three beds, one of which was already occupied, another was destined for our waggoner, and the third for my friend and self. This hovel did not even contain a seat, or any kind of furniture, except the fore-mentioned beds, and the door was without a fastening; the roof was of bark, and the rays of the moon shone through it and the sides of the building, which bore a stronger resemblance to a bird-cage than a human habitation. The beds were boughs of trees, put together in the manner of a camp stool, with a netting of bark connecting the frame-work. The feeble glimmer of a small candle fixed near the door, prevented me seeing the bed-clothes, but the bed felt as rough and hard as the corduroy roads over which we had travelled in course of the day. On lying down for the night, the farmer's saying to Mr T. A—, this is a rough country for a gentleman, recurred to my memory; and in a few minutes the chirping of a thousand crickets lulled me to repose.

Next morning I called our waggoner at daybreak, and, while the horses were attaching, examined a grist and saw mill which were erecting by the river side. We breakfasted on very poor fare at a tavern kept by a German, who was one of the first settlers on the road, having been five years in his present situation. He expressed himself satisfied with his lot, having 1000 acres of land, and had only sixteen in his own country. I remarked that he perhaps held too much land; when he told me he had nine sons, to each of whom he meant to give 100 acres, and retain the same extent for himself. His wheat crop this year consisted of sixteen acres, and was almost entirely destroyed by mildew. We dined at Van Egmont's tavern, which is a wealthy-looking place for the country, containing a store of miscellaneous goods, large barns, and a tolerably good garden. We travelled five or six miles after nightfall to Goderich.

From Smith's Creek to Goderich, a distance of about sixty miles, nearly two-thirds of the road is corduroy or crossway. Occasionally a tree has been left standing in the centre of the road, as if for the purpose of attracting notice. These trees 0183 171 are generally rock-elm of the finest description, but as others equally good could be found a few yards from the road, those on its centre ought to be removed as interruptions.

The soil of Captain A—'s farm in Blenheim is a rich soft loam of easy cultivation. The land of this township, and the adjoining one, Wilmot, which we passed through, is loam of excellent quality. The wood is chiefly maple, interspersed with elm, oak, cherry, and beach. On our way from Lamotte to the Goderich road, we saw what is called a wind-fall in the forest, or havoc of a whirlwind, where the decaying trunks of trees were scattered in wild and mutilated confusion. Many single trees were lying up and down, with large masses of earth raised by, and adhering to, the roots, termed cradle-knolls, which, in some places, were so numerous as to resemble graves in a churchyard. The soil in the township of East and North Hope seems considerably inferior to that of the two mentioned, and a great deal of bad land is afterwards met with, consisting of swamp and wet clay, covered with stunted wood of various kinds, and partially settled by poor looking people, lodged in miserable hovels. I was grieved to see human beings had set themselves down on bad soil, while so much of good quality remained unoccupied, and which would have better rewarded them for the labour of clearing. It is perhaps the policy of some to fix settlers on bad soil, in the first instance, as the good will be sure to attract others. One person told me, with seeming self-satisfaction, that his consisted of an inch or two of black mould on top and fine white clay below.

Chess was plentiful in all situations on the Goderich road; timothy the prevailing grass, a few plants of cocksfoot, with narrow leaves, and white clover, were occasionally seen.

A deer was observed standing on the road for some time, at no great distance from the waggon, and suddenly bounded off into the forest.

CHAPTER XX.

Goderich Hotels—Eagle's Nest—Doctor Dunlop—Cheap Dinner—Search for an East Lothian Farmer—Goderich—Poverty of Settlers—Canada Company—State of Goderich Settlement—Journey to London—Mr T***—Aux Sable Creek—Ship-builder from Essex—Negro Settlement—Notices of Nature—Robinson Hotel—Mode of Travelling—Huron Track Roads—London—St Thomas—Port Stanley—Emigrants from Argyleshire—Dirty Beds—Agricultural Notices.

On arriving at Goderich, we could not get admittance to Reid's hotel, unless my friend and I would occupy half a bed, which induced us to drive to that of Mr Fisher, where we slept uncomfortably on the floor, the landlady telling us, while preparing the pallet, that Goderich was a poor place. While partaking of tea, served up after the fashion of the States, I imagined the sugar had been put into the pot, as there was none visible in the apartment, but next morning I discovered it was mixed with the cream. Fisher's hotel was crowded with workmen of all descriptions, and by way of kindness, I suppose, we were invited to breakfast with the family. My shoes had long remained uncleaned, and I got them blackened here by paying 3d. sterling, which was unprofitably spent money, as a few minutes' walking in dewy grass rendered them as brown as before.

After breakfast, we walked in the direction of Dr Dunlop's new cottage, on the north side of the river Maitland, and named the Eagle's Nest. The situation seems happily chosen, and the name is characteristic of the owner. We spent a considerable time in examining the vegetable productions of the large islands formed by the river, which, at the time we saw it, was a mere brook, until overtaken by a shower, which compelled us to return to Goderich without reaching the 0185 173 Nest. I understood the islands at the mouth of the Maitland and the adjoining banks, had been granted as a common to the inhabitants of Goderich. The grass was very limited in quantity as well as variety of species, but tall growing weeds of great beauty covered the surface. I do not know whether these plants flavoured dairy produce; but the butter we got at Goderich was so nauseous, that neither my friend nor I could eat this substance for some days afterwards. The butter of Upper Canada was generally of the worst quality.

On returning from our walk we called on Dr Dunlop, at the office of the Canada Company, who introduced us to his brother the captain, recently arrived in the country. I had been furnished with an introductory letter to the Doctor, from a well-known character , both in Scotland and Canada, and which I left with Mr Jones at York. The Doctor seemed busy, and our conversation was limited, which I did not much regret, as I visited America with a determination to judge of matters more from what I saw than what might be told me, and there appeared nothing in the circumstances of the Goderich settlement requiring much explanation.

As Mr Fisher's establishment did not appear of the first order, we determined on dining at the principal hotel, where we were admitted to what Mr Reid termed a family dinner. The table seemed surrounded by all the inmates of the houses, twelve or fourteen in number, including boarders and travellers of all descriptions. Mr Reid presided, and amused me by distributing a tureen full of Scotch broth, with a tea-cup for a divider, and from the shortness of the handle, his fingers were immersed in stirring up the liquid. The entertainment was poor enough, and cost the moderate sum of sixpence sterling.

Having promised, on parting at Montreal with Mr D—, to endeavour to visit, if possible, a friend of his in the neighbourhood of Goderich, who once farmed in one of the finest situations in East Lothian, I felt anxious to witness the proceedings of an East Lothian farmer in so new a settlement as this; and immediately after dinner set out in search of Mr K—, who, we were told, lived about four miles from Goderich, on the shores of Lake Huron. We at first attempted to walk along the margin of the lake; but the quantity of drift and fallen timber which lined the shore, joined to the surge 0186 174 which was rushing from the west with the violence of a tempestuous ocean, rendered this route impracticable. On regaining the banks above the lake, I approached a cottage, and enquired the way. A young gentleman asked me to walk into his house, and he would furnish a hand-sketch of the road. He was employed in mapping for the Canada Company, and his productions did him credit. He told me he was from Edinburgh, and brother to—, a well-known engraver there, and whose name was quite familiar to me. On enquiring the way a second time, a mile or two farther on, I was astonished at a gentleman mentioning my name, when he said he had seen me in Edinburgh, where he was a brass-founder in the Grassmarket, and had only been a few weeks in the country. Notwithstanding the assistance of a sketch of the road, and minute directions received regarding it, we could not find the object of our search, and must have passed the night in the woods, had not the light of the moon, which was fortunately within a night of being full, enabled us to reach Goderich. The road on which we travelled is termed a concession line, and was marked by a blaze or axe-chip on the bark of trees. From this concession line, the different lots of property diverged, and were distinguished by marks which old countrymen could not readily notice; and I have no doubt we passed over the property of Mr K—, without discovering the tract leading to his abode. The concession line, a mile from Goderich, was almost an undistinguishable path, on which a horse or sleigh seemed never to have travelled. The cleared spaces on the different lots seldom exceed a few acres; and while conversing with my friend, I compared our route through the forest to a hare-path in an East Lothian wheat field, and the openings around the dwelling places to the forms of that animal.

Goderich is situated on the margin of Lake Huron, at the mouth of the river Maitland, and consists of about forty mean wooden houses, scattered irregularly over a considerable space. With exception of half-a-dozen of houses, near what is termed the pier, the rest of the village is about 200 feet above the level of the lake, partly on a cedar swamp, through which there is a street of corduroy. The Maitland river, when seen by me, on 28th August, was incapable of floating a canoe, 0187 175 and a vessel, a few tons burden, could not enter the mouth of the harbour.

I found the Canada Company very unpopular at Goderich, although Dr Dunlop is a favourite amongst the settlers, who are of the poorest class, and seemingly without industry or energy of any kind. Indeed, when men despair of overcoming their pecuniary difficulties, which must have been the case with most of the first settlers, they are apt to become both indolent and dissipated. The Canada Company charge 7s. 6d. per acre for land, payable, with interest, by instalments; and when a specified extent is taken, part of the settler's travelling expenses are allowed him out of the second instalment. This is a most disadvantageous regulation for emigrants, being a premium to purchase beyond their means of paying, and an unprofitable locking up, or perhaps rather transfer of capital, which cannot by possibility fail of ending in ruin, as it hath been proved by the whole history of American wood settlers, that they find it difficult, for the first three years, with the utmost industry, to do more than maintain their families. In this case, the interest on the unpaid instalments is more than the cleared part of the farm will yield of profit at the end of five or six years, where a person trusts alone to his personal labour for improving. When all the instalments are duly paid, the price of the forest land, which seldom yields a blade of grass, and is totally unproductive, remains an overwhelming burden on what is cleared. Dr Dunlop told me, that only one of the original settlers continued to hold his land at the time of my visit to Goderich, and alluded to a cause for their removal, which I did not think likely to have produced the effect. The first settlers at Goderich were people of limited means, the majority of them paupers, and they soon became so involved to the Company, as to induce them to leave the district. Many of the recent purchasers, perhaps forty or fifty of them, were working on the Company's roads while I was present, which the Doctor told me was the only means by which they could render payment.

It seems bad policy in a nation overflowing with population to sell a large though distant tract of land to speculators, like the Canada Company, who must seek immediate gain, without 0188 176 regard to the ultimate welfare of settlers, and only pursue revenue without aiming to develope the permanent resources of the district. Such an extent of territory as the Canada company possess, gives a monopoly of land, and a power of enhancing price, operating on the emigrant as a tax, which is transferred to the shareholders in England, instead of being employed on the spot. The affairs of the Company are not likely to be soon wound up, as the lands of insolvent purchasers will, from time to time, return to its management, and the price of land will be raised beyond the demands of the population, as well as let on lease. The political power of the Company will soon be felt, and its minions thrust into the legislature of the country, to the retarding of every local improvement affecting the finances of the Company. The shareholders will ultimately occupy the position of absentee landlords, and become the most avaricious of taskmasters.

The first settlement in the Huron tract having been made in 1829, it would be unreasonable to expect any thing like luxury or old-country comfort in the neighbourhood of Goderich. The habitations of the farmer are generally of the meanest description, and often quite equal in wretchedness to the worst hovels of Ireland and Scotland, and perhaps the notions of many of the settlers lead them to desire no better accommodation. It has already been noticed, that only one of the original farmers retains his possessions, and their successors are an improved race. A change proceeding in this manner may have benefited society, but at present there is a coarse rawness about men and things at Goderich which I felt far from being agreeable.

We left Goderich at seven in the morning of the 28th of August, and about seventeen miles distant, met Mr T—and his friends journeying to Goderich, and resting on the wayside till their horse had fed, and I enjoyed highly a piece of bread which he presented to me. This gentleman had one of his horses stolen by an Indian the night preceding, and which was seen by us grazing with a halter on its head a few miles distant. I had become acquainted with Mr T—in travelling from Montreal to York, and we regretted missing 0189 177 him at Goderich, where his local knowledge, joined to his sound sense, would have rendered him a most desirable companion.

It had rained pretty heavily in the afternoon, and we reached an inn at Aux Sable creek, hungry and wet. In a miserable log-house of two apartments, ten travellers passed the night, partly in beds and partly on the floor. The door was a collection of open boards, and the walls and roof admitted air and light in all directions. The bed which I occupied, in common with my friend, was hard and uneven, and I arose from it unrefreshed. The morning was so cold that I could hardly warm myself by walking, and the rays of a cloudless sun were courted for warmth at mid-day. After travelling nearly seven hours we made seventeen miles, at the end of which I enjoyed the company of an old Irishwoman, cooking pork, potatoes, apples, and tea to breakfast, for a party which had travelled together from Aux Sable creek. This old lady and her husband had been thirteen years on a farm of 150 acres, eighty of which were cleared, and every thing around them looked comfortable. I joined two reapers, and cut a few sheaves in a very fine field of oats, which I was told had been cropped for twelve successive years without an application of manure. After resting the horses, we proceeded on our journey to London.

About noon of the preceding day, I had some conversation with a shipbuilder from Essex, in England, settled on the London road in the Huron tract, and at whose dwelling I made an unsuccessful application for something to eat. Like most settlers, he was full of hope, and extolled the fertility of his soil. On remarking to him that his wheat crop, which had been sown in spring, was destroyed by mildew, he reluctantly admitted the fact, and added that he was assured mildew did not visit the district above once in twenty years; not perhaps being aware that I knew the district had only been inhabited three or four years, and not even visited by a white person more than six years previous to the time of our conversation. Some of this person's family had a sickly appearance, and on questioning him if any of them ever had M 0190 178 ague, he told me several caught the complaint while residing at Hamilton, on Lake Ontario, but it was quite unknown in his present situation. I record these anecdotes as two of the thousand instances which occurred, of settlers lessening the evils, or rather magnifying the advantages, of their situation, and how necessary it is to sift, by reflection, the grain from the chaff of common conversation.

On the boundary of the Huron tract, next to the London district, we passed a negro settlement. The houses of the coloured people appeared of a particular construction, having the chimney-stack on the outside of the log-house, and which stack is composed of thin sawn timber, placed horizontally, and mixed with clay. Their chief crop was Indian corn, well cultivated. Before my departure from Britain, I had heard this settlement instanced as a complete failure, and used as an argument against the emancipation of slaves, then a general topic of conversation. The houses, barns, fences, and general appearances of this settlement are certainly mean enough, but I considered it in most respects equal, and in some superior, to settlements of whites in the Huron tract of the same standing of three years. But admitting, for argument's sake, that this negro settlement had been a failure, the circumstance could not form a good reason of expediency against emancipation generally. When individuals attain maturity in a state of slavery, they will become so demoralized as to be incapable of acting with the feelings and aspirations of freemen and moral agents, and it is the rising and not the risen generation that much improvement is to be expected from. Perhaps the neglected and depressed state in which the poor Irish are reared in their native country is the chief cause of their making improvident settlers in Canada, and continuing hewers of wood and carriers of water over so great a portion of the globe.

The land in the Huron tract is truly excellent, with exception of a few miles around Goderich, which is sandy or gravelly, and some small cedar, ash, and larch swamps, being fine clay with a covering of black vegetable mould. The soil on the road leading from Van Egmont's tavern to London, is particularly fine clay, especially near the Bayfield river, and 0191 179 the whole surface is perfectly level, with exception of the margins of the creeks. The London district is gently undulating, the soil greatly inferior to the Huron tract, and near the village becomes barren sand.

The wood on the road from Goderich to London is chiefly maple, interspersed with beech and elm, the latter being of considerable size. White clover is seldom seen on the waysides, red never, timothy plentiful, and a few plants of cocksfoot. Alder was growing in every place where the forest had been cut down, and put forth shoots of uncommon luxuriance, which seemed to die yearly, as I never observed a trunk or branch of a former year's growth. The species appeared the same as that common in Britain, and perhaps the young shoots cannot withstand the rigours of a Canadian winter.

I observed a wasp-nest in the ground on the Goderich road, where swarms of the insects were passing out and in. They appeared similar to the wasp of Britain; but my friend was not philosopher enough to be prevailed on to try their stinging powers.

On reaching London we stopped at the Robinson hotel, christened a few days previous to our arrival, in compliment to the chief justice of the province, who had honoured the house by his presence while on the circuit. The landlord told us the dinner was over, but that he would prepare something for us immediately. In the meantime we retired to wash, and at the end of an hour and a half discovered it was intended to put off our eating till the arrival of tea hour. We had been treated in the same manner at Brantford; and after remonstrating with the landlord on the impropriety of promising dinner without furnishing it, we removed to the Mansion House hotel, where we experienced civility and attention.

This evening we parted with our waggoner, Francis Packet, who had brought us from Brantford. Unlike his countrymen, he possessed little wit or humour, but he was very good-natured, strictly sober, accommodating, and an excellent driver. He seemed disposed to accompany us throughout the remainder of our tour, and I confidently recommend him and his chestnut horses, John and Charlie, to all who may require their services. Francis was seldom disposed to talk 0192 180 much, but he invariably accosted every person on the road, by saying, in broken English, “How far tavern?”

At Brantford we engaged a waggon in preference to horses, under an idea of its being an easier mode of conveyance, but I am now satisfied our opinion was erroneous, as horseback would have been more expeditious, and less fatiguing than our waggon, over such roads as we travelled. The roads formed by the Canada Company in the Huron tract have been styled good by the Backwoodsmen, and so puffed off in every British newspaper, that Englishmen may be apt to imagine they are Macadamized. They are simply straight lines, formed by felling trees, the branches and trunks of which have been burnt, or formed into corduroy, and the stumps, from two to three feet in height, left standing. I have already alluded to the extent of corduroy, a description of roads which most travellers speak of with horror, and, without meaning to praise it, I must say it was by far the best and smoothest portions of the Goderich roads. The roots projecting from the stumps in a slanting direction kept the wheels and axles of our waggon moving up and down with the regularity of the beam of a steam-engine, and were alike annoying to us, and fatiguing to the horses, and more especially when travelling between Van Egmont's tavern and London. In the neighbourhood of Goderich people were engaged in burning out the stumps, and throwing the earth from the sides into the middle of the road, giving it a convex form, which, in American phraseology, is called turnpiking, and this operation will be extended in time, if settlers have not cash to discharge their engagements to the Company.

London is situated at what is termed the Forks of the Thames, and when the forest is a little more cleared away than at present, few situations will be accounted more beautiful. At present a number of houses are being erected, and the village is rising rapidly into importance. It contains three or four large hotels, many well-filled stores, and a court house, of which the inhabitants feel proud.

On the 30th August we left London for St Thomas and Port Stanley, in a waggon belonging to St Thomas, and enjoyed our drive after the jolting snail pace we had experienced 0193 181 on the horrid roads of the Huron tract. Dining at St Thomas, we walked to Port Stanley, where we remained for the night. Next morning we returned to St Thomas, in the midst of a heavy rain, which confined us to the house for the greater part of the day.

St Thomas seems healthily situated on a bend of Kettle creek, about 200 feet above its waters. Three years ago it consisted of thirteen houses, now there are about fifty. Mr Gregory, at whose hotel we stopt, then had four beds, now he has twenty-five, and is engaged in enlarging his house to twice its present size. There are other two good hotels in the village.

Port Stanley is situated at the mouth of Kettle creek, and has a tolerably good harbour, formed by wooden piers jutting into the lake. This is almost the only port at present on the north side of Lake Erie, and from its proximity to London and St Thomas, its trade will greatly increase. A steam-boat commenced this season to ply regularly from Buffalo, by which a number of British emigrants reach the London district by way of New York and the Erie Canal. Steam-boats also touch in passing from Chippaway to Sandwich and Chatham.

Kettle creek is a small stream running in a deep channel, the banks being clay, and nearly 200 feet high at its mouth on the shores of the lake, from the bosom of which we saw the moon rise majestically, while examining the banks. On Kettle creek there is a carding, grist, and saw-mill, a distillery and brewery, situated between St Thomas and Port Stanley.

At Port Stanley I conversed with a party of emigrants encamped on the wharf, from Argyleshire, Scotland, who had come by way of New York, and seemed in comfortable circumstances. The males of the party had gone into the country in search of relations, who had settled some years before, and the females were anxiously looking for their return. Several women, apparently on the verge of seventy years of age, and infant children, were amongst the number. A middle-aged woman complained to me of the dirtiness of the beds at Port Stanley, and the extravagance of the charges. On the preceding night she had been charged 1s. for a bed. Water to wash her children's faces could not be obtained, and the party 0194 182 preferred lying in the open air to the nasty beds. This was a sensible and well-informed woman, although she had not got quit of her home prejudices in some little matters. The difficulty of obtaining water to wash her children might soon have been got over, by going for it herself to the lake or creek, neither of which were seventy yards distant; and if a vessel for holding water had been denied her, she might have taken the children to the water. People brought up in an artificial state of society must often wonder at their own helplessness on first arriving in Canada. I quite agree with my countrywoman in the dirtiness of the beds in some parts of western Canada. My friend C—much oftener slept on the floor than in the beds; but long before this time my notions of delicacy in this respect had been overcome by reflection, if not blunted by habit, and I reposed as soundly while in Canada, as ever I did in the most luxurious night of my life.

The surface between the village of London and Lake Erie is undulating, varying from clay to sand, and a very small portion can be termed rich. Three miles from Port Stanley the soil is oak openings of the poorest sand. There is a scarcity of running water, Kettle Creek being the only instance seen in a distance of thirty miles. Many orchards are to be met with, and soil and climate seem highly congenial to the apple-tree.

The settlers on what is known by Talbot road, running through St Thomas, and at no great distance from Lake Erie, live in mean log-houses, with miserable barns and fences. The clearances extend from thirty to sixty acres, and improvement of every description seems at a stand amongst them. Labourers' wages were stated at $120 a-year, with bed and board. Wheat, crop 1832, was 2s. 9d. cash, and 3s. sterling, storepay, per bushel. Mr Gregory told me he had purchased good wheat at St Thomas at 1s. 9d. per bushel, and it has been known as low as 1s. sterling.

CHAPTER XXI.

Colonel Talbot's residence—Camp-meeting—Barn—Mrs Aldgeo—Moravian Indian village—Cheap fruit—Runaway slaves—Excursion to Bear Creek—Mr Goose—Soil—Agricultural Notices—River Thames—Unhealthy appearance of inhabitants—Chatham—Plains—John Macdonald—Colborne Furnace—Neighbourhood of Amherstburgh—French inn.

In travelling from London to St Thomas, we were told of a Methodist camp-meeting in the neighbourhood; and as I had long been anxious to see one, we agreed to attend on the Sunday, when the meeting would be fullest. Early in the morning, people, in waggons and on horseback, were streaming in crowds through St Thomas towards the meeting, and as I was afraid of losing patience before evening, when the richest scene is said to take place, we embraced an offer of going to Colonel Talbot's in the forenoon, distant about twelve miles west from St Thomas. The colonel's residence may be described as a cluster of mean wooden buildings, consisting of dwelling-houses, stables, barns, pigstyes, and cattle-shades, constructed and placed seemingly without regard either to convenience or effect, commanding a view of Lake Erie, from which it is distant about 200 yards, and at the mouth of Ottar creek, a small brook, with clay banks of considerable height. The clay banks behind the colonel's house have a barren and naked appearance, while the lake in front is too near. The situation, nevertheless, has capabilities to make a fine place, when taste shall build a habitation. The garden, which was badly kept, contained some fine apple and pear trees, which we viewed from the outside of the fence. There were a few weeping willows, the first I saw in Canada, and which raised the colonel considerably in my estimation, as they are not, I believe, indigenous to the country.

0196 184

The cleared ground may extend to about 200 acres, and is partly clay and partly sand. The fences and general appearance of the place seem to mark the Colonel as an indifferent manager, both with regard to neatness and profit.

On the creek there is a site of a mill, which was burnt down by the Yankees during the war, and which remains unrepaired. The colonel is said to have narrowly escaped being captured at this time, by a party of Americans, who came intentionally to take him prisoner. The colonel, at the time of their arrival, happened, it is said, to be occupied in milking cows in the fields, and thereby escaped detection till he reached the woods.

It was my intention at one time to have introduced myself to the colonel, who was observed standing at his door, when we were only a few hundred yards distant; but the accounts received in the neighbourhood induced me to think there was very little chance of our interview being attended with pleasure, and I withdrew without making his acquaintance.

We returned to St Thomas, which we left at half-past four, in a waggon, for the camp-meeting, and on our way met multitudes of people on their return home. It now became evident we had been too late in visiting the meeting, to see the greatest assemblage, but consoled ourselves that the most fervent worshippers would be more readily distinguished. Our waggon was left within a mile of the meeting, and we proceeded on foot through the forest. The ground in the midst of the forest had been prepared for the occasion, having had the brush or underwood removed, and trees laid in parallel rows, by way of seats, for five or six hundred people. On entering a square, formed by tents, in which the people reside for four or five days together, I was disappointed at the smallness of the assemblage, which did not exceed three hundred souls. Many people were walking up and down, engaged in mirthful conversation, and five or six small groups were standing in different parts, singing hymns in a low tone. At this moment I observed a comely young woman in front of a tent, laughing and nodding familiarly to a numerous acquaintance, which induced me to think she might be engaged in attending a tent for entertaining the company. She bore a striking 0197 185 likeness to a valued friend in Scotland; and while engaged in tracing the resemblance, feature by feature, she and a younger companion jumped into a waggon, and seated themselves in a conspicuous situation, as if wishing to attract attention. On walking round the square, I was riveted to the spot by the sweetness of a young lady's voice, dressed in white, with a very broad gipsy straw-bonnet, and black veil hanging over her shoulder. Her figure was above the middle size, slender and graceful, her features expressive and handsome. She was accompanied by another lady, wearing a bonnet and veil of the same description, and a gentleman, seemingly her sister and brother, and all were engaged in singing. From the appearance of things, I concluded the people had a short time before been engaged in taking tea.

A little while after entering the square, five or six old men placed themselves in front of a rude platform erected for the preachers, and commenced singing in a loud strain; on hearing which the different small parties came and joined the old men. The singing lasted about ten minutes, when praying succeeded, and each individual pronounced a different prayer aloud. At this time a minister placed himself on the platform or pulpit, and in a stentorian voice, ejaculated an impassioned prayer, which, by degrees, excited the feelings of the people below him, and when they reached what he, perhaps, considered the proper key, he descended and joined them on his knees.

I was standing close beside the worshippers, on a trough used for collecting the juice of the maple in spring, leaning my back against a tree, and gazing on the extraordinary scene. Many individuals of both sexes were bellowing at the utmost pitch of their voice, and clapping their hands in seeming transport; others were whining supplicatory strains, and wringing their hands in despair. The comely young woman and her companion, formerly noticed, joined the group in a standing position in the first instance; they soon became bathed in tears, and ultimately joined in prayer in a state of high excitement. A very emaciated old woman, with dishevelled locks of silvery whiteness, shrieked so loud and piteously, that the minister's voice became unheard, and something 0198 186 like a thrill of uneasiness vibrated on my nerves. Such was the confusion and discord, that I was unable to collect two connecting sentences from the prayer of any individual. When the devotees had seemingly reached the highest pitch to which their feelings would strain, the lady with the gipsy bonnet stepped forward near to where I was standing, and commenced singing in the most soothing and melodious tone. She was joined by her sister and brother, and soon afterwards by all the sect. In this manner prayer and praise succeeded each other, during which the feelings of the worshippers were alternately excited and lulled by minister and nymph, like ocean by tempest and calm.

Many bystanders were laughing at the exclamations and postures of the worshippers; others were reading newspapers, or carelessly engaged in conversation. One individual, more prominent in his ridicule than the rest, was rebuked for his conduct by one of the sect, when a controversy ensued between the parties, who were listened to by a crowd collected around them. On approaching the disputants, one was openly avowing his unbelief in the Bible, and the other, without meekness, condemning his sentiments and conduct; but neither possessing the power of arranging an argument, I left them engaged in the hopeless task of trying to convince each other.

There was something so different in the impassioned supplications of the minister, whose aim seemed to be to rouse the feelings, without impressing the minds, of his audience—in the time, place, and manner of addressing the Supreme Being, so different to what I had been accustomed to in the Presbyterian worship of Scotland, that at first I could not believe the sect was addressing the same Deity. The earnest, excited, I may say hysterical, devotions of one party, the indifference and unrestrained scoffing of the other, gave rise to such conflicting emotions, that I arranged to meet my friend in half an hour, and retired from the multitude.

In the meantime, fires had been lighted up on the ground in different parts of the square, one six feet high near the platform, and a few candles were glimmering in the tents. The foliage of the maple and oak, so remarkable for richness and variety of autumnal tints, formed a beautiful canopy over the 0199 187 heads of the people, and, when gilded by the flames of blazing fagots, and intermingled by rising sparks, had a supernatural and solemn effect. Could I have alone contemplated nature unconnected with the part humanity was acting, my enjoyment might have been great, but the wailings of fellow-beings, and the shouts of boys on reaching the ground, disturbed returning repose.

On again approaching my friend, a preacher was thanking the Almighty for the manifestations of his goodness since they had met together, and concluded by requesting all who desired to be released from their sins, to accompany him into another place, and a procession to the place ensued. This consisted of a small enclosure, formed by a single rail of saplings, nailed to the standing trees, in the centre of which were two branchless trunks lying parallel to each other, and is perhaps what is termed the pen. Here the preacher again requested all who earnestly desired to be relieved from their sins, to come within the lines which had been prepared for them.

The whole devotees then prayed promiscuously aloud, and when at the height of excitement, the nymph of the gipsy bonnet commenced singing, standing on the outside of the enclosure, and was joined by the people within.

When the singing ceased, it was announced that Brother Fraiser was to preach, and the people assembled around the shade on the seats prepared for them, after being repeatedly requested to do so. At the conclusion of praise and prayer, a text was given out, and sermon commenced. Mr Fraiser now discovered that he was hoarse, perhaps from previous exertion, and in the midst of his apology to the audience, I took my leave at half-past eight o'clock.

The devotees were few in number, perhaps not more than sixty, and almost either old men or young women, the Irish brogue being conspicuous amongst the former. They seemed of the lowest class, not more than half-a-dozen of well-dressed people being amongst them. There were four ministers.

I could not divine why the pretty creature with the gipsy bonnet did not join in prayer, and commenced singing at the proper time. Could her bonnet and clothes be too fine for 0200 188 kneeling and tossing on the ground like others, or had she a part to act?

At the time of my departure, there might be nearly three hundred people on the ground, including all descriptions, amongst whom were fifteen or twenty females, unconnected with the sect, and a great many boys. On walking from the meeting, many youths were met on their way to it.

It is but justice for me to say, that I did not witness any act of impropriety or indecency by the attenders of the camp-meeting; but whether this arose from the character of the people, the time of night, or my want of discernment, others may determine. The meeting was, however, a small one, and in a part of the country not likely to have furnished many examples of disregardless profligacy. Whether camp-meetings are favourable to the cause of genuine religion, is matter of dispute, and the greater part of those whom I heard speak on the subject, supported the negative side of the question. Perhaps the matter is oftener determined by feeling than reason. It would be presumption to give a decided opinion on so serious a subject, with such limited opportunity of judging; but something extraordinary will occur to induce me again to visit a camp-meeting. This may be prejudice.

On leaving the camp-meeting, we proceeded to a tavern five miles distant, on reaching which we learned that the beds and floors were so occupied, that we could not gain admittance. We, however, obtained permission to lodge ourselves in the barn, which, on scrambling over several rail fences, we found open, and occupied by human beings snoring in full chorus. The mows of grain being of different heights, we ascended to the attics, where we passed the night. The grain seemed to have been lately carried in, its upper surface being moist from sweating, which, joined to currents of air passing through the openings in the roof, rendered me so cold, that I had recourse to my flannel shirt for the first and last time between leaving Montreal and New York. Next morning I awoke from a sound sleep, and, like a dog, put myself to rights by a shake, shouldered my knapsack, and took the road at half-past four o'clock, in as good walking trim as at any former period of my life.

0201 189

The day proved hot—we dined at Delaware, a village of seven or eight houses, situated on the Thames, over which there is a bridge, and the road passes to the north side of the river. I was anxious to be present at a sale of Crown lands, which was to take place at Chatham next day, but we could not obtain the means of transport, and no alternative remained but jogging along on foot. We called at the land-office at Caradoc, and reached Mrs Aldgeo's tavern an hour after nightfall, where we found two gentlemen who had passed us on the road in the afternoon, and one of whom I had seen at York. They were going to the sale of Crown lands at Chatham, which one of them did not reach in time, and the other remained at Mrs Aldgeo's, having been slightly injured by a fall from a waggon.

Mrs Aldgeo's tavern is a log-house of mean appearance, having two apartments—a kitchen, and room for all purposes. It is, however, the most comfortable house of entertainment in this part of the country, owing to the excellent management and good-humour of the hostess. Four individuals slept in the same appartment, in two clean beds, in which we were told, by way of recommendation, the Chief-Justice and Attorney-General had slept a few nights before.

The next morning proved wet, which enabled me to see a little of the economy of the establishment; and I particularly remarked a poor fowl very unceremoniously knocked off a rail fence with a stick, and in the space of twenty minutes presented at table in the shape of an excellent stew. Mrs Aldgeo is a genuine Irish lady, from the old country, and her kindness and loquacity during breakfast, which she served out, were unbounded. She did not always wait for an answer to her questions; and with a few pauses, held forth in the following manner:—

“I was married at the age of twenty-four to Aldgeo, then eighteen and a-half, and the finest-looking man in the world. I lost him six years ago, God rest his soul! it was a sad loss to me as—but of this no more. Yes, my poor dead husband left four horses, fifteen sheep, twenty cows, forty hogs, ox chains, auger, gimlet, and other farm utensils. Will you take something more, Mr—? I will help you to a little more of the fowl; 0202 190 you must eat while under my charge, and not become thin—there, take an egg. Here is an elegant potato from the garden, where they are planted for the old woman, as she has not time to go to the fields. My boy will sometimes say, ah, mother, leave the gentlemen to themselves; but I like to press old-country gentlemen, when not proud. I never press Yankees; them boys help themselves. Yankee women are lazy good-for-nothings, eating cake and sucking sugar all day long. I attend to man and beast. Yes, there is no one to assist me in the house, and I look to the fowls, hogs, and cows; in the evenings, my feet are like to drop out of my shoes. Do you see that field on the opposite side of the road?—my hands burnt all the brush on that field. Do take some of the bread baked by the old woman; I bake some every afternoon—that is handsome bread. The Scotch lawyer below, with the wooden leg, and angel children, brought his pretty little wife here to learn to make bread. I use no barm, but mix two parts of milk and one of water together, add a spoonful of salt, a little flour, and let them stand ten or twelve hours by the fire. Then make the bread with milk, as water gives it a black colour. I make my own soap—oh, darling soap—and never boil it. My boys have not taken wives, but my two eldest daughters are married. Did you observe an elegant store at the comer of—in London? that belongs to my daughter's husband. My youngest girl is at a boarding-school in London, where two ladies from England have lately commenced, and I pay for my girl $39 a-year.”

The rain ceasing about noon, we left Mrs Aldgeo's, and reached Howardbridge to tea, where the road passes to the south side of the Thames. The roads were fatiguing in consequence of their wetness, and we gladly accepted of an offer, made by two gentleman in a waggon, to carry our knapsacks, and in whose company we next day travelled to Chatham, where we spent the night. Some time before reaching Chatham, I obtained a draught of water from a young girl on the banks of the Thames, to whom I proffered a piece of money, which she declined, saying, she never accepted money for such things. At this time my British habits were not altogether laid aside.

The soil on the banks of the Thames, from the point where 0203 191 the St Thomas road joins that from London to Sandwich, is oak openings, seemingly of inferior quality, all the way to Delaware, and from thence, to six miles below Mrs Aldgeo's tavern, poor clay, with small stunted wood. From this, passing through the site of the old Moravian Indian village, the soil is poor sand, and a little farther on, becomes loam of the best quality.

The Moravian Indian village is situated on a bend of the Thames, and the surrounding lands were bearing luxuriant crops of Indian corn. The old village was burnt by the Americans during the last war, and on its site, a mile to the north of the present one, some fine apple-trees are standing, the fruit of which we found agreeable as quenching thirst. Here I observed, for the first time, a species of hawthorn with glossy leaves, of a smaller size, more numerous prickles, branching, and of taller growth than the common hawthorn of the country, and apparently a better hedge-plant. On the banks of the Thames, above Chatham, ( Celestina Scandens ,) a climbing plant, with beautiful orange-coloured berries, was first observed growing luxuriantly on many trees, entwined with the vine. Apple-trees are numerous near the river, and the crop so abundant, that they were breaking under their load. I was offered any quantity of fruit at 1½d. sterling per bushel, gathering it myself. The peaches were also a great crop. A pear-tree was seldom seen.

In the evening, we walked down the banks of the Thames, for the purpose of procuring horses for an excursion, and succeeded in our mission. In returning, we observed two men of colour crossing the river in a canoe, and leading a horse, which was swimming. On entering into conversation with them, I learned they were brothers from Kentucky, and both farmed on lease, one of them renting 190 acres on the banks of the river, fifty of which were cleared, for $20 per annum. On asking if they had run away from Kentucky, one of them answered in the affirmative, and replied, laughingly, I suppose you have also run away. A great many people of colour are settled in the Western parts of Upper Canada, almost all of whom are runaway slaves from the United States.

On the morning of the 5th September we left Chatham for Bear creek, under the guidance of Mr John Goose, who owned 0204 192 a property on the banks of the Thames, four miles below Chatham, inherited from his father, who was one of the original settlers. Mr Goose was a sensible, well-informed man, of a weakly constitution, and had let his farm on shares to a Yankee, by which he obtained half the produce for his labour. Mr Goose rode a brown mare, with a filly foal running at her feet, in the language of the country styled a colt, a term applied to the young of the mares, without regard to sex. My friend C—and I rode chestnuts, or sorrels, without shoes, the reins were stout ropes, and the saddles without panels or girths. On, however, we jogged up the Thames, and crossed over to Bear creek, which we reached about four o'clock, and got some refreshment at the house of Mr Goose's brother-in-law, whom we found sowing wheat. The ostensible object of our journey was to examine some lots of land which had been offered us by letter in the township of Dawne, and regarding the situation of which we could not obtain information till arriving on the creek, when we learned it was in the opposite direction where we were, and so swampy that no person could live on it. We then commenced descending the stream, and passed the night with Mr B—, friend to Mr Goose, sleeping soundly on the floor. Next morning, we descended the creek four or five miles below, where its waters are on a level with those of Lake St Clair, and crossed over to the Thames, which we passed below Chatham in a canoe, swimming the horses by its side. Here we parted with Mr Goose, much pleased with his conduct, paying him $4, or 16s. 8d. sterling, for the services of three horses and himself two days.

The soil, on the banks of the Thames, varies from soft sand to strong clay, and may generally be termed heavy loam. Our first and most easterly line from the Thames to Bear creek was poor sand, gradually improving to fine loam on approaching the creek. The banks of the creek showed the richest description of sandy loam; and much of what is termed bottom land, more especially above Mr B—'s property, is perhaps too rich for first crops. This richest of land, extending to both sides of the creek, and containing a thousand acres, was unoccupied, for sale, and could have been bought at about 0205 193 $3 per acre. Our lower line, from Bear creek to the Thames, was invariably fine loam.

I consider the soil on the banks of the Thames, around Chatham, superior to what I saw on Bear creek, from containing a greater portion of clay; both are, however, excellent, and objectionable only on account of their lowness, and proximity to the marshy plains around Lake St Clair, though only ten or twelve feet above its waters, yet twenty miles distant from its shore. The forest exhibited few cradle knolls, which proves the soil of stronger texture than that of Blenheim, Wilmot, or the neighbourhood of Goderich, cradle knolls being a sure indication of sand, except where trees are prostrated by a whirlwind or hurricane.

The agriculture of the Thames and Bear creek do not merit much notice. Bear creek, and the country between it and the Thames, is very thinly settled, and the clearances of small extent. The habitations are mean, and the inhabitants seemingly poor, and without enterprise or industry. The chief market has hitherto been Detroit, and the population have, in a great measure, been shut out from the rest of the world. Mr B—told me thirty bushels of wheat have been given for a bushel of salt—now five is the price. I did not see a clearance of any extent going on, while some portion of rich cleared soil had been abandoned or neglected; and when overgrown with weeds, and destitute of grass, exhibited complete sterility. Natural clover of any kind was not visible, nor had the seeds of any been sown. The settlers had never applied any manure, and seemed to lead easy lives. The wheat harvest was gathered previous to my visit. Buck wheat was uniformly a poor crop, being injured by drought, and in many cases also by frost. Indian corn was by no means good. A field of barley on Bear creek, as the first crop on bottom land, was destroyed by mildew. A portion of millet on the same field was uninjured, and the only instance in which I have seen such a crop.

Bear creek is a small stream, about half the size of the Thames, and propels two grist mills, and a third at Mr B—'s is being erected. We examined the lowest mill; the N 0206 194 water-power was not economically applied; the house without a door; the machinery entirely of wood; and the whole erection a bauble of the worst construction. There were perhaps fifty small parcels of wheat for grinding in the mill, and six or seven people were waiting to carry away their flour. This mill cannot make marketable flour at present, and its undurable construction may be considered fortunate for settlers. Grist mills are much wanted in the country, none being effective on the Thames, and I was told wheat has actually come from Michigan to be ground at this wretched mill.

The river Thames, the letters of which are invariably pronounced soft by the inhabitants of the country, is of small size, incapable of moving machinery for want of fall, and when seen by me, perhaps not more than equal to the power of a grist mill with one good pair of stones, if fall could be obtained. The banks are low and uninteresting. The water is on a level with Lake St Clair, and is navigable five miles above Chatham.

Having entered the houses of many of the settlers on Bear creek and the Thames, and observed the countenances of hundreds of people seen on roads and in fields, I was particularly struck with the sallow, dried, and sickly appearance of the inhabitants. Perhaps, in the course of three days' travelling, I did not meet half-a-dozen of healthy-looking individuals;—a recently-imported old-countryman could always be distinguished by his complexion, and often, also, by his portliness of figure. While speaking on this subject, Mr Goose did not like the chuncky (stout) appearance of Britons, and could not comprehend why the skin of their faces seemed to creep like Muscovado sugar. Ague was evidently not a stranger to the country; and a lodger in the tavern at Chatham was suffering under the complaint.

Chatham is on the south bank of the Thames. Twelve months ago it was said to contain only five or six houses; now there are nearly twenty. It is visited by steam-boats; and from being situated at what may be termed the head of the Thames navigation, it is certain of rising at no distant day. There is a rumour of making Chatham, instead of Sandwich, the seat of the district courts, which would be a 0207 195 more convenient situation; but the growth of Chatham seems to be independent of this alteration.

After parting with Mr Goose, and dining at Chatham hotel, kept by Mr Cartier, a French Canadian, and who was enlarging his house from an increase of business, we engaged Israel Williams, a man of colour, who owned an excellent farm in the vicinity of Chatham, to carry us with a waggon and pair of horses south to Lake Erie, and round the lake and Detroit river to Sandwich.

Two roads led to Lake Erie, one by what was called the town line, and another across the plains. Having heard much of the plains from Mr Goose, who said all the farmers in the neighbourhood cut hay from them, and that a squatter had been successful in growing crops, although considered barren, I was anxious to see the plains; and accordingly took them on our way to the lake, although Israel Williams had never travelled the road.

We left Chatham about half-past nine, and soon reached the plains, two miles north of Chatham. At the east end, where we passed through, they consist of an area between two and three miles wide, and as far as the eye could reach to the westward, destitute of trees, except small spots here and there, bearing shrubs and stunted trees of various sizes, and which resembled islands in a lake. A number of dwarfish willows were growing in most places, and the grass consisted chiefly of two species, which occasionally reached the horses' ears. A number of beautiful flowering plants adorned the plains, but being thoroughly wet, and rain falling heavily at the time, my botanizing zeal abated, and I contented myself with adding the seeds of four or five to my collection, gathered without descending from the waggon. Williams missed the tract leading into the forest on the south side of the plains, which we perambulated for upwards of an hour, till reaching a house, containing a ragged, dirty, and miserable looking family, a boy of which acted as our guide till entering the forest. We reached what the people of the country call Frogmore-street, a newly opened road leading from Sandwich; from which we were directed to Lake Erie, but missing our way a second time, it was about sunset before we came in 0208 196 sight of the lake, having been nine hours in travelling a distance of twelve miles.

When emerging from the woods on Lake Erie, we passed a camp-meeting of the Jacksonite Methodists, which I felt no inclination to visit. On enquiring to be directed to the nearest tavern, I was told there was not a tavern on the road for thirty miles, but that almost any farmer would receive us for the night.

Our first three or four applications for accommodation were unsuccessful, the houses being filled with the attendants of the camp-meeting; but we at last gained admittance to the house of John Macdonald, from Appin, Argyleshire, Scotland. Application had in this solitary instance been made by Williams, and John reluctantly consented to receive us, under the impression we were people of colour like Williams. John was surprised to find us of the same complexion as himself, and still more so when I said he must be a countryman of mine, from his dialect as a Scotchman. He put a thousand questions about my visit to the country and the state of Scotland, and when satisfied that I was not an impostor, his joy seemed unbounded. John was a true Scotch Highlander in every respect, and spoke the English language in the comic purity, if I may use the expression, of his countrymen,—his phrases of “her nainsell,” and “gosh, man,” being as fresh as if from Appin the day before. I enjoyed his originality, and admired his warmth of heart, amply displayed in anecdotes of his past life, which he continued to relate long after we went to bed.

Next morning I walked over John's farm, consisting of 200 acres of most excellent land, forty of which had been cleared in fourteen years, during which he had not applied any manure, and which I testify had not accumulated to an inconvenient degree. His Indian corn was about the best crop I saw in Canada, with exception of some belonging to the Indians on the Grand River. The quality of his wheat was excellent, and part of his farm carried this crop and peas alternately; the extent of wheat being limited to the assistance he could obtain during harvest. John had two sons on adjoining farms, in the same state as their father's, and a third 0209 197 who had lately married, lived with him. John had twelve acres of good land, which had been gradually cleared in obtaining timber for different purposes, and which a week's work of his son would render fit for cultivation; yet it had remained for years in a state of comparative unproductiveness. He wondered at me not having tasted unripe Indian corn, on which every creature, he said, lived in this country, as they did on herrings in the west of Scotland during the season; and he roasted two ears for me, which I did not highly relish. John's house was very mean-looking, and he accounted for it by the want of saw-mills in this part of the country, which rendered boards dear.

We left John Macdonald after breakfast, and travelled to Colborne Iron-works, in the township of Gossfield, and had a late and uncomfortable dinner where the workmen board. A bed was obtained for us at the house of Messrs Calhoum and Field, proprietors of the works,—which was a log-house of recent erection, plain and rough, externally and internally.

The furnace had been burnt down a few weeks before our arrival, and all hands were engaged in reconstructing it. The whole erection, with exception of the fire-place and chimney-stalk, was composed of wood, and one of the most temporary buildings it is possible to conceive. The bed of ore lies in a marsh a mile and a half distant, and is what is called bog-ore, one or two feet thick, with six inches of peat-earth on the surface; and I was assured by Mr Field that the earth thrown aside two years ago was now fruitful of ore. The iron-work is expected to consume the coke of nearly 200 acres of forest yearly; and the company would clear any farmer's woodland for the coke it produced. This may be worth the notice of settlers, and is given from Mr Field's statement.

We examined some land for sale in the neighbourhood of the iron-works before breakfast; after partaking of which, we travelled a few miles south, to the shores of Lake Erie, round which we passed to Amherstburgh, which we reached in the evening.

Williams had at one time resided at Amherstburgh, and 0210 198 landed us at what he considered the best house, kept by Mrs Drake, which was a large old dingy uninhabited looking tenement. Mrs Drake was seated with Mr M—at tea, or supper, as it is generally called, on our arrival, which suited us well, as we had not dined,—a brace of roasted ducks being on the table.

After tea, we walked down the banks of the Detroit river and Lake Erie four or five miles, and returned through the fields, at some distance from our former line. The evening was clear, calm, and delightfully cool; the still glassy lake adorned with beautiful wooded islands, the American steam-boats, with music playing and unfurled sails, majestically ascending the limped and smooth-gliding Detroit, together with the gracefulness of vegetation and richness of soil, so enchanted us, that we resolved, contrary to our original intention, to devote another day to the neighbourhood of Amherstburgh.

Next morning, Williams drove us up the banks of the Detroit, till we reached the bridge crossing the Canrad, where we parted with him. Ascending the Canrad a little way, we turned to the right, up a flat piece of ground, in the centre of which there is a small brook, and where we spent some hours agreeably in examining plants, and adding to our collection of seeds. We returned through the lands belonging to the Huron Indians to Amherstburgh, and in the evening extended our walk in the direction we had passed the night before.

We left Amherstburgh soon after sunrise, to walk by Sandwich to the town of Detroit, and breakfasted by the way at a small inn with a French sign. The innkeeper had very little English, and we found some difficulty in understanding each other. Our fare consisted of poor green tea, bad butter, and worse bread. There was a fireplace in the kitchen, which was without furniture, except a table and chairs. The room. was well lighted, and separated from the kitchen by a partition of lath, without plaster of any kind. There were two beds in the room without top or posts, with fine rich old printed bedcovers and pillowslips of the same, clean and neatly arranged. The upper story was accessible by a ladder. The father told me 0211 199 his family consisted of six children; the mother and two children had died a few weeks before. The children are at school; the masters seldom remain long, being too fond of whisky.

We arrived at the ferry opposite to Detroit about noon, which we crossed by a steam-boat of small size which plies every quarter of an hour, and took up our abode at an excellent hotel.

CHAPTER XXII.

Horse Hiring—French Inn—Negro Family—Prairie—Supplied with Oats—Mouth of the Thames—Elephant—Yorkshiremen—Want of Conveyance—Old Settler—Prairie—Face of the Country and Soil—Notices of French Inhabitants and their Agriculture—Huron Indians and their Agriculture—Royalists and their Agriculture—Notices of Nature—Detroit River—Amherstburgh—Sandwich—Ferry—Detroit.

My friend C—sailed from Detroit for Buffalo on the 12th September, and next day I commenced a tour into the Western United States, from which I returned again to Detroit, and spent a few days in Canada.

With a view of keeping a connected account of Canada, I shall take up my proceedings on the 18th October, on the morning of which I crossed from Detroit to the British side of the river, on which there is situated a good many houses of different descriptions, with the view of obtaining a horse to proceed to Chatham on the Thames, a distance of fifty miles. Being refused by three different people who kept horses for hire, on what appeared to me frivolous pretences, and thinking they might be afraid of me leaving the horse, and escaping to the States, I offered to deposit the value of the horse with the owner before setting out on the journey. To this arrangement one individual out of the three consented, but demanded for the use of his horse the same hire as if he himself and a pair of horses had accompanied me, as he could not employ himself and the other in my absence. Under these circumstances I returned to Detroit, where I readily obtained a horse, which I entered at the customhouse before setting out on my journey, and again on my return, or rather paid the fees at once. I am not sure if it is absolutely necessary 0213 201 to enter a horse at the customhouse on crossing the Detroit river; and at the time suspected it was as much with the view of obtaining the fees, as complying with law, the owner of the horse requested me to apply at the customhouse with which he was connected.

The road from the town of Detroit, or rather Sandwich, which is on the Canadian side of the river Detroit, to Chatham, passes along the margin of Lake St Clair and the river Thames, and is the chief line of communication with the most westerly and other parts of Canada; yet except in the neighbourhood of Detroit and Chatham, I could not obtain oats or Indian corn to feed my horse. My first application was at the door of a newly erected house on Lake St Clair, in which I observed two young men through the window, and a voice answered to come round to the other door, on tapping at which I was told to come in, and on lifting the latch I found three men and two women, none of whom rose from their seats, or could tell me where my horse could be fed. At length I came to a house near the mouth of the Thames, with a French signpost at the door, where I stopt for an hour, my horse getting only coarse marsh hay.

This inn is situated on a ridge of sand thrown up by the lake, and about two feet above its waters; the surrounding country, for miles on all sides, being a marsh and destitute of inhabitants, another unoccupied house being a few hundred yards distant. Here a Canadian Frenchwoman of prepossessing appearance resided, and who spoke the English language tolerably well. Her husband died the previous year of cholera, and a young man who assisted her since, died a week or two before my arrival, of small-pox, and two girls were then just recovering from the same complaint. She told me a traveller had scarcely entered her door for seven weeks, and there was no one to fetch her oats and other necessaries. My poor horse, which was the roughest-motioned creature I ever bestrode, became tired, and I was anxious to shorten his journey as much as possible.

I called on Mr John Goose, with whom I travelled to Bear creek a month before, and who resided on the Thames, four miles below Chatham. He was in the woods bringing home 0214 202 fire-wood, and was momentarily expected, so I gave my horse some of his hay, and walked out to meet him. Mr Goose readily recognised me; and on learning my intention of wishing to pass the night at his house, on account of the tired state of my horse, was informed, he himself would be happy to receive me, but his wife was not fond of seeing strangers at present when small-pox were rife in the country, his family never having had the disease, or been vaccinated. Knowing the situation in which I had been a few hours before, I did not urge the matter with Mr Goose, although not a thorough disciple of the school of infection, and taking my wearied horse in my hand, proceeded onwards.

I called on Israel Williams, in whose stable I left my horse, and walked on to Mr Cartier's inn, Chatham, where I passed the night. On enquiring for Israel's horses, Pape and Jerry, which carried me round Lake Erie last month, he told me, that, when swimming Pape across the Thames about ten days ago in a canoe, he sunk like a stone, and remained under water two hours, having been, he supposed, seized with cramp. Williams was a runaway negro from the State of Virginia, a smart, active, stout little fellow, in good circumstances, having several stacks of wheat, and six or seven horses of different ages. I was asked to go into his house and see his wife Juliana, who was as stout and glossy black as any negro could desire. They had five or six fine curly-haired children of the same complexion as themselves, none of whom had been at school, as the teacher could not receive children of colour without displeasing his white employers.

Next morning, immediately after breakfast, I rode to the plains which I formerly crossed in a waggon, and, under the guidance of the squatter Mr Cass, had an opportunity of giving them a hurried examination. The plains of Chatham are, beyond all doubt, prairie, extending from Lake St Clair on both sides of the Thames. The east end of the prairie, next to Chatham, is variable soil, embracing sand of different colours, and clay of all textures, generally wet, and seemingly capable of being drained into the river. The wood islands are small, the grass in some parts very luxuriant, and several of the plants similar to those on the Michigan prairies. 0215 203 On advancing westward, the soil improves, and some parts are clay of the first quality. The grass on much of this prairie is four feet high, and as thick as it can stand; no part of Illinois seems richer.

No part of this prairie is cultivated; it is so little above the level of Lake St Clair, that it is doubtful if it can be drained, and much of it at present indicates wetness. I was anxious to ascertain the practicability of draining the prairie; but well-informed people at Sandwich and Detroit told me, instruments for levelling could not be obtained nearer than New York, and all streams being dry, there were no means of approximating the point. Some of the farmers on the Thames maintained there was no difficulty in the matter, and all mentioned Lake Erie, and not St Clair, as the outlet. I had no opportunity of forming an opinion on the subject, but if the drainage can only be effected by Lake Erie, the undertaking will be far too expensive for a private individual; and, in the present circumstances of Canada, not likely to repay a company for the outlay.

Lake St Clair, and the other lakes connected with the river St Lawrence, do not rise and fall by floods and droughts like ordinary collections of water in other parts of the world, yet it is subject to variations at distant periods; and this, I believe, has not been satisfactorily accounted for. The French-woman who keeps the inn at the mouth of the Thames told me the lake was lower now than she had ever known it, and had been falling for years past. She said it continued to rise for years formerly, and drove people from the houses she pointed out, at some distance on the prairie, and thought it now eighteen inches below its highest level. This change of elevation on the lake might affect the prairie, even when drained.

The grass on the margin of the prairie near the Thames, and more especially in the neighbourhood of French church, six or seven miles from the junction of the river with Lake St Clair, is of the richest description, having a large portion of white clover, and cropped as short as teeth could make it. Yet the animals of all descriptions roaming on it, were small, lean, stunted-looking creatures. This, in some 0216 204 measure, may have been owing to their respective breeds, but I could not resist auguring unfavourably of the land from the poverty of the animals grazing on it.

On leaving the prairie I found my horse getting tired; and on applying to a farmer on the banks of the Thames, he readily consented to furnish oats, for which he would not accept of payment. I also was asked into his house, and partook of his hospitality. I could not with propriety enquire the gentleman's name, but learned his farm was Lot tenth, of Concession first. I need not, through this medium, ask him to accept of my thanks, however grateful I may feel, as there is little chance of his seeing or hearing of my lucubrations.

I reached the inn at the mouth of the Thames, where I remained for the night, getting a clean and good bed, fried pork morning and evening, and acting as my own ostler. In the morning I walked over a considerable extent of the shores of Lake St Clair, and the mouth of the Thames. The soil is exceedingly poor, and so wet that animals cannot walk over much of it. Here I saw the Thames steam-boat coming down the river from Chatham, which had a singular appearance when viewed from the prairie, the river being about two feet below the surface, the ground so perfectly level, and without an object of any kind, that the vessel seemed gliding on land.

I left the inn after breakfast, and reached Detroit in the afternoon, with my horse nearly done up. By the way I met an elephant walking on the road towards Chatham, covered with canvass, and attended by two men on horseback. A waggon led the cavalcade, in which I was told there was a lion and some other animals. The exhibiting of animals must yet be an indifferent trade in Canada, when population is so thin and poor.

I met many old-country Yorkshiremen at Detroit. The ostler who received my horse was from that county; a flash fellow, strutting the streets with a scarlet frock coat, collar and pocketlids of black velvet, with top boots and buckskins, was a Yorkshire tailor; and a Yorkshireman was entertaining many listeners in the bar-room of the hotel while dinner was preparing for me, having arrived after the regular 0217 205 hour. This character was dressed in his smock-coat, with tight lacing boots and leggans, as if from his native country a minute before, and was telling cock-and-bull stories about his shooting feats with Lord Liverpool and other great men, as their companion. His language, dress, and appearance formed a striking contrast to the grave, thoughtful-looking Americans, who did not make a remark or alter an expression of countenance indicating their opinion of Yorky; yet they seemed to be eyeing him with a keenness, as if measuring the strength and depth of his character.

After partaking of dinner, I recrossed the river to the Canadian side, walked over some French settlements, and passed the night at Sandwich. The hotel was a poor, dirty, ill-finished place, and more especially the sleeping part of it. Here I met with two gentlemen of the village, whose conversation was of considerable use to me.

Next morning it was my intention to have visited a new settlement, four miles to the east of Sandwich, but I was unable to obtain a horse or conveyance of any kind in this metropolis of Western Canada. The people of the hotels do not in the least degree interest themselves in the proceedings of travellers, and knew of no one likely to hire his horses or waggon. I, however, applied to several French inhabitants without effect; and the day being wet I had no alternative but to walk down the banks of the river to Amherstburgh, where, with the assistance of Mrs Drake, I got the use of a pony from Mr Obrion at a dollar a-day.

Nothing could exceed the wretched equipment of the pony, which was a good one if it had been in condition. But it had run on the common and in the wood until caught for my use; its mane was almost a solid mass of burs, and its hairs so covered with eggs of the bot-fly, that they almost changed the colour of the animal. It was without shoes; the saddle, without girths, was held in its position by a belt passing over it; the stirrups and bridle harmonizing with the saddle.

In the first instance I rode over part of the Huron Indian Reserve with Mr Clark, who had married a squaw of the Huron tribe, by whom he had a family, being originally an American, and having lived in comfort, since the time of his 0218 206 marriage, on the Huron lands. Returning again to Amherstburgh, I rode down the shore of Lake Erie, after dinner, to Mr—'s, where I arrived about dusk. There was no stable for my pony, and it was turned into a field to shift for itself. Mr—was unfortunately from home, and not expected for some days. I found this old settler, who had been born in the country, living pretty much in the style of those who had recently set themselves down, and I partook of homely fare, and slept on the floor. Here I met with a military gentleman of intelligence, whose name is connected with a beautiful island on Lake Simcoe, and who was in search of a desirable lot of land to fix on, to which he was entitled by his services. He expressed a wish to have my assistance in the selection, and offered such terms, that nothing but want of time, and the advanced period of the season, prevented my accepting.

Next morning I rose by daybreak, and caught my pony, on which I rode to the hotel at the shipping place of Colborne iron works, kept by Mr Faux, from whom I hired a horse, to save my pony, for returning to Amherstburgh in the afternoon. I rode on Mr Faux's horse to a prairie some miles to the east of the iron works, which I had heard spoken of in high terms, and which I observed at some distance a month before. This prairie was understood to be for sale, and I called on the proprietor, who was a kind, well-informed old gentleman, showing me personally over the land, and regretting my inability to dine with him.

I found the prairie in question to consist of peat earth, about a foot in thickness, on a wet sandy subsoil, intermingled with marl, which I was able to distinguish by the aid of a spade, and test by vinegar. It was of small size, very picturesque, and not likely to repay the expense of draining.

I again mounted the pony at Mr Faux's hotel, and reached Amherstburgh in the evening, having examined four farms that were for sale in course of my excursion. Time was now pressing me; and being anxious to see an individual in Sandwich, and a farm in the neighbourhood, I engaged Mr Obrion to take me early in the morning to Sandwich in a cart.

I called Mr Obrion out of bed some time after the hour he 0219 207 appointed to meet me, and he was so long in getting every thing put to rights, that I walked over the common on foot. He, however, soon overtook me; but declining to go beyond a pace faster than I could walk, I leapt from the cart, and proceeded on foot, breakfasting at a French inn, stopping at Sandwich two hours, and bidding adieu to Canada, by crossing over to Detroit about noon.

Having, on my different visits to Canada, passed completely round the peninsula formed by the Thames river, Lake St Clair, Detroit river, and Lake Erie, I shall describe the face of the country through which I passed.

On leaving Chatham for the south, the soil from that place to Lake Erie, with exception of the plains already noticed, was clay of excellent quality, the surface level, and apparently wet near the margin. In passing up the shores of the lake, the soil was variable, being sometimes clay, and sometimes sand, the latter greatly preponderating. Some parts of the lake shore were unsettled, and scarcely a recent clearance was discernible. In the townships of Tilbury and Marsea, some farms had been deserted, which had a most barren aspect, being overrun with weeds, and scarcely producing a blade of grass.

The surface in the township of Gosfield, near the iron-works, differs from any seen in the peninsula, being undulating, and, in the language of the place, a handsome country. The land is not of the best quality, and for the first time in Canada, I walked over a gravelly soil.

The townships of Colchester and Maldon are not much above the level of the lake, and the road passes through a sandy soil generally, and sometimes thin clay of bad quality. In the former there are oak openings, the soil of which is poor sand. The soil of Maldon seems superior to that of Colchester, and improves, on approaching Amherstburgh, to the finest quality. In both townships there are a good many people of colour, who generally rent the farms on which they reside, or obtain so many years' possession, on condition of clearing a certain extent of wood. A considerable quantity of tabacco is here grown, chiefly by the black population.

The country from Chatham to Lake Erie in the township 0220 208 of Tilbury, and round the lake to Amherstburgh, seems badly watered, not having seen above two rills passing into the lake. In Colchester and Maldon, there are occasionally stagnant branches of the lake, like canals or channels of a stream, jutting into the land to a considerable distance, and which I was told terminate in swamps, and prove the greatest, if not the only, natural objection to the country.

About a mile from Amherstburgh, on the river Detroit, commences a tract of country known by the name of the Huron Reserve, extending seven miles along the banks of the river, and seven miles back from it.

For the first four miles of this Reserve, in passing from Amherstburgh, the river, which is here perhaps the most beautiful in the world, is upwards of twenty feet below its banks, the soil a rich crumbling clay, and is one of the loveliest spots in Canada. Above this, the banks sink to the level of the river, and there is an extensive tract, six or seven miles in length, and two or three in breadth, covered with tall aquatic plants, which impart a pestilential aspect to the country, and must form one of the best nurseries in the world for ducks and mosquittoes. On approaching Sandwich, the banks again rise above the river, and maintain their elevation until a little above the ferry at Detroit.

From the termination of the Huron Reserve to Sandwich, the soil on the river is inferior, and the road, on entering the village, passes through what has originally been an oak opening of poor gravelly soil, and is still covered with oak bushes, intermingled with inferior pasturage. Above Sandwich the soil is good on the banks, and continues so as long as the elevation above the river is maintained. This part of the country is inhabited by the descendants of the French, and not a trace of the original forest remains.

A mile or two above the ferry at Detroit, and approaching Lake St Clair, the banks are low, and tracts of marsh fall back into the country. Around Lake St Clair there is some tolerable soil, elevated about two feet above its waters, and a small wet prairie or two, besides that at the mouth of the Thames. There are few settlers, scarcely a vestige of cultivation, and one or two recent clearings of insignificant extent.

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The banks of the river Thames are nearly on a level with the waters of Lake St Clair, and gradually rise on approaching Chatham, where they are fifteen or twenty feet high. They have long been cleared of the forest, descendants of French settlers residing below, and those of British Loyalists above. Both classes of inhabitants seem to cultivate only what is necessary to supply their wants, and have made no inroads on the forest or prairie for many years. The extent of cultivated land is limited, and everywhere celebrated in Canada as the best in the world. The soil on the south banks of the Thames, from Chatham to its mouth, varies from the finest brown-coloured loam to indifferent sand, the former being of limited extent. I do not mean to damn this favourite spot with faint praise, but while I admit there is some loam as good as man could wish, I contend it is not generally of such a description. No competent judge of soil need remain long in doubt on this point who visits the situation, and I shall only particularize a field above Mr John Goose's house, which was being fallowed when I was there, and which I pronounce not good soil. The state of the crops might be adduced in evidence of my opinion, especially that of Indian corn, which was not equal to that on some parts of the shore of Lake Erie, more especially that belonging to John Macdonald.

Of the land in the interior of the Peninsula, I am unable to speak, with exception of what was seen passing from Chatham to Lake Erie, and which I found of superior quality. I have already noticed that few running streams join Lake Erie, and the same remark is applicable to Detroit river and Lake St Clair. Several rivers are laid down on maps as flowing into the south side of Lake St Clair, but at the time of my visit the mouths of all of them, with a single exception, were closed with sand on the margin of the lake; and I could not determine whether their waters filtered through the sand bars into the lake, or those of the lake into the channels or canals running into the land.

The greater part of the inhabitants in and around Amherstburgh and Sandwich, the banks of Detroit river, Lake St Clair, and the mouth of the Thames, are descendants of the O 0222 210 French, who settled in this part of the country about the year 1670. They still retain the language, appearance, and many of the customs of their ancestors. Like the Lower Canadians, they seldom engage in commerce or manufactures, and settle together on long narrow lots of land, in streets or villages, and cut down every forest tree. In Lower Canada the French population have no orchards, except on the sides of the mountain at Montreal, but here almost every settler on the Detroit river has an orchard. I did not observe in the gardens of the French a single pear, plum, or peach-tree, but apples were very abundant, and cider-presses frequently met with. The inhabitants do not seem so light-hearted or polite a people as those of the lower province. They do not notice strangers in passing, and I only observed two boys bow to me at Sandwich, while every man, woman, and child does so in the neighbourhood of Montreal. The houses are generally brick, and occasionally frame, but seldom with the stone basement of the lower province. The beds of the inhabitants are sometimes without, and sometimes with, posts and curtains, and, in every case which came under my notice, very clean.

On some parts of the river Detroit, Lake St Clair, and on the Thames, many people reside literally amongst water, passing to and from their houses on planks.

The French Canadians are said to be averse to clearing forest land, and perhaps as population increases, they prefer occupying swamps to clearing dry land. The appearance of the inhabitants residing in such situations was unhealthy. Around Lake St Clair, the inhabitants seem to be employed in preparing firewood for the town of Detroit.

The French inhabitants have a great dislike to service of any kind, and more especially to females going out as cooks. The women seem industrious, and often drive the produce of the farm to market in carts. Some children were seen running about in their shirts, as in Lower Canada, even when the weather was cold.

The French seem to have little system in their farming, growing wheat, Indian corn, and grass. They plough with 0223 211 oxen and a driver. The sheep are similar to those of the lower province, many of them being black-coloured, with a little white on the face and neck. The oxen are of different colours, somewhat larger than those of Lower Canada, and many of them are without horns. The horses are small, and perhaps not equal to those of Montreal.

In several instances I examined a machine with which the French inhabitants were thrashing out grain. This was a beam twelve or fifteen feet in length, with projecting spars like the spokes of a wheel, resting on the ground at one end, and rising with an elevation to suit the draught of a horse at the other. The lower end of the beam was without spars, which increased in length according to the elevation. As the horse moves in a circle, the beam revolves, which brings the spars successively in contact with the grain spread on the floor, and by which means it was beat out from the straw.

This mode of separating grain from straw is evidently the first step from treading it out by animals, and is, perhaps, as old as the flail. An economizer of labour would have strewed the gangway of the horse with grain, so that it might have assisted in the operation, by treading with its feet. I have not been able to learn if this plan is known in France, or any other part of the world. It has not been adopted by the Americans or British Canadians, although it must be an assistance to, if not calculated to supersede, the treading of animals.

The Huron tribe of Indians, residing near Amherstburgh, are few in number, extending only to ten or twelve families, and from their long intercourse with Europeans, most of the present generation seem to have a mixture of white blood in them. They have long been Christians in connexion with the Catholic church, and have adopted most of the habits of civilized life. They have orchards, numerous herds of cattle, horses and pigs; the cattle being the best I saw in the western part of Canada, and which I attribute to the superiority of the pasturage. On the 24th October, I observed a Huron Indian harrowing sown wheat with a triangular harrow on as well formed ridges as any I saw in Canada.

The Huron Indians were understood to have sold part of 0224 212 their reserve in the neighbourhood of Amherstburgh to the British Government. Mr M—had been appointed to survey the purchase, and with this view was residing at Amherstburgh during the time of my first visit. The Indians, under some pretext, would not, however, allow the measurement to proceed, and Mr M—got orders from York to delay the survey.

The inhabitants of Amherstburgh are anxious, almost clamorous, to have the Huron Reserve, in the vicinity of the village, exposed for public settlement, which would, in all probability, promote its increase and prosperity. It is not my intention to enter into the merits of the policy of removing the Huron Indians from their situation on the southern part of their of their territory. But in the event of the lands falling into the possession of the present inhabitants of Amherstburgh and its vicinity, I question if the change would be for the better, as the landholders seem incapable of managing or appreciating the great advantages nature hath placed within their reach. The white man strongly displays the frailty of his nature in envying this remnant of his copper-coloured brother's inheritance, while so many millions of acres in Canada are unoccupied.

A considerable portion of the inhabitants on Lake Erie, in the townships of Maldon, Colchester, and the banks of the Thames, are descendants of the Royalists who left the States at the time of their becoming independent, and who obtained grants of land in Canada from the British Government. Like other colonists in this vast continent, who have been shut out in a great measure from intercourse with the world, they have been content to live without an apparent desire to improve their condition. Their extent of clear forest is limited, and few additions have recently been made. The dwelling-houses and farm-offices are of the shabbiest kind, and only two brick houses were seen in a distance of twenty-seven miles, passing from Amherstburgh round Lake Erie. A brick house is also a rare sight on the Thames, wood being almost the only building material.

In this part of Canada, farming is as low as in newly settled districts, and embraces the cultivation of wheat, oats, peas, 0225 213 Indian corn, and tobacco—wheat and Indian corn being the chief crops. In many instances wheat had been sown amongst growing Indian corn, and ploughed in between the drills. This is an excellent plan, the wheat being well advanced when the Indian corn is reaped. Oxen are employed in ploughing generally, and all operations are performed in a superficial manner. I observed a crop of buck-wheat being carried in the township of Gosfield, on 24th October. Two horses were attached to a sleigh, and two men on the ground were building small sheaves on the sleigh with their hands, neither of them having a pitchfork. A trifling load was taken off the field, attended by the two men already mentioned; and after being upset, a man and two boys placed it in the barn. The carrying of this crop would have been effected at one-fourth of the labour in Scotland, where the division of farm labour is properly understood. Extensive orchards are everywhere met with, and the crop of apples was immense, so much so, that they sometimes remained ungathered. The horses, oxen, sheep, and pigs in this part of Canada are all inferior in kind; and if such a thing as a good sized horse can be found either for the saddle or draught purposes, which I very much doubt, it must have come from the States.

The implements of husbandry are such as are common to the country. Several grist-mills are propelled by oxen walking on an inclined plane, and are very poor machines. A good many grist-mills are also propelled by wind, chiefly amongst the French inhabitants on the shores of Detroit river and the lakes, and also some by oxen or horses attached to a large wheel, moving horizontally a few inches from the ground. I was given to understand a steam-power grist-mill was about to be erected at Sandwich, by a capitalist lately arrived in the country, and I imagine will be chiefly employed in grinding wheat from the States.

The trees do not materially differ from those in other parts of Canada, with exception of sweet chestnut being common on the shores of Lake Erie. This tree is generally found on poor sandy soil, and seems to occupy the place of the pine in the districts to the north and east. In passing round Lake 0226 214 St Clair, I thought I observed the pawpaw growing near the commencement of Detroit river, but the plants being small, I could not determine their identity. Future travellers may be better able to settle this point, as I scattered some seeds of the pawpaw, which were in my pocket, and which I gathered in Ohio a few days before.

The turkey is said to inhabit this district in considerable numbers, and the boy who conducted us out of Chatham plains told me he had come on a hen and her brood a short time before, but this bird was not seen by me. The pheasant and quail are numerous, and so tame that you may approach within a few yards of them on open ground. Ducks of various kinds inhabit the waters, and more especially Detroit river, in vast numbers; and many of the species are so tame, that, schoolboy like, I pelted them with stones in open water without their taking wing. Several kinds of geese also frequent the waters, but it is only in autumn, when they and ducks congregate in such numbers, preparatory, perhaps, to moving south for the winter.

Birds of prey are numerous. Near the mouth of the Thames I observed a bald eagle perched on a decayed tree, and which was the only one I saw in Canada. Buzzards were seen frequently, gliding gracefully in circles, and in company, though at considerable distances from each other. Many hawks of different sizes, and small eagles, were observed on the shore of Lake Erie, sitting inactive on trees, or fighting with each other about a favourite resting-place. On one occasion, near Chatham, a hawk singled out a small bird for its quarry which frequents the banks of the Thames, without the power of swimming. The little creature was above the centre of the river when attacked, and avoided a death-blow by diving under water with a shrill cry. It no sooner, however, left the element than the hawk made a second swoop, which was again avoided by going under water, and by a succession of dives and flights, it at last found shelter amongst some bushes on the banks. There are vast numbers of what are here called blackbirds, consisting of two kinds, and both highly destructive to the farmer, devouring almost every species of produce, and especially Indian corn; they breed 0227 215 amongst reeds, and find the marshes of the Detroit an excellent cover. There are squirrels of various kinds, striped, black, and brown; the former live in the ground, and the two latter are occasionally shot and used as food. Racoons are often hunted, and valued on account of their skins.

The river Detroit issues from Lake St Clair, and falls into Lake Erie, after a south-west course of about twenty-eight miles. The waters of the greatest lakes in the world, Superior, Huron, and Michigan, pass through the channel of the Detroit, which, at the narrowest point, is about 800 yards wide, and above as well as below this place, expands several miles in breadth. The current seems to run at a rate of between two and three miles an hour, and the water is as limpid as that of the purest spring, except when slightly tinged with earth, caused by the waves during a tempest. The largest steam-vessels pass up at all times, and navies might contend on its waters.

The village of Amherstburgh is situated near the confluence of Detroit river with Lake Erie, opposite to a small island, between which and Amherstburgh the main body of water passes. The houses are almost entirely of wood, arranged into streets at right angles with each other, and almost all bespeaking poverty and meanness. There are Catholic, Episcopalian, and Presbyterian places of worship, besides schools, and the population is about 500. Most of the inhabitants are of French descent. Trade is very limited, and thought to be declining. Every vessel passing up and down the Detroit comes within 100 yards of the pier, which is at all times accessible to the largest class. Fort Maldon, a paltry mud erection, is situated on the banks of the Detroit, about half a mile from the village, and the military reserve around the fort, which is the best of pasturage, is occupied as common. Amherstburgh is one of the oldest places in Canada, situated in its finest climate, the best British port on Lake Erie, and in beauty and healthiness of situation, inferior to no place in America; yet every thing, with exception of two handsome residences below the town, seems in a state of listless decay. I have no doubt there are better days in store for Amherstburgh.

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Sandwich is also on the Detroit, sixteen miles above Amherstburgh, and derives its only importance from being the county town. The houses compose an irregular street, running along the river, and chiefly occupied by French. The trade of Sandwich is more limited than that of Amherstburgh, and I do not think it has the same chance of progressing.

About a mile and a half above Sandwich is the ferry at Detroit, at which there are fifteen or twenty houses on the Canadian side of the river, and several brick buildings were being erected at the time of my visit. This place will soon eclipse Sandwich, and may rival Chatham. Detroit is the great market of Western Canada, and the ferry possesses advantages, in proximity and access during winter, above every other situation. Since leaving Montreal, I had seen no place bearing the marks of age and wealth, and the town of Detroit, situated on the magnificent river of the same name, ranks next to that city in appearance; and in recalling old-country associations, forms a striking contrast to the poverty and lifelessness of Amherstburgh and Sandwich, on the opposite side of the river. Lofty spires and large brick buildings are seen in the distance; steam-vessels, and engine-stalks, employed in manufactures, on a near approach. A fine large steam-boat leaves Detroit daily for Buffalo, and smaller ones for less distant places on the north and south. Now and then a steam-boat plys to Chicago and other places on Lake Michigan, and in course of a year or two it is probable there will be a daily line of boats. There are three streets running parallel to the river, and many at right angles. The houses in the principal streets are of brick. The population exceeds 3000 souls, the greater part of whom are of French descent.

CHAPTER XXIII.

Journey from Detroit to Chicago—Thrashing Machine—Face of the Country in Michigan—Prairie Hen—White Pigeon Prairie—Travelling Party—La Porte—Cooking Breakfast—Jaded Horses—Thunder—Storm—Hovel on the Shore of Lake Michigan—Face of the Country—Notices of Nature—Chicago—Indian Treaty—Horse-racing£Intoxication—Fair—Occurrences at Chicago.

On the 13th September, I left Detroit, early in the morning, in a stage for Niles, which was drawn by four horses, and well filled with passengers. We breakfasted at the distance of twelve miles, the hotel being a solitary house, the name of which has escaped my memory.

Here I examined a thrashing-machine, worked by four horses, attached to the ends of two rough poles moving two small horizontal wheels, a few inches from the ground, round one of which was a leather belt moving in a wood case, and connected with the drum or beater placed in the barn. The machinery in the barn consisted simply of a beater, without rollers, shaker, or fan. The board over which the grain slides to the beaters, had a few upright spikes, which formed the only detaining power to the grain while passing the beaters. This machine would not cost more than L.8 sterling, but its imperfections in shaking and fanning, as well as in beating out the grain, which I discovered on examination, render the saving of first-cost injudicious.

Our roads, for the first stage or two, were very bad, and perhaps affected the passengers, eight in number, who did not exchange half-a-dozen words during the first day. In course of the second day, a few short questions were put and answered, and on our arrival at Niles, on the evening of the third day, nothing like familiar intercourse had taken place.

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Niles is a small place on the river St Josephs, and said to be twelve or fourteen miles from Lake Michigan. In our route from Detroit, we had passed through the territory of Michigan, in a south-westerly direction, crossing most of the rivers, near their source, which flow into Lakes Erie and Michigan; and I experienced considerable disappointment at the general aspect of the country, which, with the exception of about twenty-five miles next to Detroit, was found to consist of oak openings. The soil is chiefly sand, and exhibits few marks of fertility. The trees are stunted oaks, of about thirty feet in height, and so thinly scattered, that a man may frequently clear an acre in a day. The surface is gently undulating, and, from the thinness of the trees, and frequency of streams, lakes, and prairies, highly picturesque. The lakes sometimes assume the character of marshes, and many of them contained small eminences, or islands, covered thickly with trees of a different species from those growing on another, at a few yards distant, or on the margin of the marsh. The district is still very thinly settled; and in passing along, I wondered what had become of all the people who of late years have been pouring into Michigan from the eastern states, forgetting the extent of territory, and that it has become the common route for settlers moving to the fertile and extensive tracts lying to the south and west of Lake Michigan. The houses, with the exception of those in villages, are mere log-huts.

We breakfasted at White Pigeon, on the third morning of our journey, at a well-regulated hotel, where some broiled ruffed grouse, called, in the language of the country, prairie-hen, was presented at table, and in praise of which, some of our taciturn fellow-passengers became loquacious. The particulars of the discussion may have been highly valuable, but I was too busily employed in displaying my opinions by actions, to note down the conversation.

White Pigeon is a small pretty village, composed of well-painted frame-houses, and in neatness and apparent comfort resembling some of the residences in New England. It is situated on the skirts of White Pigeon prairie, one of the most beautiful and fertile prairies in Michigan, and to which, perhaps, the whole territory is indebted for much of its celebrity.

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White Pigeon prairie is an interesting spot to those who have long looked on the interminable forests and small clearances of Canada, being a level surface of many miles extent, thickly interspersed with good farm-houses and barns. To me the change was truly gratifying, and gave rise to a thousand associations connected with other parts of the world. An old farmer from New England, on his way to join a son in Illinois, could not contain himself, and exclaimed,—“Surely this must have been the place where Adam and Eve resided.”

On examining the soil of White Pigeon prairie, I found it composed of black gritty sand, thickly interspersed with glittering particles of spar. The inclosures were large, and without ridges. The crops had been gathered, with the exception of Indian corn, which seemed good. The weeds growing on the surface were of no great strength, amongst which were two kinds of grass. I did not observe sown grasses or clovers, and the latter does not grow naturally. It is said many English farmers are settled on White Pigeon prairie, who have good thrashing-machines. There is a small prairie to the east of White Pigeon, and a large one to the west, through both of which we passed. These prairies do not seem fully occupied, and the land is said to sell at from $3 to $6 per acre, government price being $1¼.

The ruffed grouse, or prairie-hen, abounds on White Pigeon and the adjoining prairies, to which some gentlemen resort for the purpose of shooting. This bird resembles in colour the fem