E. D. J.
Feb. 26.13

INTRODUCTION

IT is not given to everyone to be a collector of fine books and rare first editions. The prizes are reserved for the millionaire. But the most modest bibliophile, by the pursuit of one special subject, may get together a collection valuable for other reasons. I do not know that I deserve so ambitious a name as bibliophile, but I have no doubt as to the value of the collection of cookery books about which it has been my pleasure and privilege to write. I admit that to the moneyed book-hunter, though he would envy me a few of my volumes, a great number, from his point of view, might seem poor trash. Nor do I claim for my collection completeness. I would not be so foolish with those two thousand five hundred entries in M. Vicaire's Bibliography forever haunting me as a reproach. But then, M. Vicaire does not own the two thousand five hundred books, and I very much doubt whether any one individual ever will. The collector is but mortal. All I claim is that my collection has grown to respectable and, I believe, unrivaled proportions, and

As for the subject, mine first by chance and now by preeference, it needs no apology. Everybody eats and everyybody should enjoy eating. The old asceticism that held pleasure in food to be gluttony, and consequently one of the seven deadly sins, has all but disappeared. Even Woman has tkrown off the traditional shackles and is no longer ashamed of an honest appetite. It is too late now for the novelist, however romantic, to carry her through the serious crisis of her life, with Fielding's Sophia, on “a little sack-whey made very small and thin.” The new generation believes with Brillat-Savarin that love of good living is by no means a blemish in woman, though, perhaps, as yet, not everyone would go to his lengths and believe that a pretty woman is never prettier than when at table. In one way, something of the old prejudice lingers. It is still considered demorallizing, or, at least, “bad form” to think much about food and drink. But this is a mistake. It was when men and women began to think about eating that they developed it

Neither does the study of Gastronomy through the ages call for an explanation. “Tell me what you eat, and I will tell you what you are” is the fourth in Brillatt-Savarin's list of Fundamental Truths. It would be more to the purpose to explain why the historian and the philosopher have hitherto paid so little heed to the subject. The world still waits for the Carlyle who will write for it a Philosophy of Food. When he comes he will find in my collection the material made to his hand.

But if eating were not an art, if food had not its philoosophy, my books would still be amusing, and that is their great recommendation. No black-letter man, nor tall copyist, nor uncut man, nor rough-edge man, nor early English dramatist, nor Elzevirian, nor broadsider, nor pasquinader, nor old brown calf man, nor Grangerite,

The illustrations speak for themselves. The old title-page always has charm, and, in the cookery book, it has besides a character of its own. It served the author the purpose of the modern tradesman's poster or advertisement until, at times, it seems as if his one object had been to sum up upon it the entire contents of his book. The portraits that appeal as frontispieces are, to me, an endless source of delight. What new dignity a cookery book acquires when a queen or a man of title presides over it! And with what increased deference one reads the receipts of the chef who evidently takes himself as seriously and solemnly as Robert May or E. Kidder! I wish I could give all the portraits. But it would be unfair to my collection if I did not also show some of the amazing allegories which occasionally replaced the portrait as frontispiece, and of which the plates from Les Dons de Comus and Dr. Lister's edition of Apicius Coelius are typical examples. There are, moreover, the illustrations in the text. I should like nothing better than to include the commplete series of plates from Scappi's book, for nowhere else that I know of is there so interesting and full an inventory

It is impossible, however, to exhaust a collection like mine in a single volume. I can only hope that what illustrations there are, together with my praise, all too feeble, of the irresistible text, will send the curious to the originals. Though, in self-defense, it might be wiser to restrain the ardor of the enthusiast until a few of the more glaring gaps on my shelves have been filled.

ILLUSTRATIONS

COLOPHON : COELIUS APICIUS, 1498 . . . Opposite page 6
TITLE : THE COMPLEAT COOK, 1655 . . . 14
TITLE : THE QUEEN'S CLOSET OPENED, 1655 . . . 16
PORTRAIT OF ROBERT MAY . . . 26
TITLE : FOURTH EDITION OF MRS. GLASSE'S ART OF COOKERY, 1751 . . . 42
TITLE : A COLLECTION OF ABOVE THREE HUNDRED RECEIPTS, ETC., 1719 . . . 58
FRONTISPIECE: LISTER'S COELIUS APICIUS, 1709 . . . 68
TITLE : FIRST EDITION OF COELIUS APICIUS . . . 76
TITLE : LA SINGOLARE DOTTRINA DI M. DOMENICO ROMOLI, 1560 . . . 82
BANQUET OF CARDINALS: SCAPPI'S OPERA, 1570 . . . 84
THE VATICAN KITCHEN: SCAPPI'S OPERA, 1570 . . . 88
FRONTISPIECE: LES DONS DE COMUS, 1758 . . . 92
PLATE FROM LE GRAND ECUYER TRANCHANT . . . 96

TITLE : NUEVO ARTE DE COCINA, 1760 . . . 106
TITLE : DE RE CIBARIA, 1560 . . . 112
KITCHEN UTENSILS, ETC. : SCAPPI'S OPERA, 1570 . . . 114
TITLE : LA VARENNE'S CUISINIER FRANÇ0IS, 1656 . . . 120
TEAPOTS : LE BON USAGE DU THÉ, ETC., 1687 . . . 122
TITLE : L'ART DE CONSERVER SA SANTÉ, 1753 . . . 126
TITLE : LA CUISINÈRE BOURGEOISE, 1777 . . . 128
TITLE : GERVASE MARKHAM'S ENGLISH HOUSEWIFE, 1631 . . . 132
FRONTISPIECE : THE QUEEN'S CLOSET, 1668 . . . 136
PORTRAIT OF SIR KENELM DIGBY . . . 138
PLAN OF THE TABLE : COMPLEAT CITY AND COUNTRY COOK, 1732 . . . 148
PORTRAIT OF EDWARD KIDDER . . . 150
TITLE : FIRST EDITION OF MRS. GLASSE'S ART OF COOKERY, 1747 . . . 154
WOOD ENGRAVING BY JOHN BEWICK FROM THE HONOURS OF THE TABLE, 1788 . . . 162
TITLE : ARTE DE COCINA, ETC . . . 168

IT was something of a shock that I woke one morning and found myself a collector of cookery books. I am not sure which seemed the more extraordinary, — that there should be cookery books to collect, or that I shoul dbe collecting them. I had thought — if indeed I had thought anything about it — that Mrs. Rorer and Cassell's Dictionary exhausted the literature of the subject, though I had heard of Mrs. Glasse: partly because the “First catch your hare,” which she never wrote, long since passed into a classical quotation; and partly because, when I first came to London, George Augustus Sala was still writing the newspaper notes he could rarely finish without a reference to “good old Hannah Glasse.” However, had I known then, as I do now, that cookery books are almost as old as time, my principles — and my purse — were against collecting anything, especially in London,

I had undertaken, in an ambitious moment, to write a weekly column on cookery for the Pall Mall Gazette, when my only qualifications were the healthy appetite and the honest love of a good dinner usually considered “unbecoming to the sex.” To save me from exposure, a friend gave me Dumas' Dictionnaire de la Cuisine, the masterpiece of that “great artist in many varieties of form,” to quote Mr. Henley, as it is appropriate I should, since he was the friend who came so nobly to my aid. The book was useful beyond expectation. I borrowed from its pages as lavishly as Dumas had, in compiling it, helped himself from the dishes and menus of Beauvilliers and Vuillemot. The danger was that I might borrow once too often for the patience of my readers; and so, chancing presently on the uniformly bound works of Carême, Etienne, and Gouffé in a second-hand bookshop, I bought them, without stopping to ask if they were first

Anyhow, my sin has not been the “unlit lamp and the ungirt loin.” If it be a mistake to collect, at least I have collected so well that I have yet to find the collection of cookery books that can equal mine. It may

The reason for pride may not be clear to the average woman, who looks upon the cookery book, at its best, as a kitchen Baedeker, or to the average man, who would consider it unmanly to look upon it at all. But that is simply because the average woman and the average man do not know. The cookery book has every good quality that a book can have. In the first place, it makes a legitimate appeal to the collector, and M. Vicaire and Mr. Hazlitt show what the bibliographer can do with it.

Man, the cooking animal, has had from the beginning a cooking literature. What are parts of the Old Testament, of the Vedas, but cookery books? You cannot dip into Athenæous without realizing what an inspiration food and drink always were to the Greek poet. As for the Romans, from Virgil to Horace, from Petronius to Lucian, praise of good eating and drinking was forever their theme, both in prose and in verse. Early French and English historical manuscripts and records are full of cookery; and almost as soon as there was a printing press cookery books began to be printed, and they have kept on being printed ever since. It would be strange if, among them, there were not a few that provided the excitement of the hunt and the triumph of conquest. For the lover of the early printed book, there are the De Honesta Voluptate of Platina, 1474; the Viandier of Taillevent, — about 1490, according to Vicaire, is the date of the first edition; and the Cœlius Apicius, 1486. For the “Elzevirian,” there is the little Patisssier Français, that once fetched three thousand dollars in the sales room, and seldom brings less than three hundred, — prices that impart dignity to all cook books. For the “Editio-Princeps man,” there is the rare Mrs.

COLOPHON : COELIUS APICIUS, 1498.

Antonius mora Ad vulgus.

Plaudite sartores: cætari: Plaudite ventres Plaudite mystili tecta per vncta coqui Pila sit albanis quæcunq? ornata laganis Pingue suum copo límen obesus amet Ocuupat insubres altissimus illenepotum Gurges & vndantes auger & vrger aquas Millia sex ventrí qui fixit Apicius alto Indetimens: sumpsit dira venena: famem.

Ioannes salandus lectori.

Accipe quisquis amas irritamenta palati: Precepta: & leges: oxigarumq? nouum: Condiderat caput: & stygias penitrauerat vndas Celius: in lucem nec redirurus erat: Nunc teritur dextra verfatus Apicius omni Vrbem habet: & tectum qui perigrinus erat: Acceptum motte nostro debebis: & ipsi Immortalis erit gratia: laus & honor: Per quem non licuit celebri caruiffe nepote: Per quem dehinc fugiet lingua latina situm.

Impressum Mediolani per magistrum Guilermum Signerre Rothomagensem Anno dñ Mcccclxxxx viii.die.xx.mensis Ianuarii.

My pride compels me to add (in parenthesis, as it were, for I had not meant to write about it here) that I own not only the Mrs. Glasse, but the Cœlius Apicius. It is, in the 1498 edition, a beautiful book, printed in the Roman type William Morris approved and copied for the Kelmscott Press, the page harmoniously spaced, with noble margins, a place left at the beginning of divisions for the illuminator's capitals, and the paper tenderly toned with age. My copy is in surprisingly good condition, — not a tear or a stain anywhere. It has an interesting pedigree. Dr. Blackie's autograph and the bookplate of Dr. Klotz, the German collector, are on the fly-leaf. But it has no title-page! However, even in its mutilated state it is rare, and, though I cannot read it, — I went to school before the days of the higher education for women, and to a convent, so that all the Latin I learnt was the Ave and the Pater, the Credo and the Confiteor, — I look upon it as the corner stone of my collection.

Still, I am not like Dibdin's Philemon, and I like to read my books. It is another of the good qualities of the cookery book that when you can read it, it makes the best reading in the world. For this pleasure I must come to my shelf of the seventeenth-century English books; mostly small duodecimos in shabby battered calf, one in shabbier battered vellum, their pages browned and stained with constant use. It must not be thought that my collection leaps in this disjointed fashion from century to century. Some very rare and quaint sixxteenth-century Italian books are the link between these duodecimos and the Apicius; but to interpret them I need a dictionary at my elbow. Besides, they have been well cared for by the bibliographer, and I want to show first, what has not been shown before, how delightful the old cookery book is as a book to read, not merely to catalogue or to keep handy on the kitchen dresser. I pass over also the printed copies of early poems and works, preserved in famous historical manuscripts, and edited in the last century by Dr. Pegge and other scholars, in our day chiefly by Dr. Furnivall and the Early English Text Society. Though I consider them as indispensable as Apicius, and though I own the

For Pepys, to whom, as Stevenson puts it, the whole world was a Garden of Armida, “infinite delight” lurked as naturally in a recipe as in his first periwig, or the nightingales at Vauxhall, or a lesson in arithmetic, or whatever else it might be. For us, of less buoyant temperament, if there be infinite delight, it is due, above all, to the magic of the past and the charm of association. Stateliness and elegance were the order of the day in the seventeenth century. The men, who arrayed themselves in gorgeous clothes, spoke in the rounded periods that were in keeping, — in the “brocaded language” of Mr. Gosse's expressive phrase. And the cookery books are full of this brocaded lannguage, full of extravagant conceits, full of artificial ornament; a lover writing to his mistress, you would say, rather than a cook or a housewife giving practical directions. After the modern recipe, blunt to the point of brutality; after the “Take so much of this, add so much of that, and boil, roast, fry,” as the dull case may be, each fresh extravagance, each fresh affectation, is as enchanting as the crook of Lely's ladies or the Silvio of Herrick's verse. I should not want to try the recipes, so appalling often is the combination of savories

“With cream of lilies, not of kine,
And maiden's blush for spicéd wine."

And the drinks: metheglin, — do we not know to the day the date of Pepys' first “brave cup” of it?—

All the cookery books of the century are written in this brocaded language, all reveal the same pleasant fancy, all contain the same pretty dishes and strange drinks. But still, they have their differences that divide them into three distinct classes. Many are simply the old family manuscript collection of recipes, at that period commmon in every household of importance, put into print; to a few the master cook gives the authority of his name and experience; while there are others in which cookery is but one of several arts “exposed” by the accomplished women, to whom curing leprosy was as simple as cooking a dinner, killing rats as ordinary a pastime as

The old manuscript collection of recipes has that touch of romance we feel in a bit of half-worn embroidery or a faded sampler. The fragrance of rosemary and thyme lingers about its leaves. It is full of memories of the stillroom and the cool, spacious pantry. I have two or three, bought before I realized into what depths of bankruptcy I should plunge if I added manuscripts to my printed books. I have seen many others. In all, the tone and quality of the paper would make the etcher sigh for the waste, while the handwriting — sometimes prim, sometimes distinguished, sometimes sprawling — represents generations of careful housewives. The collection, evidently, has grown at hap-hazard: the new dish eaten at a neighbor's, jotted down before its secret is forgotten; the new recipe brought by a friend, entered while she is still by to answer for its accuracy. The style is easy and confidential; it abounds in little asides and parentheses; and always credit is given where credit is due! This, you are assured, is “Lady Dorchester's cake” or “Lady Fitzharding's nun's bisket;”

In the printed books of the seventeenth century there is an attempt at classification. “Incomparable Secrets in Physick and Chirurgery,” if revealed, form a section apart; but in other respects those I have put in the first class share the characteristics of the manuscripts. Their titles at once point to their origin. Almost all are Closets or Cabinets opened. There are exceptions. I have a

TITLE : THE COMPLEAT COOK, 1655.

THE
COMPLEAT
COOK.

Expertly prescribing the most ready wayes,
Whether, Italian,
Spanish,
or French.

For dressing of Flesh, and Fish,
Ordering of Sauces, or making
OF
PASTRY.

LONDON:
Printed for Nath. Brook at the ]
Angel in Corn-hill, 1655.

TITLE : THE QUEEN'S CLOSET OPENED, 1655.

THE
QUEENS CLOSET
OPENED.

Incomparable Secrets in Physick, Chirurgery, Preserving, candying, and cookery;

As they were presented to the
QUEEN
By the most Experienced Persons of our times, many whereof were honoured with her own practice, when she pleased to descend to these more private Recreations.

Never before published.

Transcribed from the true Copies of her MAJESTIES own Receipt-Books, by W. M. one of her late servants.

Vivit post funera virtus.

Printed for Nathaniel Brook, at the Angel in Cornhill, 1655.

Not only are these Closets and Cabinets and Delights as

The compiler of the little vellum-bound Delight is forever taking you into his confidence. He revels in hints and innuendoes: “There is a Country Gentlewoman whom I could name, which” does so and so; or “This of a Kinde Gentlewoman whose skill I doe highly commend and whose case I do greatly pity;” and you divine all sorts of social mysteries. He has sudden outbursts of generosity: “I have robbed my wives Dairy of this secret, who hath hitherto refused all recompenses that have been offered her by gentlewomen for the same, and had I loved a Cheese myself so well as I like the receipt, I think I could not so easily have imparted the same at this time. And yet, I must needs confesse, that for the better gracing of the Title, wherewith I have fronted this pamphlet, I have been willing to publish this with some other secrets of worth, for the which I have been many times refused good store both of crowns and angels. And therefore let no Gentlewoman think this Booke too deare, at what price soever it shall be valued upon the sale thereof, neither can I esteem the worke to be of lesse than twenty years gatherings.” And people think the art of self-advertisement was evolved but yesterday! Sir Kennelm Digby is the great master of this confidential style.

If he gives my Lady Hungerford's meath, he must explain that she sent him special word that “She now useth (and liketh better) a second Decoction of Herbs,” which he also conscientiously records. If he recommends a seccond meath, it is because a certain chief burgomaster of Antwerp, for many years, drank it, and nothing else, “at meals and all times, even for pledging of Healths. And though he was of an extraordinary vigour every way, and had every year a child, had always a great appetite and good digestion, and yet was not fat.” He is at pains to assure you that though Mr. Webbe, probably a master cook, did use to put in a few cloves and mace in the king's meath, “the King did not care for them;” that the “Hydromel, as I made it weak for the Queen Mother was exceedingly liked by everybody;” that Sir Edward Bainton's metheglin, “My Lord of Portland (who gave it me) saith was the best he ever drank;” that for his strange dish of tea and eggs, Mr. Waller's advice is that “the water is to remain upon the tea no longer than while you can say the Miserere Psalm very leisurely.” I sometimes think, if I were in need of bedside books, — which I am thankful to say I am not, — I should give my choice, not to Montaigne and Howell with Thackeray, but to Sir Kenelm

1 I am not sure that I would not add Gervase Markham's English Housewife (1631) and Dr. Muffett's Healths Improvement (1655). Markham is, perhaps, the prettiest and most graceful of all these writers. But both books have come into my collection only recently, since this chapter was written.

The success of these books may have helped to drive the English cook into authorship. The artist has not always the patience to be silent while the amateur dogmatizes upon his art. There is a suggestion of revolt in the preface Robert May, the “Accomplisht Cook,” addressed to his fellow practitioners. “I acknowledge,” he says, “that there hath already been several Books publisht . . . for aught I could perceive to little purpose, empty and unprofitable Treatises, of as little use as some Niggards Kitchen, which the Reader, in respect of the confusion of the Method, or barrenness of those Authours Experience, hath rather been puzzled, than profited by.” Mock humility has never been the characteristic of the cook. He has always respected himself as the pivot of civilization. Other men, at times, have shared this respect with him. The Greeks crowned him with gold and

Whatever the cook's motive in writing, he gave his book a character all its own. The actual dishes and drinks may be those of Closets and Cabinets, but the tone of intimacy disappears from the recipe; no name but the author's vouches for the merits of a dish; the writer is no longer on a level of equality with his readers, but addresses them from a higher plane, the plane of knowledge. There is no mistaking the air of authority. Officers

The very title of the cook's treatise was a marvel of bombast. Robert May's — the book was first published in 1660, by Nathaniel Brook — must be given in full: “The Accomplisht Cook, or the Art and Mystery of Cookery. Wherein the whole Art is revealed in a more easie and perfect Method, than hath been publisht in any Language. Expert and ready wayes for the Dressing of all sorts of Flesh, Fowl and Fish: The Raising of Pastes; the best Directions for all manner of Kickshaws, and the most Poinant Sauces; with the Tearms of Carving and Sewing. An exact Account of all Dishes for the Season; with other A la mode Curiosities. Together with the lively Illustrations of such necessary Figures as are referred to Practice. Approved by the Fifty Years Experience and Industry of Robert May, in his Attendance on several Persons of Honour.” Let me quote just one other, for though it is as long, it is also as irresistible. The book is Will Rabisha's; the date, 1673; the publisher, E. Calvert at the sign of the Black Spread Eagle at the West End of St. Paul's; and the title: “The whole Body of Cookery Dissected, Taught, and fully manifested, Methodically, Artificially, and according to the best Tradition of the English, French, Italian, Dutch

The note may be pitched high, but not too high for the grandiloquent flights that follow. Dedications, prefaces, introductory poems, are in harmony, and as ornate with capitals and italics as the dishes are with spices and sweets. The Accomplisht Cook is further “embellished” with May's portrait: a large, portly person, with heavy face, but determined mouth, wearing his own hair, though I hope he lived long enough to take, like Pepys, to a periwig, so well would it have become him. Below the portrait, verses, engraved on the plate, declare with poetic confusion that,

“Would'st thou view but in one face,
All hospitalitie, the race

PORTRAIT OF ROBERT MAY.

What wouldst thou view but in one face
all hospitalitie, the race
of those that for the Gusto stand,
whose tables a whole Ark comand
of Natures plentie, wouldst thou see
this sight, peruse Mays booke, 'tis hee.
[illegible sentence]

A few pages further on there is another panegyric in verse, “on the unparallel'd Piece of Mr. May, his Cookery,” and an appeal “to the Reader of (my very loving Friend) Mr. Robert May, his incomparable Book of Cookery,” by an admirer who thinks only the pen

“Of famous Cleaveland or renowned Ben,
If unintoom'd might give this Book its due.”

Will Rabisha has but one poet to sing his praise; he, however, does it thoroughly:—

“Brave Book, into the world begone,
Thou vindicatest thy Authour fearing none,
That ever was, or is, or e're shall be
Able to find the parallel of thee.”

The dedications are obsequious for such great men, but obsequiousness in dedications was the fashion of the day. May's book is dedicated not alone to Sir Kenelm Digby, but to Lord Lumley, Lord Lovelace, Sir William Paston, Sir Frederick Cornwallis, all of whom, with the exception

The same spirit betrays itself here and there in the recipes. “The fruits and flowers that you make white must be kept in a dry place,” writes Giles Rose, or his translator, “if you will keep them for your credit and honour.” For your credit and honor! There spoke the artist. Or again, for the whipping of cream, your whisk “ought to be made of the fine small twigs of Birch, or such like wood neatly peeled, and tied up in quantity a little bigger than your thumb, and the small ends must be cut off a little, for fear of breaking in your cream, and so you come to be made ashamed.” That is the kind of thing, as Stevenson says, that reconciles one to life! The flamboyant recipes, the monumental menus, are amusing; but what I love best in my cookery books is the “vanity of the artist” that is their inspiration.

It was the vanity of the superior woman that inspired Mrs. Hannah Woolley, now forgotten by an ungrateful world. In 1670 she published The Queen-Like Closet or Rich Cabinet, with a Supplement added in 1674, that eclipsed all the Treasuries and Guides and Practices for Ladies that had already appeared, as it excels those that, later on, were to take it as model. It is the only seventeenth-century book of the kind in my collection;

Nor does this exhaust her resources. She offers, for “a reasonable Gratuity,” to find good places for servants who will call upon her at Golden Cup Court. She is as full of stories of the astounding cures she has wrought as the manufacturer of a patent pill. She writes letters to serve as models, so many does she meet with that she could tear as she reads, “they are so full of impertinency and so tedious.” She has advice for parents and children which “may prevent much wickedness for the future.”

She teaches waxwork. On one page she is dressing the hearth for summer time ; on the next playing the art master, for she has seen “such ridiculous things done as is an abomination to an Artist to behold.” As for example : “You may find in some Pieces, Abraham and Sarah, and many other Persons of Old Time, cloathed as they go now adaies, and truly sometimes worse.” And that the female sex — and, as we know from the examples of Mrs. Pepys and Pegg Penn, the female sex was then busy painting — may not fall into similar error, she informs them of both the visage and habit of the heroes they, in their modesty, will be most apt to paint. Thus, “If you work Jupiter, the Imperial feigned God, He must have long Black-Curled hair, a Purple Garment trimmed with Gold, and sitting upon a Golden Throne, with bright yellow Clouds about him ;” or, if it be Hymen, the God of Marriage, you must work him “with long Yellow Hair in a Purple or Saffron-Coloured Mantle.” There was nothing this ornament to her sex was afraid to teach.

To judge from the condition of my copy of The Queen­Like Closet, she was not unappreciated. The title-page has gone; the dog's-ears and stains and tatters might make one weep, were they not such an admirable testimonial.

Personal charm enough it has in itself, you might say, when it belongs to the seventeenth century. The eighteenth-

NEXT to eating good dinners, a healthy man with a benevolent turn of mind must like, I think, to read about them.” The words are Thackeray's, and they encourage me, if I need encouragement, in my belief that to go on writing about my Cookery Books is a duty I owe not only to myself, but to the world.

If I have owned to a sneaking preference for the little calf and vellum covered duodecimos of the seventeenth century, courteous and gallant as the Stuart days to which they belong, I should lose no time in adding that it is to the eighteenth century I am indebted for the great treasure of my collection, — Mrs. Glasse in the famous “pot folio” of the first edition. The copy belonged, as I have explained, to George Augustus Sala, and came up for sale when his library was disposed of at Sotheby's in the July of 1896. This library was a disappointment to most people, — to none more than to me. I had heard much of Sala's cookery books, but small as my collection then was I found only three that I had not already. Bartolomeo Scappi's Cuoco Secreto, in fine binding, but

Sala, it was currently reported, valued the book at five hundred dollars; I paid but fifty. It was not because he overestimated its rarity. The first edition is almost as rare as he thought. On the fly-leaf of his copy he wrote, July, 1876, that only three others were known to be in existence: one at the British Museum, a second at the Bodleian, and a third in the library of a country clergyman. Since then only two others, to my knowledge, have materialized. But Sala was a vandal; his copy was evidently in a shocking state when he found it, in a barrow in a South London slum according to the legend, and he had the battered and torn pages mended, and the book bound in substantial and expensive, if inappropriate binding. So far, so good. Still he also had it interleaved. He seems to have believed that his own trivial newspaper correspondence on the subject, carefully pasted in, would increase its value. How often have I looked at the book and decided, at whatever cost, to get rid of the interleaving and the newspaper clippings, an insult alike to Mrs. Glasse and myself! How often

Now I have the first edition, I do not mind admitting that no other treatise on cookery owes its reputation so little to merit, so much to chance. It was popular in its own day, I grant you. The Biographical Dictionary says that, except the Bible, it had the greatest sale in the language. It went into edition after edition. There are ten in the British Museum. I own six myself, though I vowed that the first sufficed for my wants. The book was republished in Edinburgh. It was revived as late as 1852, perhaps later still, for all I as yet know. But almost all the eighteenth-century books shared its popularity, — only the Biographical Dictionary has not happened to hear of them. I have The Compleat Housewife, by E. Smith, in the eighteenth edition ; I have Elizabeth Moxon's English Housewife, in the thirteenth ; I have John Farley's London Art of Cookery,

“Where's Hipparchia, and where is Thais?”

If Mrs. Glasse alone survives, it is for one reason only, and that the most unreasonable. Her fame is due not to her genius, for she really had none, but to the fact that her own generation believed there was “no sich a person,”

TITLE : FOURTH EDITION OF MRS. GLASSE'S ART OF COOKERY, 1751.

More than this, Dr. Hill, thus established on copper plate, would have had promptly to invent his failure. In 1754, three years later, Hannah Glasse figured among the bankrupts of the year; “Hannah Glasse of St.Paul's, Covent Garden, Warehousekeeper,” is the entry. He would also have had to claim two other books: The Servant's Directory, published in 1760, almost fifteen years after the Art of Cookery, a book I have never been able to

1 Just as I am re-reading this before trusting it to the post, a package is handed to me. I open it. The Servant's Directory, or Housekeeper's Companion, by H. Glasse. The book I have been searching for during long years! The miracle lowe, I am proud to say, to Mr. Janvier, whose intimacy with Mr. Hutchinson, Port of Philadelphia, has made him sympathize with me in my study of the Science of the Gullet.

Well, anyway, believe in Mrs. Glasse, or not, the cookery book that bears her name is the only one published in the eighteenth century now remembered by the whole world. And yet, it is in eighteenth-century books my collection is richest. They are mostly substantial octavos, calf bound, much the worse for wear, often “embellished” with an elegant frontispiece, a portrait of the author, or picture of the kitchen, and, I regret to say, seldom very beautiful examples of the printer's art. Several have been given to me by friends who know my weakness. For instance, few books in my entire library do I prize more than the Collection Of above Three Hundred Re ceipts in Cookery, Physick and Surgery; For the Use of

1 Perhaps I should explain that my articles on cookery appeared in the Pall Mall, under the title of Wares of Autolycus, and it was while I was writing them that Mr. Dobson gave me the book.

If I were asked to point out anyone characteristic they

The ladies were as eager to vouch for their qualifications.

The seriousness with which these cooks and housekeepers and professors took themselves was reflected in their style. An occasional seventeenth-century book, reappearing in an eighteenth-century edition, may have continued to enjoy something of popularity; an occasional new book at the very beginning of the period may have retained something of the old picturesqueness. The Collection Of above Three Hundred Receipts fills its pages with Tansies and Possets, Syllabubs and Flummeries, still recommends a dish as “the best that ever was tasted,” and still advises you “to put in a little shalot, if you love it;” The Queen's Royal Cookery is as flamboyant with decorative adjectives as any queen's closet. But as time went on, the pleasant old familiarity went out of fashion, and ornament was chastened. The literary tendency of the age was toward more formal dignity, a greater regularity of form. In accordance with the mode, receipts were written with a businesslike decision, a professional directness that allowed no flowers of speech. Many cooks seem to have forestalled or copied

Some sort of order was also introduced into the arrangement of receipts, in the place of the haphazard disorder of the old MS. books. The change was due, in a large measure, to French influence. In France, the art of cookery had reached a much higher stage of perfection than in England. The English might rebel against the fact, and they did in good earnest. It was not only the Squire of Clod-Hall who

“Classed your Kickshaws and Ragoos
With Popery and Wooden Shoes.”

Steele deplored the fashion that banished the “noble Sirloin” ignominiously “to make way for French Kickshaws,” and he held a French ragout to be “as pernicious to the Stomach as a glass of spirits.” “What work would our countrymen have made at Blenheim and Ramillies, if they had been fed with fricassees and ragouts?”

But protests were of small avail. Already, in his Directions to Servants, Swift had found it a long time since the custom began among the people of quality to keep men cooks and generally of the French nation. Patriotism, I fear, does not begin in the stomach. French cooks presided in most of the big houses; French cooks were patronized by royalty; French cooks wrote cookery books. The French Family Cook (1793) was but a belated translation of the famous Cuisinière Bourgeoise (1746). La Chapelle, who published a treatise, was a Frenchman. So was Clermont. Verral studied under a Frenchman. And from French sources the most patriotic were not ashamed to steal. Mrs. Smith, however she might object to French messes, must still admit the necessity to temporize, justifying herself by including only “such receipts of French cookery as I think may not be disagreeable to English palates.” Mrs. Glasse, however she might scorn the French Booby, must still give some of her dishes “French names to distinguish them, because they are known by those names,” and it

The new love of order had one drawback. It gave writers less opportunity for self-revelation. I miss the personal note so pleasant in the older books of cookery, that is, in the receipts themselves. One collection is so like another I can hardly tell them apart unless I turn to the title-page or the preface. But here ample amends are made. The cook did not suppress his individuality meekly, and, fortunately for him, the age was one of Prefaces and Dedications. In the few pages where he still could swagger, he made up for the many where the mode forced him to efface himself. “Custom,” says John Nott, in 1723, to the “Worthy Dames” to whom

TITLE : A COLLECTION OF ABOVE THREE HUNDRED RECEIPTS, ETC., 1719.

A
COLLECTION
Of above Three Hundred
RECEIPTS
IN
Cooker,
Physick and Survery;
For the Use of all
Good Wives, Tender Mothers, and
Careful Nurses.
By several Hands.
The Second Edition.
To which is Added,
A Second PART, Containing a great Number of
Excellent Receipts, for Preserving and Con-
serving of Sweet-Meats, &c.
LONDON, Printed for Mary Kettilby, and Sold by
Richard Wilkin, at the King's Head in St. Paul's
Church-Yard. M DCC XIX.

Mrs. Charlotte Mason knows there are many books, but has “never met with one that contained any instructions for regulating a table.” Mrs. Elizabeth Moxon, like the modest author to-day, shifts the responsibility to her “honored friends who first excited her to the publication of her book, and who have been long eye-witnesses of her Skill and Behaviour in the Business of her Calling.” Mrs. Elizabeth Raffald, reflecting upon the contempt with which the many volumes already published were read, seems to have hoped no one would find her out if she boldly borrowed from Mrs. Price and Mrs. Glasse, and tried to save her own from the general fate by uniting “Economy and Elegance,” taking the very words out of Mrs. Price's mouth, and by seeing that it was not “glossed over with Hard Names or words of High Stile, but wrote in my own plain language,” barely altering Mrs. Glasse's memorable phrase. I select a few specimens of her plain language: “Hares and Rabbits requires time and care,” she says, with a cheerful disregard of grammar; “Pigeons Transmogrified” is a term I should recommend to the Century Company for a new edition of their Dictionary; while upon a very popular dish of the day she bestows the name “Solomon-gundy,”

There is another trait shared by all these cooks, to whom I should do scant justice if I did not point it out. This is the large liberality with which they practiced their art. The magnitude of their ideas, at times, makes me gasp. I have been often asked if, with such a fine collection to choose from, I do not amuse myself experimenting with the old receipts. But all our flat turned into a kitchen would not be large enough to cook an eighteenth-century dinner, nor our year's income to pay for it. The proportions used in each different dish are gigantic. What Dr. King wrote in jest of the different cooks who,

1 “Swol'd Mutton is a sheep roasted in its Wool,” according to Dr. Lister himself.

At first, this lavishness perplexed me. I remembered eighteenth-century dinners as simple as our own. For example, Boswell's with Dr. Johnson one Easter Sunday, — a very good soup, a boiled leg of lamb and spinach, a veal pie, and rice pudding, — that seems reasonable.

But another problem I have hitherto been unable to solve. When I study the receipts of the period, I am struck by their variety and excellence. The tendency to over­seasoning, to the mixing of sweets and savories in one dish, had not altogether been overcome; probably, I am afraid, because fresh meat was not always to be had, and suspicious flavors had to be disguised. Some “made dishes” you know, without tasting them, to be as “wretched attempts” as Maclaurin's seemed to Dr. Johnson. However, so many and ingenious were the ways of preparing soups, sauces, meats, poultry, game, fish, vegetables, and sweets, the gourmet had sufficient chance to steer clear of the tawdry and the crude. Only in Voltaire's witticism was England then a country of a hundred religions and one sauce. Soup soared above the narrow oxtail and turtle ideal, and the cook roamed at will from the richest bisque to the simplest bouillon. The casserole was exalted and shared the honors with the honest spit. Fricassees and ragouts were not yet overshadowed by plain roast and boiled. Vegetables were not thought, when unadorned, to be adorned the most. And as for oysters, an American could not have been more accomplished in frying, scalloping, stewing,

If, as a rule, the eighteenth-century books, save for their prefaces, have a strong family resemblance, I prize the more the small but select saving remnant that makes for individuality. There are books that stand out with

FRONTISPIECE : LISTER'S COELIUS APICIUS, 1709.

But, of all, the books I love most are those that make their appeal by some unexpected literary association. I own to a genuine emotion when I found it was to Lord Chesterfield that Vincent La Chapelle dedicated The Modern Cook, and that to the chef in his kitchen the noble patron offered the helping hand he later refused to the author at his door. I cannot understand why, for La Chapelle, in his praise of his lordship's exalted qualities, did not humble himself more completely than Johnson when overpowered, like the rest of mankind, by the enchantment of his lordship's address. In the Gentle Art of Toadying, the author of the eighteenth century could instruct the cook. It was, however, reserved for William Verral to give me the greatest thrill. His Complete System of Cookery is little known even to bibliographers; its receipts do not seem exceptional, perhaps

It is with discoveries of this kind my Cookery Books reward me for the time — and worse, the money — I spend upon them. I never pick up one already in my collection, well as I may know it, without wondering what puzzle

IT is when I look at my Latin books that I am most convinced of my sincerity as collector. My English books I can read and enjoy. But my pleasure in these old vellum-covered quartos and octavos, printed in a language I cannot understand, is purely bibliographical. Were their pages blank, my profit as reader could be no less. But without them, my pride as collector would not be so great.

They are not many, or it would be nearer the truth to say they are very few. But these few are of rare interest, and at least one would satisfy the collector of Early Printed Books. Indeed, since I have been collecting, I begin to believe that the real achievement of the Renaissance was not the discovery of the world and man, as historians fancy, but the discovery of the kitchen, so promptly were cookery books put on the market. The earliest, Platina's De Honesta Voluptate, I cannot mention without a sigh, remembering how once at Sotheby's I came within a miserable pound of having the edition dated 1475 for my own, — such an exceptionally fine copy too! However, I take what comfort I can from

1 I speak of it as the first out of deference to the authorities.

When I consider what the mere possession of the book

Judging the books by their appearance, I should say the 1498 edi· tion was far the earlier. Certainly it is the first with a date, and, I am happy to say, is excessively rare.

TITLE : FIRST EDITION OF COELIUS APICIUS.

I have also Dr. Lister's edition, with numerous notes: not the first published in London in 1705, but the second, printed in Amsterdam four years later, limited to a hundred copies. This is the book which set Dr. King to writing his Art of Cookery in imitation of Horace, and

With these three editions of Apicius, I am content. I know ten are duly entered in the pages of M. Vicaire, but when a book figures so seldom in sale rooms and catalogues, I think I am to be envied my good fortune in owning it at all.

My next Latin work is De Re Cibaria, by Bruyerin, which I have in the first edition, a thick, podgy octavo, published at Lyons by Sebastian Honorat in 1560. A more severe and solid page of type I have never seen. The quotations from Horace or Virgil, breaking the solidity, seem like indiscretions; an air of undue frivolity is given when, toward the end, the division into short chapters results in two, three, and even four initial letters on a single page; while a capital N, inserted sideways, and overlooked by author, printer, and proof-reader, is a positive relief as the one sign of human weakness in all the eleven hundred and twenty-nine solemn pages. Bruyerin was a learned physician who translated Averroes and Avicenna, and who was sufficiently in favor at court to attend those suppers of Francis I., which, he explains, were served by Theologians, Philosophers, and Doctors. If it was from this company he derived his theory of food, it is alarming to consider the consequences to his contemporaries. In any case, his book, to look at, is the most impressive in my library. I have also a graceful quarto, called Juris Evidentiæ Demonstratio in Materia Alimentorum et Sumptuum Litis, by Maria Francesco Cevoli, Florence, 1703, omitted from all bibliographies of cookery

I may as well admit at once that unfortunate gaps occur not only in my Latin, but in all my foreign sections. Naturally, one's spoils are richest in one's own country. When I travel on the Continent I keep my eyes open, and I receive many foreign catalogues. But that is not quite the same as being continually on the spot. After my English books, my Italian are the most numerous, because mine is the rare good fortune to have had in Italy a friend who was as eager to collect for me as I am to collect for myself. Mr. Charles Godfrey Leland, who lived in Florence, for several years haunted the old bookshops and barrows there in my behalf, and to him I owe an imposing shelf of vellum-covered volumes, the titles of many in illuminated lettering on their backs, often both binding and illumination being the work of his hands. A few prizes have also been captured by me in London, and altogether, if I boast of my Italian section,

But had the selection been deliberate, instead of the result of mere chance, it could not have been better. The Italian cookery books were the most important published anywhere, in the sixteenth century. Italy then set the standard of cookery, as of all the arts, for the world. Even the French looked up to the Italian chef as to the Italian painter or sculptor. Historically, these old volumes are indispensable to the student of the Renaissance. Bibliographically, too, they have their charm: being often delightful specimens of book-making, and, as often, of unquestionable rarity. For two or three I still look, but the most famous are already in my possession: the Banchetti of Christoforo di Messibugo, not in the first edition published at Ferrara in 1549, but in the second with the title changed to Libro Novo, printed In Venetia al segno di San Girolamo in 1552, — a little shabby octavo in cracked vellum; La Singolare Dottrina of Domenico

My Italian is no great thing to boast of, but, with the help of a dictionary, I have gradually read enough to learn that these old books are delightfully amusing. It is their close relationship to the church that strikes me above all. “Take pride from priests and what remains?” somebody

TITLE : LA SINGOLARE DOTTRINA DI M. DOMENICO ROMOLI, 1560.

If there is one feature all these books have in common, it is a love of pageantry, eminently characteristic of the Renaissance. Popes and Cardinals, who overloaded their churches with ornament, who covered the walls of their palaces with splendid pictures and gorgeous arabesques, whose very costume added to the pageant into which they turned their daily existence, would have had no appetite for the meal that did not contribute its share to the great spectacle of life. The simplest dish was transformed into a bewildering harmony of color, a marvelous medley of spices and sweets, and when it came to the composition of the menu for a feast, the cook soared to heights of poetic imagination, now happily unattainable. It was over these menus he loved to linger at his desk as in his kitchen. Messibugo frankly confessed the subject that engrossed him in the title of his book, which, I cannot help thinking, as Lamb said of Thomson's Seasons, looks

BANQUET OF CARDINALS : SCAPPI'S OPERA, 1570.

It would be a mistake to think there were no frugal intervals in these old books. Even the prevailing flamboyancy had its degrees. The feast might begin with

THE VATICAN KITCHEN : SCAPPI'S OPERA, 1570.

The next book in my Italian series marks a radical change. If in the sixteenth century the Italian kitchen was para mount, in the seventeenth, the tables had turned and French cookery had become supreme. It is therefore

With Leonardi, I bring the record of my Italian books to an end. The nineteenth century produced a large library on the subject of cookery, and most of the volumes in it I have, but they open an entirely new chapter in the literature of the kitchen.

My French books have been chosen as kindly by chance as my Italian. I still wait for the collector's prizes — Taillevent's Viandier (about 1490), the Roti-Cochon (about 1696), Le Pastissier François (1655), and I suppose

FRONTISPIECE : LES DONS DE COMUS, 1758.

La Varenne's book was an immediate and continued success. By 1652 there was a second edition, by 1654, a third. M. Vicaire counts seventeen before he finishes his list. I have the fourth, published at the Hague by Adrian Vlacq and ranked by some collectors with La Varenne's more famous Pastissier François in the Elzevir edition. The Cuisinier François never fetched three thousand dollars. In special binding, it has gone up to over a hundred, but ten is the average price quoted by bibliographers.

PLATE FROM LE GRAND ECUYER TRANCHANT.

When Marin wrote his book, a little less than a hundred years afterwards, the art had made strides forward in the direction of refinement and simplicity. Louis XIV. ate well, but the Regent and Louis XV. ate better. It was probably due to the Grand Monarque's abnormal stomach, which, I have seen it stated, was discovered after death to be twice the average size, that a suspicion of barbarity lingered in his day. But with the return of the royal organ to normal limits quality triumphed over quantity. I have not forgotten that Dr. Johnson, when he visited France, declared the French kitchen gross. But then Dr. Johnson was not an authority in these matters. If the word of any Englishman carries weight, I would rather quote a letter Richard West wrote to Walpole in the very year that Marin's book was published, as a proof that the distinction between English and French ideals was much the same then as now. “I don't pretend,” he says, “to compare our supper in London with your partie de cabaret at Rheims; but at least, sir, our materials were more sterling than yours. You had a goûté forsooth, composed of des fraises, de la crême,

This simplicity rules in Marin's book. Throughout the three fat little volumes, the method is beyond criticism. And he was more learned than La Varenne, for whom I could wish, however, that his veneration had been greater. To make a point of dating the modern kitchen but thirty years back, when La Varenne had been long in the grave, seems a deliberate insult. In the history of his art, prepared with the assistance of two accomplished Jesuits, and beginning with the first man who discovered the use of fire, he defines this modern kitchen as “chemical, that is, scientific.” But for all his science, he did not disdain the graces of style, he did not forget he was an artist. Let the cook, he says, blend the ingredients in a sauce, as the painter blends the colors on his palette, to produce the perfect harmony: as pretty a simile as I can remember in any book in my collection, given as were

Even after praise of simplicity was in every mouth, there were relapses. Thus, Menon, who wrote also a Maître d'Hôtel Confiseur (1788, my edition, the second), denounces the old elaborate edifices of pastry and sugar, overloaded with ornament and grotesque in design, only to evolve, out of the same materials, gardens with trees and urns, or classical balustrades with figures of Diana, Apollo, and Æneas, or temples of Circe, with Ulysses, pigs and all. “Quel agréable coup d'œil!” he exclaims in ecstasy, “quel gout I Quelle aimable symétrie!” But it was just such masterpieces, just such exceptions to

It is as well the books of the nineteenth century do not enter into my present scheme. There would be too much to say of the new development in the literature of cookery that began toward the end of the eighteenth, with Grimod de la Reynière, the Ruskin of the kitchen. A new era opened with his Almanach des Gourmands; a new school of writers was inaugurated, which, before it was exhausted, had counted Brillat Savarin, the Marquis de Cussy, and Dumas Père among its masters.

In the books of other countries my poverty is more marked. I have but two or three German works, none of special note. I have nothing American earlier than

My remaining Spanish books, in comparison, seem commonplace.

TITLE : NUEVO ARTE DE COCINA, 1760.

Of course, it will be understood that I write solely of the books in my own collection, which I am not foolish enough to represent as exhaustive. Indeed, if I were, M. Vicaire's Bibliography would betray me at once. But for the collector the evil hour is when, folding his hands, he must admit his task completed. As long as there are gaps on my shelves, life will still hold the possibility of emotion.

BIBLIOGRAPHY

NOTE

It will be understood, of course, that I do not aim at an exhaustive Bibliography. I have attempted nothing more ambitious than a list of my own books, and even that within limits. I have thought it better, and more in keeping with the text, to bring it no further down than to the end of the Eighteenth Century. For this reason, I have omitted Eighteenth Century books that I have only in Nineteenth Century editions, and also modern reprints of early MSS. I have made an exception in favor of Grimod de la Reynière's Almanach des Gourmands, simply because it marks the beginning of the new period, and helps to explain the limits I have deliberately set myself. Some day, I may be able to make as worthy a record of Nineteenth Century books.

LATIN

Apicius Coelius

Apitii Celii de re Coquinaria libri decem. Suetonius Träqullus De Claris Grämaticis. Suetonius Träquillus De Claris Rhetoribus.

(In Fine:) Impressum Venetiis per Bernardinum Venetum. It has no date, but is attributed to about 1486. Given as earliest edition by most authorities. 4to, old vellum. 30 sheets, the pages not numbered.

Apicius Coelius

Apicius Culinarius.

(In fine:) Impressum Mediolani per magistrum Guilermum Signerre Rothomagensem. Anno dni. Mcccclxxxxviii. Die. xx. Mensis Januarii. First dated edition, 4to. Half calf. 40 sheets, pages not numbered. This copy has on fly-leaf the book plate of "Georgius Klotz, M. D. Francofurti ad Moenum," and the autograph of "John S. Blackie, 1862."

Apicius Coelius

Apicii Coelii de Opsoniis et Condimentis, Sive Arte Coquinaria, Libri Decem. Cum Annotationibus Martini Lister, ë Medicis domesticis Srenissimae Majestatis Reginae Annae, et Notis selectioribus, variisque lectionibus integris, Hummelbergii, Barthii, Reinesii, A Van Der Linden, & Aliorum, ut & Variarum Lectionum Libello. Editio Secunda, Longe auctior atque emendatior.

Amstelodami, Apud Janssonio- Waesbergios, 1709. 8vo, half calf. Frontispiece, engraving on copper, by J. Goeere. Dedication, Preface, and Preliminary, 17 leaves + pp. 277 + Variae Lectiones, pp. 18, not numbered + Index pp. 25, not numbered.

Bruyerinus Campegius

De Re Cibaria Libri XII Omnium Ciborum genera, omnium gentium moribus, & usu probata complectentes, Io Bruyerino Campegio Lugdun authore, Prima Editio.

Lugduni, Apud Sebast. Honoratum, 1560 Cum Privilegio Regio. 8vo, old vellum, the name and date in illuminated lettering by Mr. Leland on back. Dedication and Index, 11 Leaves + pp. 1130. On last page, not numbered, after Finis: Lugduni suis typis excudebat NICOLAUS EDOUARDUS, CAMPANUS M.D.LX. On inserted leaves, the inscription: "To Mrs. Joseph Pennell. . . . With kind regards of Charles G. Leland, Florence, Decr. 25th 1901. A Christmas offering."

TITLE : DE RE CIBARIA, 1560.

Curtius, Matthaeus

Matthaei Curtii Papiensis de Prandii Ac Caenae Modo libellus.

Romae. Apud Paulum Manutium, Aldi F. Cum privilegio Pii IIII. Pont. Max. 1562. 4to, unbound. Title and Dedication, 1 leaf + blank, 1 leaf + pp. 90.

Cevoli, Maria Francisco

Juris Evidentiae Demonstratio in Materia Alimentorum, et Sumptuum Litis.

Florentiae, 1703. Apud Petrum Matini Achiepisc. Typograph. Superiorum permiss. 4to, old vellum, with title in old lettering on back, and on front in illuminated lettering, by Mr. Leland. Genealogical table and Synopsis, pp. iv + pp. 72 + Index, pp. xxiv. On inserted leaf, the inscription: "To Mrs. Joseph Pennell. This book, very remotely allied to the art of cookery, yet one concerning nourishment, is presented with the kind regards of Charles Godfrey Leland. Florence, Feb. 14, 1902."

ITALIAN

Messibugo, Christofaro Di.

Libro Novo Nel Qual s' Insegna A Far D'Ogni sorte di vivanda secondo la diversità de' tempi, cosi di carne come di pesce ne'l modo d'ordinar banchetti, apparecchiar

In Venetia Al Segno di San Girolamo. 1552. 8vo, in vellum, evidently a page torn from an old illuminated MS. Woodcut of kitchen on title page. Dedication and Errori, 2 leaves + 115 leaves, the numbers repeated on last three, + Table of Contents, 6 leaves.

Scappi, Bartolomeo

Opera Di M. Bartolomeo Scappi, Cuoco Secreto Di Papa Pio Quinto, Divisa in Sei Libri. Nel primo si contiene il ragionamento che fa l' Autore con Gio. Suo discepolo. Nel secondo si tratta di diverse vivande di carne, si di quadrupedi, come di volatili. Nel terzo si parla della statura, e stagione de pesci. Nel quarto si mostrano le liste del presentar le vivande in tavola, cosi di grasso come di magro. Nel quinto si contiene l' ordine di far diverse sorti di paste, & altre lavori. Nel sesto, & ultimo libro si ragiona de' convalescenti, & molte altre sorti di vivande per gli infermi. Con il discorso funerale

KITCHEN UTENSILS, ETC. : SCAPPI'S OPERA, 1570.

KITCHEN UTENSILS, ETC. : SCAPPI'S OPERA, 1570.

Col privilegio del Sommo Pontefice Papa Pio V. & dell Illustriss Senato Veneto per anni XX. 1570. The name of the publisher, Michiel Tramezino, appears in Concession on first and second leaf. 4to, in old vellum, with old lettering on back. Concession and Dedications, 4 leaves + engraved portrait of Scappi + 372 leaves. Then follow 4 leaves of explanation of the engravings, and 27 engravings on copper of the kitchen and kitchen utensils. This copy has on inside of cover the book plate of "William Horatio Crawford, Lakelands, Cork."

Scappi, Bartolomeo

Opera Di M. Bartolomeo Scappi, Cuoco Secreto Di Papa Pio Quinto, etc.

In Venetia, 1598. Appresso Allessandro Vecchi. 4to, in modern calf. Frontispiece, unsigned engraving on copper, portrait of Scappi. Concession and Dedication, 2 leaves + 4 woodcuts of kitchen and kitchen utensils + 311 leaves. This copy has, written on fly-leaf: "George Augustus Sala, Brighton, 1880. Note the curious engravings of culinary utensils. I cannot find any directly poisonous recipes among the formulas of 'Cuoco Secreto.' Possibly they never passed out of the MS. form." Sala's autograph and "46 Mecklenburgh Square, W. C., May 1st, 1884," on title page.

Romoli, Domenico

La Singolare Dottrina di M. Domenico Romoli sopranominato Panunto, Dell' ufficio dello Scalco, dei condimenti di tutte le vivande, le stagioni che si convengono a tutti gli animali, vecelli, & pesci, Banchetti di ogni tempo, & mangiare da apparecchiarsi di di, in di, pertutto l' anno a Prencipi. Con la dichiaratione della qualita delle carni di tutti gli animali, & pesci, & di tutte le vivande circa la sanita. Nel fine un breve trattato del reggimento della sanita. Opera sommamente utile a tutti.

Col Privilegio del Sommo Pontefice, & dell' Illustr. Senato Veneto per anni XX. 1560. 8vo, in old vellum. Title, Dedication, Table of Contents, etc., 16 leaves + 376 leaves.

Durante, Castor

Il Tesoro della Sanita, Di Castor Durante da Gualdo, Medico, & Cittadino Romano. Nel quale s' insegna il modo di conservar la Sanita, & prolungar la vita, et si tratta Della Natura De' Cibi & de' Rimedij de' nocumeni loro. Con la Tavola Delle Cose Notabili.

In Venetia, 1586, Appresso Andrea Muschio. 8vo, old vellum. Title, sub-title, Dedication, etc., Table of Contents, 8 leaves + pp. 328. On inserted leaf, inscription: "To Mrs. J.

Durante, Castor

Il Tesoro della Sanita, Di Castor Durante da Gualdo, etc.

In Venetia, Appresso Lucio Spineda. 1605. 8vo, in old vellum. Title, sub-title, Dedication, Table of Contents, etc. 8 leaves + pp. 324. On inserted leaf, inscription: "Il Tesoro Sanita. To Mrs. Joseph Pennell, with kind regards of Chas. G. Leland, etc., etc."

Cervio, Vincenzo

Il Trinciante Di M. Vincenzo Cervio, Ampliato et A Perfettione ridotto dal Cavalier Reale Fusoritto da Narni, Gia Trinciante dell' Illustrissimo & Reverendissimo Signor Cardinal Mont'alto. Con diverse aggiunte fatte dal Cavalier Reale, & dall'istesso in questa ultima Impressione, aggiuntovi nel fine un breve Dialogo detto il Mastro di Casa, per governo d' una Casa di qual si voglia Principe con li Offitialinescessarij, utile & giovevole a ogni Cortigiano.

Con Privilegio del Sommo Pontefice, e Licenza de' Superiori Ad Istanza di Giulio Burchioni. In Roma. Nella Stampa del Gabbia. 1593. 4to, in old vellum. My copy incomplete to Page 14. In all, pp. 162. At the end, Registro. + A B C D E F G H I J K L. Tutti sono quaderni, eccetto che e duerno, & I terno, & K duerno. In Roma. Nella Stampa del Gabbia. 1593. On inserted leaf, inscription: "Presented to Mrs. Joseph Pennell, With kindest regards of Charles G. Leland. Florence May 26th 1898."

Magri, Domenico.

Virtu Del Kafe Bevanda Introdotta Nuovamente Nell' Italia. Con alcune osservationi per conservar la sanità nella vecchiaia. All' Eminentissimo Signor Cardinal Brancacci. Seconda Impressione Con aggiunta del medesimo Autore.

In Roma Per Michele Hercole. Con licenza de' Superiori. A spese di Giovanni Casone, all' Insegna de S. Paolo. 1671. 4to, unbound. Pp. 16. The name of the author appears only on page 9.

De La Varenne, François Pierre.

Il Cuoco Francese Ove è Insegnata La maniera di condire ogni sorte di Vivande, E di fare ogni sorte di Pasticcierie, e di Confetti, Conforme le quattro Stagion dell' Anno. Per il Signor De La Verenne Cuoco Magiore

In Venetia. Per Lorenzo Baseggio. Con Lice de' Sup. 1703. 12 mo, in vellum. Title and Table of Contents, 12 leaves + pp. 420. On inserted leaf, the inscription: "To Mrs. J. Pennell, with kindest regards of Charles G. Leland. Florence. March 28th, 1897. Entirely bound by the donor! A curious and very rare work from old sources. It contains valuable recipes in sweets, e.g. how to candy violets and other flowers." On second inserted leaf: "Fon tiro kamlo Kako, se akovo delaben C. G. L."

Leonardi, Francesco.

Il Pasticciere All' Uso Moderno, E Sul Gusto Del Presente Secolo Dato in Luce Da Francesco Leonardi, Gia' Cuoco di Sua Maesta' Caterina II. Imperatrice di tutte le Russie.

In Firenze. Presse Giuseppe Luchi in Faccia al Fisco. Con Approvazione, 1797. 12 mo, in parchment by Mr. Leland. Pp. 272. On inserted leaf, the inscription: "Mrs. J. Pennell, with kindest regards of Charles G. Leland, etc."

FRENCH

Leonardi, Francesco.

Apicio Moderno Di Francesco Leonardi. Edizione Seconda, Revista, Corretta, ed Accresciuta Dall' Autore.

In Roma. Nella Stamperia del Giunchi, presso Carlo Mordacchini. Con Approvazione. 1807. 6 vols. 8vo, in parchment by Mr. Leland. In Vol. I: Title page, Preface, etc., pp. LVIII. + pp. 296. On inserted leaf, the inscription: "To Mrs. Joseph Pennell, With kindest regards of Charles G. Leland, as a seasonable Christmas offering. Florence Dec. 25, 1897."

Leonardi, Francesco.

Gianina ossia La Cuciniera Delle Alpi, Di Francesco Leonardi.

Roma. Con Licenza de' Superiori. Date blotted out in my copy. 3 vols. 8vo, in parchment, with illuminated lettering on back, by Mr. Leland. In Vol. I: pp. 319. On inserted leaf, the inscription: "To Mrs. Joseph Pennell with kind regards of Charles Godfrey Leland. Florence, Feb 13. 1899, etc."

FRENCH

De La Varenne, François Pierre.

Le Cuisinier François. Enseignant la Maniere de bien apprester et assaisonner toutes sortes de Viandes grasses & maigres, Legumes, Patisseries, & autres mets qui se servent tant sur les Tables des Grands que des particuliers. Avec une instruction pour faire des Confitures: Et des Tables necessaires. par le Sieur De La

TITLE: LA VARENNE'S CUISINIER FRANÇOIS, 1656.

A la Haye, Chez Adrian Vlacq, 1656. 12mo, old calf. Title, Dedication, Tables, 5 leaves + pp. 426 + Table Générale, 14 leaves. Bound up in same volume 78 leaves of blank paper.

De La Varenne, François Pierre.

Le Vray Cuisinier Francois. Enseignant La Manière de bien apprester et assaisonner toutes sortes de Viandes, grasses, et maigres, Légumes et Patisseries en perfection, etc., Augmentée d'un nouveau Confiturier, qui apprend à bien faire toutes sortes de Confitures, tant seches que liquides, de Compostes, de Fruits, de Dragées, Breuvages délicieux, & autres délicatesses de bouche. Le Maistre d'Hostel Et le Grand Ecuyer-Tranchant, Ensemble d'une Table Alphabétique des Matières qui sont traitées dans tout le Livre. Par le Sieur De La Varenne, Ecuyer de Cuisine de Monsieur le Marquis d'Uxells. Nouvelle Edition.

A Amsterdam, Chez Pierre Mortier, Libraire sur le Vygendam, à la ville de Paris. No date, but attributed to from 1690 to 1715 by Vicaire. 12mo, old vellum. Frontispiece, engraving on copper of a kitchen. Title, Preface, and Tables, 11 leaves + pp. 380 + Table Alphabétique, 2 leaves. 18 illustrations.

De Blegny.

Le Bon Usage Du Thé du Caffé et Du Chocolat Pour la Preservation & pour la guerison des Maladies. Par Mr. De Blegny, Conseiller, Medecin Artiste ordinaire du Roy & de Monsieur , & préposé par ordre de sa Majesté, à la Recherche & Verification des nouvelles découvertes de Medecine.

A Paris, Chez Estienne Michallet, rue S. Jacques, à l'Image S. Paul. avec Approbation et privilege du Roy. 1687. 12mo, old calf. Frontispiece, engraving on copper. Title, Dedication, etc., 11 leaves + pp. 358 + Table des Chapitres, 2 leaves. 12 engravings by Hainzelman.

Lemery, Louis.

Traité des Aliments, où l'on trouve Par Ordre et Separément La difference & le choix qu'on doit faire de chacun d'eux en particulier; les bons & les mauvais effets qu'ils peuvent produire; les principes en quoy ils abondent; le temps, l'âge & le temperament où ils convicanent. Avec des Remarques à la suite de chaque Chapitre, où l'on explique leur nature & leurs usages, suivant les principes Chymiques, & Méchaniques. Par M. Louis Lemery, Docteur Regent en la Faculté de Médecine

TEAPOTS : LE BON USAGE DU THÉ, ETC., 1687.

A Paris, Chez J. B. Cusson et P. Witte, rue S. Jacques, au Nom de Jésus & au Bon Pasteur, vis à vis la rue du Plâtre. Aven Approbations & Privilege du Roy. 1702. Small 8vo, old calf. Titles, Dedication, Preface, etc., 28 leaves + pp. 541 + Extrait du Registre, etc., 1 leaf.

Massialot.

Le Nouveau Cuisinier Royal et Bourgeois; Qui Apprend a Ordenner Toute sorte de Repas en gras & en maigre, & la meilleure maniere des Ragoûts les plus délicats & les plus à la mode, & toutes sortes de Patisseries: avec des nouveaux desseins de Tables. Ouvrage tres-utile dans les Familles, aux Maîtres d'Hotels & Officiers de Cuisine.

A Paris. Chez Claude Prudhomme, au Palais, au sixieme Pilier de la Grand' Salle, vis-à-vis l'Ecalier de la Cour des Aides, à la Bonne-Foy couronnée. Avec Privilege du Roy. 1714. 2 vols. (Vol. II of my copy missing). Small 8vo, old calf. Title, Preface, etc., 4 leaves + pp. 491 + Table des Mets, 11 leaves. 11 Plates.

Instruction, Nouvelle.

Nouvelle Instruction Pour les Confitures, Les Liqueurs,

A Paris, Chez Claude Prudhomme, au Palais, au sixieme Pilier de la Grand' Salle, vis-à-vis l'Escalier de la Cour des Aides, à la Bonne-Foy Couronnée. Avec Privilege du Roy. 1716. Small 8vo, old calf. Title, Preface, and Table, 6 leaves + pp. 464 + Table des Matières, Approbation, etc., 13 leaves. 3 plates.

Liger, Louis (Attributed to).

Le Menage des Champs et de la Ville; our nouveau Cuisinier François, Accommodé au goût du Tems. Contenant tout ce qu'un parfait Chef de Cuisine doit sçavoir pour servir toutes sortes de tables, depuis celles des plus grands Seigneurs jusqu'à celles des bons Bourgeois, avec une instruction pour faire toutes sortes de Patisseries, confitures séches & liquides, & toutes les diffeérentes

A Paris, Chez Christ. David, Libraire-Imprimeur, rus S. Jacq. près la Fontaine S. Séverin, au Nom de Jesus. Avec Privilège du Roi. 1739. 8vo, half calf. Title, Preface, Table, etc., 6 leaves + pp. 473 + Table des Matières, 4 leaves. On inside of cover, book plate of "Walter Charles James."

Dictionaire des Alimens.

Dictionaire des Alimens, Vins et Liqueurs, Leur Qualités, Leurs Effets, relativement aux différens ages, & aux différens tempéramens; Avec La Manière de les Apprêter, Ancienne et Moderne, Suivant la méthode des plus habiles Chefs-d'Office & Chefs de Cuisine, de la Cour, & de la Ville. Ouvrage très-utile dans toutes les familles. Par M. C. D. Chef de Cuisine de M. le Prince de * * *

A Paris. Chez Gissey, rue de la Vieille Bouclerie. Bordelet, rue Saint Jacques. Avec Approbation & Privilège du Roi. On page xxviii, De l'Imprimerie de Gissey. 1750. 3 vols. 12mo, old calf. In Vol. I, Titles, Preface, etc., pp. xxviii + pp. xxviii + pp. 538 + Approbation, etc., 1 leaf. On inserted leaf, the inscription: "To Mrs. J. Pennell this book is presented with the kindest regards of her uncle: Charles G. Leland. Florence, Sept. 27, 1901."

Ecole De Salerne, L'.

L'Art de Conserver Sa Santé, Composé par L'Ecole de Salerne. Traduction nouvelle en Vers François, Par Mr. B. L. M.

A Paris, Par la Compagnie des Libraires. 1753. 8vo, in boards. Pp. 104 + Table, 2 leaves. My copy bound up with "La Cochliopérie," 1808.

Marin.

Les Dons de Comus, ou L'Art de la Cuisine, Réduit en Pratique, Nouvelle Edition, Revue, corrigée & augmentée par l'Auteur.

A Paris, Chez Pissot, Libraire, Quai de Conti, à la Croix d'Or, à la descente du Pont Neuf, au coin de la Rue de Nevers. Avec Approbation et Privilège du Roi. 1758. 3 vols. 12mo, old calf. Frontispiece engraving on copper by Le Bas. In Vol. I: Avis and Preface, pp. xlviii + pp. 490.

Chambray, G. De.

L'Art de Cultiver les Pommiers, les Poiriers, et de Faire des Cidres Selon l'usage de la Normandie. Par M. le Marquis de Chambray.

A Paris, Chez Ganeau, rue Saint-Séverin, près l'Eglise, aux armes de Dombes & à Saint-Louis. Avec Permission. 1765.

TITLE : L'ART DE CONSERVER SA SANTÉ, 1753.

Cuisiniere Bourgeoise, La.

La Cuisiniere Bourgeoise, Suivie de L'Office. A l'usage de tous ceux qui se mêlent de dépenses de Maisons. Contenant la maniere de disséquer, connoître & servir toutes sortes de Viandes, Nouvelle Edition. Augmentée de plusieurs ragoût des plus nouveaux, & de différentes Recettes pour les Liqueurs.

A Paris, Chez P. Guillaume Cavelier, Libraire, Rue S. Jacques, au Lys d'Or. 1777. 8vo, old calf. Title and Preface, 2 leaves + pp. 418.

Cuisiniere Bourgeoise, La

La Cuisinière Bourgeoise, Suivie de l'Office, a L'Usage de Tous Ceux Qui Se Mélent de Dépenses de Maisons. Contenant la manière de connoître, disséquer & servir toutes sortes de viandes; des avis intéressans sur leur

A Bruxelles, Chez François Foppens, Imprimeur Libraire. 1779. 2 vols. 8vo, paper covers. In Vol. I: Avertissement, Explication, etc. Pp. xxiv + pp. 320.

Cuisiniere Bourgeoise, La.

La Cuisinière Bourgeoise, [etc. Title the same as in 1777 edition.]

A Paris, Chez les Libraires Associés. 1786. 8vo, old calf. Title and Preface, 3 leaves + pp. 372.

Cuisiniere Bourgeoise, La.

La Cuisinière Bourgeoise, [etc. Title same as in 1777 edition.]

A Paris, Chez André, Imprimeur-Libraire, rue de la Harpe, No. 477. An VI de la Republique. 8vo, paper boards, with title on back in illuminated lettering by Mr. Leland. Pp. 408. On leaf inserted, the inscription: "To Mrs. Joseph Pennell,

TITLE : LA CUISINIÈRE BOURGEOISE, 1777.

Cuisiniere Bourgeoise, La.

La Cuisinière Bourgeoise [etc. — same title as 1777 edition, to] Dernière Edition, Augmentée de Plusieurs ragoûts des plus nouveaux, et de différentes recettes pour les liqueurs, avec une explication par ordre alphabétique, des termes en usage pour la Cuisine et l'Office.

A Lyon, Chez Amable Leroy, Imprimeur-Libraire. 1802. 8vo, in paper boards. Title and Preface, pp. vi + pp. 384. On inserted leaf, the inscription: "To Mrs. Joseph Pennell, with kind regards of Charles G. Leland, Florence, May 28, 1897."

Menon.

La Science du Maître D'Hôtel, Confiseur, a L'Usage des Officiers, Avec des Observations Sur la connoissance & les propriétés des Fruits. Enrichie de Desseins en Décorations & Parterres pour les Desserts. Suite du Maître d'Hôtel Cuisinier. Nouvelle Edition, revue et corrigée.

A Paris. Par la Comagnie des Libraires associés. Avec Approbation et Privilege du Roi. At the end, De l'Imprimerie

Menon.

La Science du Maître-D'Hôtel Cuisinier, Avec Des Observations sure la Connoissance & les propriétés des Alimens. Nouvelle Edition, revue et corrigée.

A Paris, Ches Les Libraires Associés. Avec Approbation et Privilege du Roi. 1789. 8vo, in old calf. Title and Dissertation Préliminaire, pp. xxiv + pp. 554.

Le Cointe, Jourdan.

La Cuisine de Santé, Ou Moyens faciles & économiques de préparer toutes nos Productions Alimentaires de la manière la plus délicate & la plus salutaire, d'après les nouvelles découvertes de la Cuisine Françoise & Italienne. Par M. Jourdain le Cointe, Docteur en Médecine; revu par un Practicien de Montpellier. Ouvrage destiné à l'instruction des Gens de l'Art, à l'amusement des Amateurs & particulièrement à la conservation de la Santé.

A Paris, Ches Briand, Libraire, Hotel de Villiers, rue Pavée Saint-André-des-Arts. 1789. 3 vols. 8vo, half calf. In Vol I: pp. 465. 1 plate.

Reyniere, Grimod de la.

Almanach des Gourmands, on Calendrier Nutritif Servant de Guide dans les Moyens de Faire Excellente Chère; Suivi de l'Itinéraire d'un Gourmand dans divers quartiers de paris, et de quelques Variétes morales, nutritives, Anecdotes gourmandes, etc. Par un Vieux Amateur. Seconde Edition revue et corrigée.

A Paris. Chez Maradan, rue Pavée-Saint-André-des-Arts. No. 16. An XI.—1803. 8 Vols.— from 1803 to 1812; in 1809, no number was published. 8vo, paper covers. In Vol. I: Title, Avis, etc., pp. viii + pp. 247. On inserted leaf, the inscription in verse:—

Autolyc Soul! above brunette or blondness,
Fondest of food, and fittest food for fondness,
Who dost with thy divinely greedy art
Win that within that's underneath the heart,
Accept—it leaves thee still my liver's creditor—
This grace of greed from thy enpeptic Editor.
H.C.

Reyniere, Grimod de la.

Manuel des Amphitryons; contenant un Traité de la Dissection des viandes à table, la Nomenclature des Menus les plus nouveaux pour chaque saison, et des Elémens de Politesse gourmande. Ouvrage indispensable à tous ceux qui sont jaloux de faire bonne chère,

A Paris, Chez Capelle et Renand, Libraires-Commissionnaires, rue J. J. Rousseau. 1808. 8vo, old calf. Frontispiece, etching. Pp. 384. 16 etched plates. Inside the cover, the book plate of "Albert F. Sieveking."

ENGLISH

Markham, Gervase.

The English Housewife. Containing The inward and outward Vertues which ought to be in a compleate Woman. As her skill in Physicke, Surgery, Cookery, Extraction of Oyles, Banqueting stuffe, Ordering of great Feasts, Preserving of all sorts of Wines, Conceited Secrets, Distillations, Perfumes, ordering of Wooll, Hempe, Flax, making Cloth, and Dying, the knowledge of Dayries, office of Malting, of Oates, their excellent uses in a Family, of Brewing, Baking, and all other things belonging to an Houshold. A Worke generally approved, and now the fourth time much augmented, purged and made most profitable and necessary for all men, and the generall good of this Kinddome. By G. M.

TITLE : GERVASE MARKHAM'S ENGLISH HOUSEWIFE, 1631.

London. Printed by Nicholas Okes for John Harison, and are to be sold at his shop at the signe of the golden Unicorne in Pater-noster-row. 1631. 4to, half calf. Title, Dedication, Table, 5 leaves + pp. 252.

Delightes for Ladies.

Delightes for Ladies, to Adorne their Persons, Tables, Closets and Distillatories: With Beauties, Banquets, Perfumes and Waters. Read, practice, and censure.

London, Printed by R. Y. and are to bee sold by James Boler. 1632. 12mo, old vellum. 96 leaves. Each page with a decorative border cut on wood. Title page of my copy much defaced. Bound in same volume,

Closet for Ladies.

A Closet for Ladies and Gentlewomen. Or, the Art of preserving, Conserving, and Candying. With the manner how to make divers kindes of Sirups, and all kinde of banqueting stuffes. Also divers soveraigne Medicines and Salves for Sundry Diseases.

London, Printed by John Haviland. 1632. 96 leaves. The pages also with decorative border.

Muffett, Thomas.

Healths Improvement: or, Rules Comprizing and Discovering

London, Printed by Tho: Newcomb for Samuel Thomson, at the sign of the white Horse in Pauls Churchyard. 1655. 4to, modern calf. Title, Epistle, Table, pp. 8 + pp. 296.

Moffett, Thomas.

Health's Improvement. . . . To which is now prefix'd, A short View of the Author's Life and Writings by Mr Oldys, and An Introduction by R. James, M. D.

London ; Printed for T. Osborne in Gray's-Inn, 1746. 8vo, old calf. Title, Epistle to the Reader, etc., pp. xxxii + pp. 398.

Compleat Cook, The.

The Compleat Cook. Expertly prescribing the most ready wayes, Whether, Italian, Spanish, or French. For dressing of Flesh, and Fish, Ordering of Sauces, or making of Pastry.

London : Printed for Nath. Brook at the Angel in Corn-hill, 1655. 12mo, old calf. Pp. 123 + Table, 3 leaves.

Closet, The Queen's.

The Queens Closet Opened. Incomparable Secrets in Physick, Chirurgery, Preserving, Candying, and Cookery; As they were presented to the Queen By the most Experienced Persons of our times, many whereof were honoured with her own practice, when she pleased to descend to these more private Recreations. Never before published. Transcribed from the true Copies of her Majesties own Receipt-Books, by W. M. one of her late servants.

Printed for Nathaniel Brook, at the Angel in Cornhill, 1655. 12mo, half calf. Title and Dedication, 6 leaves + pp. 192. Bound up with it,

Delight, A Queen's.

A Queen's Delight, or The Art of Preserving, Conserving, and Candying; as also A right knowledge of making Perfumes, and Distilling the most Excellent Waters. Never before published.

Printed for Nathaniel Brook, at the Angel in Cornhill. 1655. Continues pagination of Queen' Closet to 296. Table for both books, and Publisher's Advertisement, 12 leaves.

Delight, A Queen's.

[The same, in separate volume. Later edition.]

London, Printed for Obadiah Blagrave at the Sign of the black Bear in St. Pauls Churchyard. 1683. 12mo, modern calf. Pp. 106 + Table, 2 leaves.

Closet, the Queen's.

The Queen's Closet Opened. . . . Corrected and Reviewed with many New and large Additions: together with three exact Tables.

London. Printed by J. W. for Nath. Brooke, at the Angel in Gresham-College, near the Exchange in Bishops-Gate-Street. 1668. 12mo, old calf. Frontispiece, engraving on copper, portrait of Queen Henrietta Maria. Portrait, title, To the Reader, etc., 6 leaves + pp. 191.

Ruthven, Patrick, Lord.

The Ladies Cabinet Enlarged and Opened: Containing Many Rare Secrets and Rich Ornaments, of several kindes, and different uses. Comprized Under three general Heads. Viz. of, 1. Preserving, Conserving, Candying, etc. 2. Physick and Chirurgery. 3. Cookery and Housewifery. Whereunto is added, Sundry Experiments and choice Extractions of Waters, Oyles, etc.

FRONTISPIECE : THE QUEEN'S CLOSET, 1668.

London, Printed by T. M. for G. Bedell and T. Collins at the middle-Temple Gate, Fleet-street. 1655. 12mo, old calf. Title, Dedication, etc., 4 leaves + pp. 252 + Table and Publisher's Advertisement, 8 leaves.

May, Robert.

The Accomplisht Cook, or the Art and Mystery of Cookery. Wherein the whole Art is revealed in a more easie and perfect Method, than hath been publisht in any Language. Expert and ready wayes for the Dressing of all sorts of Flesh, Fowl, and Fish; the Raising of Pastes; the best Directions for all manner of Kickshaws, and the most Poinant Sauces; with the Tearms of Carving and Sewing. An exact Account of all Dishes for the Season; with other A la mode Curiosities. Together with the lively Illustrations of such necessary Figures as are referred to Practice. Approved by the Fifty Years Experience and Industry of Robert May, in his Attendance on several Persons of Honour.

London. Printed by R. W. for Nath Brooke, at the Sign of the Angel in Cornhill. 1660. 8vo, old calf. Frontispiece, portrait of Robert may. Frontispiece, Title, Dedication, etc., 16 leaves + pp. 447 + Table and Publisher's Advertisement, 7 leaves. Numerous illustrations, woodcuts, printed with the text. (In my copy, pp. 291-292 missing.)

May, Robert.

The Accomplisht Cook etc. — The Fourth Edition.

London, Printed for Obadiah Blagrave at the Bear in St. Pauls Church-Yard, near the Little North-Door. 1678. 8vo, old calf. Frontispiece, same portrait. Frontispiece, Title, etc., 16 leaves + pp. 461 + Table and Publisher's Advertisement, 5 leaves. Illustrations in text and four folded plates.

Digby, Sir Kenelm.

The Closet of the Eminently Learned Sir Kenelme Digby Kt. Opened: Whereby is Discovered Several Ways for making of Metheglin, Sider, Cherry-Wine, etc. Together with Excellent Directions for Cookery: as also for Preserving, Conserving, Candying, etc. Published by his Son's Consent.

London, Printed by E. C. & A. C. for H. Brome, of the West-End of St. Paul's. 1671. 8vo, in old calf. Title and Preface, 2 leaves + pp. 251 + Table, 4 leaves. My copy follows, in

PORTRAIT OF SIR KENELM DIGBY.

Rabisha, Will.

The whole Body of Cookery Dissected, Taught, and fully manifested, Methodically, Artificially, and according to the best Tradition of the English, French, Italian, Dutch, etc. Or, A Sympathy of all varieties in Natural Compunds in that Mysterie. Wherein is contained certain Bills of Fare for the Seasons of the year, for Feasts and Common Diets. Wherunto is annexed a Second Part of Rare Receipts of Cookery: with certain useful Traditions. With a book of Preserving, Conserving and Candying, after the most Exquisite and Newest manner: Delectable for Ladies and Gentlewomen.

London. Printed for E. Calvert, at the sign of the black Spread Eagle, at the West end of St. Pauls. 1673. 8vo, old calf. Title, Dedication, etc., 10 leaves + the Table, pp. 19, the first 12 not numbered, + pp. 289, + Note to the Reader, etc., 3 leaves.

Woolley, Hannah.

The Queen-Like Closet or Rich Cabinet.

Title-page and part of Dedication of my copy missing. 8vo, old calf. Pp. 344 + Table, Postscript, etc., 15 leaves. Followed by Supplement, or A Little of Every Thing Presented To all Ingenious Ladies and Gentlewomen, with separate title-page. London, Printed by T. R. for Richard Lownds, and are to be Sold at the Sign of the White Lion in Duck-Lane. 1674. Title, Dedication, etc., 6 leaves + pp. 194, but pages are missing at the end. This is one of the rarest of the Seventeenth Century books.

Hartman, George.

Hartman's Curiosities of Art and Nature: or The True Preserver and Restorer of Health . . . the Second Edition. With a second part, entitled, Excellent Directions for Cookery; Together with the Description of an Useful Engin serving for the same; and likewise for Distilling the Choicest and Best Cordial Waters. As also Select Receipts for Preserving, Conserving, and Candying, etc. With a Collection of the Choicest Receipts for making of Metheglin, Sider, Cherry-Wine, etc.

First part: Printed for A. C. at the Ring in Little Britain, Where is sold A thousand Notable Things to prevent the Plague, and all Distempers; the Way to get Wealth, and the Way to save Wealth. Second part: London, Printed by T. B. for G. Hartman Chymist. 1682. 8vo, old calf. Title, Dedication, etc., 8 leaves + pp. 352 + Second Part, pp. 32.

Rose, Giles.

A perfect School of Instructions for the Officers of the Mouth: Shewing the Whole Art of A Master of the Household, A Master Carver, A Master Butler, A Master Confectioner, A Master Cook, A Master Pastryman. Being a Work of singular Use for Ladies and Gentlewomen, and all Persons whatsoever that are desirous to be acquainted with the most excellent Arts of Carving, Cookery, Pastry, Preserving, and Laying a Cloth for Grand Entertainments. The like never before extant in any Language. Adorned with Pictures curiously Ingraven, displaying the whole Arts. By Giles Rose one of the Master Cooks in His Majesties Kitchen.

London, Printed for R. Bentley and M. Magnes, III Russel-street in Covent-Garden. 1682. 8vo, old calf. Title, Dedication, etc., 12 leaves + pp. 563. Numerous illustrations, woodcuts, printed with the text. The book, "The like never before extant in any Language," is a translation of "L'Ecole Parfaite des Officiers de Bouche," from which most of the illustrations are taken.

Whole Duty of a Woman, The.

The Whole Duty of a Woman: Or a Guide to the Female Sex from the Age of Sixteen to Sixty, etc. ...

London. Printed for J. Guillim, against the Great James Towers in Bishopsgate-street. 1701. 12mo, old calf. Title and Preface, 3 leaves + pp. 184.

Whole Duty of a Woman, The.

The Whole Duty of a Woman ... [Same as above.] The Eighth Edition.

London: Printed for A. Bettesworth and C. Hitch, at the Red Lyon in Pater-Noster Row; R. Ware, at the Sun and Bible, in Amen Corner; and James Hodges, at the Looking-Glass on London Bridge. 1735. 12mo, modern calf. Frontispiece, woodcut of woman at prayers and in kitchen. Title and Preface, 3 leaves + pp. 167.

King, William.

The Art of Cookery, In Imitation of Horace's Art of Poetry. With some Letters to Dr. Lister, and others: Occasion'd principally by the Title of a Book publish'd by the Doctor, being the Works of Apicius Coelius, Concerning the Soups and Sauces of the Antients.

London: Printed for Bernard Lintott at the Cross-Keys between the two Temple Gates in Fleet-street. No date, but about 1708. 8vo, old calf. Titles, and Publisher to the Reader, 4 leaves + pp. 160.

Howard, Henry.

England's Newest way in all sorts of Cookery, Pastry, And All Pickles that are fit to be Used. Adorn'd with Copper Plates, setting forth the Manner of placing Dishes upon Tables; and the Newest Fashions of Mince-Pies. By Henry Howard, Free Cook of London, and late Cook to his Grace the Duke of Ormond, and since to the Earl of Salisbury, and Earl of Winchelsea. Likewise the best Receipts for making Cakes, Mackroons, Biskets, Ginger-bread, French-bread etc. The Second Edition with Additions and Amendments.

London, Printed for and Sold by Chr. Coningsby, at the Ink-bottle against Clifford's-Inn Back-Gate, in Fetter-Lane, Fleet-street. 1708. 8vo, old calf. Title, To the Reader, and Table, 8 leaves + pp. 156 + Publisher's Advertisement, 2 leaves.

Lamb, Patrick.

Royal Cookery : Or The Complete Court-Cook.

Title page missing, but Advertisement at end explains it was printed for and sold by Maurice Atkins, at the Golden-Ball in S. Paul's Church-Yard. 1710. 8vo, old calf. Beginning imperfect. Pp. 127 + Bills of Fare, Publisher's Advertisement, 8 leaves. 22 plates, engraved on copper.

Lemery, Louis.

New Curiosities in Art and Nature: or a Collection of the most Valuable Secrets in all Arts and Sciences; As appears by the Contents. Composed and Experimented by the Sieur Lemery, Apothecary to the French King. Translated into English from the Seventh Edition. Printed this last Year in French, in which is near one half more than any former Edition. Illustrated with Cuts. To which is added a Supplement by the Translator.

London: Printed for John King, at the Bible and Crown in Little-Britain; and sold by J. Morphew, near Stationers-Hall 1711. 8vo, old calf. Title, Preface, etc., 8 leaves + pp. 354 + Index, 7 leaves. 8 engravings on copper. On inside of cover, the book-plate of "William Bowen." On fly-leaf, the inscription, "To Mrs Pennell from A. S. Hartrick.

Lemery, Louis.

A Treatise of All Sorts of Foods. (See French Title.) Translated by D. Hay, M. D. To which is added, An Introduction treating of Foods in general: A Table of Chapters, and an Alphabetical Index. A Work of universal Use to all who are inclin'd to know the good or bad Qualities of what they eat or drink.

London: Printed for T. Osborne, in Gray's-Inn. 1745. 8vo, old calf. Frontispiece, engraving on copper. Frontispiece, Title, Preface, etc., pp. xii + pp. 372 + index, 12 leaves.

Hall, T.

The Queen's Royal Cookery: Or, Expert and ready Way for the Dressing of all Sorts of Flesh, Fowl, Fish: Either Bak'd, Boil'd, Roasted, Stew'd, Fry'd, Broil'd, Hash'd, Frigasied, Carbonaded, Forc'd, Collar'd, Sous'd, Dry'd, etc. After the Best and Newest Way. With their several Sauses and Salads, etc. by T. Hall, Free Cook of London. The Second Edition.

London: Printed for G. Bates, at the Sun and Bible in Gilt-spur-Street in Pye-Corner: And A. Bettesworth, at the Red Lion on London Bridge. 1713. 8vo, old calf. Frontispiece, woodcut, a portrait of Queen Anne above drawings of kitchen, bakery, and distillery. Pp. 180.

Eale, Mary.

Mrs Mary Eale's Receipts. Confectioner to her late Majesty Queen Anne.

London: Printed by H. Meere in Black-Fryers, and to be had at Mr Cooper's at the Three Pidgeons the lower end of Bedford-street, near the New Exchange in the Strand. 1718. 8vo, old calf. Title and Contents, 4 leaves + pp. 100.

Collection, A.

A Collection of above Three Hundred Receipts in Cookery, Physick and Surgery; For the Use of all Good Wives, Tender Mothers, and Careful Nurses. By several Hands. The Second Edition.

London, Printed for mary Kettilby, and Sold by Richard Wilkin, at the King's Head in St. Paul's Church-Yard. 1719. 8vo, old calf. Titles and Preface, 7 leaves + pp. 86 + Index imperfect. On fly-leaf, the inscription, "Hommage to Autolycus fr Austin Dobson. 27. VII. '95"

E—S— [in later edition, E. Smith].

The Compleat Housewife; Or Accomplished Gentlewoman's Companion: Being a Collection of upwards of Five Hundred of the most approved Receipts in Cookery, Pastry, Confectionary, Preserving, Pickles, Cakes,

London: Printed for J. Pemberton, at the Golden Buck, over-against St. Dunstan's Church in Fleet-street. 1727. 8vo, old calf. Title, Preface, Bill of Fare, Index, 16 leaves + pp. 326 + Publisher's Advertisement, 1 leaf. 6 folded plates, inserted at the end.

Smith, E.

The Complete Housewife. . . . Being A Collection of upwards of Seven Hundred of the most approved Receipts in Cookery, Pastry, Confectionary, Potting, Collaring, Preserving, Pickles, Cakes, Custards, Creams, Preserves, Conserves, Syrups, Jellies, Made Wines, Cordials, Distilling, Brewing. . . . [As in first edition.] With Directions for Marketing. By E. Smith. The Eighteenth Edition with Additions.

London: Printed for J. Buckland, J. and F. Rivington, J. Hinton, Hawes, Clarke, and Collins, W. Johnston, S. Crowder, T. Longman, B. Law, T. Lowndes, S. Bladon, W. Nicoll, and

Nott, John.

The Cooks and Confectioners Dictionary: Or the Accoplish'd Housewives Companion. Containing, 1. the choicest Receipts in all the several Branches of Cookery, etc. etc., etc. The Third Edition with Additions. Revised and Recommended by John Nott, late Cook to the Dukes of Somerset, Ormond and Bolton; Lord Lansdown and Ashburnham.

London: Printed by H. P. for Charles Rivington, at the Bible and Crown, in St. Paul's Church-yard. 1727. 8vo, old calf. Frontispiece, engraving on copper, allegory of plenty, by J. Pine. Pages not numbered. 316 leaves. On inside of title-page, the book-plate of "Charles Earl of Ailesbury."

Carter, Charles.

The Compleat City and Country Cook: or Accomplish'd Housewife. Containing, Several Hundred of the most approv'd Receipts in Cookery, Confectionary, Cordials, Cosmeticks, Jellies, Pastry, Pickles, Preserving, Syrups, English Wines, etc. By Charles Carter,

PLAN OF THE TABLE : COMPLEAT CITY AND COUNTRY COOK, 1732.

London: Printed for A. Bettesworth and C. Hitch; and C. Davis in Pater-noster Row: T. Green at Charing Cross; and S. Austen in St. Paul's Church-yard. 1732. 8vo, old calf. Frontispiece, engraving on copper, plan for an "Instalment Dinner. A Table for the Ladies in a Horse Shoe Form." Title and Preface, pp. viii + pp. 280. 49 plates.

Lady's Companion, The.

The Lady's Companion: Or, an infallible Guide to the Fair Sex. Containing, Rules, Directions, and Observations, for their Conduct and Behaviour through all Ages and Circumstances of Life, as Virgins, Wives, or Widows . . . and above one thousand different Receipts in every Kind of Cookery, etc., etc., etc., The Second Edition.

London: Printed for T. Read, in Dogwell-Court, White Fryers, Fleet-Street. 1740. 8vo, old calf. Pp. 694. 10 Woodcuts printed with Text. 39 Plates.

Arnaud, Jasper.

An Alarm to All Persons Touching their Health and Lives, etc. etc. By Jasper Arnaud, Sometime past first

London: Printed for T. Payne in Round Court in the Strand, opposite York Buildings. 1740. 8vo, half calf. Title, 1 leaf + pp. 24.

Family Magazine, The.

The Family Magazine: In Two Parts. Part I, Containing Useful Directions in All the Branches of House-Keeping and Cookery etc. etc. etc. Now First communicated for the Publick Benefit.

London: Printed for J. Osborn, at the Golden-Ball in Paternoster-Row. 1741. 8vo, old calf. Title and Preface, pp. xiv + sub-title, 1 leaf + 324. 6 woodcuts in text.

Present for a Servant Maid, A.

A Present for a Servant-Maid: Or the Sure Means of gaining Love and Esteem, etc. etc. The Whole calculated for making both the Mistress and Maid happy.

London: Printed and Published by T. Gardner at Cowley's Head, without Temple-Bar; and sold by the Booksellers of Town and Country. 1743. 8vo, unbound. Title, Preface, etc., 2 leaves + pp. 76.

PORTRAIT OF EDWARD KIDDER.

Adam's Luxury and Eve's Cookery.

Adam's Luxury, and Eve's Cookery; or the Kitchen-Garden display'd. etc. etc. etc.

London: Printed for R. Dodsley, in Pall Mall; and Sold by M. Cooper, at the Globe in Pater-noster Row. 1744. 8vo, old calf. Titles and Introduction, pp. xii + pp. 216.

Kidder, Edward.

E. Kidder's Receipts of Pastry and Cookery, For the Use of his Scholars. Who teaches at his School in Queen Street near St. Thomas Apostles. On Mondays, Tuesdays & Wednesdays, In the Afternoon. Also on Thursdays, Fridays & Saturdays, In the Afternoon, at his School next to Furnivals Inn in Holborn, Ladies may be taught at their own Houses

No publisher, printer, or date given. Hazlitt says it is earlier than Mrs Glasse's book, which was published in 1747. Probably about 1740. 8vo, old calf. Frontispiece, on copper, the portrait of Kidder by Rob. Sheppard. The Title, the 42 pages of Text, printed on one side only, and the 8 plates are all engraved in copper.

Glasse, Hannah.

The Art of Cookery, Made Plain and Easy; Which far exceeds any Thing of the Kind ever yet Published.

London: Printed for the Author; and sold at Mrs. Ashburn's, a China-Shop Corner of Fleet-Ditch. 1747. Folio, modern morocco. Title, List of Subscribers, and Table, 8 leaves + pp. 166. Interleaved with modern paper; on the first four leaves, four newspaper clippings pasted in by G. A. Sala. Written on fly-leaf, "This is a copy of the First Edition of the famous Cookery Book written by Mrs. Hannah Glasse (the authorship of which was erroneously ascribed by Dr. Johnson — see Boswell's Life — to Dr. Hill) Mrs Glasse, however, was a real personage ‘Habit Maker to the Royal Family’ and lived in Southampton Row, Bloomsbury — Observe in the list of Subscribers the name of Mr Glasse, attorney at law, and Mrs Glasse, Carey St. These were probably of close kindred to Hannah. Subsequent editions bear on the title page a fac-simile of H. G.'s autograph. There are (July 1876) only Four copies of this First Edition (a ‘pot’ folio) known to be in existence, viz: One in the Library of the British Museum — One in the Bodleian Library, Oxford. One in the possession of the Rev. Richard Hooper of Upton Rectory, Didcot — and One (hic inventus adest) belonging to George Augustus Sala. 46 Mecklenburgh Square. W. C. London." Since the book has been mine, I have seen two additional copies advertised in booksellers' catalogues. I am afraid Sala had not read his "Boswell" very carefully. His reference to Dr. Johnson is not quite accurate.

Glasse, Hannah.

The Art of Cookery, etc. By a Lady.— The Fourt Edition with Additions.

London, Printed for the Author, and sold at the Bluecoat-Boy, near the Royal-Exchange, etc. 1751. 8vo, old calf. Frontispiece, an advertisement for Hannah Glasse, engraved on copper. The only edition with this plate. Her autograph, H. Glasse, on first page. Title, Preface, etc., 11 leaves + pp. 334.

Glasse, Hannah.

The Art of Cookery, etc. By a Lady. The Eighth Edition.

London: Printed for A. Millar, etc. 1763. 8vo, old calf. Her autograph, H. Glasse, on first page. Title, 1 leaf + To the Reader, pp. vi + Contents, 12 leaves + pp. 384 + Index, 12 leaves.

Glasse, Hannah.

The Art of Cookery, etc. By a Lady The Ninth Edition.

London Printed for A. Millar, etc. 1765. Paging same as in Eighth Edition.

Glasse, Hannah.

The Art of Cookery, etc. By H. Glasse

TITLE : FIRST OF EDITION OF MRS. GLASSE'S ART OF COOKERY, 1747.

Edinburgh: Printed for Alexander Donaldson. 1774. 8vo, old calf. Title and To the Reader, pp. vi + Contents, 9 leaves + pp. 440 + Index, 12 leaves.

Glasse, Hannah.

The Art of Cookery, etc.. By Mrs. Glasse. A New Edition.

London: Printed for W. Strahan, etc. 1784. 8vo, old calf. Her autograph, H. Glasse, engraved on first page. Title, 1 leaf + To the Reader, pp. iv + Index and Contents imperfect + pp. 409 + a second Index at end, 13 leaves. 1 folding plate.

Glasse, Hannah.

The Servants' Directory, or House-Keeper's Companion. By H. Glass, Author of the Art of Cookery made plain and easy.

London: Printed for the Author; and sold by W. Johnston in Ludgate-street; at Mrs. Wharton's, the Blue-Coat-Boys near the Royal Exchange, etc. 1760, 8vo, old calf. Title and Preface, pp. viii + List of Subscribers, 2 leaves + pp. 432.

Glasse, Hannah.

The Compleat Confectioner: or the Whole Art of Confectionary Made Plain and Easy, etc., etc. By H. Glasse, Author of the Art of Cookery.

London: Printed: And Sold at Mrs. Ashburner's China Shop, the Corner of Fleet Ditch; at Yewd's Hat Warehouse, near Somerset House; at Kirk' Toyshop in St. Paul's Church-yard; at Deard's Toyshop, facing Arlington-Street, Piccadilly; etc. No date. 8vo, half calf. Her autograph, H. Glasse, engraved as signature to dedication and on first page. Title and Dedication, 2 leaves + pp. 304 + Contents, 7 leaves + Appendix, pp. 48 + Index, 12 leaves. Written on fly-leaf: "To the Editor of the Times. Friday, October 5, 1866. Sir, Your culinary critic is wrong in thinking Mrs. Glasse allied to Mrs. Harris. The fomer lady lived in the flesh in Edinburgh about 1790. She taught cookery to classes of young ladies. My mother was a pupil and fondly showed in her old age to her children a copy of Glasse's Cookery, with the autograph of the authoress, gained as a prize in the School of Cookery. This book did contain ‘Catch your hare.’ I am etc. M. D."

Accomplish'd Housewife, The.

The Accomplish'd Housewife; or the Gentlewoman's Companion, etc., etc.

London: Printed for J. Newbury, at the Bible and Sun near Chapter-House in St. Paul's Church-Yard, and B. Collins, Bookseller, in Salisbury. 1748. 8vo, old calf. Title, Preface, and Dedication, 7 leaves + pp. 431 + Index, 6 leaves.

Harrison, Sarah.

The Housekeeper's Pocket-Book; And Compleat Family Cook, etc., etc. By Mrs. Sarah Harrison, of Devonshire. The Fourth Edition.

London: Printed for R. Ware, at the Bible and Sun on Ludgate-Hill. 1748. 8vo, old calf. Title and Dedication, pp. iv + Preface and Contents, 2 leaves + pp. 268 + Index and Tables, 18 leaves. I have another edition, without name of author or date, but with 1783 printed under the engraved frontispiece.

La Chapelle, Vincent.

The Modern Cook's, and Complete Housewife's Companion, etc., etc. By Mr. Vincent La Chapelle. The Fourth Edition.

London: Printed for R. Manby and H. S. Cox on Ludgate Hill. 1751. 8vo, old calf. Title and Dedication, 2 leaves + Preface and Contents, pp. xl + pp. 432. At end, 6 olding plates.

Cleland, Elizabeth.

A New and Easy Method of Cookery, etc., etc. By Elizabeth Cleland. The Second Edition.

Edinburgh: Printed by C. Wright and Company: And sold at their Printing-house in Craig's Close, and by the Booksellers in

Verral, William.

A Complete System of Cookery, etc., etc. By William Verral, Master of the White-Hart Inn in Lewes, Sussex.

London, Printed for the Author, and sold by him; As also by Edward Verral Bookseller, in Lewes: And by John Rivington in St. Paul's Church-Yard, London. 1759. 8vo, old calf. Title and Contents, 7 leaves + Preface, pp. xxxiii + pp. 240. On inside of cover, book plate of "John Urry." Written on fly-leaf, "Mrs Urry, 1st November 1775."

Price, Elizabeth.

The New Book of Cookery; or Every Woman a perfect Cook, etc., etc. By Mrs Eliz. Price of Berkeley Square. A New Edition.

London: Printed for the Authoress, and sold by Alex Hogg. No date — probably between 1760 and 1770. 8vo, old calf. Title and Preface, 2 leaves + pp. 114 + Index, 1 leaf. Bound up with it, Mrs. Price's "New Universal and Complete Confectioner." Frontispiece, engraving on copper. Title, Preface, Contents, pp. viii + pp. 371 + Alex Hogg's Catalogue, pp. 12.

Town and Country Cook, The.

The Town and Country Cook; or Young Woman's Best Guide, in the Whole Art of Cookery, etc., etc.

London: Printed for W. Lane, Leadenhall Street, and sold by all other Booksellers. No date. Probably between 1760 and 1770. 12mo, in boards. Frontispiece, engraving on copper of a kitchen. Title, 1 leaf + pp. 84.

Gelleroy, William.

The London Cook, or the Whole Art of Cookery made easy and familiar, etc., etc. By William Gelleroy, Late Cook to her Grace the Dutchess of Argyle. And now to the Right Hon. Sir Samuel Fludger, Bart. Lord Mayor of the City of London.

London: Printed for S. Crowder and Co. at the Looking Glass: J. Coote, at the King's Arms, in Pater-noster Row; and J. Fletcher, St. Paul's Church-Yard. 1762. 8vo, old calf. Title and To the Reader, pp. iv + Menus and Contents, 9 leaves + pp. 486 + Publisher's advertisement, 1 leaf. 1 folding plate.

Moxon, Elizabeth.

English Housewifery, Exemplified in Above Four Hundred and Fifty Receipts, Giving Directions in Most Parts of Cookery, etc., etc. By Elizabeth Moxon. The Ninth Edition, Corrected.

Leedes: Printed by Griffith Wright, for George Copperthwaite, Bookseller in Leedes; and sold by Mr. B. Dod, Bookseller in Ave-Mary Lane, etc. 1764. 8vo, vellum. Beginning imperfect + pp. 203 + Supplement, pp. 25 + Sub-title, Bills of Fare, Index, 12 leaves. 8 woodcuts. On inserted leaf, the inscription: "Receipts by Elizabeth Moxon, To Mrs. J. Pennell with kindest regards from Charles G. Leland, Florence. Feb. 17. 1902."

Shackleford, Ann.

The Modern Art of Cookery Improved, etc., etc. By Mrs. Ann Shackleford of Winchester.

London: Printed for J. Newbery, at the Bible and Sun, in St. Paul's Church Yard; and F. Newbery, Pater-noster-Row. 1767. Title, Preface, Preliminary, pp. xxiv + pp. 284 + Index, 7 leaves.

Raffald, Elizabeth.

The Experienced English House-keeper, For the Use and Ease of Ladies, House-keepers, Cooks. etc., etc., etc. By Elizabeth Raffald.

Manchester: Printed by J. Harrop for the Author, and sold by Messrs. Fletcher and Anderson, in St. Paul's Church-Yard, London; and by Eliz. Raffald, Confectioner, near the Exchange, Manchester. 1769. 8vo, old calf. Her autograph, Eliz. Raffald, on first page. Title and Dedication, 2 leaves + To the Reader, pp. 111 + pp. 362 + Index, pp. xi. 2 folding plates.

Raffald, Elizabeth

The Experienced English Housekeeper, etc. The Fourth Edition.

London: Printed for the Author, and sold by R. Baldwin, No. 47, in Pater-noster-Row 1775. 8vo, old calf. Frontispiece, portrait of Mrs. Raffald, engraved on copper. Her autograph, Eliz Raffald, on first page. Title and Dedication, 2 leaves + Preface, pp. 111 + pp. 382 + Index, 7 leaves. 3 folding plates.

Mason, Charlotte.

The Lady's Assistant, etc., etc. Published from the Manuscript Collection of Mrs. Charlotte Mason, A Professed

London: Printed for J. Walter, at Homer's Head, Charing Cross. 1775. 8vo, old calf. Titles and Introduction, pp. vi + Advertisement, 1 leaf + pp. 471 + Index, 10 leaves.

Pegge, Samuel.

The Forme of Cury, A Roll of Ancient English Cookery, Compiled, about A. D. 1390, by the Master-Cooks of King Richard II, Presented afterwards to Queen Elizabeth, by Edward Lord Stafford, And now in the Possession of Gustavus Brander, Esq., etc. Edited by Dr. Pegge.

London: Printed by J. Nichols, Printer to the Society of Antiquaries. 1780. 8vo, old calf. Frontispiece, portrait of Dr. Pegge, engraved in copper. Title and Preliminary, pp. xxxvi + pp. 188. On inside cover, book plate of "John Wingfield Larking."

Honours of the Table, The.

The Honours of the Table, or Rules for Behaviour During Meals, etc., etc. By the Author of Principles of Politeness, etc.

WOOD ENGRAVING BY JOHN BEWICK FROM THE HONOURS OF THE TABLE, 1788.

London: Printed for the Author at the Literary Press, No. 14, Red-Lion-Street, Clerkenwell, and may be had of H. D. Symonds, Paternoster-Row, and all Booksellers in Town and Country. 1788. 12mo, half calf. Pp. 120. With wood-engravings by John Bewick. On inside of cover, card of Capt. R. Williams, Royal Navy. on fly-leaf, book plate of "Walter Besant, M. A."

Honours of the Table, The.

The Honours of the Table, etc. The Second Edition.

London: The same. 1791.

Honours of the Table, The.

The Honours of the Table, etc. An Irish Edition.

Dublin: Printed by W. Sleater, No. 28, Dame-street. 1791. The same. Pp. 126.

Cole, Mary.

The Lady's Complete Guide, or Cookery and Confectionary in all their Branches, etc., etc. By Mrs. Mary Cole, Cook to the Right Hon. the Earl of Drogheda.

London: Printed for G. Kearsley, No. 46 Fleet-Street. 1789. 8vo, old calf. Title, Preface, etc., pp. xx + Contents, xxvii + pp. 564.

Ladies' Library, The.

The Ladies' Library: Or Encyclopedia of Female Knowledge, etc.

London: Printed for J. Ridgway, No. 1 York Street, St. James's Square. 1790. 8vo, old calf. 2 vols. Vol. I: Frontispiece, engraving of "Jno Perkins, Many Years Cook in the Families of Earl Gower and Lord Melbourn." Title and Preface, pp. xv + pp. 407. 3 plates. Vol. II: Frontispiece, a second, quite different portrait of "Mr. Perkins, Cook." Title, 1 leaf + pp. 215.

Ordinances and Regulations.

A Collection of Ordinances and Regulations for the Government of the Royal Household, Made in Divers Reigns. From King Edward III to King William and Queen Mary. Also Receipts in Ancient Cookery.

London: Printed for the Society of Antiquaries by John Nichols: Sold by Messieurs White and Son; Robson; Leigh and Sotheby; Browne; and Egerton's. 1790. 4to, calf. On inside of cover, book-plate of "Sir Charles Cockerell Bart." Title and Preliminary, pp. xxii + pp. 476.

Warner, The Rev. Richard.

Antiquitates Culinariæ or Curious Tracts relating to the Culinary affairs of the Old English. With a preliminary

London: Printed for R. Blamire, Strand. 1791. Folio, calf. The Title-page is engraved on copper. Preliminary Discourse, pp. lx + pp. 137. 2 plates.

Abbot, Robert.

The Housekeeper's Valuable Present: or Lady's Closet Companion, etc., etc. By Robert Abbot, Late Apprentice to Messrs Negri & Gunter, Confectioners, in Berkeley Square.

London. Printed for the Author; And sold by C. Cooke, No. 17, Pater-noster Row; and all other Booksellers in Town and Country. No date. Probably 1790 or 1791. Written on inside of cover, "Anne Jones, Dec. 18, 1791." 12mo, old calf. Title, Preface, Contents, pp. xii + pp. 100.

Collingwood and Woollams.

The Universal Cook, and City and Country Housekeeper, etc., etc. By Francis Collingwood, and John Woollams, Principal Cooks at the Crown and Anchor Tavern in the Strand, Late from the London Tavern.

London: Printed by R. Noble, for J. Scatcherd and J. Whitaker, No. 12, Ave-Maria-Lane. 1792. 8vo, old calf. Frontispiece,

French Family Cook, The.

The French Family Cook: Being a complete System of French Cookery, etc., etc. Translated from the French.

London: Printed for J. Bell, No. 148, Oxford Street, nearly opposite New Bond Street. 1793. 8vo, calf. Title, Bills of Fare, 4 leaves + Contents, pp. xxiv + pp. 342 + Publisher's Advertisement, 1 leaf.

Briggs, Richard.

The English Art of Cookery, According to the Present Practice; Being a Complete Guide to all Housekeepers, etc., etc. By Richard Briggs, May Years Cook at the White-Hart Tavern, Holborn, Temple Coffee-House, and other Taverns in London. Third Edition.

London: Printed for G. G. and J. Robinson, Pater-Noster-Row. 1794. 8vo, old calf. Title and To the Reader, pp. iv + Contents, pp. xx + pp. 564. 12 plates.

Martin, Sarah.

The New Experienced English-Housekeeper, For the

Doncaster: Printed for the Authoress by D. Boys. And Sold by F. & C. Rivington, St. Paul's Church-Yard, London. 1795. 8vo, old calf. Title, Preface, List of Subscribers, 10 leaves + pp. 173 + Index, 9 leaves. On fly-leaf is written, "The original Edition — very scarce H. B.;" and, below, "The above, in pencil, was written by Henry Bower Esq., my uncle: son of Freeman Bower Esq. of Bawtry, to whom the Book is dedicated by the author of it, his own Housekeeper. J. E. Jackson, Leigh, Delamere, Chippenham, Wilts. April 1867;" and, in pencil, on inside cover, "Canon Jackson's copy."

Bradley, Martha.

The British Housewife: or the Cook, Housekeeper's and Gardiner's Companion, etc., etc. By Mrs Martha Bradley, late of Bath: Being the Result of upwards of Thirty Years Experience.

London: Printed for S. Crowder and H. Woodgate, at the Golden Bell in Paternoster Row. No date, probably at the very end of the eighteenth century. 8vo, old calf. Pp. 752.

SPANISH

Altimiras, Juan.

Nuevo Arte de Cocina, Sacado de la Escuela de la Experiencia Economica. Su Autor Juan Altimiras. Dedicale a San Diego de Alcala.

En Madrid: Por Antonio Perez de Soto. Año de 1760. 12mo, old vellum. Title, Dedication, and Preliminary, 15 leaves + pp. 152. 1 illustration, woodcut, showing kitchen utensils.

Montiño, Francisco Martinez.

Arte de Cocina, Pasteleria, Vizcocheria, y Conserveria, Compuesto por Francisco Martinez Montiño, Cocinero Mayor del Rey. Decimaquinta Impresion.

En Madrid: en la Imprenta de Don Joseph Doblado. Año de [date blotted — 1757 or 1771 ?]. 12mo, paper covers. Title, Preface, etc., 4 leaves + pp. 480.

Mata, Juan de la.

Arte de Reposteria, en que se Contiene Todo Genero de Hacer Dulces Secas, y en Liquido, Vizcochos, Turrones, Natas: Bebidas Heladas de Todos Generos, Rosolis, Mitelas, etc. Con una Breve Instruccion para conocer las Frutas, y servirlas Crudas. Y Diez Mesas

TITLE : ARTE DE COCINA, ETC.

En Madrid: en la Oficina de Ramon Ruiz. 1791. 4to, old vellum. Title and Preliminary, 4 leaves + pp. 232.

Leña, Cecilio Garcia de la.

Disertacion en Recomendacion y Defensa del Famoso Vino Malagueño Pero Ximen y Modo de Formarlo. Dedicala A La M. I. Y. Antigua Hermandad de Viñros de Malaga. D. Cecilio Garcia de la Leña, Presbitero y Vecino de Dicha Ciudad.

Malaga: Por Luis de Carreras, Impresor de la Dig. Episc., de la Sta. Iglesia, de esta M. I. C. ye del Rl. Colegio de San Telmo en la Plaza. 1792. 4to, old calf. Title, Frontispiece, Dedication, pp. xiv + pp. 158.

Note. I am more than ever conscious of the difficulties of compiling anything like a complete bibliography of my own books, because of the important additions made to my collection since my MS. went to press. From Spain, my husband has just brought me several old volumes to strengthen my Spanish section, which, I admit, was weak enough. I have now three more editions of the

While I am in the way of boasting, I think I shall be found more than justified if I record the most precious, bibliographically, of all my recent acquisitions — a copy of Platina's De Honesta Voluptate, the earliest of all printed Cookery Books that I, at least, know anything about. Mine is not the first edition, which is reserved only for the Rothschilds among collectors, but it is fairly early — 1503 — in beautiful condition, with the date given at the end, and spaces left for the capitals almost throughout. I count myself fortunate, too, in a delightful little copy of Baldassare Pisanelli's Trattato della Natura de Cibi, et del Bere; Venice, 1601, in old

Then, I am tempted to add an American section, three or four irresistible little American Cookery Books having come into my possession of late: among them an American edition of Mrs. Glasse, which, I believe, was absolutely unknown until a generous sympathizer in Baltimore found it in his own library and sent it to me — an unprecedented act of generosity on the part of an absolute stranger. But to write of all these treasures would be to rewrite my book. By this unworthy reference to them, I hope at least to give a new proof of the fact that a collection of Cookery Books is not made in a day. But if it were, where would be the pleasure?

THREE HUNDRED AND THIRTY COPIES
PRINTED AT
THE RIVERSIDE PRESS
CAMBRIDGE
IN THE MONTH OF SEPTEMBER
MDCCCCIII
OF WHICH THIS IS
No. 320

DEC 4 - 1903

COPY DEL. TO CAT. DIV.
DEC. 4 1903

DEC 10 1903

[Inside back cover]

[Back cover]